QTDDTOT: Veeky Forums Newfag edition

Don't know if you guys have these here, and I didn't see anything like it in the catalog

I have an old '88 toyota hilux manual 4-speed with 271,000 miles on it. Runs fucking great, no problems at all besides that the A/C doesn't work.
Now this is probably my inner retard and inbred talking here, but I want to swap the engine for something powerful. I was thinking of just dropping a V6 of some kind into it, but someone suggested I should put an LS1 into it and make that fucker fly.
Problem is I have absolutely no mechanical experience with cars and mostly work on guns and other shit. How difficult would it be to do this myself in my garage and what tools would I need? I know the hilux is pretty mechanically simple and a lot of you are going to shit on me for wanting to fuck with a perfectly good truck but I think the idea of some old piece of shit with a v8 in it is my perfect brand of retardation.

Other urls found in this thread:

glencoyne.co.uk/buyguide.htm
seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ctd/5753958839.html
lceperformance.com/
myredditvideos.com/
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

LS motors are overrated. You can change a 307 to fuel injected and keep it simple and push way more power. Plus they're eaiser to find. LS engines are terrible and overhyped.

4.3 Vortec goes in real nice, lots of aftermarket and community support for these swaps.

Okay lads, I'm confused. How much does horsepower effect speed?

My Dad owns a 2009 Corvette zo6 with a custom chip and a supercharger kit pushing 780ish horses.

He recently raced a Mazda RX-7 that was riced out pushing 1000+ horses for a grand.

He won by a good bit. But shouldn't he have lost?

I'm the OP and I know basically nothing about any of this but here's my guess
his corvette might be lighter and therefore even though it had less horsepower it's easier to get to sanic speeds for the weaker engine

this is actually why i want to do this shit to my truck, because it's super fucking light(my skeletor manlet friend could push it around a parking lot easily)

Veeky Forums alternative just with positive vibe. Do you know anything?

I want to read and talk whatever about cars. Here I read BRZ is bad (the car people waited for), AT is gay (what is the choice/taste?) and such other troll/shit things.

noriyaro's youtube channel is the reference for what I call good, positive.

What's a better DD? A 2007+ lancer or a 95ish impreza?

Hypothetical: The bombs drop tomorrow, you survive, a week later wander out to a very well stocked and preserved junkyard, what car do you mad max-itize for your future wasteland travels?

What mods?

I ordered some rear mud flaps for my MR2 AW11, does anyone know what size bolts they use? Didn't come with any.

if its 4wd, don't fuck with it, or just get a newer 22re to bolt in (assuming your pickup has the 20r/22r). they can be built to make decent power and still be somewhat reliable.

so, suppose I got a early 90s dodge dakota. 318 auto 4x4. how difficult would it be to swap to a manual? I think the NV3550 is the tranny I'd need, right? only thing I'm not sure about is if the auto and manual are different lengths.

Mazda3
Lincoln Continental, no mods just cruise around stylin on people with whitewalls

I live in South America and my dad is about to retire. He's going to sell his shitbox so we want to get something that he can take on the road for long trips. I've been thinking of D or E segment sedans up to 1999, because road tax over that year for that kind of car tends to get excessive and he'd be forced to get a much shittier if newer car. If it's up to 1991 the road tax is fixed and it gets really cheap. I've been looking at pic related, 1987, diesel for that fuel economy, Mercedes for that comfort, sound proofing, cruising performance and safety. I've discarded BMW 5 series due to less comfort and mainly because of extremely expensive maintenance. Mercedes from 1992 onwards are discarded due to expensive road tax and biodegradable wiring harnesses. What else should I look out for? I've heard the very early W124s have problems with gaskets or something like that, also that A/C is a problem and costly to replace the gas because they have to remove the whole dashboard.

>other cars I've considered:
>Toyota Corona T190, up to 1995
>Chevrolet Omega (rebadged Opel)
>Peugeot 405, any year
>Citroën Xantia, any year
>Nissan Maxima, but I have to find out how much tax it pays

Any car suggestions that are good for long trips?
>can't be American full size sedans (they're barely existent here)

Does anyone with a cobalt have a roof rack? I want one but idk which to get or brand or anything and dont want to spend 200 bucks

There's nothing as expensive as a cheap cobalt roof rack

I have what i feel is a very stupid question. I feel like i'm missing something obvious but i'm not sure what.

