So I just swapped this engine in and on first start the belt for the alt burned up because the alternator seized. It would have been so easy to replace it when it was out of the car and now it's fucking me.
Pic related: The bottom bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket is stuck. The nut is loose but the bolt won't move.
I heated the bracket, didn't work. Any solutions? Just kms?
Jose Ramirez
good sized breaker bar with socket, spray the living fuck out of it with whatever penetrating fluid you have. apply pressure back and forward
If you have space you might need to give it a love tap with a hammer/mallet or something
Joshua Ramirez
Don't have space, plus it's late night here.
What do you mean about the breaker bar? The nut is loose and not a problem... shit is just stuck.
Julian Parker
wait I'm an idiot
It would appear its hammer time
Dylan Brooks
is the bracket threaded where the bolt goes through? some are, some aren't. I would think yours is not being that you've got that nut there. will the bolt spin? just can't get it out?
Aiden Roberts
No room for hammer
Charles Rogers
Other side is a big square.
Ethan Morris
>he didnt swap the alternator over from his original engine >he didnt even spin it to see if it wasnt fucking seized I bet you didn't replace the timing belt/water pump or other shit like that you fucking scrub
Camden Ramirez
Large flathead screwdriver to pry the bolt out
Mason Nguyen
Pretty much this. The motor looks filthy. Can you not simply unbolt the bracket from the block?
Eli Ramirez
I'd get a wrench around the square bolt head and twist. not to get it out just to try to unseize the thing. then I would get a crow bar and use it like a lever, using the side of engine compartment for leverage, possible using a block of wood or something so you are pushing the bolt as straight as possible (and protecting body). just get it out enough to get a crowbar behind the square bolt head and then pry. if that fails, option two is to hammer a chisel down between the bolt head and mounting. (i made that option 2 because you may fuck up the bolt)
Lucas Taylor
... and also fuck these guys... unbolt the bracket? go outside right now and look at your alternator bracket then get back to us
Grayson Walker
Engine ran without issues up until the crash, and I started it on a few occasions after the crash. Didn't expect anything to be wrong with the alternator.
The bottom of the alternator blocks me from putting a socket on it. Box end wrench will just strip it.
Aaron Anderson
gotta be some way of getting leverage on that big square to spin free
Nathan Adams
>Didn't expect anything to be wrong with the alternator. Not the right attitude to have when dealing with cars. A quick spin could have saved you a lot of headaches
Austin Davis
I can't believe this isnt pasta/trolling. What kind of filenames are those? Anyway leave the bolt there, just back it out a good bit which it looks like it is. Rock the alt back and forth on the bolt you're trying to take out- yes that implies removing the top bracket first, go ahead and do that.
When you can rock the alternator on that bottom bolt, just pull upwards hard on it while rucking it back and forth and it should lift out. You see the bottom bracket with the bolt you're trying to remove is slotted on the top of it so the bolt can pass through once it's loosened.
Ryder Sanchez
>Alternator was fine a month ago >It's probably broken now Is it incredibly normal to have an alternator completely seize when it sits for a month?
Jacob Hill
not all brackets are like that. can you see something in pics?
John Morales
you can see damage to the inner edge of the pulley in the first pic. probably banged it somewhere in installation. I'd say to remove it and see if the shaft is sttill straight and rotates without play, but getting that off will probably be more difficult than that bolt
Jayden Bailey
They are different on every car you moron. Ops looks like it is just those two bolts
Leo Thompson
yeah i spoke too soon but they are generally a bitch especially with old motors, especially with everything installed. > The bottom of the alternator blocks me from putting a socket on it. Box end wrench will just strip it. hapenned to be right anyhow
Kayden Jackson
No not unless its covered in oil. We have alts that have been sitting on a shelf for 20 years, we throw them in and off they go
Dylan Fisher
>hapenned to be right anyhow Not really. If he had a decent spanner itd be fine.
Samuel Johnson
Stuck bolt you say?
John Gonzalez
> Drill hole through center of bolt > run welding rod from depth of drilled hole to end of bolt, as if you are filling hole with weld > heat will make bolt shrink a bit and crack free > profit
Josiah Thompson
might need one of those hollow socket wrenches ..anyhow, I think he banged the alternator pulley on something in moving the engine and thats why the inner rim is damaged and thats why its seized and maybe even why that bolt is jammed
Anthony Ward
I probably used a pry bar against it when I was trying to get that bolt out.
Jacob Ortiz
Yeah I have that
Ian Bailey
Go to home depot and get a MAPP gas torch, head the head of that bolt till red hot then spray with a garden hose.
If that fails get a sawzall and cut out the bolt and just replace with with a stainless grade 8 also from homie depot.
Come on dude
Christian Gray
Looks like that entire bracket just unbolts, just take out them bolts going into the block user
Wyatt Lewis
My AW11 had this issue.
I removed the entire alternator bracket with the alternator still on from the engine, went at it with a torch, angle grinder, and hammer. Took over a half hour of hard work but I got that bitch off.
Jason Sullivan
Heat does not make the bolt shrink. The point is to expand the bolt by heating it, then when it cools back down it will have pushed out with enough force to give it a little more wiggle room.
Heat causes expansion dumbass. Any middleschooler could tell you that
Jace Perez
>stainless grade 8 also from homie depot.
Stainless is not Grade 8 and is relatively weak. Replace it with a standard Grade 8 fastener and coat the threads with anti-seize.
Dry threads are evil unless specifically required by manufacturer tech data.