Does Veeky Forums get into car audio?

Used to make more sense, but now the upgraded systems in cars are okay for me. Maybe a mixture of being less of a child and the systems getting significantly better. My Range Rover with the Meridian sounds bretty gud.

I don't know about you, but the only "premium" systems from the factory that are worth a damn are the ones in luxury cars (Mark Levinson, the S-Class Bose system) or the Rockford systems in Mitsu's

I have the Sony system in my Fusion and it sucks because you can tell the amps are holding back the system because the bass doesn't go louder or hold the same level when you turn up the volume, or the clarity of the treble goes out the fucking window

Why can't OEMs make a head unit with frequency controls and not just bass/treble? Sure it'd better than when they just had a "tone" button, but come the fuck on

Car audio you say? I have a 120 dollar pioneer radio hooked to a bass tube straight from the mid 80s. Get on my level.

Other car has a Sony system from the factory, sounds good enough to not have to replace, was gonna add a sub to it but I don't want to waste trunk space

Fellow Ford owner, quit lying to yourself, the Sony system is shit

Yeah, luxury cars.

Mercedes is Bang & Olufsen in the S-class now, it's pretty good. There is a mega system that takes up some trunk space, and then one down from it that doesn't which is what I'd recommend.

Land Rover is using Meridian which sounds very nice. I think the Premium one makes more sense than the highest system in that.

Porsche is Burmeister which sounds good enough also.

But even my 2006 Grand Cherokee with the upgraded system was good enough, I remember wanting some bass but there was some aftermarket Kicker piece you could buy from Mopar that worked if someone really wanted more bottom end.

I think mainly I'm just getting old and don't need my head rattled anymore.

I don't need my head rattled either, but I'd like to be able to hear my music when the windows are down on the highway, the shitty Sony system in my Fusion can't even do that

I'd just want to replace my speakers with Polk speakers and a decent sub with two small amps, the sub being no more than 500W

Ah that's a shame. I'd think Ford would have that figured out.

They don't care, it's an upscale just with their name alone

Mercedes is using Burmester in their current cars.

Lexus is using Mark Levinson, which from what I gather is consistently the best OEM audio in the industry.

What ever happened to Volvo and Dynaudio? Those systems were awesome.

They lost the contract, Dynaudio has been with VW for ages

How do they sound? Ever heard them?

Dynaudio used to be pretty good, not sure what they are like now.

The non-factory systems are still top tier, still all about SQ, Focal tier

Spent about 400 dollars on my system and it sounds great

Hey dog fucker, is that a Doge Shadow?

If it's too loud you're to too old.

With that being said, it better be a really balanced system or I'm not interested in hearing everything rattle.

Is it a what?
It's a ford.

Why don't you carpet it? Regardless of how well you built it exposed plywood, yes even birch, looks shitty. I don't get why you didn't use mdf it's so much cheaper and does the exact same job in this situation. Also why do you have it propped up? That shouldn't be necessary if the box is built well.

The Burmester in the new Panamera sounds pretty nice to be quite honest familia

MDF is more fragile and twice as heavy as plywood, not good fur a car IMO.

>$400
>car is worth $500 at most

Box rise and weight.

MDF is very heavy, weighs down the car. Birch plywood is half the weight(not over exageration). Also, box rise. Birch plywood is stronger and less flexible than MDF. Box rise is when the enclosure flexes too much it will put stress on the woofer or cause overall box internal space to fluctuate.

Elaborate on system. You have my attention!

I currently have a sub in my truck, it is a $60 one from O'Reillys. But it's just floating around in the back seat area.
Any recommendations for where the fuck to put it? I was thinking take the speaker out, and mount it in one of the storage compartments, but they are pretty small and probably won't have the right volume of air.

Wat do?

