Smokey shit box

We've had the rolla for almost a year, its slow and boring but it was free

Don't mix different viscosities, the result maybe different than what you intended especially if one is synthetic and the other isn't.

I doubt gear oil would last long enough and properly lubricate the engine.

Run the thickest motor oil you can and if that doesn't work still, dump some of that motor honey or Lucas oil stabilizer in it.

Their both mineral oil but i hear what your saying

I can go and buy thicker motor oil but i dont really want too, i have 15/40 at home and 75/90 gear oil, i have a container of used 10/30 from my wrx and thats it, i might have some oil stabilizer lying around but not too sure

Whats the difference between mixing thick and thin oil and putting a thick additive in?

...

if that dosent work,

go to wal-mart or wherever and buy the cheapest 20w50 engine oil you can get and add some of that motor honey or lucas engine oil additive.

Just for kicks replace the PCV valve, that could be the culprit.

Im in new zealand mate, we dont have wal mart mayne wish we did

That's exactly what I'm saying.

A wrx uses 5w30 oil not 10w30 dude.
>run the thickest oil.
And clog the oil pump and destroy the engine.

Why are you retards telling op to run a heavier weight oil? It literally won't solve anything other than create sludge and clog the sump. Resulting in engine failure.

I use 10/30 in my 20 year old wrx because it runs better with it, ive tried all sorts of oils with the car and felt most satisfied with 10/30, i also use mineral not synthetic oil, the car runs mint and has been running mint for nearly 30k kms on 10/30, when i got i the previous owner was running it on 0/30 full synthetic, it runs better and sounds healthier now

Engines at 310k its tired as it is i just want a temporary fix to a smoke issue, dont care if it dies desu

Are you retarded?

25w60 won't 'clog the sump', it won't even clog the pickup.

Stick a diesel badge on the back, and you are good to go.

Adding a heavier weight oil won't fix smoking. Why don't you tell us where it's smoking so we can help you fix it?
Nigga you seriously pants on head retarded
>car requires 5w30
>put 25w60 in it and it will fix it!
It's past your bed time and your using too much internet time boomer.

No but seriously you're a straight up dumbcunt.

Thicker oil will blow past the seals less, meaning it will burn less oil, making less smoke.

Are you so fucking stupid you think OP is worried about the police noticing there's a hole in the block so it's smoking out of that? Where the fuck do you think the smoke is coming from?

You don't know shit about oil and actually thinking that 5w30 is the correct oil for an old corolla with 300,000kms+ is literally retarded.

Go ahead and keep running 0w20 in your 500,000km commodore though, nigger. I'm sure it'll be fine.

Smokes on idle, smokes under load, basically as soon as you start the car it starts smoking from the exhaust, its really bad too the point where if you were behind me you would need to stop as it smoke screens the road

I still wouldn't run it. Just because it feels better doesn't mean it is. And the previous owner was a dumbass if I had a gc8 wrx I'd put what it needs. I'd run a blend. I don't trust mineral oil.

That's coming from a Subaru mechanic.

It's fucked uleh, if it's burning that much oil it doesn't matter what you put in it, you'll need to stop every 5 minutes to refill it.

Nulon make 40-70, combine that with their engine stop leak (this shit should be available in unzud) and it might last another couple of weeks.

To each their own mate i run higher boost 18-20psi and change my oil every 3-5k kms and its been a great car have only had an issue with the afm crapping out

It went 45kms to work and back and barely changed the dip stick reading, i know its fucked i just want to put a band aid on a slit throat and see how long it will last

>Thicker oil will blow past the seals less, meaning it will burn less oil, making less smoke

causing stress on the oil pump, and sludge. crankshaft cant turn pistons cant move

also i didnt see op mention a hole in the block. you know fuck all about cars. if it had a hole in the block that motor would be toast.

>You don't know shit about oil and actually thinking that 5w30 is the correct oil for an old corolla with 300,000kms+ is literally retarded.

LITERALLY REQUIRED FROM THE FACTORY IS 5W30 HOLY FUCK

>implying you should automatically switch to a heavier weight oil because of high miles.

boomer fucks think this.

>You don't know shit about oil
i changed oil for 3 years in all makes and models. i have changed oil in literally hundreds of corollas. i know what oil they fucking need you dipshit. it is YOU that doesnt know shit

how do i know that?
thinking a heavy weight oil will solve the fucking problem which it wont it will only make it worse.

>Go ahead and keep running 0w20 in your 500,000km commodore though, nigger. I'm sure it'll be fine.

>implying im some aussie or euro cuck that drives anything general motors.

