/mg/ miata general

>twilight blue mica
sapphire blue mica is superior

also, ricelands4lyfe

france here. that's the same, importing one from UK in 'round three month.

Me again, do you think it would be possible to time the headlight actuators with an arduino to do the sleepy eyes thing?

Sort of like this but going between half height for low beams and all the way up for low+high beams.

instructables.com/id/Popup-headlight-wink-with-arduino-and-relay-board-/
youtube.com/watch?v=Iw2_0Dt-eI0

milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/5698669718.html
I'm gettin it. How fucked am I Veeky Forums?
Also how much would it run to fix a crack about a foot long in the windshield?

Don't get either. Spend your money on going faster.

Maybe he can't afford a new car.

No, but if he can afford to spend $650 on taillights, he can afford to spend money on a set of 225 EHP summer tires on 15x9s or a 6MT and Torsen and lightweight flywheel or Bilsteins and coilover sleeves and poly bushings.

I've already got my money set aside for new wheels and summer tires, but I bought the car with a lot of tread on the current tires so I'm gonna wear them out first. I'm currently in the process of doing a full tune up on the engine, replacing all the fluids and wear items, and I'm waiting until after I'm done with that to do any serious drivetrain modification.

The biggest thing is that my right taillight is very sunfaded and ugly because of it, so I have to replace it. I figure I might as well improve the look because I'm not a huge fan of the stock lights anyway.

I really appreciate the input though.

And also I have my daily driver for going faster. My miata is about having fun and I already have a ton of fun with it stock. Not that it won't be more fun with a more capable car, but I'm in no rush to improve performance. My main priority is restoring the integrity of the car, the exterior, and interior.

I think it'd be tough. The headlight angle for the low beams is aligned for fully deployed pop-ups. Sure you can adjust then, but then it throws off the angle of the high beams. So you would have to install a second motor to adjust the actual sealed beam angle.

It'll be tough if you wanna do it right, but it'll look really cool and for sure one of a kind.

Daily reminder the NA is cheaper... and lighter...

and...

AND...

IT HAS POP-UPS! BAM!
>Not liking OEM master race
I prefer the GV style between those two. I would like Carbon Miata's lights better if it didn't replace the finish panel, too - though that makes it convenient for anyone who's missing one. B-b-but LEDs...
>But OEM style is SUPERIOR
>hope it's worth the weight
Doubtful... good luck. Probably should've gone with Hella E-codes. That said, I wish the only DOT approved 7" LED lamp I could find didn't have a fucking weird design... I really want to get lights that are more up-to-date, preferably without replacing the factory housings.
>what are ya buyin
Tires. Most likely 195/50R15 RE-71Rs.
Aren't replacement windshields like $300 or something like that? Think so. Chuck those boat anchor wheels ASAP.

I'm looking for wheels that are kinda cheep and

last week purchases: new radiator, set of hoses, carpets, water pump
and an automatic antenna because i like to add pointless weight

also, i'm in a process of getting 6 gearbox and torsen

man, if my planning is correct mods gonna cost me ~$10k
could've just went with s2000 and save myself the hassle
though miata's going to end up faster than it
and with a nicer interior too

3500 usd if well maintained

And it is floppier chassis and much less powerful.

Yeah, it sounded better in my head. Maybe I'll do it and just have it work like daytime lights or something.

I recently installed my GV rear panel. If I could do it over again, I think I would go with the Carbon Miata panel. I like the look of the GV panel a lot more, but they were such a hassle to install properly, I think I'd rather just take the less frustrating route.

Posted in the last /mg/, but didn't really get any opinions. I want to get a Revlimiter front badge for my red NA, but I can't decide on which style and color. I'm thinking the Type V in black since I think blue will look out of place on a red car, or the black and read Elanore. What's /mg/'s opinion?

Thanks. I think I'll go with the carbon miata.

I saw your post last thread about the badges. Repost the link to the selection so we can see what your talking about? Some of em looked really good.

Not him but I think this is what he is talking about.

revlimiter.net/store/badges.php

Any wheel and roll bar suggestions?

Hey Veeky Forumshio Miata bro, what part?

I think the blue wouldn't look too off seeing as it's darker blue, but black will definitely clash less and I think it'll look better/more classic

Outside of columbus

Nice, I lived in Columbus for a while. I am just north of downtown Cincinnati now.

Anyone here use a car cover/canopy for their Miata? Mine is going to be sitting outside and I'd like to cover it with something. Any experiences good/bad would be helpful.

