>QTDDTOT
(not another god damn headunit thread)
How hard is it to wire a headunit with no wiring diagram?
I own a car that people dont tend to modify so nobody has posted a diagram as far as I can tell, the stock unit died on me recently and apparently, being a rare model, the replacements are around $700
So how can I wire in a new headunit (pic related) with no harness support and no diagram?
Other urls found in this thread:
rennlist.com
twitter.com
I should add, as far as I can find the 6 stacker in my car was an option that barely anybody fitted and they took it away after just 6 months
They used unique plugs so a harness wont fit
Pretty hard. You need at least harness. You will need a voltage and ampere meter to measure individual cables, need to find gnd etc. If color coding is fucked up, basically through trial and error. Old headunit might have a sticker with wiring diagram. That might be helpful.
Why does nobody design street car wheels with the single locking nut like racing cars?
Its cheaper to have a few medium quality locking nuts than it is to have one really high quality one. You can't get away with using shitty nuts if you only have one.
How do you get newish (2013) economy cars to not have a second-long delay from pressing the accelerator to the engine applying power?
Buy an old car.
Problem solved.
I know there's at least one Toyota fan here but how do you tell if your corolla has 4afe or a 7afe the my Corolla doesn't have any information on it labeled on it
But Porsche does.
Or rather...isn't it BBS where they get the wheels?
GT1 not quite related.
Because its not idiot proof and you need to have a super torque magnifying torque wrench.
7afe redline starts at 6200, and engine cutoff is around 6800. The 4afe revs lower.
444ft/bs +/-22 ft/lbs aint no joke.
also gigantic sockets required.
bro, dont forget they use bolts if you dont get that option
BOLTS
wheel bolts are fine compared to centre lock.
wheel bolts are the norm for European manufactures anyway. likely just to make our lives more difficult in the event of a flat.
Is it possible and/or safe to charge a large battery with a small one? Specifically, a 12v 80ah 600cca car battery with a small sealed 12v 18ah or similar powersports battery in an emergency with jumper cables like you would jumping a car normally? Could you possibly even get it to crank over?
I tried asking Google this but the stupid piece of shit keeps giving me results for the exact opposite, how to charge a small battery with a big one.
It depends on the car.
8.5:1 compression 2.0 turbo 4 banger
>MFW my Corolla doesn't have a rev meter
If I buy an Mr2 and rebuild the 4AGE, can i take it out and drop it in an Ae86 shell easily?
Sorry, I'm retarded and read your question wrong.
The answer is no.
Include the year and model. No one can help you without that basic information.
Yes
fuck you i hate them.
This
Depends on what you consider "easy". You will need to buy a bunch of shit for it.
Fugg
Oh well jump pack it is then
Posting here for visibility as I have yet to get a response
Can someone please tell me how to clean/wax the part that I'm pointing to in this photo? It's a 15 inch wire wheel cover, and I can clean/wax/polish all over except for where the arrow is pointing. I can't get a toothbrush underneath the wires to that flat piece, and jamming a polish cloth underneath isn't effective.
I don't know what else to try; maybe a popsicle stick?
Thanks
Good luck.
Why is the cloth ineffective?
If it was me I'd
>Grab my polish/buff cloth and fold it
>Work the cloth past the spokes
>Apply a small dab of polish/wax to the circle piece
>Work the cloth around back and forth in small sections at a time
Probably get away with using a zip tie or a piece of string tied to the cloth to help pull it back and forth. With it being folded it should apply moderate pressure.
It'll be time consuming but it's better than using a mothers cone foam pad attachment.
>The big red cone attachment for a drill
Sorry, forgot the picture.
It'll work for your intended purpose but it's likely you'll destroy it.
I don't have a question but I was taking off my exhaust manifold this morning to put on my new fancy ass header and one of the fucking bolts broke off into the block and i'm so fucking mad about it I just wanted to vent about it here because i really wanted to put on my new header today but now thats not going to happen. fuck
Thanks for the reply. I did just what you described and it wasn't super effective because the spacing between that back plate and the wires is too narrow. This means if I fold the cloth over and try to push it, it just crumples up and doesn't work right. I mention the popsicle stick because I think (and correct me if I'm wrong) I can put the cloth over it and better clean that plate. Although it'll take longer, it should be more effective. At least that is my thinking.
dont mind me, trying to figure out how to trip code
Test trip, please ignore
Is there a thread for car advice on this board like on /g/ for headphones etc. ?
