/mg/

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youtube.com/watch?v=JAZ9u9oxJTI
houstonmiataclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3643-92-miata-cherry-condit-67k-mi-for-sale/
dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/5657990419.html
louisville.craigslist.org/cto/5620135133.html
autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=55402&endYear=2017&keywordPhrases=miata&sortBy=yearASC&showcaseOwnerId=70339295&startYear=1981&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=50&listingId=433309618&Log=0
amazon.com/dp/B00LXJAWMS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00LXK08PS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=ZADA4SMAKKABX0QR1SNS
youtube.com/watch?v=FT2iwjWbxIk
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

youtube.com/watch?v=JAZ9u9oxJTI

tfw kind of miss having a hectic, floppy NA

tfw no anime face car

S H I T B O X B O Y Z 1 9 9 5

also who /jdm/ here

I'm so incredibly torn between altering the everloving shit out of my NA (fat wing, lowered, jdm garbage) and keeping it 100% stock. I have no idea why I'm on the edge of both.

Gonna be doing some AC work soon, I'll be flushing all the lines and I'm keeping the compressor. With everything flushed, should I need to drain and refill the compressor oil if I already have the lines disconnected? And which port is the high side port?

how shit are auto miata's?

the worst decision anyone can make

Lowering is fine, it's pretty high stock.
Other than that either keep it stock or go retro mod.

If you want to make a racing machine buy NB.

why nigga

Most of the Miats enjoyment comes from blasting through the gears because the transmission shifts so well. The auto is like 10hp slower to or something. If your considering a miat just learn Manwell on it its not that hard and you wont mess it up. If you want an auto because you highway drive often or some other reason i wouldn't consider miata.

That looks so dope, I love gauges added to the dash. I wish I had the money to turbo it or something so I could actually merit buying more gauges.

What are you paying on your Miata's insurance?

$100/mo here.

Hey /mg/ I'm replacing my clutch but need some advice on getting the transmission bolts off. I can't seem to get any torque on the bolts because the breaker bar doesn't have enough room to turn and there is too much play in the extensions and wobble that I need to get to the bolt. PPF and Exhaust are out of the way. What do I need to be doing differently?

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This looks so much better than these fuckretarded sleepymods.

Still, the stock lights are the best.

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High side is the side with the skinnier pipe. And yeah you should put more oil in if any comes out

some suggestions
>use an impact gun
>use a ratchet instead of a breaker bar
>use less extensions
>12 pt sockets
>penetrating oil

What should I do to her?

Thanks. I've tried all of that except for the impact gun, and one of the last bolts near the top is completely rounded off now.

I have no idea where to go from here, I can't get anywhere near the bolt to try to extract it short of pulling it out with the engine. Any more advice? Am I fucked and going to have to take it to a shop?

Get rid of it

New wheels and tires

You'd be better off getting a Super Cub for all the power an autotragic Miata would have.

Leave it how it is, especially don't do , jesus christ that looks terrible.

>no front plate in wisconsin

you are truly living on the edge

If anyone in or near Houston is looking for a clean NA, this showed up on the local club website.

houstonmiataclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3643-92-miata-cherry-condit-67k-mi-for-sale/

> $6k

Is this a bad idea?
dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/5657990419.html

>67k miles

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louisville.craigslist.org/cto/5620135133.html

good buy?

Absolutely.

24-yo, $28/mo.
Get rid of those heavy POS Enkei wheels. I think Advanti Storm S1s are the best looking wheel for the NB, but yeah, get whatever you want as long as it's 13 lbs or less. Also what did you do to her already? Sway bars if you haven't already. Also roll bar (NOT style bar).
2yellow4me, also why is this picture so fucking pixelated holy shit.
Bruh, give up already. Nobody cares about your gender dysphoria. Seems fair enough, go for it.

autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=55402&endYear=2017&keywordPhrases=miata&sortBy=yearASC&showcaseOwnerId=70339295&startYear=1981&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=50&listingId=433309618&Log=0

Looking to get into a Miata as something to really wrench on for the first time. I have my eye on this one, is it a good buy?

