Post your shit box projects

Post your shit box projects.

>78 Bronco
>finally have the major leaks fixed so it's not pissing every fluid everywhere I go
>did shocks and brakes
>fixed a lot of the drivability concerns
>still a lot to do

Major roadblock right now is that fucking power rear tailgate glass. A lot of the truck was in boxes when I bought it. Most of it is back together, except for the rear glass.

It's has some weird relay/switch/ancient electrical voodoo that I'm not familiar with. Once I figure out how to wire ithe and get power to the motor I can reassemble everything.

Other urls found in this thread:

autofab.com/i-9449612-65-79-ford-truck-2wd-302-motor-mounts.html
ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Got the Z started for a bit with starting fluid. Ran for a bit and died. Both the feed and return lines are dry as a bone, meaning I have a fuel supply problem. Gonna check my relay and wires tomorrow

That's very clean looking. Is it rust (through) free?

And are those old Z cars electric fuel pump?

My tailgate switch is worn out too.
Luckily I don't have to open the tailgate very often. I had to pull off the inner panel and jump the motor off the power terminals on my amp.

Pic is my old toy that was in cold storage for 14 years. Just towed it out to my new place and hopefully get her back on the road.
>running when parked.

I was going to install my new heater core today (aluminum and nice) but I decided to make pesto and cookies instead.

is that a 63? nice though.

'66
Rockin original plates.
Too bad I'm on the other side of the country now. And Cali is reissuing them anyways so pointless.

I thought you had a 66 but that's a 65 grill.

My poor truck, my beams, springs and brake parts were painted 20 years ago- time hasn't been kind.

I literally got all the shit in a box, and the sub harness that goes inside the tailgate is confusing as fuck. It won't work at all unless the key lock switch is grounded correctly and I can't figure that out without a diagram. Also, key lock cylinder is completely disassembled.

Seriously thinking about deleting all that old garbage, key lock switch and everything and just rewiring it with a generic window switch and relay kit.

>them drums
this shit fucking sucks, and it is so hard to find a donor 3/4 ton or 1 ton with disk brakes.

>dat leaf pack tho

Not mine, just a pic of one I like. Thinking I might do a matte OD of matte sand paint job with a shark smile, like an old WE2 fighter just for keks. Mine is mostly rust free and it's EFI

I'm on disks.
Donors are getting harder to find, was easy 20 years ago when I did my swap. I was lucky enough to be in auto heaven California and close to a yard with tons of trucks.
Find them now or sell a kidney to pay for a setup in the future.

I just can't find anything that was heavy duty from the era. no junkyards still carry anything that old.

you know where I can find v8 motor mounts anywhere?

I have no idea if this is even the right diagram, but pic related

this guy also scanned a good chunk, if not ALL, of the '78 Ford Bronco Haynes manual

supermotors net forward slash registry forward slash 7387

sorry for the formatting, I don't want the site to think this is spam

Only factory options for that year are 300 or the FE family (352/390/428 etc).
Otherwise you're looking at aftermarket.
autofab.com/i-9449612-65-79-ford-truck-2wd-302-motor-mounts.html
$240

that's what I thought. you know how much of a cunt it would be to rip some out of a junker? I know that any windsor motor mount from 65 to 79 works.

thanks for that link though.

Also- it has to work correctly with the dash switch.
Pretty sure if its not working or plugged in its a no go.

>not enjoying the four wheel drum life

least they're power

Riveted to the frame.
I use a die grinder, slot the rivet heads, smack em out with an air hammer (rivets don't bend well and the heads with shear off once the reliefs are cut and air hammer applied).
You could accomplish it with cordless grinder and brute strength, but its not fun.
Jeff's bronco graveyard is about the same price for the custom motor mounts, all they have listed is BB 429/460 though.

it's the weakest power brakes I have ever experienced. I don't think my booster is big enough, or there's a hole in the diaphragm

I think I am going to stick to sbf purely because I would really rather not replace the trans as of right now.

What part of california are you in?

Thanks, I'll check it out.

I check everything behind the dash, it's all plugged in. I didn't have the time tonight to start doing circuit checks to even see if I have power getting to the tailgate harness, or see if the switch is working. It was getting late, so I closed up the shop and left work. Next time I'll just start with seeing where I have power and go from there.