"box rise"
lmao, if the enclosure flexes the woofer isn't at risk, the basket is strong and rigid, what's at risk is your SQL and SPL.
The amount of volume that would fluctuate would be so small as to be completely irrelevant and not worthy of mention.
Subwoofers aren't that picky about the size of the box.
??
You don't even know what I've done to the car lmao.
the cheapest pioneer head unit with a subwoofer out and bluetooth, infinity kappa component speakers, JBL 2 channel amp for the doors, Eminence LAB-15 4 ohm and some shitty ass 750w rms Dual amp for the sub.

Coworker Gave me pic related for my car. I believe it's a 6th order band pass sub. It pounds and the music quality is awesome.

>if they enclosure flexes your sub isnt at risk.
Not true. Woofers rely on airspace for efficiency. As the cubic feet gets bigger than recommended the woofer forces itself to work harder and because of this causes mechanical stress. Smaller than recommended boxes cause internal vacuum because of woofer internal pressure sky rockets under high power. internal vacuums destroy subwoofers VERY fast, especially in sealed enclosures.

>Subwoofers arent that picky about box size.

What!?!?! Enclosure size to spec is absolutely vital for many reasons!

>Cheapest pioneer headunit with RCA out and bluetooth.
Not too bad. Im sure this is listenable.

>Infinity Kappa components.
Nice! Not only did you seperate the mids from the highs but you also got a good brand.

>JBL 2 channel amp for the doors
Nice again for the doors but what about the other speakers? Atleast you are running an amp on mids and highs though. So many only run that shit if their 20 wpc headunit... Ughh.

>Eminence Lab 15
Best part of the build here. Excellent sq woofer! Hate the sensitivity on it at 88 but this is no doubt sounding great for you. Probably goes into the abyss on lows!

>Dual amp
Ughhh... Its like having a ferrari thats powered by a 3.8 ford v6.

What sub? What amp?

Weight is the dumbest reason not to use it. You are putting a fucking 40lb+ magnet in your trunk.

I'll make sure to check the actual specs when i get home. Still super new to car audio

>Not true. Woofers rely on airspace for efficiency. As the cubic feet gets bigger than recommended the woofer forces itself to work harder and because of this causes mechanical stress. Smaller than recommended boxes cause internal vacuum because of woofer internal pressure sky rockets under high power. internal vacuums destroy subwoofers VERY fast, especially in sealed enclosures.
What forum did you read this off of?
I've custom designed and built hella boxes, this is the biggest load of bullshit I've ever read.

>What!?!?! Enclosure size to spec is absolutely vital for many reasons!
Literally download WinISD and fuck around for 5 minutes and realize how fucking wrong you are.

Lmao your entire post

Ever think that maybe a light box is a good idea because of the 40lb magnet???

Retard.

Do you plan on throwing the speaker box around? I doubt a comparable thickness of mdf is even close to twice as heavy. If you are worried about weight don't put a huge magnet in your trunk. Problem solved. Birch plywood is expensive as fuck in comparison and there are no benefits in this application. That's why no one uses it.

Holy shit. You are going to save maybe 5lbs by using birch. You are Fucking retarded for wanting to spend twice as much for the same result.

>I doubt a comparable thickness of mdf is even close to twice as heavy.
Bruh, I've built boxes out of both and MDF is literally twice as heavy, a sheet of MDF is about 105lbs while a sheet of plywood is 50-60.
It's not that much more expensive, a sheet of MDF is 30 and birch is 50.

Ok, So its ok to put a 15 inch Zv5 into a 1.4 vented cubic foot enclosure, huh? you seem really smart.

This isnt your forte. Give up.

>1.4cu ft
Who said anything about 1.4cu anything?
How much do you think a box is flexing?
You'll gain or loose maybe 0.2% of box volume due to flex of the enclosure.
Subwoofers aren't as sensitive to changes in box volume as you believe, go ahead and fuck around in winisd and model some shit up and find out for yourself.
3cu ft box reduced to 2.5cuft will have very little difference in the resulting performance, 3cu ft reduced to 1cu ft will become an issue.
Why do you think they sell generic speaker boxes, because they still work for whatever speaker you throw in them, it's just not optimal.

