What kind of tools do you prefer?

I'm a Matco man myself. What brand of tools do you like using? Do you have a preference?

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www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM479669/RCMN-15V261-6661.pdf
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Harbor Freight weekly specials.

Cornwell
We don't have a StrapOn guy anymore. And I can't stop my Mac shit from breaking.

Depends on the tool

hopefully this one
kctoolco.com/wera-8000-b-zyklop-ratchet-3-8-drive-p/wr003550.htm

god i hope it doesnt suck

otherwise armstrong

What kind of 1/4 drive torque wrench do you guys use? I'm about to fold and just buy a Snap On digital because there doesn't seem to be any good midrange ones

I dont. I use a 3/8ths. I rarely need a 1/4, and I get by with a 3/8 when I do.

What are you torqueing anyway?

my 1/4 is a bendy beam one. 0-60 inch pounds
mostly useful for bearing preload
its made by KD but any of them are good

My 3/8 only goes down to 20nm, been having to do some stuff between 5 and 20nm for high voltage cables/batteries

you use a torque wrench on them? well anyway why not a bendy beam?

ebay.com/itm/like/281836170941?

Hybrids?
I'd go with a snappy digital then.

Snap-on is ok, but I'm a firm believer in Matco quality

Most things Sidchrome or Kincrome. Any spanner that can cop a wack with a hammer while trying to crack nut without shattering is a good bet.

This
I am actually going to get a harbor freight / Pittsburgh sticker for my truck

Nice box user. Very nice indeed. Organized. And is that my missing 10mm?

$90 you're nuts

its hard to find a good swivel without the weak handles. even snap on's has this shit

If you're not a mechanic, harbor freight is the place to be.

Also, you should have a Pittsburgh sticker for your truck regardless.

Nice trips.

Snap-on/Matco/Cornwell depending on different factors. A few Craftsman things. Some select Pittsburgh items that have survived the test of time.

What I buy? What is available locally if I'm in a hurry (typically Teng), Biltema if I need simple tools and Würth if I need quality

I buy tools from all brands, most of my shit is crafstman tho since it's cheap and it just werks, also lifetime warranty that you don't have to pull teeth to get them to honor.
Harbor freight is good fur some stuff, their socket sets are nice, earthquake impact gun is nice, polished wrenches are nice, also some of their ratchets are really nice.

Does anybody know the Canadian version of Harbour Freight?

I'm thinking it's Princess Auto, but they're not all that much cheaper than Canadian Tire (if at all). Canadian Tire is stupidly overpriced when not on sale, I'm convinced they put the prices up a week before and a week after a sale just so they can claim more of a discount. They've also drastically reduced their inventory over the last few years, now they're selling groceries and useless shit.

Does Walmart sell tools? Home Depot only sells carpentry power tools. Anybody else?

>on topic of the thread
Mastercraft has never broken on me. The power tools probably wouldn't stand up to heavy abuse, though. Also a fan of Stanley, they're fairly cheap and have decent warranties. PowerFist tools are absolute garbage, but usually cheaper. If it's some niche tool that doesn't see abuse I usually get it at Princess Auto.

The cheap shit at autozone. Because if I break it I just walk in and replace it.

Same goes for my jack which has a 1 year warranty, just walk in once a year and replace it.

you broke your jack?

Nope, I just suck with the hydraulic bit till it doesn't work and then replace it for a new one.

Tell me about your gearwrench ratchet motherfucker.

No one brand has the best tools. Anybody who buys specifically one brand of tools is either an amateur (crapsman) or just fucking stupid (tool truck brands).

Stanley box of socket wrench odds and ends. My dad's had it since he bought his house 30 years ago, and now that he's retired and doesn't wrench I've inherited it.

I just bought a half inch air powered impact driver. It can deliver 800 foot pounds of torque. Just think about that for a second. The torque specifications on axle nuts, probably the highest torqued bolt on a car, is only 110.

Yeah it's pretty sensitive stuff. I know the bendy beams are accurate and last a long time I just find them annoying to use. Probably will end up just getting the SnapOn

It's great, highly recommend

Not a mechanic, i just use mastercraft, if something breaks i just bring it to canadian tire and get a new one.

If it works, I like it.

Walmart sells Stanley.
On par with Pittsburgh/Husky/Craftsman. A pain to warranty because Walmart won't do it, you have to send them to Stanley itself.

