Subaru WRX Thread

>As long as the engine is warmed up before hooning and doesn't get lugged, ringland failure is very uncommon.

"lugged"?

Wait wasn't it you who bought subispeeds paint instead of the dealers?

denial's the first stage of grief m8

I checked the paint code. It was G1U, the same pen that I bought from subiespeed. I'm sure the stealership would've given me the same thing

FUCK IT IS YOU, dude just stop, you have enough autism here to share with everyone, next it will be whole chromosomes, it was deep and you didn't have the dealer fix it, the first thing you should have done.

Similar question, is the MY09 and MY10 better than the 08? Or just get an older one

I was considering the stealership but when I called them a day before the appointment one of the service people informed me that they dont actually have a body shop. They just send it to a body shop down the road. Sounds a bit fishy, no? Also please appreciate my shitposting

Well, considering the place that I take my car to does the same thing, I don't think it's all that fishy, most don't do their own body work, the people they refer to are usually pretty damn good, brought an old Nissan truck with a fucked up bed back to factory level quality.
>top shitposting m80

Trying to accelerate quickly in a high gear from low revs.

Say you're cruisin at 60km/h in 6th. Doing around 2k rpm. If you floor it, you're putting a shit load of pressure on the engine. That's called lugging.

They're dead for a reason.

ah ok, cheers.

I'm like the OP, thinking about a WRX.

>implying dealerships want to hire an entire division and construct a spray booth and get all of the equipment to do body work correctly just to bodywork on one brand

The EJ205 in the WRX doesn't have the ringland issues of the EJ257 in the US STI. It's still a good idea not to do what the other guy was describing but the more common problem for a WRX is spinning a bearing which is hard to prevent outside of being good about routine maintenance and not driving hard when the engine is cold.

well, shit

What's a good price for a seemingly good condition stockish WRX with like ~150,000km?

There's a guy in my area selling a stock 2006 WRX wagon with 180,000km asking $12,000 CAD. I know they hold their value, but it seems like a lot for a ten year old hot hatch.

what's the reason?

OP, have you considered the Saab 9-2x Aero? Same mechanicals as the WRX but they seem to be cheaper on the used market than the comparable WRX by like $3k (at least in US). However, don't have a front end accident, because the front is unique and parts are hard to come by.

Copart. Now

So now what?

where in Canada are you located, I am in Qc and a 2006 wrx in good condition is worth no more than 7-8k...

Is there a strong argument for the STI?

This is annoying, I feel like I want something between the WRX and the STI. Like, I'm not gonna race. I want a fun daily driver. I want AWD, and I feel like I'd be missing out if I passed up the STI's fancy AWD.

But I also don't really want STI branding all over the place, it's weird. I don't know what to do.

take it to a body repair shop, it honestly shouldn't be that much, ask for an estimate.

The only real thing we can compare subis AWD to is the evo and the VW 4motion/quattro

wait for a clean one with service records with higher miles must have timing belt at least

>>Is there a specific model year that is considered the best (all I know is that 2008 is the worst)?

I have an 08 actually. I got it for pretty cheap so it's okay. But usually an 09 or 10 are only a little bit more expensive. Or you can go older and they will be cheaper. To my knowledge the main reason to avoid it is because it's a lot less of a car than 09 and 10 but people still charge the same amount for them.

I don't know anything about Subarus but I know Hawkeye is the best

The STI's fancy AWD system isn't really noticeable outside of the track. You can tune a WRX to have just as much raw power fairly easily.

The STI does have that coolness factor though...

09-10 was revised with stiffer suspension tuning and a larger turbo for more power. The 08's are basically more powerful imprezas. IMO they're great cars still, but the 08's are going to disappoint if you've driven any other MY WRX.

Listen to this guy:

From Wikipedia:

. The rear suspension arms are in aluminum, with further reduction of unsprung weight achieved by using plastic in place of heavier components, bushings unique to the Saab, and the dampers recalibrated. The steering had been made more responsive and exact in the Aero by using the steering rack shared by the STI version of the WRX, which features a faster 15.0:1 steering ratio, more rigidly mounted steering hardware and stiffer chassis bushings.

It's a more refined wrx with some awesome stuff borrowed from the STi. My friend owns one and loves it.

As for me, I have a stage GC and DD a hawkeye. Love them both but the wrx is being a real bitch with a phantom vibration right now.

Depends on the person. If you want an unbiased answer, the upgrade to an STI is justafiable for track use and rallycross where the driver can benefit from all 3 diffs. Also if you plan on tuning the fuck out of it, the STI's gearbox can reliably handle around 450 ish whp. Out of the box, it's a much better choice if you plan on doing more extensive modifications.