I'm thinking it might just be cheaper and easier to get a universal switch and delete the ancient redundant relays.

used to be in the bay area. we denver nao

ayyy, thing is close. Bodywork on the rear wheel arch is half assed but won't rust anymore, so that's something. Still got to get to working on it this weekend.

Contact "highway 67 truck dismantles"
12650 highway 67, lakeside California. (San Diego county)
67truck.com
(619) 631-0342

I needed an axle bitd and called like 5 minutes after closing time.
Guy actually pulled one and met me at a gas station on his way home.

If they don't have everything you need, they'll know where to get it.


Sorry I didn't think of them earlier, but it has been 20+ years..,

Finally getting the engine out of my CB7 for its new engine and transmission and now I'm just working on buying everything I found that was broken. New exhaust, motor mounts, rims, tires, lower control arms, etc...

It's got a 460 with an automatic transmission. It's a 4x4 with a 38 gallon tank. Gas hose is cracked so it needs a new one of those. Still got to get updated pics on my PC here. Pic is worst of the rust that is now patched.

It's got 90k original miles on it. Seeing the rust you might think that I'm lying, but I live in Wisconsin and it sat for over 10 years.

My Honda Civic swap project runs now. The passenger side suspension is together, but not the other because the alternator seized up and I don't have a replacement yet. If i can track down an alternator and belt tomorrow I should be able to get it drive able.

I probably should say that the CV axle is in the way of installing the new alt and that's why it's not done yet.

This rust goes from under the tailgate to the rear bottom of the box. I'm going to leave it for now, but it'll be fixed later. Truck currently has a bonded title so I don't want to do too much work to it just to have the original owner come back for it. Highly unlikely since he died and I got this off of a scrap pile, but his sister was kind of a bitch after we cleaned his place up. Wanted money because she thought we made a killing when in reality scrap was really low so we barely made anything.

That's not bad at all.

Is it near impossible to find decent classics up north? Not rusted out I mean.

I got my Bronco for 2500 running and driving, the only rust through it has is in the very rear corner of the lr fender. They come all day long in that condition down here in Texas.

Pic of the engine before putting it in the truck. Nearly last pic, I'll check to see if I got anything else.

I always loved Ford's modular instrument cluster designs.
Sure it was just for cost savings, but so easy to pop out warning lights and replace with gauges that matched.
Mines a bad example of "matching", but yours is an easy deal.

Last pic

Yeah, I know a guy who paid 300 dollars for an F85. When they pulled it out of the weeds the entire trunk decided to stay. I was super lucky to find this truck in such a good condition exterior-wise.

Yeah, I also love the looks of it. I don't know why but a square speedo gets me hard everytime

God damn, why does that picture like to go sideways?

Rust free '85 bronco (running) for $800 that had never been out of las Vegas (lol, 4.19 inches average annual rainfall).
Still has dealer undercoating.
Bought a donor bronco for another $800 a decade later in Texas (for a v8 swap, also had brand new lift, wheels and misc parts).
Wasn't nearly as rust free but more solid than a lot of stuff coming down from up north.

I got a 66 too.
Finished replacing the valve stem seals today, but it started raining before I could get the head back on.
Hopefully I can get it ready for a test drive tomorrow.

I live in Wisconsin. Anything 15+ years old that doesn't have rust holes is pretty rare given that it's been up here the whole time.

Up north has good engines and trans. South has good bodies.

>Is it near impossible to find decent classics up north?

Yes. Nearly every Bronco left is a plow truck, including mine. The ones that are solid still go for $5k+

That's pretty sad how everything just rots away up there from the salt.

I need to buy a car trailer and start slingin cars.

Waiting on the steel shop to cut me some 1/4" steel plate and 2" square box tubing so I can make a set of motor mount adapters. Nobody sells KA24 adapters for the 720.

Wisc/o/nsin bros! You gotta know where to look and have luck - got this for $250 with a blown motor. Roommate just bought an almost rust-free '92 240 wagon for $800.

Damn that sucks to see.
Mine was originally the blue/silver two tone.
Do you just look through the hole in the floor for lane markings to make sure you're plowing the right area?

I'm going to get some more gas tomorrow to hopefully have it start up in this century
>Haven't taken any recent pics.
I should get around to do that.

Iktf. Got a '66 mustang originally from southern Iowa that found its way up to WI. 78k on the clock. Needed a new floor though.

Guys wtf is wrong with me. I just bought another Bronco today with the plan to hock one for profit, now I don't know which one I like more.

