Turbo Help

220hp in a 2000lb car is a lot.

>Shitty ECU that no professional tuner will touch with a 10 foot pole
Whats the ECU?
And why do 'professional tuners' have a problem with it?

It's a Hydra. It's got some neat features, but having a fucking serial port in 201X? I'm just glad mine's on a pretty good tune now and I don't have to use a shitty old laptop with a flaky serial adapter card to futz with it often anymore.

Hydra Nemesis. It's not common, difficult to use, poorly documented, and has stupid DLC shit where you have to pay money to unlock features one at a time.

I'm not really sure what you're >implying by your ``quotation" marks. Are you trying to say that no one dyno tunes cars professionally and that everyone with an aftermarket ECU maps their own fuel and ignition tables themselves?

youtu.be/RBB3xFqBUCU
I think you'll be quite pleased.

I'm mocking the term 'professional tuner' because I don't respect people that charge to tune on the road or chassis dyno and knock out a 'tune' within an afternoon.

How long do you think it takes to tune a car? Do you think a tune that takes 3 days on a dyno is worth $5,000-10,000 more compared to one that takes 2 hours? Do you think a guy that pays a mechanic to install a turbo kit on his car is better off trying to tune it himself than sending it to a guy that does that for a living?

I think it's because they've done hundreds of cars with the same setup and so start with a 95% solution, optimize things, and sends it down the road.

It's also a number you can get pretty easily for half the price.

>How long do you think it takes to tune a car?
Well that depends.
If you're doing a proper tune with:
>cold start calibration
>warm up calibration
>steady state calibration
>transient calibration
>emissions calibration
>air temperature correction calibration
>coolant temperature correct calibration
>anything else that;s configurable
And that's without shit like VVT!
A proper 'tune' will take days or even weeks. OEMs spend hundreds of hours testing and developing their calibrations with all kind of data logging kit measuring pressures, temperatures, emissions, flow rates etc.
No 'professional tuner' can recreate that in an afternoon on a chassis dyno. I bet no speed shop has ever done a cold start calibration and just expect the customer to deal with it.

So your solution is to just say fuck it and just use your basemap, or to take a month of work to tune your car yourself? I don't get it.

Tune my own car, obvs

So you're going to take time off work so you can spend weeks on a rolling road tuning your ECU for operation at various coolant temperatures? I don't think that's a reasonable option for most people.

Nah, just build an engine dyno and test cell and develop it at the weekends.

So professional tuners shouldn't exist because everyone with a modified car should build their own chassis dyno in their garage and spend weeks and weeks not driving their car while they perfect their tune. Got it.

is that an umbrella

Haggard Garage knows all

NO!
Engine dyno
Chassis dyno a shit

And why the fuck would you want to drive your car when you can be tuning the engine on your own engine dyno? You guys can be dumb sometimes.

The finest trolling. Only on Veeky Forums. I love you guys.

The 3 most important things about turboing a miata (or any fuel-injected car really):

>1. The tune (fuel maps) is the most important part of this process. Balance power with reliability and streetability. Datalog often and as conditions (ambient temp / barometric pressure / altitude) change.
>2. Money is everything.
>3. Get the appropriate turbo for your engine and how you actually drive it. A GT3071R in a 1.8 Miata would be overkill as fuck for street driving / occasional drifting**.

**Pic related: That is a VVTI 1.8 Miata with the aforementioned GT30, that huge jump in power after 4200 RPM would be horrific on the street unless you have like 10" sticky tires and an unlimited tire budget. 390 whp @ 7k would be sick in a straight line though.

>that shit power delivery
>still less peak power than an LS
why bother with this shit

it's the fun of building stuff and tinkering, you wouldn't understand.

check out thecarpassionchannel on youtube, he's done two, and almost always responds to comments.

>still less peak power than an LS
Wut?

Pic related, stock LS1 2001 Camaro, also using a chassis dyno.

The GT30 Miata has more hp at most revs, LS1 has significantly more torque except peak. LS1 has MUCH better power delivery across the range but the GT30 Miat would have that "HolyFuck throw-you-into-the-headrest" boost buildup which is fun.

The LS1 would obviously sound nicer. But consider their cost and that you'd have to get a new transmission from the bellhousing to the rear hubs, and an exhaust system, and an oil pan to clear the steering rack and install all of this. I'd go turbo, personally.

>Prices for conversion parts:
flyinmiata.com/miata-performance-parts/v8-conversions.html

whoops, wrong pic.

>rice fags think V8's are 'lazy'

>when its actually laggy unresponsive 4 cyl turbo cars that feel lazy when n/a v8's have amazing response and immediate torque

Youre clueless

I like NA V8s. I also have a NB with a FMII kit that I installed (badly). It has the GT2560R turbo and a decent tune; there's no hesitation. It spools really, really quickly. If I wanted to go whole-hog, I could get a newer GTX or variable-vane unit, but I see no need right now.

this is correct.

>implying the original poster was wrong

That car is a 323 GTX; it has a 1.8L BPT in it. There was a 1.6L B6T was offered in some FWD cars of the same generation, but it's a turbocharged B6F, which doesn't share internals with the Miata's B6ZE-RS.

their 5k kit is very, very much capable of 250 or more whp, possibly up to 300whp but you'll have to start replacing other things on the car then

I doubt they'll have done 100s of tunes of anything.
Anyway, if you start with a shitty tune, you'll end up with a shitty tune.

BEGi AO will give you a complete kit with more power at lower boost pressure for $1000 cheaper (and another $500 cheaper than that if you go with the Chinese turbo).