1/10 for making me reply to your dumbass post. i can only imagine what you put into your cars.

what color is the smoke op? it sounds like your motor has lost compression. it wont last with your family driving it m8

I've run plenty of goop in thrashed engines with no additional ill effects. I'd add SOME, not over 20 percent. which should reduce smoking but not be too thick. Engines are crude and remarkably uncaring, but don't get nuts with the gear oil.

Igorance in action:

>Why are you retards telling op to run a heavier weight oil? It literally won't solve anything other than create sludge and clog the sump. Resulting in engine failure.

Bullshit. Oils mix rather well and none of the above "create sludge" (Blowby is a major creator of sludge, and thicker oil reduces blowby.) Go troll somewhere else, like /b/.

Thicker oil doesn't pass worn rings and valve guides as easily as lighter weight oils. That's why additives cut down smoke and buy some time on dying engines.

Smoke isn't a problem but fouling spark plugs is, hence the heavier oil; I had an F150 that smoked so bad when I gunned it you couldn't see behind the truck. Plugs didn't foul so I drove it until I scored another engine.

I've personally used thickeners from STP to Lucas and generic and gear oil, and run mixed weights of oil ( as in "fuck it, clean off the shelf") and NOTHING happened other than reduced smoking and in some cases, less knocking from worn bottom end bearings. Many vehicles over many years, same result.

Your worn engine already has extra clearance. Go for it, but like I said I'd not go over about 20-percent unless you want to experiment on the last day you need the car.

Then fuck it, do it for science.

So after 20years and 175k kms i should still use the oil recomended for a brand new engine? I also work as a mechanic but mainly for heavy diesels like tractors, diggers, rollers etc and i put in what i feel works best, i was always taught that when a motor is old a different oil thickness was good for higher mileage

I'm not the user you replied to, but you're pretty dumb

>all this bullshit
It does not fucking matter if it causes stress on the oil pump, the engine is already fucked.
>sludge
Just fuck off. New thick oil will not cause sludge any more than new thin oil will.
>if it had a hole in the block that motor would be toast
No shit, faggot.
You're the one that asked OP where the smoke could be coming from.
>factory is 5w30
It didn't leave the factory with worn seals and piston rings, retard.

White/grey im not fussed if my bro blows it up, it just sits in my driveway next to my other cars, i havent driven it in over a month but it drives ok i just cant be fucked with an under powered car when ihave 2 much faster cars

fuck off boomer scum you know nothing.
>all this bullshit
>all this truth shit
yeah i asked him where it was coming from, you assumed it was a hole dumbfuck

>It didn't leave the factory with worn seals and piston rings, retard.
im confused. toyota literally requires that. in the owners manual
just stop replying. it isnt the 70s anymore go back to eating your rice pudding

>white grey
blown headgasket
exhaust leak.
no compression op just call the wreckers and have them pick it up.

Yeah, he's a stupid cunt.

He thinks as the engine wears and the internal gaps all get bigger you should continue to run the same thickness oil they spec'd from the factory, ignoring the fact that the thinner oil is now pushing past the new gaps and getting burnt in the cylinders, fucking your spark plugs, cat and allowing more gases to enter the crankcase, and just in general being a fucking bad thing.

It will depend on the engine how much thicker you should go at what point, but my basic rule is to run factory up to 150,000kms, go 1 thicker until 250,000 at which point go 1 thicker and stay on that until/if it starts burning it, at which point rebuild.

>in the owners manual
kek, god you're fucking stupid.

God you're a fucking moron.

Toyota don't require you to run the same grade oil with 300,000kms on the engine you braindead cunt, the internal tolerances with that much wear are much thicker and as such thicker oil should be used.

You are literally the stupidest person in this thread and you're the only one that can see this.

Fuck off until you have a clue what you're talking about.

Thinking fucking 25w60 will 'clog the sump', jesus christ

The oil and water hasnt mixed, i can get more money selling it as is then to a wreckers but thats not my question, the motor is fucked i know i have nearly everything for a rebuild and i was going to buy a cheap motor to reco if this one isnt completely fucked, im just gona go ahead and mix some gear oil and engine oil and do an oil change this weekend, whats the worst that can happen? The engine is already toast it will either reduce smoke, more smoke or completely destroy itself, either outcome i'll be happy cause its not my daily its just a spare car

>white/grey
Nigger, there's a very good reason it's not losing oil when you drive it.

It's burning water, the head gasket is gone and/or the head is warped.

Nulon make some shit that's meant to help clog the gasket, give that a try and hope for the best.