Fuck no.

A 1995 in grandpa's-project-car condition.

Cosmetically and mechanically sound.

What kind of miles would you expect for $3300?

what site you got them senpai? so many to choose from but I can't tell which ones are genuine.

What's y'alls favorite exhaust for the Miata? Thinking about the Buddy Club Spec II but kinda worried it'll be too loud.

I mean I wouldn't know what I would expect, but I don't really pay attention to the mileage as long as everything checks out.

You rounded off a transmission bolt? -.- uhh

Yeah. Any suggestions? A mechanic I know said probably the easiest thing to do because of where the bolt is, would be to just pull the engine.

muh shitbox

weld a nut to the top of the bolt and use that to get it off then replace your bolt

I need to touch up the side latches with some paint because they're fading and have some weird shit on them from the previous owner. Looks like a bunch of small white spots.

What kind of finish paint should I be using to look as oem as possible?

>Bruh, give up already. Nobody cares about your gender dysphoria.

yeah, except anyone cares outside of /mg/.

Havent got pulled over for it yet
I got them used from yahoo auctions japan. I ended up selling them for $70 because I pefer the no badge meme

310€ a year
21yo

>24-yo, $28/mo.
what state?

about €63/month for full insurance.

rollbar

What kind of repairs/modifications do you guys have coming up for your miata?

I'm going to be replacing my leaky output shaft seal on my transmission today. 2 quarts of Motorcraft MTF are going in. This shit better be magic like everybody says it is, cost me like $23 a quart.

Timing belt.
I don't want to do it

Oh it's not too bad. I used this thing and it really helped keep the cams angled right

It's pretty easy, leave yourself lots of time for shit to take a while, it's really anoyying when you find yourself stuck and something that should take 20 seconds ends up holding you up for an hour because it's rusted or seized, I started on Friday afternoon and was driving Sunday night, I left the sealant on the valve cover to dry for 12 hours because that where mine was leaking

Also keep your shit organized it's easy to get excited and rip things apart and forget where things go

Are those ebay crystal turn signals? Looks p. nice family. I'm considering some for my white 95 cause the smoked ones contrast too much.

'95 Luxury Pckg. --- 220k miles
-Torsen Diff.
-Restored
-Rebuilt engine
-Light mods

Just did timing belt Saturday. During the process it felt more and more hopeless as things went wrong, then we lost the timing on the engine and I felt like everything was fucked. Finally got it back together and started up, and nothing. I thought I got the timing wrong and was gonna have to redo everything, turns out I just accidentally the AFM and it was a simple fix. Then I realized during a short drive when the car started overheating that while I refilled the overflow, I forgot to fill up the radiator. Then after it cooled back down the water pump pulley came a little loose so I retorqued those bolts. The car is good for now. Quite an adventure. Enjoy the blog post.

amazon.com/dp/B00LXJAWMS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00LXK08PS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=ZADA4SMAKKABX0QR1SNS

what the difference between a 99-01 and an 02+?
sounds like just seats and bumper

VVT.

honestly how much does that matter
i was gunna turbo the thing anyway

It helps quite a bit, but most people who turbo go with the non-VVT engines because they're less complicated

VVT adds low/midrange torque on NA builds, but doesn't add peak power. idk what it does when boost comes into the equation though, probably the same.

Absolute dogshit. Automatics are shit in general, but the one in the Miata is particularly bad.

Only the NA6s have a different tune for the automatics. All 94+ cars are the same for manual vs auto.

VVT will build boost faster. Also, 01+ have sport brakes and have a 6MT option (all 10AEs had 6MTs, no other NB1s were available with it). I'd suggest swapping the front brakes for 1.8L non-sport brakes, since they'll be easier to find and give you better brake balance.

