What does your car sound like?

>VW Scirocco 1.4TSI
>sounds like an angry water bottle with 0.7bar overpressure

Sounds exaggerated, the 1.8l n/a engine in my previous Lancer sounded appropriate.

It's a zexel pump, jap copy of the bosch VE, so its mechanical and easy to tune. Basically involves, popping the cap off the pump, rotating the diaphragm, and turning the starwheel under the diaphragm. You them file down the plastic washer about 3mm, and add 2 3mm thick m8 washers to the actuator mount.

All in, it more or less removes any lag, increases mid and high end, and it will pull a whole lot better. With the VE pump, you can take it as far as you want, it's easy to work on,

Have a read here, 2.8/2.5 have the same pump.

www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=19465

and google bosch VE pump tuning as the pump was used a lot on cummins engines producing big power.

Stock is 10-11. You might have to blank or do the boost blow off valve mods to stop it venting after 1.0bar, its the valve at the back of the inlet on the 2.8 4m40

Is that the turbo or the twincharger TSI? I've been considering getting the latter as a daily.

>removes any lag, increases mid and high end, and it will pull a whole lot better.
Damn, that almost sounds too good to be true! I might be able to try tuning it myself then, as long as I can get access to the dyno at work.

I should be able to fab up a plug for that blow off valve, too. Is there a safe upper limit for the 4D56s in terms of boost?

1.2 depending if you get the fueling right. fit an egt and watch the temps. don't need a dyno man. Just read up on them, it's all been done before well documented.

I have the turbo variant. A buddy of mine had one with the twincharged engine and they are way faster in the lower rev range while having almost the same fuel consumption. Don't know about reliability of the supercharger though, you might want to look into this aspect. If you aren't too tall (the Scirocco is too small for me with 6'8" / 2.03m) and don't need to haul much stuff the Scirocco is a neat daily. Handles quite stiff and is fun to drive while being comfortable.

I'm on holiday for the next two weeks, I'll have to try it out. Maybe I can even try fabbing myself a new exhaust for the hell of it.

Timing the pump is something I intend to do as well - I've never checked if it's set properly - and I should probably get the injectors checked as well.

I'm planning on getting the Golf with the same engine, or maybe the diesel variant of it. I know the 1.4 twincharged engines have a tendency to grenade if they're not driven properly, which worries me a bit.

good luck with it man, they transform with a little bit of effort and research.

If I'm able to get enough power out of it then I might not even need to pick up a Golf.

Thanks for the advice, too - I've got a couple more questions; would it be worthwhile looking at getting a better intercooler, and is the stock turbo good enough to run at 1.1 to 1.2 bar, or should I get something larger/more efficient?

Sadly I can't help you there, I only know that the turbochargers are pretty likely to kick the bucket somewhere between 100k and 150k km. Also the wastegate tends to make problems by getting stuck (after a part bends I think) and the repair kit is rather expensive with 700€ here in Germany.

a front mount is good if you have fab skills, stock turbo is good for 1.4 before it runs out of puff and blows too hot. TD04-15T is a good upgrade for them, bolt on too. Water/meth injection really helps them and allows you to run more boost/fuel without massive egts.

Pretty much all the stuff under the hood is factory original, aside from the alternator, and mine has done almost 320k km.

Good to know! I've actually just finished taking the engine out of an old Celica that has a water/meth injector system for its carburetted, non-intercooled turbo setup. Looks easy enough to make one.

Sound like an honest old tractor, and accelerates like one too! Turbo keeps it on the boil uphill nicely.
Honestly, there's not much to be "tuned" being all mechanical. A 2.5" from the dump back would be beneficial, but I'm happy with the stock system. And I couldn't disagree more with the working on them bit. They're dead simple and quite accessible.
Presuming yours is a 4M40-t?
This. Although I'm keeping mine bog stock. No reason this thing isn't a half a million mile truck standard.

a very angry bee

Nah, it's the 2.5L 4D56T. Sure, some of the stuff in the engine bay isn't too hard to get at, but doing the alternator was pretty annoying, the timing belt isn't the most pleasant of jobs, and even something simple like the steering rack and arms was a real chore to do.

Having to wiggle the gearbox back and then down with almost zero clearance from the engine just to do the clutch was pretty awful, too.

I can't honestly say I've seen a 4M40 engine in the workshop for the entire 3 years I've worked there, and we get no shortage of 4x4s to service.

>Honestly, there's not much to be "tuned" being all mechanical
From what research I've done, there should be plenty of ways to change the fueling curve, which is the equivalent of doing an ECU remap. A tune's a tune.

