/mg/ Miata/MX5/Roadster General

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>Miata Questions & Answers
>Miata Adventures & Blog Posts
>Miata Pictures & Fun Webms

>Miata buying guide
wiki.miata.net/tiki-index.php?page=Checking Out a Used Miata

>Cup car vs Street car
youtu.be/rmkMlC9Bh6k

Other urls found in this thread:

atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/5772434472.html
hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5747237343.html
clubroadster.net/vb_forum/20-exterior/233897-autokonexion-who-ccp-fastback.html
twitter.com/AnonBabble

First for NA>NB
no popups a SHIT

Why are aftermarket parts so goddamn expensive compared to a Civic?

I mean $400 for a damn short throw?

tfw no turbo

EBAY
B
A
Y

Well you don't need aero when you're hard parking your car you stance fag

ok so you can now get 214 bhp out of a ND naturally aspirated

and to think that /mg/ was shitposting about skyactiv(r) engines being completely untunable because muh compression ratio

Damn, up 50 hp and 30 ft lbs.
NOICE

What good is the extra hp is you can't use it?

benchracing, especially against 124 fanbois

Would a shifter rebuild kit help with the fact that it's hard to shift from neutral to first and 1dt to 2nd? Going from there it's really simple to shift. You can feel a gear hit if you go into the first or 2nd at times

for one, lunched gearboxes
for another, how much did that hp gain cost?

sup

got an NB with a 6 speed
i've heard that if you change the rear end ratio to some other value (i think it was 3.63) it spaces the gears out way more and makes 6th a proper highway overdrive gear...

how would i go about doing this?
how much would a shop charge (assuming i brought them the diff by itself out of the car)

Sounds like synchros are going out. I'd replace the tranny fluid with a thinner one and don't forget to oil your shifter if it's an NA.

Just had this done. The 3.63 costs $700. Good luck getting a used one, everyone is looking and no one is selling. Shop charged $600 to install (I don't live in a cheap area).
It didn't change things as much as I had hoped. Engine still screams at 80mph but driving around town is more relaxed, I don't have to frantically fly through the gears just to hit 40.

really? it's high rpm in 6th gear at 80 still? that's surprising
i assume you put it behind a 6 speed

sup

can this be the general image

Installed the AC on my NA6 and ran it for the first time in 3+years... and the system is out of refrigerant.

Should I fix the leaks and pay some shop a lot to recharge with R12? Or fix the leaks, switch over the compressor oil, and convert it to R134a to do the fill myself?

Yeah I have an msm 6 speed, so revs a little higher than 5 speeds. At 86mph I'm at 4000 rpm. Before the swap 4k rpm would've been like 79.
According to the FM gearing calc I should be going 89 at 4k. I use gps to track my speed so maybe my tach is off? Not sure

>gears are $700, labor is $600
damn nigguh

So what is the difference between old miatas and new miatas? I see a lot of 2008 and higher models being sold for about $10,000 with good mileage on them. Why are these 1995~ models going for much more?

You're gonna spend a lot for R12, I'd probably just work on switching it over to R134a mostly for future-proofing.

test drive one of each, they feel quite different

That's what I'm leaning toward. Just worried I will end up having to buy a newer r134a compressor if the stock r12 one craps out.

Why the fuck do you need a short throw in a miata lol that shit is plenty short. Just rebuild the shifter with new springs and bushings, and get a brass bushing for the main one. 5X racing sells a kit, I love it

I thought they fixed this

I don't understand how this is possible, honestly. It must be calculated crank hp

I'd probably do it for good measure. Sounds like your problem could be internal or not

yessss

You can always buy a second hand compressor from the junkyard or a part out

Yeah I was OK with $600 labor cause it's a lot of work, but $700 for a ring gear is nuts. I spent months looking for an old Mazda 3 with the 3.63 which will slip right in, but I think they're picked through pretty well. It was only the 80's Mazda 3s.

They have 3.63s in Australia but I couldn't find any for sale. Finally just pulled the trigger on a new one. My Miata has about 220hp so I really needed to change the ratios.

nigga i mean from an objective point of view...factually how are the generations different? if at all? i don't know shit about miatas

>a miata-tan
>miatas are supposed to be a take on the classic british roadster
>the tan is some weird theater ninja thing
?????

na and nb aren't that different, nc is very different
try driving one of each and see which you like

miata.net/faq

There are a lot of differences man

NA and NB are pretty similar and share a lot of parts. 1.6 or 1.8. the lightest gens
NC is based on the RX8, "the heavy one" also the most powerful, 2.0 L
ND is the new one with 1.5 for Japs and euros, 2.0 for usa

Yeah I don't even know. Here's another

...

i really don't get it man

...

what are some inexpensive BBKs for the miata?
as in, big brakes you can find from junked cars on ebay that fit the miata with maybe an adapter bracket

I would like it if it werent purple. What other colors does it do?