>doubting mdf is twice as heavy.
Why do people insist on acting like they know what they are talking about when they clearly dont.

That's about a 40% different in cost you widow licking retard. All thought coon tunes have scrambled your brains.

I too had don't this to my yj
>dat cute ass 4x6
>demand bomb ass 6x9s in boxes on the fenders
Soundbars are for chumps

>40% difference
>20 dollars
If you're that poor why are you even fucking around with car audio?

I say enclosure size is vital... Yoy say im wrong. Therefore, Sundown Zv4 will apparently operate efficiently in a 1.4 cubic foot vented enclosure.

Or are you taking this back now because you realize how stupid your statement was?

only if you mean exhausts and engine tuning. otherwise, no.

I don't have to take shit back, I've already done the experiments to back up my statements.
You can too, but instead you'll just shitpost endlessly.

You are a total retard who thinks they can stuff a 5000 watt 18 into a 1 cubic foot enclosure and get good results.

I never said that, but ok lmao

If you are worried about weight why are you Fucking around with car audio?

Because you can take measures to have less impact on the weight of your car, and you should.
Horrible mentality you have 2bh pham

I said enclosure size is vital for many reasons.

>fuck around with winlsd for 5 minutes and realize how wrong you are.

It is vital yes, but it's not as big of a factor as you believe, being +/- 10% on your enclosure size will have very little effect on the performance of your sub, and flex of the enclosure will be much much much less than 10% of the total volume.
You're actually trying to say the flex of the box, changing the volume of the box, will have an effect on the sound quality, that's completely absurd.
However, the flex of the box will have an effect on sound quality, but not for that reason.
Enclosure resonance is bad, any sound generated that isn't from the speaker or port is distortion, any time the box is vibrating, that's distortion.

> woofer
> amp
> wiring
> capacitor
> extra battery?
> high output alternator?
That is such a small amount of weight compared to what you are adding its completely autistic to be concerned about it.

When you keep weight in mind during the design of the entire system, it's easy to make a difference.
Class D amps often weigh 1/4 of what an equal power class a/b would weigh, the wiring can be copper clad aluminum which is also much less weight.
Capacitors are a meme and when using class D amps efficiency is in the high 80% to low 90%, therefor much less power is consumed, allowing you to to use small gauge wiring which is lighter, allowing you to use the stock alternator, stock battery, all lighter.
Using a high efficiency sub like the LAB15 (which is also a very light sub), allows you to use smaller amps to get the same SPL.
Using plywood instead of MDF halves the weight of the box, the biggest weight reduction you can make in the whole system.
>capacitor
Nice meme tho

> The biggest weight reduction in the system.

An unnecessary and heavy system. If your car is shitty enough that you can tell the difference in acceleration between an mdf and a plywood box maybe you shouldn't spend hundreds or even thousands on a sound system for it.

>you should not be concerned about the weight of your car
lmao

>wedge phone between sun visor and headliner
my jams

Literally wtf is that supposed to be/do?

Not in my Sho. Not sure what you're driving sir/ma'am

So what do you consider loading it down with unnecessary electronics? I would say that's not caring about the weight of your car. How's that corner you backed yourself into?

It does its job

...

I am conscious of the weight of my car and I am conscious of me need for loud music, you can have both with some forethought like mentioned in
Maybe if you installed a system you designed from the ground up instead of just buying a bunch of shit from Best Buy you'd realize you can have both.

The idea is solid but the execution is poor

> Need for loud music.

Fuck off teenager.

Something tells me you're okay with a loud exhaust "if it sound good"

An exhaust weighs little to no more than the original and can, but not in all cases, increase performance. Generally you need a tune and complementary mods to see much difference. If you just have a cat back it's just for noise and that's gay as fuck. I'm glad you could tell I'm a real enthusiast haha.