I've seen torque specs for axle nuts up to 420 ft/lbs.

bendy beam

Well I hope you're not using the impact driver to torque down. As for removing you may find you need that 800 foot pounds more than you might think if you do any work on chassis or suspension components with large diameter bolts and nuts that are completely rusted out.

check axle nut torque spec/wheel bearing preload. regularly in the 180-220 ft/lbs range

>reverse thread wheel studs
We raec kar now

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Compare it to dual 80 plz.

Impact gun torque ratings are grossly overrated in real world situations. My mac awp050 is rated at "1180" ft lbs but struggles to remove lug nuts torqued to 600 lbs. Never have I ever wished my power tools were less powerful.

snap on, matco, mac, gear wrench. professional tools are good. but most shit i get from harbor freight. some sockets, panel removers, etc. i prefer proffesional ratches because of the teeth and degree between each tooth. HF ratches suck

The pittsburgh pro ratchets are nice for the price. Im quite fond of my HF polymer ratchet. Its really nice and light and gives me a degree of comfort when dealing with electrical components. Its a 72 tooth ratchet.

i used those but they suck in really tight spaces. i tried using them when i did a recall in the mercedes-benz diesel engines where the timing chain tensioner ring has to be replaced. the space is so damn tight. those are better for DIY, weekend warrior, ETC. i'm not bashing on HF cause i love them but they just dont cut it like that compared to the "proffesional" line

www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM479669/RCMN-15V261-6661.pdf

I LOVE doing this recall when i used too work as a mechanic at the dealership. first time was hard but when i found out some tricks it was so easy! hour and half was my fastest time

The handle needs to bend apart in order for the ratchet to be put together.

I have one like that and the handle isn't weak at all

Dont have much if a preferred brand. Whatever I find in my grandpas old tractor shop works for me. Them tools are probably older than my parents but they still have yet to break or fail on me. If its some tool I dont have or need, ill get whatever is decently priced at the time.

no i was more afraid of unwanted flex than it breaking. anyway i hate that design

>Brand cucks

I spend $10 on a ratchet while some cuck spends $150 on a ratchet and muh warranty what if it breaks I'm so smart haha

Fair enough, but the one I have doesn't flex.

Oh God, why does no one organise their tools properly?

because I actually use them.

I use my tools for a living.
I will go through 5-10 Pittsburgh ratchets in a week. Been there tried that.
I haven't broke my Cornwell ratchet in seven years.

where are your offset wrenches? seriously i would rather have this kind

I use Wright for ratchets. Thinnest available, with great chrome. I also dislike the "pear" style on Strap-On and other brands.

Sockets I have an SK set that was pretty complete for the price, with some Armstrong and very old Husky mixed in.

Standard wrenches are shit from Lowe's.

I like the idea of shadowing, but I dont really see it as feasible at this point. My tool inventory is way too fluid. Having a wrench rack is nice too because I can grab the whole rack before rolling under a truck. Do you shadow your sockets too or do you use hansen trays?

>most of my shit is crafstman tho since it's cheap and it just werks, also lifetime warranty that you don't have to pull teeth to get them to honor.

Sears will go out of business in a few more years. So the craftsman warranty will disappear then.

>I will go through 5-10 Pittsburgh ratchets in a week. Been there tried that.
What breaks on the harbor freight pittsburgh tools? Under-engineered parts that are too insubstantial? Or were the parts big enough but the steel was inferior and thus broke with a crystalline-looking fracture?

Also interested in the way the HF wrench fails. Mine seems solid... But I'm gentle when I work... If a nut doesn't bust with ease, I use penetrating oil and wait and apply anti seize upon reassembly. Work on my vehicle is virtually effortless now.

>ebay.com/itm/like/281836170941?

why not use this then

I was just at Harbor Freight, got myself a $10 torque wrench.

I like OP

DRILLDOS

awww yiss
>mfw we both have harbor freight socket organizers

ill post a picture of how organised my mac cart is tomorrow at work if this thread is still alive.

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>Home Depot only sells carpentry power tools.

What kind of shitty Home Depot do you have up there? Home Depots in the US sell all sorts of tools.

>these cucks' shit isn't even built to last

DURALAST op duh, do you want shit built to not last?

Craftsman and above. Harbor freight for cheap stuff like hammers and cheap wrenches for the track box

You do know modern crapsman is no better than horrible freight right?

I prefer to use a mechanic.