Today i tried doing my first leak down test on my '88 aw11 mr2. The problem is that the engine can't seem to stay at top dead center for the cylinder i want to test. I follow this method to determine tdc.

>put light piece of paper on spark plug hole
>turn crankshaft until paper is moved by air
>insert screwdriver
>stop turning when screwdriver is no longer rising

When it finally comes time to test the cylinder, the engine seems to turn over with the air being pushed in and then no pressure is held so I can't get a reading. This was trying it in neutral so i tried it in first with the parking brake on. When in gear i cant seem to turn the crankshaft at all. I'll use a socket to turn it about 150 degrees but it'll just turn itself back once i can turn no more. The car will actually move a bit when i'm doing this. Lastly I tried setting TDC in neutral and then putting it in gear before adding air pressure. Still turned over; was no longer in TDC when pressure was added. Air came out from throttle body yet again. To clarify I am always getting a pressure reading of about 15 psi and there is always an obvious leak from the throttle body.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give as much info as necessary. Any suggestions?

here

I can't help you with your problem but could you do me a favor and see what size your mud flap bolts are?

consider the rx-7 may have had a shitty driver

Went outside with a flashlight.

They're screws m8.

So just your average screw should work with a washer on the other side?

OP here, I'd just stick with my hilux. Fucker will never die with all the stock shit in it.

it's a 2wd basic bitch model, i mean it's literally the bare minimum package you could buy back in the day with a 22r carborated engine.

It would depend on the thread i suppose. You want me to take it out and snap a picture of it later?

Don't take anything French (?) but at least Citroens (I'm only sure about this one) that isn't brand new because once they discontinue the model, same goes with parts soon. Xantia is a great car but what if something as necessary as door latches fail and you can't buy one?

Corona, known as Carina E where I live is just as bulletproof as that Merc, it just has far less comfy features. I'd keep these two on top.

First Omega is on par with Corona, but definitely less reliable and rusts easier, second gen can be probably the comfiest of all those cars.

You should be able to find replacement for whatever part you need for Merc, Toyota and Chevy. I don't know shit about 405 or a Maxima. Take whatever is in acceptable condition, you'd be probably 27th owner already anyway. Good luck bro!

Thanks m8!
About the Omega, the only one that ever came here is the 1st gen. Also thanks for the heads up on PSA group, I thought there wasn't a problem with spares.

I thought the same unless my friend, owner of two Xsaras and a Xantia told me. That's sad because you can't get this comfy for a dollar unless you live in US (have access to landbarges).
So whetever car you are left with (as a choice), you can probably have air conditioning and automatic transmission in all of them, at least.

Oh, around here we consider autotragic to be a minus :P
I'll research about the PSA thing just in case, as they used to make a lot of cars in Argentina so maybe it isn't that bad, but I have a feeling you're sadly right.

Shameful bump for answers.

>Females literally incapable of standing straight

Any models that are better suited for winter or are winter tires the only necessity for winter driving?

more like females in charge of photoshop.

Nah, I just took a spin down to wally world and picked up some generic screwbolts, washers, and nuts and she fits like a champ. Thanks tho.

AT not being a plus in a comfymobile? That's something new for me, but it's about preferences of course.

How hard is it to change the motor mounts? Would I be able to do it on my own?

I've got an 87 Camaro with 5.0

If you're going to buy an older car, Swedish cars. They won't give you start-up problems in winter.

There's not a lot of bumper-to-bumper traffic here and I bet my old man would feel a bit emasculated if he had to drive an automatic. Plus automatics tend to have worse fuel economy and they are more expensive to fix in case anything goes wrong with the tranny.

Probably a stupid question but
In an automatic, if you're going to drop into 1st or 2nd gear, do you need to step on the bake? Or can you just drop from drive to 2 if you're going up a hill or something?

Depends on the revs, check your manual (lel).
You'll probably be fine shifting to 2nd (in a 3-speed car) provided you aren't going too fast, but you really shouldn't ever need to downshift into first.

bump

Mud flaps guy here again. Do you have a MK1a or MK1b? I have a MK1a which is supposed to have mudflaps on the front, do you know if they are the same as the rear mudflaps? Would rear mud flaps fit on the front?

Exhaust came like this.
Do I ask for another one?

