1999 Cherokee

>ultra poorfag
>$3200 Jeep
Bitch I have 4 shitboxes that combined cost less than that. And 4.0s run forever..FOREVER!

>ultrapoorfag

OP listed nothing else about what limits his decision other than money. When you're asking for advice based on money, then that is the metric you use to compare vehicles, so fuck you yes it's a fair comparison

Pray tell how is maintenance on an XJ equivalent to maintenance on a Civic?

Right away, the XJ has 4wd, therefore the drivetrain has more components to maintain and the engine has two more cylinders. Shit, even the tires for an XJ are more money.

Reliability? You seriously want us to believe that a fucking Chrysler product is just as reliable as a Honda? You're arguing against common knowledge, sorry.

The 4.0 is one of the most reliable engines ever made lmao, I have a 95 xj, 98 civic, and 86 civic wagon and I have put less money on the 324k mile xj then the 150k wagon and 250k coupe

The drivetrain for a stock DD is fairly robust on the XJ. Tires in a 235/75R15 are pretty cheap and at least as cheap as what you could get on a civic. Is it as reliable as a honda? No probably not, but it is built heavier than most hondas. You really loose credibility when you base maintenance on the number of cylinders. The 4.0 will outlast the truck and will easily last as long as any Japanese 4 or 6 cylinder.

I thought fwd was bad?

ausfag all the way across the pond here tis true even in my smallass city.

>$3,200
Better be fucking spotless in and out and run like the day it was built

However

Assuming it's in that condition, it's a fair price for a fucking solid 4x4. Learn to wrench, learn the common problems, carry spare parts. You're looking at a '99, so you already have several upgrades over most years including;
>open cooling system
>double diaphragm brake booster
>heater core valve delete
>OBDII w/ dashboard code display
>Chrysler 8.25" rear axle
And several others. For the cost of doing most of that shit to an '87-'95 in that shape you're coming out ahead.

>open cooling system
99 owner with 237,XXX miles, what's this about an open cooling systems? Mine's having issues right now

Standard open system with an unpressurized overflow bottle and a radiator cap. Prior year models used the Renix closed system which is a pain in the ass and requires different maintenance procedures, also the bottle is pressurized and likes to grenade, also the caps sometimes don't fit right, lose pressure and the coolant boils over. It's just way less of a headache and not "the worst mistake we ever made" (as stated by Chryco Jeep engineers during the conversion). I need to burp the closed system in my MJ.

I have a 95 and all I do is give the system a flush before winter and my air blows nice and hot ;) never overheats or anything

checked, I was havi9ng gurgling sounds and noticed that whomever worked on my XJ last didn't tighten one of the clamps on the skinny hose connecting to the thermostat housing, which I think was the cause of the leak I was dealing with, but my fucking electric fan seized and I still have to replace it, how do I know if mine is a pressurized system?

Yeah but how about sitting at a traffic light on a 104* summer afternoon
I want this stupid thing out of my Comanche and replaced with the right system.

All coolant systems are pressurized. In a closed system the entire fucking thing is pressurized. You have a 99, you are guaranteed the open system. For everyone else the absence of a cap atop the radiator is a dead fucking giveaway it's a closed one.

ah, closed is what I meant, and since I have a cap I can sigh in relief, shitty thing is I have mud in the cap neck which means I need to flush my system badly, is there any particular method I should avoid when flushing it? I heard something about putting pressurized water in during the flush can damage the heater core, any truth to this?

Not him but my heater core was already dickered from being gunked up and when I ran a hose through the system it fixed it :)

>:)
yeah nah, fuck off
next thing you'll tell me is you can make homemade vapo-rub by mixing chlorine and bleach

i used to have to do that every 2 years
it sucks

I'm not fuckin with ya lmao here is a pic of my flush set up, got a little t shaped nozzle that fits a hose and put it in this coolant line, then disconnect the line that goes to the block and Let the water run through until it's clear water coming out

why does yours look different than mine

>Cherokee
>Chrysler
Lol

You have a closed system, he has an open.
Id suggest converting to open at some point.

I have an old design ('95)

On top of that, yours is a renix. That little plastic thing behind the battery covers your scan ports as well as a few relays and the starter circuit stuff

are they the same?

Lolno. Welcome to Renix Hell.