Just bought a car cover and I'm also interested

tfw no bbk

>Rotor size is nearly proportional to the size of the wheel

I have a gigantic autism boner

what about the way this v8 is nearly proportional to the size of the engine bay

Did any Miata come with a painted/colored valve cover from the factory? I need to replace the gasket and I was planning on cleaning up the cover and possibly painting it when I have it off. I'd like to keep it OEM looking. I guess I'm thinking of the Type-R stuff from Honda with the red textured covers.

Go with black, grey, or the body color of your car to keep it looking oem/not too "ricey"

Im planning on doing the same thing

ey wisconsin boys i live in appleton , UWM for school in a few weeks.

pls buy my wheels

oh jeez that rust is pretty killer my man be cautious

i've got some Team Dynamics for sale

Mtisu Eclipse air vents worked p. well

...

how much you think it would run to get it repaired at a body shop?
i know a guy that runs a local one
>just rust belt things

chillin in sheboygan till i grow old and die man, this place sucks you in like a black hole.

>saw a clean black NB parked a little while ago
>penis got a little hard
>saw a clean black bmw Z3 parked nearby it
>penis also got a little hard

god damnit, i want both ;_;

anyone using a good aftermarket shift knob? thinking of swapping out the stock one

As someone with a clean black NB, get that one.

Yes user, you're 13 years old. We get it.

Stay mad

who 1.6 here?

Does anyone have a Miata Pepe?

...

whats the most I should pay for a miata?

Is there any point in getting an automatic?

> more expensive car
> double the horsepower

Many thanks friend

LED headlights work I guess

One of my bezels only had 2 out of 3 screws it in tho

Apparently they're #8 x 3/4"

5-6k for best generation NB
Absolutely not, absolute last car you should get an automatic in

Check out Good-Win-Racing's site for some ideas. Konig makes knockoffs but they're decent; cheap and light. Enkeis are generally light but if you go with the wheels they made for Mazda, they're stupid heavy - 2002 SE wheels are like 18 lbs IIRC. Mazdaspeed Miata's 17" Racing Hart wheels are also heavy but they do look good on NBs at stock height. It's funny that Rota's RKR knockoff wheels are a pound lighter than the real thing (Watanabe), with the exception of magnesium versions. I personally think the classic eight-spoke design is great on the NA. Anyway, if you have an NB, IMO I think Volk TE37s and Advanti Storm S1 wheels are the nicest, lightest, matching styles. Of course it you can't afford genuine TE37s, there may be the option of Konig's copy of it, although the offset might not be what you're looking for. Don't recall if Kosei wheels are listed on GWR's website. Really fucking sucks that 949 Racing doesn't produce larger batches of wheels and keeps them in stock. I feel like Flyin' Miata bought a huge portion of them and IIRC jacked up the price - maybe I'm imagining that though. I was planning on buying a second set of 6ULs.

K

don't give him attention

Gondola get the fuck out of here you homo

>best generation NB

t. poorfag NA owner

>Daily reminder the NA is cheaper... and lighter...
Lighter by a negligable amount and heavier in some years. Doesn't mean shit since the NB handles infinitely better due to a better chassis. On top of handling better it's faster, has a better interior, better steering, more reliable etc. There's absolutely no reason to buy an NA as much as you faggots like to lie to yourselves.

>IT HAS POP-UPS! BAM!
And it's also a bar of soap which has zero definition while the NB actually has styling to it.

I keep seeing NB's going for 7k and up on craigslist. Is this just a midsummer thing or does it go away?
Last NB I looked at in that price range I think might have been flooded...

5-6k is standard burger price, no idea where you live but it could go that high.

Also yes, the price will be highest in spring summer.

I wanted a cheap car and I prefer the styling of the soap bar NA. Two reasons fuck you

DC metro area, I've only recently wanted an NB. Probably just boomers who think it's worth more than it is

ND > NA > NC > NB

I know the truth hurts, but you'll have to accept it some time.

see: You have absolutely no objective reasoning whereas I do, kindly fuck off.

eight hundred shekels, do i buy?

>Wheel
Advanti Storm S1. They're good looking, insanely light, and not particularly expensive. 6ULs are always a good choice as well, but a bit pricier.