>Not embracing early 2000s rice culture

NB sport brakes

It has red, green, blue, and any combination of the 3.

Bump

>It must be calculated crank hp
it is

>NA and NB are pretty similar and share a lot of parts. 1.6 or 1.8. the lightest gens
isn't the ND lighter than the NB?

So I am guessing people want the lightest and fastest one, correct? And that sounds like it would be ND USA?

Take it out and put the roof down

Are synchros something that's replaced on a clutch or a transmission? Idk much about transmission stuff

I don't either. They're in the transmision. The parts themselves shouldn't be very expensive but labor will be. Probably have to take the transmission out and tear it open. However, bad synchros won't stop you from being able to drive the car, it's just easier and smoother with good synchros.
Btw if it is easier to shift when the car and tranny are warm then it's probably a synchro issue, and putting a lighter trans fluid in will help.
If it's harder to shift when it's warm or no difference it could be a bad slave or master clutch cylinder. If they leak just a tiny bit, air gets in the line and doesn't allow the clutch to travel as much as it should (even if your clutch pedal is all the way down) which makes shifting difficult. I've had this happen eventually on almost every manual car I've owned. It's generally not a difficult fix.

I cleaned out my maf today, and when I plugged it back in alongside the clean rice air intake, shit started for a second before dying. it visually looked fine with both the lines inside it not touching each other and clear. what else can I check at this point?

atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/5772434472.html

good deal?

didn't the M edition usually come with different wheels? I'm pretty sure i've seen the green ones with their own 14 inch bbs wheels

You can't be serious

BRG was a special edition before the first M.

You're thinking of the 97 M edition fampai

check is printed
i'm meeting the seller tomorrow at 3 to pick up the car

hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5747237343.html

i'm paying 4 grand which is probably steep considering all the cosmetic issues it has but fuck....norustfeel.jpg

>paying with a check
>craigslist

First Miata? I thought you already owned one

yes first, i've been flirting with the idea for like a year and now i'm actually going to get one finally

How did you clean it, put it in the dishwasher?

4k would be great if not for the cosmetic stuff. Hope you can live with it because it's very expensive to fix. The seat can be replaced fairly cheaply though.
If that's the best one you've seen in a while and mechanics are good, go for it. Sounds like you already made up your mind.

>for sale
>clean inside and out
>recently flushed fluids
>cleaned title
>minor water damage
>accepting all reasonable offers

That's like museum quality.


>frame rails are still banged up though

I used the CRC MAF cleaner and sprayed it on the thing about ten times. I let it dry up and fitted it all back in.

At this point, I'm starting to think I might have to replace my Ignition coil pack, Camshaft Position Sensor, and sparkplug+wires. fuck my shit up senpai

>Ignition coil pack, Camshaft Position Sensor, and sparkplug+wires
Because of the MAF cleaning or because it was already bad? Was it runnig OK before?

it was already running awful. for the past month, i've been would not start after parking it from a drive and normally wouldn't start until the next day. But now the car isn't starting at all. all I get is a crank/no start.I took advice from a friend and though maybe it was the MAF that was doing this shit. Before I bought the car, the previous owner didn't change shit to it in 4 years of ownership despite only putting 20k miles(when I changed the brake pads, they was literally nothing there aside from the metal plate.) I'm just desperately trying to get this fixed at this point, and I don't want to take it to a fucking mechanic either so those fuckers can't do another joyride with my car.

BRRRUM DUM DUM
DUM DADUMDADA DUM

...

Just given that it's progressively worse like that I think you're on the right track. Pull a spark plug and see if you're getting spark. Also maybe try some of that throttle body cleaner as starting fluid and see if it runs or sputters with it. That will help seperate a fuel issue from a spark issue.

The most I can pull out is a spark plug wire since I don't have the spark plug socket at the moment, and I'm not gonna risk it with a regular 5/8 socket. although, I will try out that starting fluid method.

If you're pulling a wire I don't know how you can test it without a multimeter, so hopefully you have one of those.