TSE EFR kit will give you the best spool on the block and as much power as your car can handle for about the same price ($2000 cheaper, but you'll need to source ECU, intercooler, intake plumbing, oil and coolant lines, etc)

MT.net's MK Turbo kit isn't a complete kit, but includes a full 3" turboback exhaust, which you will still need to source with the FMII kit. It's a staggering $3800 cheaper than the FMII, but in addition to everything you need to source for the TSE kit, you also need a wastegate and BOV. It's still easily the best bang for your buck turbo kit on the market, though.

tl;dr: Flyin Miata is never the answer.

I'm going to ask a stupid question in this thread.
My car is twin turbo, how do I tell if the turbos need replaced?

Take off the intake and wiggle the compressor around. If it moves in and out or side to side, the turbo is fucked. Also, check for any metal shavings in your oil. If you find any, figure out where the problem is and fix it, and then replace your turbos and oil cooler.

do you hate your car user?
you should replace turbos every 6 years/60k miles as a matter of course

>his laptop doesn't come with any ports
>"USB-C is all _I_ need; that's why I got a macbook"

I'm going to get into it tomorrow. The car has 130k miles, so I'm just sort of worried about it.

I was going to call you paranoid, then I saw the rings. It's probably fucked.

Kek
Its been really taken care of. I'm the second owner and the original owner was a rich old man that took it to a Audi dealer for maintenance. I have all of the paperwork. It's a surprisingly solid car.

>Kobe Bryant makes turbos now

You don't have to abuse a German car to break it, you just have to operate it outside of a hermetically sealed, temperature- and humidity-controlled cleanroom.

Nice meme

It has 3 USB ports; the problem is that the Hydra Nemesis uses a serial connection using the RS-232 (iirc) format. It's ancient.

Which one do you have on your car? I don't know shit about this and I feel like you're a good source of help.

Not him btw, my first post ITT.

Not a Miata, but I just slapped a turbo on my 240sx, it was pretty easy really, I went full ebay on it because I'm cheap, but it's holding up great, turbo was $130, but my Innovate Wideband o2 gauge and sensor was $155, and worth every penny. The wideband is the only thing that has prevented me from blowing my shit up, also not running a tune, just a FMU with a 8:1 disk, works great, 11.5 AFR while on boost (running 10psi). Big thing if you turbo it yourself, as in not getting a kit, you usually have to custom make a downpipe, a shop asked $300 for them to make mine, I was like fuck that, and bought a welder from harbor freight for $100 and some piping from autozone for $50 and now I have a fresh as fuck downpipe. My turbo set up is the best $750 I've ever spent, shits way to fun.

What about the oil and coolant feed and return lines

For the oil feed/return line I got a kit from ebay for like $40 or something like that, but I saw some at autozone for cheaper, anyway, I just drained the oil out and drilled the hole in the oil pan and cleaned it out with a magnet, then put the oil through it again (x3) until i felt the oil had no metal shavings in it. Then I got a tap from lowes for $10 that was the same size as the fitting from the kit, and put threads, screwed in the oil return fitting into the pan, then covered it in JB weld, but, if you have a welder, its better to weld the oil return fitting into the oil pan, but tapping and JB weld works just as well. For the feed, its easy, there is a feed port where the OEM oil pressure dummy light sensor is, you attach a "tree" onto it, then you can add the feed line to the turbo, put the OEM sensor back on, and if you want, a oil pressure gauge. Also, this turbo doesn't have a coolant lines, its a simple turbo, but it works great. But if your doing this on a Miata, I'm pretty sure you guys have a different way to put the oil feed that's even easier, but I'm not sure.

Meme=idea that spreads quickly
Truth=idea that spreads quickly

Well, I suppose you're right, in a "retard that has no idea what a meme nor truth actually means" kind of way.

How hard us welding for someone who's never done it? All the welding shops in town are run by dumbfuck boomers who have no idea what an o2 sensor is.

The way FM (yeah, yeah, I get the hate but bear with me for a minute) has their kits set up is to install a T-fitting on the port that's on the block for the oil pressure sensor. You put the oil pressure sensor on one end and the oil feed line for the turbo on the branch of the T.

I certainly regret not using just a little sealant on each oil fitting and then some JBWeld or whatever on the pan fitting. My shit seeps everywhere and it's fucking disgusting underneath. I've been too mad and depressed for the past three or four years to do it (about life in general, the car is but another straw), but I'll make it my winter project to clean up and do things properly this time.

Professional tuners should exist but they should be able to either:

1. Only remap the stock ECU fuel map and stop fucking with everything else.

2. Deliver OEM-quality tuning for plug-in replacement ECUs.

Otherwise, fuck off. I hate how the car community is willing to spend thousands and thousands on engine mods and then skimp out on the one thing that really matters the most in a modern car.

Just drill a hole and JBWeld the sensor in. No need for a bung.

None, I spent my turbo budget on my doritos.

If you want the best of the best of the best, get the TSE kit. Borg Warner EFR turbos are second to none.

If you're on a tight budget and you want to go as fast as your dollar will take you, start with the MK Turbo kit. Source the rest of the bits used to save even more money.

The biggest difference between the BEGi kit and the FM kit is that the BEGi AO kit is a thousand dollars cheaper than the FMII kit. BEGi has a reputation for poor documentation and poor customer service, but no one disputes that Corky Bell knows his shit. Hell, I'd recommend reading Maximum Boost regardless of which way you go. You'll probably run into some snags along the way, but ask for help on MT.net when necessary and you'll still come out cheaper overall than FM unless your time is worth $100 an hour.

>JBweld
>on a hot ass exhaust

Also, I would like to be able to remove it if necessary

Meant for

JBWeld is rated for 600F and O2 sensors are rated for 800F. Just put it a little behind the header or downpipe and you'll be fine.