Clutch
Timing Belt and Water Pump
Suspension all around
All kinds of Gaskets and Seals
Painting Covers+Intake Manifold
Possibly painting the rest of the engine
Possibly doing the coolant reroute
Drilling and tapping the oil pan for oil return while the engine is out
EDM headers

I highly recommend the coolant reroute. I'd suggest buying an inline thermostat housing to do it, though. I have my engine out fairly regularly, but for anyone that doesn't, pulling an engine to change a $3 part probably doesn't sound like fun.

Has anyone on here ever had business with a UK company, MX5 City? What's are they like?

Installed mine last weekend.

wew lad

Miata owners, how tall are you? I'm 6'3" and having trouble imagining myself fitting into a Miata with the roof on.

At 5'11" I don't have any issues, but I was watching this today.

youtube.com/watch?v=FT2iwjWbxIk

Do NA OEM lips exist that aren't R Package style?

What is your shift knob of choice? I want to replace my OEM one but I am not sure what to get. I've been looking at Voodoo but idk if I like how the ball looks. Joyfast super short is pretty sweet but god damn that price tag.

Also..

>not putting Miata in the subject

I thought there was no general for like a week, I thought about selling my car.

I am looking for an OEM bumper cover to replace mine that is damaged. Does this look original to you guys? I think mine is black underneath the paint (not sure if it is OEM) and this one looks yellow.

it's in the filename, comes up in search

Yeah I just have a filter and it wasn't popping up there.

'92, allegedly mechanically sound, at 173k miles for $3000. Sound about right?

There's another, a '95 for $3500, 105k miles, but the guy isn't very forthcoming and a little bit of a dick on the phone. Just keeps saying the car's perfect.

Honestly, and I'm speaking from experience here. It will be easier/less work to pull the engine and trans together from the car. You have ample room to work with on the ground. It takes the same amount of time as trying to do it while everything is in the car, but it is way easier.

For reference, I've done 3 clutch/trans jobs with everything in the car, and swapped 8 clutch/trans by pulling everything out.

If that is not an option(due to tools or space) you need half inch breaker bar with as FEW half inch extensions as possible. And most important a 6 point socket. Run through the shifter turret.

Depends on interior/exterior condition on both tbqh.

66 vette ftw

3k sounds a little pricey for the mileage, unless the service records are meticulous and it's clean as shit

Both are in very good condition cosmetically. The '92 has some normal wear on the seats, but nothing unreasonable. The guy (old guy) bought it three months ago, fixed up some rust, did a bit of internal work (including engine), and is reportedly meticulous about cars.

That's what I was thinking. $3300, marked down from $3450, his son thinks we can definitely talk him down to $3000. I'd like to pay around $2700.

Gv lip

This is my shift knob, came with the car, comfortable, similar to the shape of my preludes shifter

GV not OEM though, just reps of the aftermarket.

>it's been 7 weeks and my headers still aren't here

I'm 6'1 and if I were any taller I think I'd have issues. My seat is all the way back and my head touches the top when I have a helmet on

I've got a voodoo knob, I love it. Joyfast shift knobs look nice too but I've never used one

Bump this Q

So my AC doesn't work and I want to recharge it. I know my 93 originally used r12. Is it safe to just put r134a into the old system? It seems really difficult with the low end input(?) almost up against the intake manifold either way. Is there a way to test for leaks before I possibly waste money on r134? What's everything I'd need to recharge the old system with new stuff?

Also where the hell can I find a hardtop? I've been searching everywhere and they all seem to be new, $1200, and need to be shipped for a lot of money. Fuck. I can't have a soft top in the winter here, it'll get destroyed.

Just Google "r134a retrofit"

I bought my hardtop from a miata club on facebook, $900

craigslist or facebook, check the big cities near you. I just picked an OEM one up for $750 in really good shape, w/ headliner and defrost.

Is that the magnum? How do you feel about the size?

(not gay)

This is now a fiat thread

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>infotaimnet screen
this kills me, otherwise it looks really nice

all the same shit.. i m going to test drive both to see which engine i like better. Sort of leaning towards 124's exterior styling but the new miata is really nice as well.