Spark plug sockets can be got for a few dollars. Yeah don't risk a 5/8ths.

the cosmetics is almost entirely paint scuffs and very minor dents, easily fixed, but i'll see if there's any legit paint loss once i start working on it with rubbing compound

trunks are cheap
driver seats are cheap, in fact if i can just get the leather covering i can swap that out
steering wheels are cheap
shift knobs are cheap

it'll need a shifter rebuild and a timing belt job but that's cheap too

i'm used to my 540i where everything is twice as expensive to fix parts wise

wait nevermind, looks like mazda sells the seats as top and bottom halves with non-removable leather

So I was thinking of a cheap suspension upgrade, and that eventually turned into:
>25mm spacers
>ARP wheel studs
>Offset bushings
>Coilover perches for my MSM suspension with the Bilsteins for easy and cheap height adjustment
>Federal 595RS-R
>Wheels undecided but maybe Advanti Storm's
Fuck me, so this is what actually spending money on a car is like

>Leather
Why would you do that? It's worse than textiles in every possible way.

>25mm spacers
Are you buying >+50 offset wheels or something? That's not going to come close to fitting with a properly sized wheel without flares.

depending on how things go i might sell the leather seats and opt for a pair of black cloth NB seats instead

I plan on getting fender flares and a couple degrees of camber

Or if I was attempting this how big of spacers should I get?

Kys
Better for everyone

Why do you want to ruin your car, user? Why not start with a cheaper and better looking car that already can't turn, like a Tiburon or FWD Eclipse?

clubroadster.net/vb_forum/20-exterior/233897-autokonexion-who-ccp-fastback.html

reminder that a proper fastback is a thing now, and not made by the fucks at autokonexion

it's $2000, has its own mounting brackets that sit where the stock ones go. comes with lexan for windows, has a hinging trunk, and doesn't require cutting your body up

the NB one is still in development but the NA is available right now

Wish that """C-Pillar""" wasn't so thick. I love the visibility I get from the OEM hardtop, but I love the look of an NA fastback.

...

...

why are there always only shitty unpainted pics of these things whenever someone makes one?

And it's always on some dusty as fuck car with mispainted panels and shitty looking flares.

...

...

Waiting on this Jetstream kit

because that's probably like prototype 50 after tons of test fittings and re-formings and stuff, and its just like "alright this one's good"

also, they're still sort of developing it but more slowly, so they haven't had time to make a proper painted one on a car to show it off

>tfw will be making miata liftback molded from an S30 at some point in the nearish future
>tfw other projects to work on first
>tfw not sure if I should advance the priority with all the turmoil in the Miata aftermarket hardtop market in the last year
>tfw no idea how big the market for $1500-3000 tops even is
I mean, I see pictures from time to time, and I know everyone loves fastback Miatas, but how many people actually shell out for them?

Seeing as the Miata community is rather large you can always find a buyer with the cash to buy an expensive top.

Current AK fastbacks sell quick when they are posted for sale.

if it's a good quality built top that fits well, doesn't rattle or squeak much, looks good, and can be made to order on a reasonable timescale, there's probably a decent sized market. Not big, but people will be aware of it and start saving up for it

also, group buys

I'm sure I can sell one, but can I sell 20? 50?

Probably more expensive than an FB

For sure, as long as you keep customers happy and provide a quality product.

AK pissed off a lot of customers because of crappy communication and long lead times.

I only sell products after they're made. I learned long ago making armor that commission work is shit and people's ideas never look as good to them in person as they did in their mind. So now I only take suggestions as long as it's something I could sell to anyone, and don't accept payment until it's complete.

Does anybody here own an ND

That's the best way to do it instead of selling a first run and learning from customers what goes wrong.

if you could have any hard top color to go on a black miata....except for black...what color would you pick?

red top on black car?
white top on black car?
get any color top and plastidip it black?

i think white on black looks kinda cool

It's also why I'm hesitant to significant R&D time and money into a potentially saturated market. I don't currently have the financial security to absorb any sort of loss on this, which is why I was planning to start with smaller, higher volume parts. I don't want to miss out on the opportunity offered by AK folding, but I'm not sure how well I can compete with Warhorse, CCP, and whoever else brings a product to market before me.

Put a black top on a not black car. It makes it look lower and sleeker. Doing it the other way round just makes you look too poor to have it painted.

Finding something to improve the Miata in any way and hope nobody in the last 26 years has done it is quite a challenge. GarageStar did have a success with those delrin door bushings that people praise and now other companies are following their lead.

People love interior cosmetic shit, maybe you can start there?

test

here's a question, nardi torino or momo prototipo?
or something else altogether?

eBay Prototipo clone. $20, looks the same, thick construction doesn't flop around like Torino clones.