How much to you pay your bull to fuck your wife?

Well most of my c man is at least 25 years old that got handed down or from flea markets/garage sales except for some ratcheting wrenches and a torque wrench, so it's fine by me. I built a small block chevy with them and that's the most involved thing I've done with them.

I have neither.

Nice chevy s10/blazer OP

I use this exact kit which I got on amazon for 50 bucks. I'm DIY noob though but it's allowed me to do all the basic shit like brakes, oil, spark plugs, intake manifolds and exhausts, throttle bodies, starters, alternators radiatiors, valve covers and other basic bitch shit. I also have an ammo can with odds and ends I've had to purchase job specific like large torx sockets and swivel joints, wire crimp tools and a large collection clamp. All In all less than 100 dollars.

Canadian tire often has some wicked deals on tools. I picked up a 350 piece stanley set with ratchets/wrenchs/sockets/hex bits and allen keys for $100, regular price was $450 or something like that. its all high quality stuff too, almost on par with my dads ancient mastercraft stuff. Home Depot has husky tools, and theyre pretty decent too.

S-10 thank you

Can't wait til your foam padding gets all disgustingly coated in grease and metal shavings

I use a husky 1/4 inch for my motorcycle. It is the home depot house brand with lifetime warranty. It has a decent range for 75% of motorcycle applications and since it isn't a beam type I can squeeze it in narrow places.

So the house branded tool lines are:

Chicago --> Harbor Freight
Craftsman --> Sears
Husky --> Home Depot
Kobalt --> Lowes
Pittsburgh --> Harbor Freight

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Those small tool kits will get you through like 80% of most regular repair/maintenance jobs that you'll encounter on an average car. The carrying cases they come in are also handy for working on stuff away from your shop / garage.

>3/8 only goes down to 20nm
>nm
nanometers?

My 3/8 sockets go down to 6mm. Anything smaller is really nut driver territory anyway.

I think you might have meant 1/2 drive goes down to 20mm. That sounds about right.

20 newton meters. The discussion is about torque wrenches you dense fuck.

sweet setup i need to set my tools up like that. Is that brake pad guage actuall useful? I only do this as a hobby for friends and family and i wrench on my own stuff. I just eyeball my pads and always mic the rotors.

Hey come on guy, Im not him and I knew it was Newton meters because i work on thermals for the military but relax. Most of us here are weekend warriors and regular ass torque wrenches from O'Reilly autozone and nappa only do like inch/lbs and ft/lbs Spread knowledge jnstead of shitting on the kid

Even the ones from auto parts stores have double markings for both ft/in*lbs and Nm. Most Japanese and European vehicles will have torque specifications in Nm rather than ft/in*lbs.

>Japanese and European cars
There's your problem junior

Like 50% of the cars on the roads in the US are Asian/European and even the big 3 "US manufacturers" are using metric fasteners and specifications more and more in their vehicles.

Bought one of these plastic welders from HF the other day...to repair a cracked plastic case from HF.

I've used it for a couple of hours so far, and it's still working fine. A lot of people were complaining about the tip bending and breaking off, but mine is perfectly straight because I don't push down like a fucking mong.

>half way through replacing ball joints
>shitty tool snaps
>got to get to local shitty tool shop to exchange it before you can continuse
>car on axle stands
>shop shut

What fucking dumb logic.

How about spend a few more dollars and buy something that won't let you down?

Lol newfag detected Autzone tools are duralast, they're built to last.

>20 newton meters
20 Newton-meters, or N-m.

nm is nanometers, so I thought it was about socket size. Anyway low torque values are spec'd in inch-pounds or kgf-cm.

>all these nicely organised tools
Who else here is throw all your 1 type of tool in a drawer gang here

Shocker

heh, I actually did break one of the receiver tube things on a ball joint press that I rented from Auto Zone when I replaced the ball joints on my pickup truck. It had a small crack in it already and when I was trying to press my old ball joint out it just shattered into 3 pieces. I took it back and they swapped the broken part out with one from their other rental press kit.

Yes, I would've been pissed if that happened after hours and I had to wait until the next day but luckily that happened early in the afternoon and they were still open.

Yeah, I guess that's why all the pros use them.

>1/4" drive
>Torque wrench
What? That's what finger tight and hand tight are for. Same reason no one needs a 3/4" torque wrench. Just impact the fucker on, or put a 4 foot breaker bar on it and crank it until it stops turning.