What's the most expensive repair bill you've ever paid? This includes total parts cost if you do your own labor too...

$6000+ on a new gasket, new waterpump, fixed support struts, lubed/oiled axles

That's a load of shit

I'm about to either drop 400 on a rebuild kit or drop in a different engine/trans in my truck. Most expensive part yet

>That's a load of shit
I agree, The dealer "claimed" that when the alternator died (her did in fact stop and die) that her battery, computer and something about the ABS were also damaged by the failed alternator.
Total BS.

But I didn't find out till later

This has to be bait please I hope you got some kind of hardcore performance struts and rebuilt the suspension yourself with top of the line manufacturers

I totaled a car worth about 8k at the time, no idea what the actual damage was

Not me but i just finished up a car for one of my customers and his repair bill is around $37k USD

I would let somebody shit into my mouth for that kind of money right now.

I just did plugs, wires, one ignition coil, struts, mounts, pads, rotors, front axles, front hub bearings, outer tie rods and ball joints on my 99 Caddy STS for about 800 Cost

You payed $2k to have a block machined. What the actual fuck.

i know you guys are gonna make fun of me, but it was before i could wrench, but i paid the dealer $5k to replace a blown motor on my wrx

>Nearly $2,000 of that cost came from taking the block to NAPA to have all mating surfaces machined, the cylinders bored and honed .030" over and all the components balanced.

Can you even read?

That's decking the block, milling the cylinder head, boring the block, and a balance. Did he overpay? Almost certainly. Did he pay $2k for an overbore? No.

semi related

>car noob
>get first car
> MKII supra
>ship it to home
>have to get it road worthy
>take it to local small mechanics down the road
>that'll be $1500 to get up to road worthy standard
>mm i think im getting ripped
>go onto toyota forums
>guy off forums says to take it to his shop (toyota dealership) and he'll get manager to give me a good deal
>go there, mention said guy
>quote, $3000, plus a new exhaust system + 4 new tyres
>"user will help you, so you can save money on time here and here"
>took it right back to my local and paid the $1500

fuck dealerships

Over a grand for pads and rotors,shoes and drums, master cylinder, calipers, soft lines and hard brake lines. Basically my entire brake system failed on a 99 wrangler. My dad's mechanic later told me he would've done the whole thing for less than 500 but I broke down in the parking lot of the other shop

$1400 for a clutch and flywheel.

I just sold a guy pads and rotors all four corners for $2100. He's returning them all to pay the dealership over 5 grand parts and labor

most I ever paid for something on any of my cars was £180 when the clutch slave cylinder went on my Isuzu Trooper, guess I've been lucky.

That is reasonable Stealership pricing. My local chevrolet stealership charged $170 for alignment as an example. This is one of those giant dealerships that has super giant service department that totally dwarfs all the other dealership space combined. It has eaten up all the local competition around it and thus enjoys and benefits from having a sort of captive audience.

As a result, the service advisors often have a predatory pricing approach that leads off with a "we'll need to inspect your car to see what's wrong" which means either the $130 or $300 detailed inspection. Then they come back with a list of things for you to sign. If you don't choose them, they have you initial something that says you choose to not get it repaired. It's something they can use to invalidate your warranty especially since you initialed it. Predatory but legal.

If guess if the service advisor wants another designer handbag that month, she has to make sure the customers are steered in the proper direction here in Renton, Washington state. The land of high priced chevy service.

The smart people who didn't have cars towed to the nearest dealer will go up the road a bunch of miles. While pretty far, the prices are a lot better. Instead of Renton chevy's alignment price of $170, that dealer charges an everyday price of $69. Other things also have lower saner pricing. But that is the difference between a Renton chevrolet Stealership and the other chevy dealership.

Around 2700 doing a transmission conversion when my old one went.

are there people that pay to things like bulbs and wiper blades changed because I can't even imagine giving someone money for something like that

wish I was in your situation t b h

would pay for a good mkii supra, if I could find one with a good frame

>covertly hidden buyer's remorse thread
Yes, you got screwed over, but probably not as bad as everyone on here would like to believe.

Also
>cars are expensive

I just spent more money to remodel my bathroom than most of you seem to be willing to spend on a car. Cars are only expensive if you're poor, have a low-paying job, or can't balance a budget properly.

Having to drop even $1000 at a time on something for essential/necessary repairs shouldn't be breaking the fucking bank, and if it is, you need to be more worried about fixing your financial standing than bullshitting about boyracer dreams on Veeky Forums.

We had a guy snap a camshaft on his 97 chevy malibu with 189k miles on it.

