Thinking about getting a 1989-1995 mustang as a entry performance car, Redpill me on them Veeky Forums...

Who owns a stock fox?!?!
That's like a friggin unicorn.

and who owns a stock f-car. That argument goes both ways user. You CAN make a Mustang handle decently. But an F-car when modified similarly will still outhandle it constantly.

It wasn't until 2015 that the Mustang was capable of handling similarly to the Camaro... then the 2016 Camaro came out and raised the bar again.

90 got a driver side airbag.
Lost adjustable column and small instrument panel with warning lights and shit.
Mid year '89 and all '90s got a "25 years" emblem on dash. That was the highlight of 25 year commerative issue.
All came with factory headers (they sucked but were headers).

Lol, thats why the 2015 season camaro/mustang american iron series winner is a mustang, right?

BTW, he was driving an sn95.
Points are split between both brands.
You're a delusional fanboi who's oblivious about what's going on in the real world.

put the same driver in an F-car.
>BTW, he was driving an sn95.
still a fox

nasaponycars.com
Winners were:
1 gm, 3 fords in the different classes for 2015 (all classes include gm and ford)

Err, don't the 87-88 LX come with forged pistons? Might be different years.

>tfw 99 pontiac trans am on 17x9 wheels
>handles pretty fucking good

can't turn is a meme

Just like the new v6 mustangs are rated by general motorweek and general motortrend to pull .86gs, when in reality they can do 1 lateral G, even without a tire package from the factory.

I've raced both, the last of the F bodies and 99-04 mustangs. Not sure how the 94-98 handled, I know they're on the same chassis with different suspension geometry though.

Anyways, the fbody sat low, with the LS1 way back under the hood, but would still slip and slide with good 9 inch wide tires. I feel like the new edge GT I'm comparing it to grips a lot harder, even on 8 inch wide 17s.

Also funny how you ended it at 02. Oh...that's when your car got terminated, and replaced years later by pigfat cars.

I love both the camaros/trans am looks, but there's no comparing its handling to a terminator, mine has stock bilstein shocks and stock 600 pound springs, and is incomparably stiffer around curves.

Call BS if you like, but I'm not even hounding the F body. They are beautiful cars, especially the trans ams, that are easy to get decent street power out of. But 100% stock, they are a bit overrated. Literally had a 6 speed 2000 race my untuned PI 2v and it couldn't pull a bit. That one had the LS1 and WS6 pack/ram air. I've also raced the pre-ls ones, and they are much slower.

Eventually the beauty of those cars, and the c5s, will cause the value to go up like the late 60s cars. Even though it could be 20-30 years from now.

>9 inch wide tires

i'm on 9" wide wheels and my fbody is planted.

on my stock 16x8 wheels the car is like skating on ice (rolling burnouts kek)

>untuned PI 2v

kill yourself. my AUTO 3.23 rear LS1 Trans Am fucking walks 4.6 cars. racing 2v mustangs is like racing stock civics. it literally is not a race

my car was faster than a 3 valve 4.6 and right behind a new coyote

>LS1
>can't pull away from a 2 valve 4.6

keep dreaming cobra fag

>I've also raced the pre-ls ones, and they are much slower.

they're not. LT4 cars had 330hp and weighed less than an LS1 car despite having an iron block V8

LT1 cars aren't slow either. our old auto LT1 firebird formula with just gears and exhaust was right there with a 3 valve 4.6l mustang

we raced like 5 times and the formula won twice. all the way to 155 mph

94-98 best body.

I do.

They come with some weird ass cast-forged pistons I do believe.

truly the strangest looking mustang
also that front overhang is so disgusting

You'll need subframe connectors and you owe it to yourself to get rear end gears and an h-pipe exhaust too. I assume you meant 79-93? 89 is the last year of a no airbag steering wheel that tilts, which is GOAT for tall guys and 94-95 keep the 5.0 but are a heavily reworked chassis and body.

Mine has 4 eyes, 4 speeds, a carb and a Mercury badge. The seat design could be a lot better. There are a lot of rattles and some piece of trim is always coming loose. There is nothing luxurious or refined about it it is unapologetically about the power which is why you buy one.

