Car Cleaning

I take my car into self-serve stations for convenience, but none of the ones in the area I recently moved to have a spot-free rinse option, like the one at my old home did. I don't need a car-show finish, but I don't want water spots on my car. What are some good tips to drying/detailing my car that doesn't require a million different products that? All car wash guides on the Internet are 50 steps long and ask I spend $200 in supplies. I don't know how good modern Ford paint is, but nothing that will damage it.

Also, car wash general.

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Buy a fuckload of soft, thick microfiber towels off ebay and use them to dry your car. Also, if you wan't a car-show finish, then you should fucking get the million different products, I drive a 20 year old shitbox and I have over 200€ in cleaning and detailing equiptment.

inb4
>spends time, money and energy on old shitbox
Yeah, I'm not going to get a nice car and start practicing detailing on it.

nice shitmobile, lad

Gorgeous shitbox, user

appealing crapclunker, friend

holy shit youre a fuckign faggot

omg you're a steaming pile of eurotrash dogshit!

rev up the soapy wooder

youtube.com/watch?v=CFXfSBR5Q9w

i HEARD THE PRESSURE WASHERS AT THOSE STATIONS ARE BAD AND CAN DAMAGE PAINT

Ty m80s.

Seriously tho guys, get a bunch of soft, thick microfiber towels off ebay (or amazon, whatever you prefer). Also get at least one of those microfiber mitts, I have ordered a bunch more so I can do each wheel with one, they make hands on cleaning so much easier. If you have a pressure-washer, foam cannons for them can be had for pretty cheap, consider one. You can also get claybar off ebay for a couple of bux, I ordered one to test, gonna see how it deals against one from a 28€ kit from local autoparts store.

If you wax, always claybar first, the result will be so much better. Also, if you do polishing, antistatic nanowaxes are the shit, get one with those dimpled pads and go at it, that final finish is the tits + you've just applied a pretty good wax on your car.

If you do debadging, don't bother with hot air guns, just get the badge off, doesn't matter how much adhesive you leave on the paint if you just have a drill and buy one of those stripe removal discs, I prefer the tractor wheel looking ones. Some also call these taffy wheels, because of the smell and color of them. If you want to reattach loose door moldings, this is the perfect tool, then just clean the surface with alcohol or lacquer bensin and use 3M VHB double sided tape to reattach.

I just reattached my passenger side door trims today, took them off with a little help from a fishing line to cut the adhesive that was left, then washed it with a supercleaning gel to get all excess dirt off the adhesive left on the door panel, went at it with the taffy wheel, washed it, claybar'd it, washed it, polished it, finished it, washed it, sealed it, washed off the rest of the excess sealant, rubbed sealant off the trim location with white spirit, put trim back on with fresh VHB. The old tape was shit to get off the trims, would have bought new ones but colormached cost too much :(

I also drive more carefully these days.

My local self-serve car wash has the spot free rinse option, but sometimes I don't get a chance to use it. I should spend a few more dollars for more time when I've got a lot of stuck on bugs and road grime, but typically I just pay $4 for 8 minutes and try to get it done in that time. I never touch the car with any of their brushes, only the pressure washer. Typically I spray it with the soapy hot water spray to get all the dirt and debris off, switch to rinse to blow the soap away, then the spot free rinse to finish it off. If I don't have time to use the spot free rinse, I get as much as I can with the regular rinse before time runs out, then get on the highway. Fortunately the car wash I use is 1/4 mile from the interstate, so I go straight to it and drive as quickly as I can about 1 mile to the exit that goes to my house. If there's low traffic and no obvious cops, I'll punch it to 100 or faster for a moment to really blow as much water off as I can. Sure you may pick up a few bugs again using this method, but it's easier to give the front a quick wipe down when I get home than to use detailing spray and have to work the whole car over to get the water spots off.

I tried this method of drying today

>no spot free rinse
>Canadian Tire didn't have a water blade
>peal out wash as quickly as possible and head for the highway
>it's a construction zone that goes for 2km and has a single lane
>and a guy in front of me is going exactly the speed limit
>find a side road and punch it to 170kph
>but it's too late, already see spots on my windows

Fug

The money you spend on gas is more than you would spend on those microfiber towels from ebay, friendos.

Buying some waterless car wash concentrate so I don't have to leave the garage to wash the car.

>All car wash guides on the Internet are 50 steps long and ask I spend $200 in supplies.

False. Those are elitist posts by professional detailers. You are not a professional detailer. You want a practical useful car wash that does 98% of what a car wash is supposed to do. That last 2% is obtained by the elitist detailers at non-linear significant expense.

What the spot-free rinses are using is deionized water. Ions in the water are caused by minerals such as calcium, sodium, and iron. By using reverse osmosis to deionize the water, that water can then be used as the final spotfree rinse. You don't want to use that calgon for dishes that makes them spotfree in the dishwasher.

You can either get a portable reverse osmosis water supply (expensive) to do your final rinse (low water volume). Or you can use a pump up sprayer (clean of course) and pour in a supermarket gallon of distilled water for 75 cents. It's just 75 cents at my local supermarket as of last week. That gallon should be more than enough to do a spot free final rinse with the thin stream from a pump up sprayer bottle. You don't need much water anyways because your water faucet water did all the real rinsing of the soap anyways.

At 75 cents, you can get many many washes and not approach the cost of the reverse osmosis system which you will have to replace filters anyways at additional expense.

You can also look up the previously archived car cleaning threads. For example:

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15054456/#q15054456

I bought a jelly blade, microfibre set, and wash mitt for the outside. For the inside, I got turtlewax glass & dash with a microfibre glove. Am I doing good?

Towel dry is your only decent option, or highway dry but it'll pick up road dust. Sucks your coin-op washes are all shit.

It's not about the cost of the towels, I have a big package of them in my garage. It's about not wanting to spend 20 minutes wiping the whole car down getting sweaty swamp ass when it's 90 degrees and a billion % humidity.

>tfw haven't washed the shitbox in almost 3 years

>Truck is so rusty I only spray the pollen off of it once a year
>Car has such a shitty spray it can bubble if it air dries

>15 years ago
>working for limo service
>detailing the limo fleet all day every day
>use pic related all day every day to dry big limos
>works like a boss - no water spots
>never seems to wear out
>buy my own
>still have it, still works like a boss

True story. I have the pink one in honor of all the pussy I get. Panties drop when they see my clean ride.

Did I do okay?