Oil 'Experts' on Veeky Forums?

Hey everyone, time to change my Oil again and I was wondering if we had any BITOG scholar or chemists on here. Basically, my car (2012 Ford DOHC V6) is spec'd to run semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5w20 for 10k OCI but I've been running full-Synthetic 0w20 for all 43k miles at around 5-7k OCI but did the full 10k this time with Royal Purple 0w20 (it was on clearance for $20 by accident and it has a lot of Molybdenum).

It's not a particularly smooth engine and I'm considering trying a 0w30 Oil, OR a 0w25 if 20 and 30 weight Oils WILL mix completely and make it 25 weight. I'm curious to see if a 0w30 oil will dampen vibrations a little bit or make it feel any different at all. My powertrain warranty is up, so that is a non-issue.

The same engine in a performance model, with the exact same block, oil pump, oil pan, filter, etc is also spec'd to run 20w50 oil so I can't imagine switching from the 20 weight to the 30 weight will be an issue at all. I'll probably do it anyway and might even use Motorcraft's 5w30 semi-syn to try it out. Is there anything in particular in the Additive Package I should look for to help keep Oil in the upper engine for frequent starts or additives that clean sludge? Is Molybdenum really a 'magic' additive to prevent wear and increase lubricity like some people swear by?

Anyway, I want to try 30 weight or 25 weight (if possible), and again, the exact same engine and every part in a different model is spec'd for 20w50 so I can't imagine any flow restrictions. Am I good to go?

It's not enough of a grade difference, and in hotter countries it's probably spec'd for 5w30

But running 5w30 when 0w20 has enough pressure and no consumption is silly. The thinner oil reduces temperatures with increased flow.

I'm confused if your car is required to have 5w20 why are you putting 0w20 in it? You should be putting what Ford recommends. You're putting way to much into the oil change thought process. Buy some motocraft oil and filter and be done with it.

5w or 0w is not important unless he's in canada.

get what is spec'd by the manufacturer for your car, if your engine is modified refer to an experienced engine builder

it's really not going to make a noticeable difference one way or the other

>I'm considering trying a 0w30 Oil, OR a 0w25 if 20 and 30 weight Oils WILL mix completely and make it 25 weight.

When you mix the different oils together, you didn't change the molecular shapes of the different oils. What happens is the additive packages have some overlap, but some additives may be different and thus continue to influence oil in their own way (provided that the additive molecule and the oil moleculre are next to each other at that time).

Mixing the different oil base stocks together didn't change the different base stock molecules. You can have a bottle of sand particles sized to 30 microns and another bottle of sand particles sized to 20 microns. If you mix both bottles together, the particles don't magically change their crystalline shape to be 25 microns in size. What you end up is a mix of 30 micron particles and 20 micron particles.

I run valvoline straight 50 nigga

I would run 5w30 and take an oil sample and send it to blackstone labs. 10k on a car engine oil with 'normal' driving habits sounds like a recipe for expensive problems and shit wear patterns.

Moly is a very good additive IMO. Its not the best thing by far, but it is good. I like high zinc oils but those are better for diesels. Good oil changed regularly with a good filter is all you really need honestly.

Why in gods name are you giving it something other than 5w20 like it asks for?

You can switch to full synthetic if you like, but for the love of god, don't pretend you did the engineering on that engine, give it what the engineers stated is best.

its not about what is best, it is about 'what will get this car to get out of warranty and also meet CAFE requirements'.

Ford pissed off a lot of truck owners a few years back by putting fluids in the trucks that were not up to the task if the trucks were used by trucks so they could eek out 1/4 of an MPG out of them.

>the oil cap is wrong
>the manufacturer is wrong
I'm retarded, the post

The W value is the viscosity at low temperature and the other the viscosity at high temperature. Low viscosity at low temps is a good thing as the oil is very fluid at startups and will lube the engine faster, it's especially important if you live in a cold climate where the temperature goes below freezing. One should not run 10W in the winter if it's below freezing, 5w is good for about -20*c and 0w is even better.

Higher viscosity at high temps helps to protect the engine. A 20 rating is very low, and if you run your engine hard, the oil will get lower viscosity the hotter it gets until it's to thin to protect the engine. I think that manufacturers recommend low viscosity oils in order to lower fuel consumption as there's less resistance in the engine. Also there's less chance for a thicker oil to be consumed by the engine.

I drive a Miata and 10w30 is the stock oil for it. But it has problems with vavle ticking at low temperatures and some have problems with oil consumption at high temperatures. Seen people switch to 0w40 and getting rid of the problems as the oil is now much more fluid at low temps and lubes the valves faster at startup and the oil is thicker when the engine is warm so less oil goes into the combustion chamber.
Will change to 0w40 today, pretty excited :)

Go for 0w30m, or 0w40 if you drive hard.

Don't get meme

>experts on Veeky Forums

>triplets
behold the power of superior black sperm

In Australia we generally run 15w40. stay mad.

Probably no problem running that weight when you live in a fucking dessert.

>Trusting the manufacturer
They want your engine to wear out so you can buy a new engine/car from them. They don't care about the long run, they only care about making it last the warranty time out, and keeping your fuel consumption low.

>not trusting the manufacturer
Never change Veeky Forums
Coming from the guy that probably runs 10w30 in his car because he thinks a heavier weight oil will stop oil consumption and leaks

Will actually swap from 10w30 to 0w40 today. Deal with it faggot

Enjoy your ruined engine. I'll enjoy my engine that's running pristine.
It's requires 0w20 know what I put in it?
0w20
Because the oil cap says so.
And that's what it was formulated and made to run.
And because I'm not stupid.
Imagine that.

Stop trolling

stop being dumb

stop being stupid

stop being a boomer and believing everything on the internet

Reading the backstory on this pic makes me even more angry then if he was cucked

post a link

>tfw oil ratings are weird as fuck and I don't know what any of that means
>I just keep putting in 0w40 synthetic because 5w40 is more expensive here

Just google the image it be the first hit. It makes me think how all the fringe christians are insane. They are evangelicals for the record

The Xw number has no effect over performance. It simply notes the thickness for cold starts. However, the further you get between the first number and second number, the more viscosity modifiers have to be used in the oil mixture. The only downside to choosing 0w20 over 5w20 in ANY engine that explicitly calls for 5w20 is that the viscosity modifier additives are used up quicker, and so you get slightly shorter oil change intervals.