I work for a franchise and we only install jasper rebuilt engines which are ridiculously expensive. The guy dropped $6700 for a new engine installed.

You could buy the same car all day long around here for $2-3k. Idiot.

I got paid 12.5 hours @ 110.00/hour (Canadian prices) to do a clutch job on an evo x.

so minimum $1375 for just labour. Guy specifically requested an exedy stage 1 clutch (500 bucks or something) I assume the shop ate the cost for transmission/transfer case fluids and flywheel resurfacing.

Sounds like ~2k for a clutch on a 4 year old car. Was slipping under initial boost spike and vehicle only had 102k on it. While I was at the dealer they'd see cars at 40k (kms) regularly for clutches. One kid needed a clutch at 4800 kilometres, before his first oil change.

None. I have a warranty

Makes me wonder how much that Doug Demuro guy has saved with all of his bumper to bumper warranties

1350 engine, 700 for install and I gave him 2 blown ls1s. Didn't run right when I got it back, plus other performance parts on my car disappeared and we're replaced with stockers. Interesting when the guy that did the work has the exact same car...

Never again.

My god 70$ is appropriate for a computerized alignment, but 300 for a detailed inspection from that dealership makes me so mad you can literally do that yourself for free

See I would just replace my clutch myself and get a new flywheel because often is cheaper/better then resurfacing

$0, but I've seen two that were over $100k

Probably this last one, was about 1g (little less), had the suspension done, front control arms replaced and a cv joint replaced.

Oh my god I could replace my control arms with 500$ high performance zzp ones and do my axles and cv joints better than stock, replace tranny fluid and get a steak dinner

Haha wat

About 200-300 for a clutch kit, motor mounts, rear main seal, tranny fluid. Feels good to be able to do the work myself.

resurfacing only costed the dealer 80 bucks iirc.

flywheels aint cheap sempai.

>I get my parts for free
Shitting up /k/ not enough for you?

Why exactly are the pads and rotors so much? Is that mostly labor or parts?

>My god 70$ is appropriate for a computerized alignment, but 300 for a detailed inspection from that dealership makes me so mad you can literally do that yourself for free

That's shows the difference between those two different chevy dealers in that metro area. One is willing to use all the legal jew tactics it can to make money. The other still behaves like a dealership.

The problem is that stealerships are able to keep on being stealerships because the general public doesn't get to see criticisms. The lawyer letters stop any local forums from having peoples' negative opinions posted. It becomes a "remove those posts, ban the user or else libel suit" situation. Many forums now up front say you cannot mention specific names of people or companies or the post will be deleted.

Thus, the stealing attitude is allowed to go on because people never find out. They cannot exert market pressure on the stealership to correct the problem.

I'll do it if getting an oil change. If you look like you are capable of doing it yourself and not retarded they will normally come up with some "Promo" where it ends up costing $5 more than buying the parts at VatoZone. I'll spend the $5 and save my time.

Happened with the air filter a couple weeks ago. Dude originally told me $30 and then dropped a new one in for $15.

$10,000 on a 2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDI. Meme only had 40k miles and the engine let go (for a second time). They VW covered the first engine, but not the second even though it was the same issue.

I have a warranty on my VW meme but they still fuck me time and time again

Paid someone else to work on a car? 600 or so for wheel bearing, oil change and flat repair on my wife's car. Was working third shift and didn't feel like doing it myself.

ON my current car?

3000aud+ for cai exhaust and tune + Shocks and a bunch of shit i dont remember.

Why do you let them? If they're not covering what they're supposed to cover under warranty, don't relent, if they still refuse, call VW. VW cares way more about their reputation than the dealer does.

$3500 for an engine rebuild

worst part is im a mechanic, 7MGE on my Toyota Crown blew the headgasket. was going to do it then my father suddenly died, after one of the 3 people close to me dying i figured fuck i dont want to do the car.

paid a JDM "specialty" place $3500 for the full top end rebuild. first time they put the cams in backwards so it wouldnt start, promised by the next day it would be done. threw me the keys with no receipt, valve cover gaskets started pissing oil a month after from 3/4 of the bolts being loose, one spark plug was WAY overtightened to the point i needed a breaker bar, and a while later now the cam seals are pissing oil leaving a huge puddle allover the timing belt and it burns oil like a whore.

TL;DR, do your own work so you dont pay someone $3500 to ruin your engine like me

about 3 grand. did all the work myself. my engine blew so i upgraded it and changed the car to manual instead.

>7MGE
Why bother? WHY?!

While i still had my cressy's it was easier just to fucking jz swap the cunt.