They handle fine. The suspension in the front is actually quite sporty even stock they're just front heavy and have some... interesting qualities about how they put down their power in the rear end. If you're not an idiot and you crawl before you walk when it comes to what point in a turn you put your foot down you won't die. Probably. Assuming it doesn't just tear itself in half on you because you didn't check underneath.

All this is correct. I actually thought f-bodies were cooler when I was a kid but foxes are much more practical as a hobby car.

This guy knows

>They hit 149 mph in 5th. Ford said it will do 151 in fourth
Jesus how terrifying. My speedometer is way inaccurate but if I even get around 100 it feels like The Rapture

kek my suspension is pretty stock. Thinking about a panhard bar.

The rest of this thread seems like bench racer bullshit. I just wanted a cheap "new classic" car that would both appreciate in value and easily stomp both of the types of boyracers in my city (import tuners and full size trucks) which it does. So far I haven't encountered anything else on the streets from the 80s period and if I did whether it was another fox or a GM I'd probably try to get friendly with him anyway especially if he was running a carb because mine chokes in 2nd and I'd really like to figure out why.

>if I even get around 100 it feels like The Rapture

>tfw 135 mph feels like 55 in my fbody

bullshit

>never driven a F-body
stay blind sheep.

I'll need a cItalian on a ls1 running a 12.50 in im the 1/4 without some work done user. Stock s 197 coyotes run that all day. And with bolt ons they can get down to a 12 flat

...

Lol 135 feels like 135 in a fbody. The only way that meme works is you use a caddy with stock suspension

A 12.96 isn't a 12.50. And I know for a fact having owned a catfish z they do not run lower than a 13.20 stock and that's with a 6 speed. And a 5th Gen ss runs a 13 flat. I owned one of those to.

there is literately nothing like an ls series engine that is easily accessible to the public

Stock...
>stormin Norman hood.
>smoked headlight covers (that gts emblem wipes off with rubbing alcohol dude)
>clear corners.
>aftermarket running lights under bumper, probably in with aftermarket switch.
,>billet antennae
>chrome aftermarket rims. Probably 17" "pony style"

Did I miss anything?

I'll pray for you.
Those Capri body parts are somewhere between non existent and... non existent.
Might want to make some Aussie friends.

As for the stumble in 2nd- I'd guess timing, vacc or mechanical advance.
Other option would be carb- what model/size is on it?

Own one myself. Overall a good car and still going after 171k.

>mine chokes in 2nd and I'd really like to figure out why.
Friends car had a problem a bunch of years ago where it would pull hard in First and when he'd grab Second it would fall on its face briefly and then clear up and pull hard again. Turned out that fuel was sloshing out of the front bowl vent and flooding it out. Initially we solved that with a bit of hose that went between the front and rear bowl vents with a notch cut into it at the top and then permanently later with some of the plastic bowl vent extensions that go inside the float bowl.

>Might want to make some Aussie friends
What would that do for him?

I'm almost positive it's the carb. It sort of happened when the guy I bought it from was driving me around in it for my initial "if it's going to blow up it's on you" test and he said "the flaps didn't open" but I'm more inclined to think it's fuel slosh because sometimes it does it in first if I cornered from a stop. The carb that's on it now is an Edelbrock but he gave me two more carbs which on one hand is nice but on the other tells me he'd been working on them. Planning to do a rebuild on the Holley as I understand they're much better than Edelbrocks and easier to adjust as well.

Edelbrocks are a bitch to tune(for me anyways), damn metering rods.

Whats the list number on the holly?
It will be a number stamped on the backside of the choke housing, something like "list 4777-8021"

The engine is completely stock. You sound quite mad for some reason.

>4 eyes, 4 speeds, a carb
>not 4 barrels
opportunity squandered

This is VERY IMPORTANT on the holly.

The float bowls have a "sealing ridge", damage to those will cause a leak that youll never fix.
DO NOT scrape the gasket off. The float bowls are soft aluminum, a razor blade will easily carve right through that sealing ridge. Best way I've found is a wire wheel.
You can look up the list number to verify the jets are the correct size- a lot of people try to tune them, and fail.