A template with budget/region/etc. and others give out ideas?
I have some old rims I want to repaint before installing new tires on them.
Can I paint the whole thing, even the inside where the tire covers?
Or do I paint only the exposed face?
Have foxbody 5.0 EFI. Idle is really choppy and after a minute or two the thing really starts gasping for air (you can hear it through the intake) and it dies. No CEL. Cleaned mass air flow. Replaced TPS, PCV, spark plugs, wires, distributor rotor and cap. I'm 99% sure there are no vacuum leaks. It starts just fine so I'm convinced it's not the fuel pump. Getting really annoyed at this point. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
2002 (australian) Toyota Avalon vxi
Some shit was standard. Ground is black. Red and yellow are your 12v. One of those is always hot. Other is hot when acc is on. You should also have 4 sets of wires (8 total) that will be your speaker +/-. Typically green, purple, gray, etc one solid, one with a stripe. If you had a changer then you probably have set of wires that goes to unit. I could give you more info with a picture of the wires
are you missing the cars wiring or the stereos wiring?
>if missing the stereo
look at the circuit board.
electrolytic capacitors have a stripe pointing to negative. speaker connections are usually matched pairs or quads that stay really close to eachother and have identical ceramic/smd capacitors.
>if missing the cars wiring
look at the size of the wires. power and ground will usually be larger gauge wires. measure voltages to ground with the key off/on. one will be hotonkey the other will be alwayshot. the one that measures ~0.01volts is probobly the ground. measure resistance to check. speakers should be 4 - 8 ohms and no shorts to ground or 12v.
>honestly ditch all the OEM wiring
start over. run [new] speaker wire all the way to the speakers. use thick power wires and get a goooooood ground to the frame or body. consider re-pinning the connectors if you can.
Haven't looked at one of those in a long while. Is there an adjust screw on the tps or is it electronically controlled. Also if you did distributor, check timing. If you know anyone with an oscilloscope, you can check the crank sensor although that's unlikely. Starts but dies sounds like fuel air mixture issue
You adjust it by pivoting the sensor on its housing using a multimeter. I'll look into getting it timed thanks mang.
...
I don't care who posts what online. ... if there is stock wiring, there is a wiring diagram... somewhere - mechanics manual... dealership.
Multimeter, AAA battery and some patience. Find your power wires with the multi meter, should be able to find the illumination wire with the multi meter as well. Once you've got all the power, you should be able to test the speakers with the battery one wire on each end until you get a pop, that'll tell you which speaker you've got. That should give you a basic idea of what you've got.
How did it take Veeky Forums to find it's first car? It's been a few months for me, and I'm kinda running out of time. Wondering if I'm being too picky or just properly cautious.
G-guys is it possible to take out a regular headlight housing and fabricate new pop up headlights?
Threre are a shit ton of cars whose only deal breakers is not having pop ups
Also is it possible to buy a car tape deck and put it into any car
Clean the throttle body plate as best you can
Any german fag that can help me pick my first car?
I don't want to spend more than 5k at the moment. I think a Ford Focus with
Didn't you see an existing QTDDTOT you blindfuck?
Sort of. Same type and voltage battery, a small one (fully charged) can dump enough into an undercharged big one to get a couple of cranks out of it and get you going.
They sell emergency power packs (that also have lights, cig lighter power point, etc. that can do exactly this. You keep one in the trunk and trickle charge it off a 12V outlet back there if you are lucky enough to have one. When the main battery goes dead, you can jump it from the power pack.
>Also is it possible to buy a car tape deck and put it into any car
Nope. Never been done before in the history of cars.
Ok but where do I get a good condition automotive tape deck?
For what vehicle?
ls there an unharmful way of turning off an engine from the engine bay?
l'm alone and am trying to diagnose a sound. Would like to turn engine off and see what moving parts sync with the sound.
