Drag Racing General

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Does anyone here bracket race?

What's your general strategy for picking a dial in? Is sandbagging a horrible crime against humanity?

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>car
1965 ferd F tu fiddy

>time slip
22.9 @ 59 mph

>stories
lost by 13 seconds to a tuned GTR

Kekked

>tfw no racers on Veeky Forums
reeeeeeeeee

of all the meet threads it's the fags at brit/o/ who are going drag racing next month

Well on the brightside your still faster than most cars in the UK.

Fuck it, since the thread is dead I'll just throw in my question here. Hypothetically what '60s block is the best starting point for making 600 hp naturally aspirated? The big blocks of the time all generally weighed almost the same apart from the ship anchor hemi, right? 600 something pounds? I'm thinking Cadillac 472/500 or Ford 460 here. Don't think the 455 Olds or Pontiacs are common or have a lot of aftermarket for that matter.

>Post stories

Floored it, held the steering wheel straight (tricky stuff, wew!) and now I'm a racing driver.

Took my GS430 to Shakespeare County Raceway in Warwickshire, UK. Got 14.9 seconds first run. Great fun, felt fast, saw lots of cool cars. 10/10 would recommend.

This one.

And what '30s hooptyplant would that be?

>dat valve placement
Hey, he said 60s, not 00s American car.

BBC or 460/429 just for sheer size of the aftermarket

I audibly kek'd

>Siamese heads

>Tfw Dusenberg had a sohc 4v/cylinder 8 cylinder engine that made 320hp in 1929 when the flathead Ford v8 that would debut years later could only muster 85hp

This doesn't need to be a general.

A 1916 Sturtevant 555cu in aluminum V8 that's supercharged, making 220hp.

>he thinks you just hold the steering wheel straight
lel
youtube.com/watch?v=LSjhRLjfjcs

You try correcting this then.

youtube.com/watch?v=sR8MoLuSz4k

holy fucking shit

Protip: You can filter generals

>Hypothetically what '60s block is the best starting point for making 600 hp naturally aspirated?
Easiest would be Chevy. Ford is possible too. Hemi's are expensive, Mopar Wedges less so, but still not as good as Ford or GM. Ponchos can be done, but the aftermarket is limited, and Olds are boat anchors. A Caddy 500 lacks the aftermarket too, and it's more a torque monster.
>The big blocks of the time all generally weighed almost the same apart from the ship anchor hemi, right?
Most did weight ~600, with hemi's beign about 700. Weight isn't a concern when picking a big block though - or at least it shouldn't be.

It still takes up space and contributes to the reddiffication of 4chins

Veeky Forums is an internet messageboard, not a historical artefact. Does 4plebs contribute to the reddification, or is that OK cause it lets you read LPG stories?

What else is that space going to be filled with? GTR vs Corvette threads? Ecoboost threads? Alphonse threads?
Look where you are.

So long as there are no enforced usernames or upvoting then it can't possibly be reddit.

I'm thinking every 100 pounds you can save somewhere are split seconds on the timer you don't have to worry about. The lighter the car, the easier it is to overcome inertia.

Question, what category are you hypothetically building this configuration for? Do you understand how bracket racing works?

My stock 400 with kn intake and exhaust is turning 14.1 lol wtf

Full tank of juice, full boot and spare wheel etc I guess. Do you race often?

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>exposed valves
fucking sweet, moar pictures?

Move aside fags for superior Indian racing machine
youtube.com/watch?v=Ave-2uBKedw

Depending on your class and bracket, you might actually have to add weight.

Anyways, if you want a lightweight motor, go get an aluminium LS. When yore done being a pansy, come joing the bigblock club.

Purely hypothetically I was solely thinking about the Gasser classes of Drag Week when I pondered the fitting engine for the class. It doesn't bother with dial-ins and power to weight ratios for classification, you just run for time. They're going low 10s these days so the power output is what I figure you'd need for such a time.

But while we're at it, maybe someone does want to educate me about NHRA classes and what's easy or useful to run in if you're looking for more competition racing in the 10s.

youtube.com/watch?v=eS4MhULkIDY

So with sandbagging, you just try to run alongside the guy in the other lane and try to get a fender on him at the finish line?

Look at either Super Street or Super Sedan (and all their sub catagories), and go from there. Sounds as though they're the categories you'd be interested in.