This is what i was taught, thats why my wrx runs 10/30 mineral, i found the mineral made the motor much more quiet and when i change the oil it looks good, i could leave my changes for longer periods but i drive tge car very hard so i change it much more often then what other people do

Its not uaing water though mate, i havent started it in over a month il go crank it over and have a look

There's no real point running straight mineral outside of a rotary or really old school journal turbo (which should all be dead by now), if you're driving it hard i'd go for a 10w40 semi-synth myself and just do 5k changes

That's what i'm running in my soarer with 260,000kms on it and it's happy with it

>not following factory specs
kek, god you're fucking stupid.
>mfw this guy still thinks hes right
>still thinks 25w60 would be a good choice
>thinks i dont have a clue on what im talking about
>original oil pump stressing too hard to pump 25w60

so i guess putting 5w30 in my 300km shitbox is wrong too? cap says 5w30

also the only time you switch grade is when the temp changes outside by then you run 10w30

but you know..owners manuals, and the mater techs and the people who designed the car are all wrong right?

The smoke is grey/blue

Thats what i was using before switching to mineral, it just feels nicer with this car thas why i chose mineral

You sure? Shouldn't be burning oil without a noticeable blue tinge, usually white/grey will be water going through the cylinders. Black would be unburnt fuel.

Unless it's so fucked it's mixing oil and water in the cylinder in small enough amounts for you to not really notice but enough to make smoke. You made sure there isn't any water in the oil?

Don't mix the gear and engine oil man, completely different additives. Just get some engine stop leak and thick oil, see if it helps

I've been wrenching over thirty years and you are correct.

Veeky Forums attracts a lot of silly children and some autists who have never rebuilt an engine but think owners manuals are gospel.

Ah so it is burning oil. Dem rings, yo.

Yeah just get thick oil and some additive, cheaper than gear oil anyway.

You are genuinely retarded and should not be anyway near cars or this board.
Fuck off and come back when you know a damn thing.

>so i guess putting 5w30 in my 300km shitbox is wrong too? cap says 5w30

Your shitbox is not displaying EXCESS WEAR sufficient to cause smoking yet, so no need for changing what you do.

You aren't understanding the difference between "high mileage" and WORN OUT.

One thing is not like the other.

too bad i work at a dealership.
watch out guys i have no clue what im talking about.
>fixed hundreds of cars
>changed thousands of cars oil.
>ase certified
>not a single mess up
yup i dont know shit boomers

boomer this boomer that.

if you've ever looked in a Mercedes benz owners manual, under certain conditions the engine will take literally any engine oil.

pic related

i forgot to mention my car is an acura
toyota a shit.
and how do you know its not smoking? maybe it is maybe it is showing excess wear. but you dont know because i didnt say anything

>german vs toyota
apples to oranges kiddo

>i work at a dealership
And that's all we needed to know.

You don't know a fucking thing.

from a jeep grand Cherokee.

I'm sensing a theme here...

Gear oil is rated differently than motor oil. 75w90 gear oil is like a 10w40 or 15w40 motor oil.

6th gen accords.

woah, totally a theme.

You haven't changed oil which implied it wasn't smoking. Otherwise anyone would have used an additive like STP or Lucas.

What is your fucking problem besides cluelessness? If you love 5W30 run it forever and piss off.

OP asked, I answered, and since I've run gear oil in beaters I told him so.

You "obey the manual" fags are hilarious. How about "understand machining, tolerances, and theory of system operation including lubrication" instead?

>ambient temparature ranges
>literally what i said earlier
your posts are meaningless.

I started it up 10minutes ago and the smoke definately has blue in it but its quite grey/ white to, it lingers for a long time too, smells like burning oil also
Thanks mate i havent been wrenching nearly that long, im not even 30 but was always taught by my dad at a young age that a motor with 100k on it will have different tolerances then a new motor, sorta common sense really
Yea im pretty sure the rings let go but meh like i said car was free so im just playing with it, its just a spare and its the most boring with its banging 2e motor

Nah bro, clearly the manufacturers who are recommending 20,000km oil changes for cars that get redlined constantly in 40 degree summers while sitting outside where it gets so cold you need to scrape the ice off the windshield are the end-all of knowledge and should be trusted at all times.

I mean, why would the people who sell new cars want you to let your engine get worn?

you dense motherfucker.

depending on ambient temp, running 20w50 is perfectly fine. What is your argument? 25w60 is magically too much for the oil pump and shits gonna explode?

05 camry 2AZ btw.

Nah bro, 25w60 will 'clog the sump' and destroy the oil pump and shit.

Just run 0w20 in your 800,000km ex-taxi, it'll be fine

>tfw 0-20 year round in my Datsun L-series
>tfw not worried about summers because $200 eBay aluminum radiator and an electric fan and I've never seen temps budge from 165F once the thermostat opens

Hah it finally comes out.

Of all the mechanics I've ever known dealership techs are the fucking worst.

There never able to think outside the box, can't understand how to work on something if it's not on Mitchell's or in a service manual, and are anal about the stupidest shit.

You fucks wouldn't last a second outside a dealership. I'm a millennial BTW and you are pants on head retarded because I've hut 15w40 diesel engine oil in plenty of shit boxes. It'll change the old pressure but that's about it.