The WRX is much more street friendly in that the clutch isn't as finicky about how you engage it and suspension tuning is a tad softer. Tuningwise, you can get them close to the STI's power with an intake, exhaust, and a tune, but the 5 speeds are known to start breaking after the 300whp mark. The 06+ models also have a flatter torque curve if on the stock turbo, which is a lot nicer to deal with around town. You basically get 90% of an STI's handling prowess, which for most people, is plenty.

Evo, pls come back. We miss our JDM frenemy bro.

Love,

The Subaru community.

How much of an STI can I stuff into a WRX?

I'm looking at a 2014 hatch, btw.

I've owned an 04 wrx for a few months, she's given me no problems. I actually just installed a boost gauge today, hopefully I'll get a good oil pressure gauge soon

If you're talking cosmetic parts, most, if not all are interchangeable.

Getting into the drivetrain and suspension is a bit more iffy. Off the top of my head, the engine and tranny should be interchangeable, but suspension parts may not be since the STI uses inverted double wishbones up front and the WRX doesn't.

Subarus are known for having thin ass paint. My 05's fenders are covered in rock chips from hooning it in the dirt.

I'm interested in an 01-03 STI bugeye sedan
I'm wanting to push it to 300-400hp.
is this a stupid idea? ive heard the 6speed in some of the bugeyes is trash...
redpill me on the bugeye, am i better putting money into a later sturdier sti? i dont mind the 04...

they all fit. What's more difficult are the extra bits of bracing/chassis reinforcement and hardened bushings that subaru adds from the factory - theyre a little harder to obtain and install.

The question is by the time you do all of the suspension, brakes, transmission, engine, chassis work, you've spent quite more than just getting an STI in the first place.

where are you from?

Yeah, I'm not interested in trying to literally do a full STI conversion, I'm mostly just thinking drivetrain. I'm being told that the differentials aren't going to make a big difference to me, so maybe the WRX is fine for me as it is.

Most people who modify their WRX will eventually wish they bought an STI in the first place.

australia

The most expensive piece to change is the 6 speed STI transmission (NOT the same as the WRX 6 speed in newer generations - those are still based on the old 5 speed case design).

Figure out your budget in mods and see if that's enough to buy an STI outright.

If not, just be happy with what you have and stop trying to compare it to an STI every chance you get (which is what I've found a lot of new WRX drivers do).

Can't really confirm on those issues, but I do know that the 6 speed transmissions are generally much more robust than the 5 speed regardless. I'm assuming a few early 02's (built in 01) mayyy have had issues because the GD was the first STi that came with a 6 speed tranny, but you could always go with an 03 model if you really want to be safe. I personally think you'll be fine if you go for the 02 STi's though.

>Figure out your budget in mods and see if that's enough to buy an STI outright.

>If not, just be happy with what you have and stop trying to compare it to an STI every chance you get (which is what I've found a lot of new WRX drivers do).

Sounds like fair advice, thanks.

There is a 2014 wrx and a 2013 sti not too far away, I'll try to get a test drive in both and see how I feel. It's gonna be a daily driver and my impression is that the WRX is probably more comfortable for that purpose.

While I'm here, is there anything notably different from the 2013 sti hatch to the 2014 sti hatch? Are they really identical?

Just bought this 2011 this weekend, completely stock, except the wheels, which the dealership changed out for stock wheels off one of the 1000 wrxs they hado on the lot. I definitely need to get a picture on the stock wheels it looks much nicer. I plan on keeping it stock and my daily driver, except it is super quiet so maybe just an exhaust

Are you on the equator

2012-2014's are all identical, save for paint colors. They discontinued the red ones for 2013 and 2014.

Make sure you get a tune for the exhaust. Subaru ECU's tend not to "learn" as well as most other cars.

If you're thinking about getting a 2014 WRX as a DD then you should REALLY consider getting a 2015 or 2016 instead... it's a much better car to drive around daily.

On my phone, will never know why mobile posting likes to rotate pictures
Thanks for the heads up, does it heed to be a dyno tune, or are those access port things enough?

The new clutch is nice, super forgiving.

Why is that? Is it worth losing the hatch?

For what you'll be using your car for, the accessport with a stage 1 map (they're free to download off of cobb) will be adequate. You'll only gain around 10-15 hp/tq, but you'll notice that power delivery is much smoother because your torque band will become much flatter.

If you decide to go stage 2 and beyond, it's better to get a custom dyno tune so you get the most power out of your mods.

Thanks for the advice breh. Any exhaust you'd recommend? Just a MagnaFlow or invidia? I just want to retain the 4 exhaust tips. Also would an oil cooler be a worthwhile mod for extending my engines life?

Anytime bruh. I'd say go for either the Invidia Q300 or Greddy SE. Both give you just the right amount of volume and won't drone on the highway.