Hi there, user from shithole named kazakstan here.
Is it worth to buy 1994 land rover defender 110?
What kind of engine is there(1994 diesel is it ford transit?)
It will be my only and every day car. Wanted to buy japanese nano-bus (for 7-8 persons)or daewoo damas, but couldnt find one in good shape.
Looking at defender with enthusiasm.
Owner says his old father drove it and has not been in heavy offroadin or rock crawling.
If its ford transport engine is it easy to find spare parts without buyin it from elswhere(internet)???
Pic

Something to add.
Sometimes in winter it gets -30,35 here, outside of the town it gets even colder with severe winds and 2 meter snow.
Will it work at that situayions if I will install diesel filter and tank heater?

I don't know much about defenders, but I know 2 things:
1) they can last a lifetime if taken care of well
2) the body doesn't tell you the real condition of the vehicle. Body is aluminum which hardly rusts if at all, but frame is steel.

Take a look at this:
glencoyne.co.uk/buyguide.htm

You can do it on your own but will need to support the engine to do it safely.

So I want to switch out my 7.5 ford rear end for the 8.8. I have everything I need and I can get it to fit, but it has 200,000 miles on it, so should overbuild it? I know one side needs a new bearing on the end, but that all that's really wrong, I haven't check anything like backlash, but the pinion could use another shim or two. The question is should I do a full rebuild, or just change the one bearing and call it a day?

>no car
>want to learn to drive manual
>currently walk to work
How dumb would it be to just pick up an old toyota or something off craigslist for about a thousand bucks and just drive it til it falls apart?
I'm about a half hour walk from work and can borrow a roommate's car whenever I need to go any further than that, so if I have car trouble or the thing just dies I won't be in a bad spot without my own car, and if and when I go back to college my parents are willing to help me get something decent.

You can have 1million horsepower if you cant put it to the ground its not much good to you.

The vette just puts it down better than the mazda in this scenario.

Not worth the hassel. Will have no effect on the performance.

There's torque too, maybe the 'vette has more available power at low rpm.

What's a good cheap OBDII I should buy?

I've been looking for a first car for a few weeks, and after getting screwed out of an AW11 MR2 I found a Foxbody Mustang for sale. The ad lists a few problems, but the two that jumped out to me were that the "clutch push bearing" squeaks, and the back hatch needs work.

So what could be the problem with the clutch? And are the hatches a common problem on these cars?
[spoiler]The only two cars I've driven are a Jetta TDI and a Town & Country[/spoiler]

I'm looking at STIs and this dealership is asking $5k under blue book.

The deal is enticing. What could be wrong with it that they are asking so little?

seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ctd/5753958839.html

>it's a 2wd basic bitch model

Prerunners exist, and aren't always 4x4. in fact, most start out as basic bitch models since they lack the unnecessary bullshit.

seriously, don't break what isn't broken, ESPECIALLY if it isn't rusted to shit.

>"clutch push bearing"

he's either talking about the throw-out bearing (I've never heard one make noise) or the clutch pedal itself is just squeaky. my s10 had a squeaky pedal. shit will drive you batshit after a while.

so I'm in need of a new truck since my current one has a rotting frame. currently all that are on craigslist are 2wd models (which I'm honestly fine with). real question is, is it gonna get me killed in the winter? only time I've found I needed 4x4 in my old s10 was at a dead stop, and I can blame that on shit tires. my current pickup (toyota) has what has to be a 90/10 weight distribution (no bed) and shitty A/Ts so winter driving with it's a bit trickier/dependent on 4x4.

basically what I'm asking is will a 2wd truck with some weight in the bed + decent tires + maybe a locker if I'm feeling adventurous be enough?

I'm probably going to regret posting personal pictures but oh well, this is it

not exactly the best condition but it's a fucking tank

why would we shit on you for having a nice clean truck? also there's a good amount of performance options for the 22r.

lceperformance.com/

is that a straight axle or IFS? can't tell from this angle.

from my weak google-fu figuring out what the fuck that means, pretty sure it's IFS

sorry, like i said my expertise is in guns, not cars

anyone have any experience with the 84 corvette c4?