God I hate dealer techs.

>top reasons people hate dealer techs
>high prices for oem parts and labor
>get told something is fucked and customers refuse to acknowledge
>millenials and boomers think they are better than us
>"my 5th cousins twice removed great uncles great great great grandpa was a mechanic in the 1800s! i know what im talking about!
>people think we are dishonest yet we are here to save you money and to lay it to you straight
>people think we dont know shit even if we are certified to repair, replace, or manufacture said parts for said vehicle
>people hate us because they cant agree that they are wrong and we are right.

keep listening to your 75 year old dads and grandpas about repair advice.
and as for millenials keep taking your car to los amigos tire primos for all your servicing needs and watch juan fuck your car up and he doesnt speak a lick of english

your tears are delicious.

You're a delusional retard and you know nothing about cars or their servicing.
You regurgitate shit out of a book and pretend you know what you're talking about, but the first time somebody asked you to do something outside the manual you wouldn't have a fucking clue. All this and you've been doing it for 3 years.

I've been doing it for 6 years and the other guy in this thread calling you a retard has been doing it for 30.

You don't know what you're talking about, and should not be giving advice to anybody, you worthless clown.
Clueless dealer scum like you are the reason the rest of us have so many problems.

Fucking 25w60 clogging them sumps all day, though.

Do you contend heavier lubricant will not reduce smoke? Yes or no, and reasoning.

Support, with evidence, your contention that thicker oil in worn engines will cause engine damage.

...

>says i know nothing even though i have working on cars for 6 years aswell.
>implying shit 30 years ago is the same as now.
>implying a know nothing.
>implying i regurgitate shit out of a book and if i was asked to do something outside of dealer spec i wouldnt know what im talking about

>factory trained and ase means nothing to Veeky Forums
>im clueless
>clueless
>clue
do you know the procedure on how to replace an IMA battery on a hybrid civic boomer?
no?
didnt fucking think so old timer.

why are you so obsessed with age? and what's got you so convinced that you are better for having less experience? you are so obviously ignorant as you are arrogant, it's annoying how you dismiss everything you're clueless about as "boomer". real mechanics don't work at dealerships, but apparently that's something you won't realize until you're in your 50s. leave this board, newfag.

...

Do you contend heavier lubricant will not reduce smoke? Yes or no, and reasoning.

Support, with evidence, your contention that thicker oil in worn engines will cause engine damage.

Still waiting.

I'm not implying, retard, i'm outright stating.

>old timer
It's funny how you assume somebody needs to be old to not be a clueless fuck like you.

There are 16 year old apprentices that can grasp the basic concept of 'need to learn outside of a book', you clearly cannot.

You people don't know a engine really, and I mean, really works, now do you?

It will probably last a couple minutes.

>thicker oil reduces blowbly

Sure thing buddy, sure thing.

Yes. Provided you took good care of it and it doesnt burn oil, yes, you should use the same recommended oil.

Only fucking retards think you need to change oil weight with age or miles.

Lets see you start the engine with that 25w60 on 0Cº. Lets just see.

Says the cunt dumb enough to think the only sign of internal wear is smoke.

You can have worn seals and rings that require thicker oil without an obvious sign like burning oil, m8.

Enjoy your scored journals and bearing. Enjoy clogged surfaces and overall shitty engine lubrication.

>boomer
boomer

>boomer
boomer

>boomer
sexual tyrannosaurs

>remove service plug
remove battery

>boomer
wait, am I projecting?

wont clog anything, it just wont flow

theres a fundamental difference

It might have wear in any other surfaces, if the seals and rings do their job, it doesn't burn oil neither smokes and you don't need to go full on retard and play with oil weights.

Most frequently when you start doing that it's when you start fucking shit up.

There's already smoke coming out of the exhaust uleh, being worried about wear at that point makes about as much sense as worrying about your fingernails when your arm's cut off

And what happens when oil doesnt flow on an engine Mr. Einstein?

> not even discussing the semantics of not flowing = clogging

Oil not getting up to the head isn't the same thing as sludging the bloody pan.

Cars nowadays don't smoke out of their exhausts?

I'm amazed.

A 25w60 at 0Cº won't even leave the pan you shitface.

OP doesn't have the zero degree problem at his location hence irrelevant.

example of something that's clogged

> damage control

Yes, it will.

It'll still get kicked up around the crank and the head will still have flow, albeit fuck all of it.

Oil doesn't solidify at 0c, m8.

example of something that wont flow.

and just to be difficult, 25w60 at ambient 0Cº would flow just fine if the engine was upto operating temperature.

>NZ in august
Depends on which island, he might.

Doesn't matter, though. You're not going to worry about wear on something that's already fucked.