You won't see any benefit from using an oil cooler unless you're pushing insane amounts of boost and you regularly track it. A thicker radiator is the most you'll ever need, like one from Koyorad.

how much did you pay / where are you from? i'm curious because i'm in ausland and wondering how much i'm going to get raped

Post your shitboxes

We simply weren't ready for the awe that is the Evo
And we never will be
Praise Evo

pls respond

What makes the 2015/2016 WRXs more desirable DDs than the 2014?

02 has glass tranny. 03 and up you're good

Whats the difference between a normal and a widetrack model? Which one should I look for?

Brothers, ive got a 2015 CVT WRX.

Any tunes that'd be benificial or just off myself?

Be careful on the CVTs, I've heard they can't really go over 300hp reliably. I would wait until your out of warranty to do any modding especially with a CVT

Thanks for the input brother.

Any longevity enhancing mods I could apply?

Is it true that love is what makes a Subaru a Subaru?

All the 5 speeds have the glass reputation and every WRX sold in the US had the slightly larger gears they added in 02. The only change between 02 and 03 was the addition of a valve to try and prevent drop clutch starts.

Change the CVT "fluid" as often as you change the oil in the engine.

you just said it. Get the 2011-14 which has the wider body kit (mainly fenders).

Yes but whats the difference? I've heard the UK standard models are worse than the widetrack ones? But why?

Basically what he said, follow your maintenance intervals closely. I think CVTs are not good for applications in performance cars because of the way that they are. I think they need a few years to really be reliable enough to be applied over DCTs or classic automatics

Before someone tells me CVTs are the most efficient transmissions, no one cares about .5 seconds in a 6 second car

listen to this man, i have a 1996 legacy with no noticeable bubbling in the paint on the rear wheel wells, but i read this dudes comment a while back in another thread and decided to see what was underneath the rubber. a good amount of rust which is accelerated by the fact that the rubber strip has a steel band inside of it to keep shape which starts to rub into the lip. so yeah rip that shit off.

The updated "widetrack" models (identified by the GR/GV chassis codes for hatch and sedan, respectively) was revised in 2011 with stiffer subframe bushings when compared with the 09-10 GH/GE models. The WRX specifically received more extensive revisions in that suspension tuning is stiffer and they switched to pillow ball bushings for the control arms (if I remember correctly).

Thanks, I'm thinking I'll go with the invidia, and avoid the oil cooler, I'll def upgrade the radiator whenever I flush the coolant, the dealership did every for me right after I bought it so I wont have to worry about that for awhile.

I'm from Oregon, here in the pacific northwest subarus do not lose their value, So I paid quite a bit, $22000, 60k miles. No idea how they're valued aus.

Here's another pic i just took with the stock wheels on.

No, it's a natural hatred of Mitsubishi.

Is it worth paying slightly extra for one of those models over a normal WRX STi UK model?

I'd say the 2016 gen (VA) is more DD friendly, and that's more due to interior space and clutch takeup. The 2014 gen (GR/GV) has a heavier stock clutch, but nothing you can't get used to. It really boils down to whether you want the hatch or not.

I personally would get an STI if it's cheaper because you get a lot more car out of the box, and I'd be fiddling with the suspension and driveline anyway. If you want to stay relatively stock and not worry about having an older car where things will need to be replaced, I'd go with the 2011+ WRX's.

Seeing the lack of people bashing on each other in this thread, I'm inclined to believe it.

Vote faggots

strawpoll.me/11070843

strawpoll.me/11070873

>Nearly 15 years old
>320,000km
>"Lady driven commuter/family car" even though its been tuned, lowered, modded, and has one of those shrouds to obscure the license plate
>$5600 Canadian Dollarydoos

wew lad

Yes. You also get wider (8in vs. 7in) wheels stock.

The little changes in bushings and suspension geometry subaru makes add up when you try to replicate them yourself. Not to mention how much better the wider body WRX/STI looks compared to the normal imprezza

will do. thanks famalamadingdong

I am thinking about lifting my wagon as well.

Did you do spacers, forester struts or lift springs?

I am leaning towards king lift springs on revalved 04 STI struts.

Also here is my car stuck on the beach.

combination of all three. Forester struts are longer, just like Outback struts are. They also have longer springs to match. You're not going lift very much with sti struts.

You did forester struts, lift springs and spacers and only got an inch of lift?

No, that was the answer to the general question.

Forester struts/springs alone will raise an imprezza about 2 inches. Just be careful with your CV angle when you do your lift (2-3 SEEM to be OK) as if its too severe it can cause binding.

eh brother

I know that Subaru released the new FB engine in 2010, im wondering when they switched from the EJ to the FB in the WRX?

2015

So basically they've had the same engine since like 04