Flip up headlights in winter?

How do you guys deal with these types of lights in the winter? Unlike a Miata for example, there isn't a button that will prop them up. Only way they go up is by turning them on next to the steering wheel. That leaves them ON though, even with the car off and will obviously drain the battery. What do? Don't want to risk them freezing in the winter when I need them.

Pic somewhat related, car is a 90 Celica GT

Install a switch that cuts the power to the headlight motor

Ezpz

Buy a 240, bask in glorious popup switch.

Turn the headlights on.
Unhook the electrical plugs from the motors

Njoi as your headlights are now 24/7 propped up.

>Pic related I did the same thing last winter

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but the lights can still turn on and off right? All this is doing is stopping them from flipping up/down?

Yes of course. That only stops the function of the motors going up and down but still allows the headlights to turn on and off.

What's the issue with them in the winter?

Sounds great, thanks. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Now my only problem is that the motor must be dead, since only one of my lights flips up/down. Both turn on, one just doesn't move

Sounds like a dead headlight motor. That's why mine were propped up in the first place, couldn't be assed to spend $80 for a new headlight motor as one was also dead.

Just prop them up 24/7 and say screw the motors :^)

I haven't driven it in the winter, but the car will likely stay outside and not in a garage in the winter. I would assume that with all the snow and all the motors will freeze and they won't be able to flip up

I thought so. I would prop the faulty one up manually but the knob seems to be stuck. I can turn the other one fine, but not the faulty one. At all... no idea why

The plastic gear probably melted or something.. That's how my headlight motor went, it wouldn't stop regulating and it would keep trying to spin the gear while the headlight was fully down. Ended up shearing off all the teeth on the plastic gear and melting it into the casing.

Makes sense. I'll look into finding a cheap motor but still do the disconnecting thing you did during the winter. Mind posting a pic of what the motor looks like when not connected?

Here you go, couldn't be assed to take the connector out but you get the idea.

Thanks for the picture. Such a simple workaround to the problem yet gets the job done. Thanks again!

No problem! Don't forget to rip some hektik skids this winter.

What's wrong with a cup of warm water?

-10°F and I left my headlights down overnight.
I then used a hair dryer to warm up my engine since the oil viscosity was too thick to turn over.

Forgot pic, gg

Youre a tard. They wont freeze close.
There is a button to hold them up while off

>put lights up
>pull headlight door motor fuses

just did this to my trans am today.


>because those plastic gears

>fbody
>pulls wires

>not the two 15A fuses for l/r door motors in the underhood fusebox

Veeky Forums..

The coldest I've ever been in my old celica was 30 degrees f so I've never had frozen headlight issues. You already had your question answered, but if you open your hood and click your lights, you'll see the little electric motor behind the light, just unclip the power to the motor and that's it. Just as a heads up that car rattles like no other car, vinyl and plastic don't mesh. Also as a warning that car loves to eat distributors. Any other issues you've been having?

>-10F
>oil too thick

wtf were you using? 15w50??

Care to send a picture? The car is in another house right now, which I don't visit frequently. Havent spent much time with the car yet

Not really. If anything the rear wiper doesn't work, but that's not really a big concern of mine

Now that I think of it, something seems to be draining the battery. After a somewhat long time of not using the car the battery dies and I'm always having to jump it. I don't see the car frequently (yet), but I think it may be an issue with the alarm system. I know that's vague but it's the best I've got

wat

I thought every car had a way to pop them up but have them off

even my Probe has that

I would have thought so too. Can't find it on my car though, and I don't see the car frequently so it's not like I can check at the moment

Had a '91 prelude for 12 years, this was never a problem. If it was icy, it took like 15 seconds before getting in the car to break the ice off of the headlights.

10w40 with a 300cca battery
Run 10w30 now tho

There's an issue with grounding since the car is basically 30 years old. Take out your battery and there's a ground right under it, sand it down, clean it up real good. There's also a second ground attached to the starter, sand that down real good. If that doesn't solve your issues then I'm pretty sure that alarm system is fucking your car up

The battery is essentially brand new, bought a new one soon after I got the car in late February. Should that ground still be sanded? But I'll keep the starter in mind

Bruh, that Celica can leave its lights up. Just turn the light switch to the little dot. Boom, lights off, but they are still popped up.

Source: I owned a 90 GT-S

Mah nigga

I tried doing that, but aren't those the orange lights on the front? I don't think I remember them even going up until you go past turning the dash lights on. Then again I haven't seen the car in a month

Yes, they don't go up until you hit the lights, but they don't go down if you leave it at the dot, even though at the dot, all the lights turn off on the car.

The interior lights in mine are always on for some reason, but turn off when the car is off. That might be where you got your idea from

So turn them on the highest point on theach knob, then turn them down to the dot position? I did that once and my battery died... Unless it was something else that killed my battery

That's what I do every time, because popups are life.

There's a chance that you have a drain that is active when it is at the dot position, but were there actually any lights on?

Not that I was aware of. After it killed my battery I never did it again. But I honestly can't remember

I'm not sure what happened then, but honestly you sound pretty cute, we should hang out some time.

This is a guy

And I am a girl

Oh, I wouldn't have thought of that

Shall we?

Sounds tempting

Sorry if I was too forward. I'm a virgin girl in the car scene and I'm constantly torn between being over 9000% flustered and being turned off by every dickhead who talks to me

But you seem nice

Sounds like a genuine comment/feeling. I was just iffy about it with this being Veeky Forums, the anonimty, etc

If you want there could probably be a way to keep talking once the thread dies

this is me let me have sex with your vagina with my weiner

There's a ground right under the battery, lift it up and lift up the plastic thing the battery is on. I'm sure that one is giving you issues.
I had a91 GTS, it was either the parking lights or the lights up, if you put it in between the headlights would turn off but the parking lights still stayed on.

That's sooo weird, putting mine in between the dot and the headlights does that though. Are you absolutely sure you've tried leaving it at the dot (which is one step away from flipping the lights down)?

Sure, what's the best way to chat?

This is a prime example of what I'm talking about.

Fuck off Sam

What is a kettle.

Not sure, Kik maybe?

What would sanding it actually do though? What does a bad ground look like versus a good one that sanding would fix?

Are you stupid or something? The first number is the winter viscosity (w). You just switched to an oil with the same cold viscosity as before but thinner at operating temperature

Also if you're still here, how much harder would it be to sand the ground on the starter? The battery one seems easy from what you said but I may have to sand the starter one if it keeps happening. Wish I had access to the car more frequently

Where's your trip, ka1ash?

kek I caught that too but I thought maybe I was just tired

Rusty buildup, won't allow good ground connection to the body of the car, hence startup issues/battery drain.
Very easy, i just take the bolt if the starter, think of it as a sandwich. I believe its the flywheel bell housing, the ground cable, then the starter ear. When i did that to my car i didn't want to completly take off the starter so i just put the ground back on as if it was a washer lol. I never had an issue.

Makes sense, the engine bay in my car is pretty rusty. Think the car may have flooded at one point since there's a lot of rust. Hopefully thats the issue!