Brake fluid change

I'm about to sell my 2 year old car and just noticed that brake fluid service is recommended around this time, so I'm going to get that done before I list it. I bought pic related today at Harbor Freight which connects to a compressor to vacuum the fluid out of the lines. Had anyone used this before and has some feedback?

I've been thinking about returning it and doing the cheap way with pumping the brakes info a plastic bottle with some aquarium line. Or I might just switch out the reservoir fluid and call it good, the fluid currently doesn't look very dark so I'm not sure if it even needs changed.

What does Veeky Forums recommend?

If you're just gonna sell it, don't bother. Seriously. No one is going to bust your balls over the brake fluid.

I would have bought HF's $3 turkey baster to empty the master of old fluid so I can fill it with new and re-bleed the system. You'd be done in an hour.

Yeah but I would like to legitimately say in the ad that it's been changed and been kept up on the service schedule.

Damn didn't know they had one. And that is how I plan to do it, I'll just pick up a baster at Walmart.

Just, no

You don't know what you're doing, you're going to fuck shit up and the poor guy who buys your car is going to have to take it to a lube place and get raped

Just
Leave
It
The
Fuck
Alone

Why even HF when Dollar Tree has basters for $1? Same cheap shit at a better price.

Brake fluid changes don't look hard, I've watched a number of videos on YouTube. I'd check the fluid level constantly to make sure it doesn't run dry. And with the HF tool I shouldn't have an issue with air coming back up the lines.

Ooh nice I do live just down the road from a dollar tree, thanks for the suggestion senpai

Does brake fluid make the rubber baster bulb melt?

You have to rinse it of the contaminating powder anyways. HF rubber can have that contaminating coating. Don't know how sensitive brake lines are to even small particularate damage on the order of talc.

I have one. Works just fine. Only issue is that the part goes on the nipple doesn't get a great seal so you may always see bubbles in the suction line. Ignore the small bubbles and keep going until the large bubbles are no more. This thing works well if youre doing it yourself.

>don't look hard
Yeah try this on rust seized cars.
the first time i did my oil change the oil filter was put on so tight before i had to cut it off

Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to get a tube of some grease/lubricant stuff to put around the brake bleed nipple. So hopefully that will seal it up fairly well.

Did you use penetrating oil to loosen the filter? The car I'm selling is a 2015 model so I shouldn'tp have that problem.

But I'm going to do all fluid changes on my new car soon. It's a 2008 model and doesn't have much rust but I'm going to keep some penetrating oil handy just in case.

>Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to get a tube of some grease/lubricant stuff to put around the brake bleed nipple. So hopefully that will seal it up fairly well.

Do not lubricate the bleed screw. You do not need to unscrew it more than one rotation. In fact a quarter rotation is usually enough.
Stick to the correct order, from most far to most near the brake unit (RR, RL, FR, FL).

>penetrating oil
meme

>, I'm going to get a tube of some grease/lubricant stuff to put around the brake bleed nipple. So hopefully that will seal it up fairly well.

Please don't work on your own brakes, if only for the safety of others on the road.

>don't look hard
Unless you have the brake computer tool your going to be doing an 80% job.

Jesus christ you tards I said I'm going to put it on the nipple, to seal any air gaps to get a better vacuum on the brake line. I'm not going to lubricate the fucking nut or pull out the nipple and lubricate the threads.

>bleed brake lines until new clear fluid is flowing out
>hurr durr only 80%

I don't get it, is this board full of retards? or are you all mechanics who troll repair threads to discourage people from doing their own work?

bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way won't clear out the old/contaminated fluid in the hydraulic unit accumulators. So after a few days or an ABS activation all that fresh new brake fluid is getting contaminated by the old stuff by the high pressure accumulators.

Eh like I said it's only 2 years old and the current fluid doesn't look bad anyway. I might just change the fluid in the reservoir and call it good.

>2 years
Lube tech here, that's literally all you need right now, you can do it the right way later.

More like the normie who buys it from me will ignore recommended maintenance and the brake lines will rust out before it hits 100k. I'm fine with that though.

I also plan on changing the fluid in the truck I'm buying, it's 8 years old with 180k miles. I'll have to make sure I completely flush the system, hopefully it's something I can still do myself.

Got a lift or a Rent-A-Bay nearby? Then yes.

Do those have the dealer computers that activate the abs do it can be flushed? Otherwise I don't see the point when I've got a floor jack and jackstands (other than it obviously being less cramped to work on).