>Roll bar
Hard Dog Ace or Deuce if it's a street car. They're designed to mount farther back than other bars, which makes them the only roll bar that's safe to use without a helmet. They're shorter, though, in order to still fit under the top, so you won't pass the broomstick test with it. So if you track your cast you'll want a Hard Dog Hardcore or a Blackbird Fabworx GT3 if you want the best.

Does anyone know if there is a way to repair this?
:c

>shekels
if it has a ok motor then yeah

>Doesn't mean shit since the NB handles infinitely better due to a better chassis.
NB is a little bit stiffer, not a whole lot. Even then, stiffness isn't the end all and be all of handling. The NB does have a couple of suspension geometry upgrades, but you can easily swap those parts into an NA.

>Replace thermostat
>Lift-off belt squeak when the A/C is on goes away
I hate this god damn car, nothing makes any fucking sense

runs and drives fine, the only thing i can really see wrong is that the convertible back "window" part is really fucking nasty looking

that shits no big deal you can find a soft top easy, and if you dont live in california then you could probably find a hardtop easy too

>want to buy an android auto head unit
>800x480 res
>$500+
dang

just bought a set of these, opinions?

looks badass! where'd you get them?

I have no idea but probably more than you think, youd want to weld in new metal. Iktf

>better interior

NA6 before the weird arm pads is the cleanest interior and it isn't even close.

Anyone have any experience boosting their miata? was it worth it?

Front 22mm swaybar is in and hoe-lee-shit my car went from an amusement park pirate ship to a lazer guided missile in the corners. It's a cliche bimmerdouche thing to say but it feels like it's on rails now. Constantly correcting on the highway is gone too, only other chassis mod is the harddog but that'll change soon enough.

I know you're trolling but the old saying goes NB is the better car, NA is the better miata. It's the old saying because there's so much aftermarket now that a miata is whatever you make it and stock for stock comparisons are pointless since they're just starting points.

FYI, the performance increase is psychological. Your car is now flatter through the corners at the expense of front end grip, when it was already set up to understeer from the factory. The actual performance limits of your car were reduced, you just feel more comfortable approaching them now.

Plastidip black and a can of glossifier. Waiting for a day that's not raining and under 80% humidity (Toptip, subtropical climate in autumn) to paint my new hardtop.

Need new rear diff bushings, heater core and to install my GV front lip.

Otherwise same old. Got a 10" sub in the back now, it's not as bad as people said regarding the wall, but I've not heard one with a sub on the shelf either.

Adding to the new hardtop - now I can HEAR how much the chassis deforms when entering/exiting driveways. Tried rubbing grease over the metal/plastic to rubber/plastic contact points, but goodness me the creaking. Will have to take a squizz at butterfly/rails soon.

It's always worth it once you've spent the money, provided you actually had the budget to do so.

A good baby step might be to get a PnP ECU, advance the timing and maybe get a cam upgrade.

Don't forget door bars if you're not a big guy (4u) and can deal with the passenger compartment intrusion
I've read some people say they're even better than butterfly and rails

FYI benchracing is a psychological disorder for people who don't venture out into the real world. I actually drive my car and I tried out a cheap modification that improved the real world driving "performance", if I wanted to be faster in the corners I would buy better tires.

I'm 6'2 and at full seat back my leg is still slightly bent at full clutch out. I'm a freak.
I don't care about passengers, hence going from motorbikes, to a Stagea (rip) to this little button. I'll have to check the local club if anyone has the door bars and try them out, also the law lol.

IMO Tyres are the best upgrade, even though they're consumable.
Went from chinkos that would slide/understeer in the hot dry summer before my bumpstops on stock springs were touched. Went to Direzza ZII's and promptly shit my pants (stock daisies). Only $60 per corner more than entry chinks, too. WIN. Can only imagine what 15x9's give.

I'm sorry, are you implying that I don't have a Miata with probably more money in it than yours to use as both daily driver and weekender? You should recalibrate your expectations if you think owning the most produced car of its type in history makes you part of some sort of super exclusive club that the average Veeky Forums poster can't possibly attain.

>m-my monies
>my secrt club

Built. Not. Baught. I would turn a profit if I sold my miata, bet you would lose benchracer. Lets measure our dicks some more what do you ride?

so in a month or two, I'm moving to a new place. its much nice location then the previous, but there an open driveway and not a gated one. I've heard of "actual honda enthusiasts" relocating their ecu to the front passenger seat and taking it with them every time they leave the car to leave it immobilized. anyone knows if I can remove the default ECU and not have to worry about anything besides temporary abnormal idle?