Bad Throw out bearings squeal when the clutch pedal is not depressed you'll need to have the transmission dripped to replace it, may as well replace the entire clutch with a clutch kit while you're in there

Hey Veeky Forums, got a couple of questions. Pic related is my 1993 f150, bought it cheap and dumped a bunch of money into it like a dumbass so now I'm committed. So far, the big ticket items are a new engine, pro comp lift kit, and bodywork/paint. I've done all the work myself, i could probably rattle off shit I've done for hours desu, guess that's what happens when you buy an abused ford. Oh well. Anyway, at this point the transmission is shot and so is the rear end. The 350 or so hp crate motor i put in it is doing its best to kill of the rest of the drivetrain, and its only a matter of time. My idea was to just buy an f350 of the same generation (these 1980-1997 fords are essentially all the same, the only real differences are styling, drivetrain, and suspension) and doing a trans/axle/t-case/suspension swap, but now i'm having a more nteresting idea. My younger brother's toy is a 1989 or so Cummins w250, that 12 valuve 5.9 makes me regret wasting more money on a gasser. I found a decent 4wd Cummins for a steal, and im seriously considering a Fummins build. I know how to fabricate the mounts and wire the basic 5.9, Im just not sure how i'd keep things like the speedo and odo working, or make sure they're still semi accurate. Additionally, I know I'll need new fuel filler nozzels, but will everything else be fine, like the fuel pumps? I know the 5.9 uses a mechanical pump, but I haven't seen this topic covered on any of the forums I've visited. Anything else I'm forgetting, or anything i should be aware of before going through with this?

So here's the deal, I want to buy a second car but the problem is I don't have a garage because I live with my parents, what do?

Oh, also, would I be able to keep the dual tank setup currently on my truck? I can't think of a way to work it out.

Last night I was driving home and when I would brake for a stop all of my lights (both interior and exterior) would go dim, to the point I thought they went out. It would quickly recover afterwards. I obviously think it's an alternator issue, but could it also be a belt issue? In an earlier thread it was speculated that I could have a loose belt because my a/c would stutter and blow warm when I braked.

Milfag here, I'm going back to my home of record soon, but in the state I'm in now my car is registered with permanent tags meaning they never have to be renewed as long as I own the car. Realistically, how long could I get away with not switching my plates in my home state? Going from nothing to like $400 a year would suck. Provided I don't get pulled over for speeding or anything a shit ton, how long will the " I just moved here" excuse work? What sort of legal issues would I be looking at if they tried to fuck me on this?

Possibly. If it squeals or sounds slippy then obviously. Since it's pretty much the cheapest part on an engine replace that first and see if the problems go away

>$400 a year
wew lad, I thought annual registration was under $100 for you burgers

Depends on state. Where I am now, it is about $100 if you're ineligible for z tags. There are places where it's even more expensive.

I've got a '97 civic with a manual transmission. When braking from high speed (75-85 mph) the car shudders and shakes. The front brake pads and axles were replaced about 2 weeks before I noticed it. Any ideas as to what might be going on?

Trying to remove the antenna from a 64 Galaxie.

How the hell do I get this washer out?

Sounds like you need an alignment done. Either that or the rotors they used weren't new.

you can buy shitty beaters for $200.

My buddy had a minivan that wouldn't shift outta 2nd until you hit 30mph, and that you started with a screwdriver.

A guy from work is selling his '15 Scion iQ and since he knows i need a car offered me first grab at it for 10k. It has 32k miles and is well maintained. KBB say's that's right but what does Veeky Forums say. Specifically how reliable are they, cheap to fix, and/or fixable by a novice?

The guy says he has a clutch kit with the car, and has a picture of it in the box, but he hasn't installed it yet.

Were the rotors replaced?

Sounds like an alternator
or a really bad battery, is it hard to start?

03 Forester

I have a ticking that I was told is a lifter. It's not there when the engine is cold, but gets to it's loudest when warmed up and then its on and off with the noise level. If I get to about 2.5k rpm it fades away. Any clue what it'll cost?

depends on how much work you can do yourself but the whole thing could be up around 1200-1500

Passed out from exhaustion on the freeway. No damage to the other guys car and I'm not claiming any damage. How fucked am I? Like 1000% increase fucked?

Well fuck. Will I damage anything if I don't get it done or looked at any time soon?