Are what the same?
Renix is amcs Renault/Bosch fuel injection/ecu system, after that they switched to a normal obd2 setup as per regulations.

hell? my check engine light is not on.
it does crank a while before it starts but it always did that

Other than faulty grounds causing running issues renix isn't all that bad.

My friend is working on a scanguage type thing to hook up to renix jeeps, current snag is that it won't read from either of my manual comanches for some reason

>Renix
>CEL
You mean your eyes and ears
Your scan tool is a multimeter

You don't have a CEL. You have a maintenance timer that sets a 'MAINT' Light.
The long crank is just due to how renix finds tdc during cranking, which takes longer than what the newer ones do.

He could be losing his CPS, mine had that symptom since I bought it and it went away when I replaced the CPS on a no-start.

eh no leaks and runs pretty strong
even the oil pan is dry

Absolute hondaboo retard.

Cherokees used off road last longer than any civic that has ever been. Cherokees on the road will lost longer.

The 4wd components aren't shitty can't take torque CRV shit, they're solid open diffs and metal drive shafts. They're gonna out last anything honda has made.

Engine is bullet proof, even if you break something, repairs are easy and cheap.

Wow, so much ignorance.... Never change Veeky Forums

I feel like you're overpaying, but I love XJs. I've had 3 and they were all awesome. Living in Colorado, it's nice to have a vehicle that can handle trails stock. If I could bend physics and jam that 4.0 in my pickup, I absolutely would. You'd be hard pressed to find a more reliable engine with an absolutely massive fanbase, knowledgable on the most minute of details on those.

TL;DR

I feel it's too much, but if I needed another one, I would pay it. Also I like the

$3200 for a truck with rusted out rockers, why?

If you're an ultra poorfag, stick with 4cyl fwd economy cars, case closed.

XJ Cherokee, while more durable than something like a Civic, is less reliable (given similar levels of care). The Cherokee (and honestly many SUVs) will have more issues related to various driveline and suspension sourced vibrations and wobbles, they have more components to service if they are a 4wd model (rear diff fluid, front diff fluid, t-case, greasing u joint zerks).

If you must have an SUV, try to at least find a cleaner example with less rust. I think reputations of particular models are overblown. At this point, you're buying the previous owner's habits and maintenance regimen more so than a particular make or model.

Lastly, I'd argue you're much better off buying from a private seller than a dealer. Dealers are simply middle men making out like bandits on used cars that they scoop up on trade or at auction and flip usually with minimal meaningful reconditioning. I'd rather buy at the source and get a feel for the previous owner.

Feel free to let us know your general vicinity and I'm sure we can CL-hunt for a decent option for you.

Civic guy is back.

No one wants a piece of shit civic. Get the fuck outta here.

Nope a different person altogether. I own both a '96 4Runner and a cheapo 6cyl sedan. There's a ton more that needs to be looked after on a 4wd SUV, just in terms of sheer number of parts and things to look after. Am I wrong?

Lot less on a '99 than on my '89. You can easily make a stock '99-'01 a reliable DD. A little more to maintain, sure, but it'll be perfectly useful.

My stock '89 MJ however, is not. It still has all the old renix junk in it. The closed cooling system alone already concerns me in the middle of a southern summer. A spare parts kit for such a vehicle includes such things multiple engine sensors, ballast resistors, and a length of wire. The '99 model year presents no such problems.

Yes and no depends on the truck. If the transfer case and diffs don't leak most of the time they are non issues. A lot of the 4x4s are just 2wd trucks with a front diff, transfer case, and a lifted suspension, so the problems tend to be similar between them. The real differences usually come when your talking about 3/4 and 1 tons.

A fwd sedan just has ATF to look after, is easy to keep aligned and wheels balanced, the suspension geometry and restricted travel just leaves fewer opportunities to things to get screwed up (death wobble, Toyotas like mine have their own maladies). If it's at least a manually actuated t-case then that's one less thing to worry about, but otherwise there's solenoids that can get sticky or fail.

I'm just saying if the OP is a self-described "ultra poorfag" looking at a Cherokee made during the range of years that had the cracking head issue, and it's a 17 year old 4wd that very well probably needs a full baselining in terms of fluids, maybe a u joint or two need attention. If he's mechanically inclined no problem. If he just needs to get around and seriously needs to count his pennies, then a mundane fwd sedan is hands down the way to go.

unfortunately true.