I had a rebuild go bad but it was a bottom end the mechanics royally fucked my old intec 4.0 with 200k km on it

It was terrible unsalvageable so i just got rid of it and never saw it again everything was fucked.

Now i only go to shops that literally build racecars fuck going from shit shop to shitter shop because they are 'cheap'

A few years ago I paid a Honda dealership 1k to replace the radiator in my Honda crv.

Then not long after that a cylinder started to misfire. Took it to an independent mechanic who replaced the spark plugs but didn't fix the problem. The cylinder continued to misfire for a few more months and I continued to use it as a DD. When it got to the point that the vehicle would violently shake at idle I sold it.

Those were my dark days of vehicle ownership. I rarely changed the oil and beat the shit out of that thing in every way possible.

400 for a diy clutch and flywheel job on my 02 wrx

If it costs more than 500 at the shop to get it done, then i start looking into diying it. That clutch and fly wheel job would of been 3-4k at the dealership.

VWOA doesn't give a shit about me or their customers. I did go to VWOA and they basically told me lol fuck you. I'm just glad they got caught with the TDI's and now they have to buy all these turds back, as well as try and fix their reputation.

That's great, but ability was not the limiting factor involved, it was time

I spent just over $1000 on a valve adjustment, new tires, and general tune-up on my 08 zx6r. It was like a while new bike afterwards

Just paid 700 for a clutchjob. And one day later now l think my crank pulley is broken. lt makes this awful noise like a bucket being dragged over rocks.

l'm so fucked off. l just wanna drive the thing :(

seriously? why don't you go get your shit back

I was out of town when it happened. Moved to a different place to start a job, came back to get the car. I would have done the swap myself if I had been in town/had the time.

I had to pay like $600 for all the stuff to get my car to pass smog when I first bought it.

This trip here spent $15,000 on a shitty Ford that redbooks for under $3000.

my car got vandalized but insurance covered the $3000 bill

most i've had to fork out is $1300 for starter rebuild and fucking glowplugs

$3600

Cam chain & cam belt on an audi A4 2.0 TFSI
one of the more retarded construction i've seen in a good while.

>As a result, the service advisors often have a predatory pricing approach that leads off with a "we'll need to inspect your car to see what's wrong" which means either the $130 or $300 detailed inspection.

This is called a diagnostic fee. It is standard at every shop you go to. We are not going to tell you whats wrong for free. Technicians have to pay for tools and training. Dealers have to pay for even more training, specialized diagnostic equipment, vehicle specific tools, and standard shop equipment.

>Then they come back with a list of things for you to sign. If you don't choose them, they have you initial something that says you choose to not get it repaired. It's something they can use to invalidate your warranty especially since you initialed it. Predatory but legal.

We make recommendations based on what we find. If you're a negligent piece of shit and your car has multiple safety issues, we are going to make you fully aware and document it. On the other hand, if its a piece of shit tech and all they want to sell you is bs services you don't need, if you chooses to decline, it does not invalidate any warranty.

>We make recommendations based on what we find. If you're a negligent piece of shit and your car has multiple safety issues, we are going to make you fully aware and document it.

as a service advisor myself, 100% this.
>Mr Customer, your rear springs are severely rusted and corroded, and are at risk of breaking soon. This can lead to numerous vehicle issues, and is an extreme safety issue. We have time for the tech to do the repair now.
>>oh, how long can I put that off?
>At this point it's possible they could break at any point and are a safety issue. Were you in for your state safety inspection today, we'd fail you for those springs
>>So I can wait a few months before I replace them?
>No, these springs are a safety issue.
>>I'll just wait til my next service.
>Please sign here acknowledging I told you the vehicle is unsafe to drive in the current condition.
>>Why do I need to do that? That's ridiculous!

Don't forget the part where they bomb the survey and tank your paycheck.

I'm getting ready to drop $1600 on 4c Struts +misc bushings on my S60R

Fucked up one of my Pegasus 18x8's and some trim at the track a couple weeks ago so there's another $800 for trim parts, paint and a wheel.

If we're going by this, then my Mazda 6 submarine edition was totaled out for 11400

$800 for rotted rear brake lines on a 96 Taurus. They failed 300 yds from the shop and there were 2 because ABS so once I figured towing, parts, and spending a weekend making pretzels with tubing benders I said fug it, let someone else do it. I paid $400 for the whole car so at $1200 it (still) doesn't owe me anything.

>Survey Comments:
>train your advisors to be more understanding of customers situations and needs for service, xyz was too pushy and wanted me to do service I didn't need! My uncle is a mechanic and he said my springs are FINE