You could smash a valve spring or start getting an engine ping. The longer you drive it the worse and more unstable will get.
Depends on how much you drive it. If its your daily then it needs to be done pretty soon

ok... i think I followed that... and its not a stupid question.
I hear sometimes the compressed air will turn the engine and mess up a leakdown test.. never happened to me. putting it in gear was a good idea, but if the engine still turns a bit when you add air, you'll just have to manually hold the crankshaft. put a breaker bar on the socket holding the crankshaft and either have someone hold it or brace it on something. or see if theres a handy place to brace the drive belt anywhere - camshaft pulley, crank pulley....vicegrips, screwdriver, just immobilize it, you get the drift
any air you hear escaping is meaningless if you haven't had it at tdc during test, so don't jump to conclusions about throttle body leak, could just be that that valve is opening a bit (normally) if the engine's turning like you say.

sounds to me like probably a belt issue, since thats the only thing your ac and alternator share (probably). I bet its loose. If not, then go to the alternator side of things.... start with checking main connections on alt. and battery and the ground strap then get free batt/alt testing at auto store

>shitty driver who shifts slow
>thinner/less grippy tires
>too much wheelspin at the start

My buddy has a piece of shit 305 out of an old C10 that he sold. We're trying to figure out what to do with the engine. I was thinking we converted to two stroke, all you have to do is regear the cam and distributor to spin twice as fast as they normally do in relation to the crank right? I know you would have to beef up the cooling system considering there be twice as many explosions per second , but would there be any considerations that would need to happen for internals if you're not planning on going full retard and revving it over 9000 or twin turboing or anything?

I've seen a bunch of negatives about the 2012 Beetle, is it just a German "maintain to 'enjoy'" kind of car?

May as well rebuild before you install.
I just would refrain from going absolutely crazy unless you're planning on putting a lot of torque through it.

Anyone have a good source for aftermarket performance parts for 1st gen Honda fits? Specifically a 2007 sport auto and I was hoping for either putting in independent rear suspension or rear disc brakes. I'm looking through forums but it's all stancer cancer shit.
Gracias

Best 4x4 to buy used cheap and modify for 4x4/long overland trips?

Australia btw.

So there's a very cheap Foxbody Mustang LX for sale, which looks very clean, but the owner says the only problem is that the clutch cable is broken. All I can put together is that it's undrivable in its current state because of that, but I don't have the know-how to fix it. How complicated is it to rewire a clutch cable? Or how much would it cost to get someone to fix it?

My idea is to have someone from a shop look it over, fix it, and foot the invoice to the owner. If I like it then I'll cover the invoice.

I'm in the process of replacing the leaky and not working water pump on my 88 mr2. Now that i can see down a hose leading to the water pump i see solid build up sort of like pic related along the sides of the hose. Same consistency of pic related but snowy white.

Any idea what it could be?

Recently changed oil. Looked good. Nothing under oil cap. Coolant drained and looked normal. Google searching is telling me it may be old coolant residue (car sat for a long time, who knows when it was changed last) or stop leak that no one ever bothered to flush out.

Total newfag here, what the hell does mopar mean?

Chrysler group basically

I haven't heard any squeals, but it is pretty cheap to replace

It wasn't hard to start

Do any auto parts stores offer free battery tests?

they all offer free battery/alternator tests. it'll be enough to just check that the belt has decent tension on it, give the belt a good look and listen at idle and while revving. also feel if it gets really hot after running. if it does, its slipping. check pulleys and tension.
if the belt checks out, I bet you have a bad connection on the main wire to the alt (the thick one). clean terminal and connector. check ground strap too

>accelerate slightly
>engine makes hektik hissing noise akin to a boost leak
am i looking at a vacuum leak?

Top speed is a good indicator of horsepower. An RX7 with a genuine 1,000hp should have destroyed your dad's car.

I'm going with the RX7 owner is a lying bitch. Assuming it was still a rotary, there are not many 13Bs pushing more than 500-600 as anything beyond that requires 2-part e-shafts, clearanced rotors, doweling and serious ports.

>idling in 1st or 2nd up to red light or whatever
>light changes
>stamp throttle
>car shakes violently until the revs get a big higher
only in 1st or 2nd though
anyone know whats going on? i dont even touch the clutch and i dont want people to think i'm some dickhead who doesnt know how to clutch

'sup QTDDTOT

My pic related shitbox has a slight catch in it's steering. When rotating the wheel clockwise from center it catches at about the 10* position, feels kind of like the bump you get when shifting a stick. A little bit of resistance and then it's good. Does not occur when the wheel comes back to center, and does not occur every rotation (that is to say, if I take it from center to full right lock, it does not catch as it goes back through that 10* position)

I have had the wheels off and stuck my head under it, I don't hear any thunks and the RPM's don't nosedive (implying no extra load on the steering pump), and I can't see anything binding up the steering arms. Any thoughts?

1rst free thing to check - tranny fluid