Craigslist does have a lot of cheap subs so I might pick on up too

ambitious but rubbish

The enclosure is thin but long. The piece of wood stops the woofer from hitting the trunk floor. I have plans for the open area on the block aswell.

You are a moron. Any loudspeaker reproducing content below 13,000Hz is extremely sensitive to enclosure volume. For you to assume that a woofer is not sensitive to enclosure volume speaks wonders about the piss-ant level you are at.

Fuck me.

And box rise, if you want to call the impedance curve that, has nothing to do with the rigidity of the enclosure. A base loudspeaker in an anechoic space has a particular impedance curve with the peak of the impedance occurring at Fs. Once the mechanical (QMS) and electrical (QES) compliance is altered by the acoustic impedance of the enclosure, the electrical impedance is altered and rises by a small value in various parts of the impedance curve.

WinISD is far from accurate. It is far from ideal, and the results are not transposed to the real world. If you model your designs anechoically you should see that WinISD does not effectively model port mach, nor does the expected response match the output. You should know this, but you very much do not.

What are you doing here? You have a Constant Directivity horn with what looks like a 60x40 flare, with another HF device in an 80x80 or 90x90 non-CD horn on-axis above the first. Going out on a limb and assuming that you haven't used a processor to combat their fucked mutual coupling, that's retarded.

We learnt early on (around the EV Manifold era) that stacking multiple HF devices willy-nilly with various waveguides was a bad plan. Did you miss the memo?

Distortion and overtonality are different phenomena and described as such. Lurk moar.

You are an uppity, condescending cunt with little base knowledge. Your playing with a free and basic modelling suite combined with a handful of poorly executed enclosures isn't worth a pinch of shit.

box rise is a fucking meme, get the fuck outta here

WinISD is accurate you dumb fuck, all the subs I've built with it measured very closely to the projected response in winisd, I bet you've never even fucking used the program.
If winisd isn't accurate for you it's probably because you fucked up the units putting in driver data like a pleb.

Both horns are CD, and no it doesn't have a fucking processor, I designed the speaker with a passive crossover for home theater use.
I plan on selling those soon and going 2 way with my JBL 2x15 double bass bins and a SEOS-15 waveguide, that waveguide is fucking epic.

Anything that isn't the intended signal is distortion, literally get rekt.
put in 1khz tone, get out 1khz tone.

Any recommendations for a 5x7? Was thinking about something in the 50W RMS range because I don't really want to deal with running new wires for the speakers.

I've seen more than one car this summer whose trunk lid was vibrating fiercely due to the subwoofer. Maybe the occupants don't notice, but all of us walking on the sidewalk could hear the buzzing of the trunk lid as the car passed by. Definitely uncool. And applying the black stereotype is not always right. These were white kids listening to rap-like staccato words.

Car audio is fucking retarded. Trying to make anything sound good in a metal and glass box is totally pointless.

>t. acoustics engineer

>Have bigass car with a tonne of shit in the boot
>cant fit a sub otherwise it will get rekt by all the tools and shit i have floating around + bad roads
What do? Carfags here suggested a slimline but i want a 10" in the parcel tray or is that a bad idea

I agree, a car is a horrible place sound wise, but I still need phat ass bass to blast my trap shit so ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
I at least measured my system with a measurement mic and REW, set the levels and subwoofer phase, dialed in the HPF and LPF, that's all I'm gonna do, anything else is a waste of time and money.

I don't know what a parvel tray is but you can put a sub in the trunk and take measures to ensure it doesn't get fucked up.

I was thinking of just making my own box enough for a 12" but facing the sub in a different direction so it wont fucking get rekt by all the shit floating around

Gonna have to be one tough box

Do you even source file though?

Not really worth putting a lot of money into a system for MP3 audio (even compressed to 320kbps from FLAC) past a small sub to even out the bottom end.