Taking off fuel injection/pump fuse from fusebox. ls that damaging?
Unplug the MAF.
Centre lock wheels have splined or keyed central bores.
They're expensive to make and need a hefty impact gun to tighten. The only benefit they have is for quick wheel changes.
i said on porsches the other option is bolts. they do come with the centerlug tool so its like you have a big excuse
Retrofitting popup headlights is so difficult it may as well be impossible.
Unplugging the fuel pump relay should be fine. Either that or pull out the EMS fuse.
The bore of the wheel will still be splined/keyed? I've never seen the Porsche wheels but I know on BTCC cars they're splined.
Nut or bolt, the only benefit really is just a faster wheel change. Most manufacturers aren't going to invest in the extra tooling.
Very first my dad picked out. So couldn't say. Second car it took 5 months to find a manual in not shit condition
bore is smooth.
Cool, then you have the tool. Still need a 3/4" impact gun and a source of 700psi air or oxygen, and a huge 3/4 drive torque wrench.
dude its a hand tool (torque multiplier).
the owners manual says not to install them with the impact. removal is ok.
Just looked it up, no wonder they recalled the center locks after people had wheels fly off, what a ghetto solution. Center lock torque value is the last thing I would introduce an unknown variable into.
Aah, I'm guessing those five studs locate the wheel then?
HAHAHAH LOOK AT THIS RETARD WHO THINKS THIS IS HARD
Here you go OP
1st
>get a multimeter
>get some spade connectors (female and male) (10 pairs at least)
>get some 3.5-5mm heatshrink, about 20-25cm will be enough
>pliers and wire cutters (optional: and a 9v battery)
>don't be a retard
2nd
>Take old unit off
>detach wiring harness from back
>set meter to continuity
>start looking for ground by placing one prong of the multimeter to something metallic on the chassis, then use the other one to go through the wires
>once you find a beep, that's your GND
>next you search for a 12V constant singal (battery)
>set meter to DC, hold one prong on ground (chassis or wiring)
>start going through the wiring, once you find a ~12V singal, that's your battery
>now turn the ignition on and start looking for another 12V signal
>once you find one, confirm it is switched 12V remote signal by turning the ignition off
>once confirmed, that is your remote signal
3rd
>time to find your speakers
>set multimeter to continuity
>alternatively use 9V battery
>start mixing and matching wires (usually in a single loom that contains 4 (if 2 speaker car) or 8 (4 speaker car) wires that separate into both sides of the car)
>simply pick a wire, test adjacent wires until you find continuity (or start hearing a pop with the 9V battery)
>them's your speaker wires
>use the battery to listen from which side the pop is coming from
>repeat until all speakers are found
Done
4th
Now you wire the unit up
>take the wiring that came with the new unit and remove the insulation from the end, roughly 3-5mm
>cut the plug from the old wiring, remove insulation (be careful with live 12V, you will burn a fuse)
>look at an instruction on how to crimp a spade connector
>do that with male to all in the new harness
>do that with female to all in old harness
>put heatshrink onto wire (2-3cm lenght)
>connect wires, shrink the insulation on top of exposed connectors
Done. Enjoy your new HU.
Mechanic here, I hate them more. Fuck BMWs, Golf GTIs, and everything else that uses them.
By a fly-by-wire kit
l-lewd
240sx or fbody
Lots of the ones on craigslist have aftermarket cd players, the owners no longer have the tape deck. I want a tape deck
Look for an oem deck on ebay.
...
Don't come here often and don't wanna fill up everything else on such a narrow issue:
I have an '04 CR-V and recently my low-beams have been giving me issues. Sometimes when I turn on the car, they won't function. Ambers still work, hi-beams still work, just low-beams don't. Already tried swapping bulbs, solved the problem for about a day. Tried testing continuity on my switch on the column, works fine, and after plugging the connector back to it the lights worked for another couple days, but tonight when I went to try going out they wouldn't work again.
I was looking into it and have been getting the impression it could either be a bad ground or a relay, anyone have any experience with the issue? Either the location for the low-beam grounds or even the relays would be great, or any help for that matter.
Thanks man, really appreciated