Actually, you're right. The alternator was just that little more of a pain in the butt than I felt it should be, and with a water pump replacement coming up, I reckon it'll be a solid afternoon's worth of work. At least with the 4M series diesels they're a chain.
Dropping the gearbox (not mine personally, but another 4M40 2nd gen) wasn't too painful, and although the boxes are bigger with the bigger motor, there's a bit more room in the trans tunnel as the bigger engined 2nd gens had a body lift from the factory.
You can screw more fuel out of the fuel injector pump, but it's nothing really that really requires dyno tuning, as it's a fixed rate, not a "map". I'd suggest simply buying a decent EGT pyro sensor and gauge and going from there.
As the previous user said ITT, a small spacer on the waste gate actuator does the trick in terms of increasing boost. There's plenty of forum documentation on how far to shim the actuator in relation to how much of a boost increase will take effect.

I've already got a boost controller setting it at 13-14 psi, a little under when the manifold BOV goes off.

The gearbox in my NH paj can't be split from the transfer case, and the crossmember between the torsion bar mounts is welded on and gets in the way of the transfer case, so you can't just pull the gearbox back and drop it down, it has to go back and then have the front of it swung down, which might also mean having to tilt the engine to make room.

I'm definitely looking at putting a pre-turbo EGT sensor on it, the last thing I want to do is melt my turbo.

Actually, you're right. Compared to an HZJ Land Cruiser of any description, it is fairly more complex. We did drop the rear of the motor slightly come to think of it.
In fact, the more you bring it up, the more curse words I remember uttering turning a spanner on it.
I just swapped a starter motor on it two weeks ago, and once I even managed to crack the top bolt (a challenge in itself), undoing it required 1/12 of a turn with a combination spanner, flip, further 1/12 turn, repeat 600 times.

I guess unlike yourself in a workshop environment, I have the luxury of not working to a time frame. Which is just as well as I'd never make any money...

LS2 senator. Sounds meh. Sounds awesome under load at WOT but just driving round normally it's dumb and gay

5.0 V8, sounds pretty decent. Then again, I come from a Camry so everything sounds good in comparison.

Low and rumbly.

I have a 5.2 and a 5.0 both manual both double flowmasters and they both sound good but the 5.0 sounds better because carbed, cammed and catless.

22re sounds like it's constantly farting. Or the fan makes it sound like a semi.

A ticking time bomb.

>Can't you hear that boom, badoom, boom, boom, badoom, boom, bass?
>You got that super bass
Boom, badoom, boom, boom, badoom, boom, bass
It's plenty loud. Rattled a picture off my uncles wall awhile back so that must count for something.

As for the exhaust note? It's a 4.3 vortec so I did my best to keep it as quiet as possible.

sounds like
vrrrrRRRRRRRRrrrrrRrrrrRrRblublublublublublu EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE skreeeeeeeeeeeeEEE

vroom

Does it smoke though?

BrubrubrubrubrubrubrubbbwaaaAAAAANNNTshhhhhhh popopop breubrubrubrubrubrub

I don't get any smoke on mine, theres a locked out max fuel delivery screw on the back on the pump and and smoke screw, if you adjust both in very small amounts you can find the point where smoke increases, and back it off to a level that you are happy with. It really is a nice pump to work on.

Here is a good guide to adjustments of the pump, the one thing I will recommend is having something to block off the inlet of the turbo on first start if you are new to tuning a diesel, because if you go was too far, you could end up with diesel runaway where you can't kill the engine and it will destroy itself.

Take it slow, read as much as you can, and do the simple stuff first.

Ford Focus.
It sort of purrs along quietly because the engine's boxed in with insulation. I can sneak up on pigeons at 60MPH and 3k RPM.

forgot link

Bosch VE adjustments

dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

>5.0 Coyote V8
>Flowmaster exhaust
It sounds good desu, so good. I've had a number of people pull up next to me at stop lights or in parking lots and say it sounds really good.

2005 Grand Cherokee 3.7 v6. Sounds like an extremely low quality blender.

Thanks for the links.

I'd heard of shimming the boost gate thing before but never read up on it.

I actually had the pump on mine adjusted over 15 years ago and it smoked too much at low boost to pass inspections.

So I had it re-adjusted and it has been extremely slow ever since, but no smoke.

The smoke screw on top of the pump has been backed off too much if it is slow now, have the tuner rotate the diaphragm to the steeper slope on the fuel pin, and add a little tension to the starwheel by turning it clockwise.

Try it yourself, they are easy to work on, make sure the plastic stop washer is filed down to allow the pin to drop further.

Don't adjust the turbo without adjusting the pump or it will run real lean and the egt's will be screaming, you'll probably crack the head that way.

Mine just makes a whirr sound from the torque convert in 1st and 2nd. Every CV/MGM/TC/Expedition/Explorer/4r70w trans of any year I've been in makes that exact same sound. Otherwise the fan blows loud enough that it just sounds like a giant hair drier. Single pipe sucks.