Yeah I've been taking a quick look at the whole deal earlier and Super Street sounds interesting. Wouldn't even hypothetically want to head for anything under ten seconds not only because of my non-hypothetical, very real inexperience, but also because it just requires too much equipment and mechanical commitment to keep your car streetable. Never heard of Super Sedan though, can you tell me more?

Gasser in Drag Week? Your best bet would just to pick a big block from the car brand you're going with. Find a cheap chassis, that's the big part.

>it just requires too much equipment and mechanical commitment to keep your car streetable
Not really. Idiots with junkyard turbo 5.3's can get their 10's and then go home and do 22MPG on the highway. We live in a golden age where performance is very, very cheap. Unless you build a replica gasser, you can do things very cheaply.

How hard is boosting a 5.3 anyway?

I was considering doing that or a 383 stroker

>How hard is boosting a 5.3 anyway?
As easy as you could get. The stock block needs the rings gapped to 30 thou, and then the shortblock will be fine up to about 15PSI, depenging on setup and boost control. Hotrod Magazine once managed 1300hp @ 27 PSI on a stock (gapped) shortblock.

After that, you'll probably need a good set of valvesprings, for reliability's sake. For easy performance gains, you want a good set of heads and a proper cam (LS6 is a good on a budget).

The rest is as easy as deciding how you want to boost it. Again, the problem is mainly with the rings butting up (hence the gapping), so you'll want to intercool it (which practically rules out positive displacement supercharging). This means you'll need a centrifugal or a turbo - and only one of those can be found at a junkyard. Since you'll be boosting, an E85 would be a good idea, and an additional meth injection setup wouldn't hurt either. Both of these will drop your intake air temperature massively.

A 383 isn't a bad idea on a budget. However, the 5.3's power potential is a lot higher - and when you add nitrous and blow the shortblock (which you eventually will), it's a lot cheaper to replace the 5.3 instead of the 383.

Yes

i like the exposed spark leads, basically get too close, go fuckyourself

There's still time, you can come as well

Never got a good pic of it going around the track, but it was the loudest motherfucker...

It would definitely be a learning experience with the 5.3. The only thing I'd be weary about is the ECU and the fabwork for the exhaust and the turbo.

Is there a shopping list I could look for just to get an idea of what I'm looking at? There's probably something on like LS1Tech I'd imagine right?

I already have a 350 that I could work into a 383 that's the only thing keeping me from committing to the 5.3

How consistent do you think the 5.3 would be for bracket racing on the 1/8th mile? Thanks for all the info btw senpai

>The only thing I'd be weary about is the ECU and the fabwork for the exhaust and the turbo.
ECU can be learned, fabrication may not. Still, even the ugliest booger welds might still work - they just won't be pretty, and after enough heat cycling they might fail, at which point you slap together new ones. If you're unsure about your ECU tuning skills, pay someone else to do it.

LS1 tech and Google are your best friends.

I'd go with the 5.3.

Any combination can be consistent.

>even the ugliest booger welds might still work
This gives me lots of hope

Do you run a car with a 5.3 or do you just know a lot about them?

Probably the biggest limitation of the Gasser class is that it only allows engine families from 1968 or earlier. I don't know if the actual block has to date back to 1968 or only the design family, but in any case there's going to be a lot of stuff that would disqualify. In fact if the actual block has to be that age only the first year of the Cadillac 472 and Ford 460 even qualify in the first place.

I just know a lot about them. Internet research can do a lot.

>Engine family from before 1968
That's it. So a 1969 472 Caddy would be fine. Even aftermarket blocks would be fine, as long as they're true to that last generation. For example, a Mark IV 454 or even 572 is still a gen 2 big block, which means they're good to go. A Vortec would be a no go iirc.

I'd just mail a build list to hotrod beforehand, just to make sure.

It wasnt my first time at the strip to get that time. The first time i ran was 14.8. Second time 14.6. after exhaust and 245 nittos it was 14.3. Kn intake and 275 nittos and im turning 14.1

Always a full tank and 60-80 lbs in the trunk between the full size spare, sub and amp, and tools.

I'm not going mail anything anywhere anytime soon anyway, this is all hypothetical so far and for the foreseeable future.

its the first v8 ever made bitch

Not quite, but probably one of the most powerful ones put into a car of its time.

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