Theres a lot of tiny parts that will cause poor performance if they're missing, but will still run. Find a good exploded diagram and compare.

I just passed up an '85 fox for $6,000 that the owner kept claiming had no rust besides this. Owner said it's been sitting around for five years before he cleaned it up (it has bbk subframe connectors so I guess there was body work?) and he has a white door he was willing to give me with the car. Just can't imagine this being the only rust on the car and I don't want to get stuck with a car that's destined to rot out under me. Did I fuck up?

Get a Ecoboast instead and blow it up
>do it faggot

It would be weird for that to be the only rust but even if there were no visible body rust you should still check the strut towers and crawl underneath to check the rails.

Yeah I was gonna go seriously check it out until he said it was sitting around for 5 years. That door rust must be from trapped moisture and/or being stored dirty, so it's very likely that it's gonna be a mess underneath. Given that I'm seeing adequate comparable cars going for 3k-5k, I miiiight wanna pass.

85 has a very primitive feeling interior, and dash swaps to the 87-93 are a nightmare.

Rust is easy to find. Just go back with a floor jack.
Sub frame connectors are a simple mod- they just bolt or weld in under the floor pan and have no affect on body work, they just stiffen up the cassis.

matt farah had to make the car wider and longer and replace all the suspension with coilovers and it still didnt handle very good he made videos on all this shit

>I PUT A NEW SHIFTER KNOB ON MY CAR IT'S GOT AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE NOW HURRRR DURRRR HURRRRRR

Then he's a shitty fabricator.
I've been to AI races, other people can dial in a fox and make them handle quite well, without hose extensive mods.

BTW, if someone widened the track and lengthened the wheelbase, its no longer a fox platform now is it?
Its some bastardized butchered home made suspension grafted to an existing chassis.
>b-b-but he's a professional
With zero skill.

he paid a not shitty shop to do really good work and bought only the best parts

dude it was built not to be a car that corners hard

could you imagine trying not to spin on the downhill with this thing, scary af

that being said for how cheap it is just get it and make it straight line fast

>say car is stock.
>half a dozen mods visible from one pic.

Tires are not original size- performance mod
Hood is 25 pounds lighter- performance mod.

I don't think mpeople understand what "stock" is anymore.

My post sad nothing and "performance" mods or being "built".
It said STOCK.

holy fuck youre a faggot

He didn't make it longer, just added some fender flares to fit wider tires.

He did replace all the suspension components with a 03-04 cobra parts, includind the IRS

Not OP but im a new driver and also looking at one of these, whats your guys' opinion? I know im probably going to be fucked out of the ass on insurance but just for learning how do they fare?

youre going to kill yourself driving one

Honestly primitive is the reason I want a pre-86 foxbody. I can't afford the 1st gen that I want right now so the plan is get a carb'd foxbody, clean it up, learn how to live with a carburetor, and sell it when it appreciates to put towards a good 68.

So... You're saying its only "modified" if you've changed engine components?

Are you saying the only things that count as "performance" mods are upgrades to the engine?

If I want a STOCK vehicle, it means all original components.

Seriously, that car has a friggin stormin Norman hood.
Probably rubs on the top of the strut tower.
Possibly doesn't latch correctly.

Also, car is a repaint.

>common problems

It's too heavy

Yep, probably going to die.

Its not a car to learn ANYTHING in (well, if you're trying to learn overstear, sure).

Its a very twitchey car. Ass end will slide out if someone poured the rest of their soda out the window on the freeway on ramp.
The minimal under steer it has is immediately followed by snap overstear. The only way to drive it is by floating the rear end somewhere between the yellow and white line.

Although AFTER enough experience, it can be very fun.
The overstear is PREDICTABLE and easy to control though. Even in dirt I can put her exactly where I want to go with both tires spinning the whole way.

A lot of people mod them and put IRS

which still doesn't help. See:

Me.
Cars never been modified.

Insurance isn't expensive at all because the car isn't worth anything by their valuation. They'll total it easily.

Stay away. $6,000 is way too much for a pre '86 mustang. Its slower and doesnt even have an 8.8 rear end