Hey everyone, time to change my Oil again and I was wondering if we had any BITOG scholar or chemists on here. Basically, my car (2012 Ford DOHC V6) is spec'd to run semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5w20 for 10k OCI but I've been running full-Synthetic 0w20 for all 43k miles at around 5-7k OCI but did the full 10k this time with Royal Purple 0w20 (it was on clearance for $20 by accident and it has a lot of Molybdenum).
It's not a particularly smooth engine and I'm considering trying a 0w30 Oil, OR a 0w25 if 20 and 30 weight Oils WILL mix completely and make it 25 weight. I'm curious to see if a 0w30 oil will dampen vibrations a little bit or make it feel any different at all. My powertrain warranty is up, so that is a non-issue.
The same engine in a performance model, with the exact same block, oil pump, oil pan, filter, etc is also spec'd to run 20w50 oil so I can't imagine switching from the 20 weight to the 30 weight will be an issue at all. I'll probably do it anyway and might even use Motorcraft's 5w30 semi-syn to try it out. Is there anything in particular in the Additive Package I should look for to help keep Oil in the upper engine for frequent starts or additives that clean sludge? Is Molybdenum really a 'magic' additive to prevent wear and increase lubricity like some people swear by?
Anyway, I want to try 30 weight or 25 weight (if possible), and again, the exact same engine and every part in a different model is spec'd for 20w50 so I can't imagine any flow restrictions. Am I good to go?
Liam Reed
It's not enough of a grade difference, and in hotter countries it's probably spec'd for 5w30
But running 5w30 when 0w20 has enough pressure and no consumption is silly. The thinner oil reduces temperatures with increased flow.
Jordan Wilson
I'm confused if your car is required to have 5w20 why are you putting 0w20 in it? You should be putting what Ford recommends. You're putting way to much into the oil change thought process. Buy some motocraft oil and filter and be done with it.
Levi Rodriguez
5w or 0w is not important unless he's in canada.
Julian James
get what is spec'd by the manufacturer for your car, if your engine is modified refer to an experienced engine builder
Julian Garcia
it's really not going to make a noticeable difference one way or the other
Evan Anderson
>I'm considering trying a 0w30 Oil, OR a 0w25 if 20 and 30 weight Oils WILL mix completely and make it 25 weight.
When you mix the different oils together, you didn't change the molecular shapes of the different oils. What happens is the additive packages have some overlap, but some additives may be different and thus continue to influence oil in their own way (provided that the additive molecule and the oil moleculre are next to each other at that time).
Mixing the different oil base stocks together didn't change the different base stock molecules. You can have a bottle of sand particles sized to 30 microns and another bottle of sand particles sized to 20 microns. If you mix both bottles together, the particles don't magically change their crystalline shape to be 25 microns in size. What you end up is a mix of 30 micron particles and 20 micron particles.
Hudson Perry
I run valvoline straight 50 nigga
Connor Edwards
I would run 5w30 and take an oil sample and send it to blackstone labs. 10k on a car engine oil with 'normal' driving habits sounds like a recipe for expensive problems and shit wear patterns.
Moly is a very good additive IMO. Its not the best thing by far, but it is good. I like high zinc oils but those are better for diesels. Good oil changed regularly with a good filter is all you really need honestly.
Jaxson Ross
Why in gods name are you giving it something other than 5w20 like it asks for?
You can switch to full synthetic if you like, but for the love of god, don't pretend you did the engineering on that engine, give it what the engineers stated is best.