Also, why would I want to add weight?

Did you measure inside the car after it was all installed? REW is a good little program but I'd have thought a car is too small and too complicated a shape for it to accurately measure.

plywood and duratex should work well desu, maybe some steel corner protectors would be a good idea as well.
MP3V0 or MP3 320 is transparent, you wont be able to tell the difference with audiophile headphones, let alone in a noisey ass car with shitty 100 dollars speakers.

Yes, inside the car with everything installed, the FR outside the car vs inside the car are two separate things lol

Don't be that guy who seriously thinks he can blind A/B high quality compressed and uncompressed audio files.

Brainfart.

Metal sub box? Weight isnt a issue what would it sound like?

>muh weight
>muh boot space

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Metal could work just dampen the inside well and try to make it out of something other than thin ass sheet metal or it'll vibrate like crazy.
I know a guy who makes hifi speakers completely out of metal and they sound amazing, he sells them for tons of money.

Exactly, so why would I put a bunch of money into a high quality setup if it can only sound so good?

Maybe not, but listening to vinyl rip FLAC with a high-quality DAC and audiophile headpohones is definitely a different experience to listening to a normie itunes download in the car.

Oh that sounds mad got any pics? What if i made a metal box and lined the outside with wood?

The sound file is not the limiting factor of a system and it never will be, put your money where the most returns will be had, the speakers.
A transparent amp is easy, a transparent DAC is easy, high quality sound files are easy, killer speakers are not.
Vinyl is full of distortion, on average vinyl has about 2-3% distortion at the null points, also inner groove distortion is a problem, as well as channel crosstalk, surface noise etc etc
I have a couple high dollar turntables and cartridges and I never use them, vinyl is cool but it's not better than digital.
The only time vinyl makes sense is if the vinyl master is different from the CD master and you want both versions of the album.

ye pic related

>lossless compressed audio formats

Total meme, the gold plates cables of the digital audio world.

Cheers mate i think ill go down to bunnings

>I agree, a car is a horrible place sound wise, but I still need phat ass bass to blast my trap shit so ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

I wouldn't say horrible, but "poor" seems more appropriate. I am able to crank it up in my car whereas I can't in the house.

However poor car audio is, my house has a lot of windows. So I can't crank it up as others in the HOA (yeah bite me) can hear the audio outdoors. If it is too loud or the type of music is objectionable, then others in the HOA can complain. They usually don't though because it has to be really loud like rock concert loud.

Other houses can crank it up pretty loud and you can't hardly hear them. I know as I've been in other neighbor's houses. But I opted during the house design phase to put in a LOT of windows. I use "duette" type blind coverings so you can get what I was trying to do with lighting. As a result, the house is brighly lit almost everywhere with fairly shadowless natural light. It cannot be done unless the house was positioned and designed with windows for this. The penalty is that sound leaks out despite the double glazing.

Before you criticize the HOA, the neighborhood is pretty secure. No house with glass walls survives in a normal city neighborhood. It would become a "thrown rock" magnet from vandals who would travel there just for LOLs.

As proof, about half a mile away in a decent but no HOA neighborhood, someone had expensive tempered and laminated glass walls (just like how a storefront has glass walls). Naturally, vandals traveled to his place to continually break his wall down with thrown rocks. Because it was a wall, he had to keep replacing it. Finally he gave up and made an opaque normal wall with normal windows. You can't have nice things without vandals traveling miles to come attack. He needed an HOA and walled-off neighborhood but had none.

So, I am happy with my HOA even though it means I can only crank it up inside my car.

I have HOA issues as well but even when blasting at literally 120db it's not that loud outside, and then you gotta think the neighbors are inside their house which is yet another layer of sound blocking walls it has to travel though.
I guess if your windows are open it's another matter though it'll be loud as fuck outside.
I'm trying to move out of the HOA area right now because I can't work on my cars without getting fined, it's pretty bullshit.