What state are you in?

constant despair

Nice, user.

Hey I've got a bronco too. Only piece of shit ford I own. I'm trying to sell it, $1500. It's manual swapped, 302, needs a front driveshaft and some other shit. Located in VA. I'll post my actual Projects in a second.

Ok. First one, 86 c30 bonus cab, 454/th400. No rot anywhere. Drove it home AC works, paid $1500 for it. Gonna clean it up and use it for my business (general contracting)

And my other squarebody. I love the 3+3's bad.

jesus christ what is this abomination

I repair the body of my gmc sierra 93

...

whats the rear ratio on that huge thing

It's this. But i literally replaced every panel that had rot in it.

...

>lowered trucks
>a long bed extended cab at that

might be cool i guess

I'm having a very hard time comprehending what's actually happening in this picture. There's so much shit that screams "what the fuck" it's not even funny.

im using the leaf spring as a lower arm in a 4 link

No. No no no. You can't do...

You know what, fuck it. Go for it.

why not?

78 Nova

4.56 gear getting put in next Tuesday

Parts for new 406: Elgin .538/.557 lift 287/294 duration solid flat tappet cam, Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Heads, Dart Aluminum Single Plane Intake, Holley 850 double pumper, high capacity oil pump, 7 quart oil pan, misc bits and bobs to make the thing tick

You can't use a spring for something that's supposed to be a solid piece.

A 4 link is designed to take the place of a leave spring setup to keep the axle straight and keep it set at a particular angle.

Your setup will literally bind and snap at the first rough patch it encounters.

So what about your valve train? Surely you're not gonna leave those stamped steel arms in there

Dear God no, I have a set of harland sharp 1.5 roller tipped Rockers with poly locks. I'm not sure what springs are on the dart heads, but when I take them to my machinist to get the gasket surfaces machined and all that, he will let me know if I need to put in different valve springs because of the relatively high lift cam. Here's the spec sheet of those heads

I'm assuming you have the specs that are circled on the valve spring section.

If so, you've got a .690 lift max on those springs. You'll be fine with that cam.

ratty POS 1978 KE36 rolla project incoming.
Anyone else here into rollas or the like? Or you all v8 truck guys?

Texas. I'm fucking selling the 93 I just bought, kind of regret the purchase.

i like it. so it's bagged i guess? or is that a back breaker static drop?

Does it have a factory sunroof?
I'm looking for another bronco, that's the o ly option I care about.

No, I didn't know the Broncos came with a sunroof, I thought it was just the back that came off.

New project 94 XLT 4x4...wanted some parts for my truck and plan to fix this one up a bit and re sell. Got it Saturday night.
Progress so far
Oil change
Temp sensor
Throttle position sensor
Brake line
Door bushing

Truck parts are for... mainly need some trim and dash parts. Also have two more truck I might swap some parts to...but the new one is the on 6 cylinder

BRONCOS EVERYWHERE.
This motherfucker needs the TFI relocation completed. I actually just finished the oil pressure gauge conversion last night. Have the head unit out right now for some cleaning hoping to clear up some playback issues with the tape deck (which is from a later model, a 5th gen I think.)

Rust? Fucking EVERYWHERE! I'm tempted to spend a couple of days underneath with a wire wheel attachment and clean it up but jesus that's a lot of work. The entire AC system needs to be replaced. Drag link needs replaced, which means because of the rust, everything else past the pitman arm in the steering system. Needs new rotors, and possibly a caliper rebuild. Also has an oil leak *somewhere* which I haven't found just yet because the entire engine bay is just disgustingly dirty.

One step at a time, right? At least it still starts.

I would assume so. I took that picture almost a year ago so I forgot everything that was on it

My roommate's project.

Sunroof is the rarest option.
Internal spare tire mount is fairly rare also.
Nite (blacked out version) is the rarest model.

How much rust are we talking? Surface rust, or flintstoning your ass around is an option?

Sunroof would be pretty bomb. At least mine has a new headliner.

The rear quarter panels are rusted through at the wheel arches. 2 inches by about 12 inches right above the arch trim. There's also a hole that I can fit my arm through in the driver side floor pan where the high beam stomp switch is located. Rusted out the wires there and lost my headlights, so I just chopped the wires at the connector for the switch and hard-wired my head lights, so I have no high beams. Headlight switch on the dash still turns the lights on and off though. I plan on dash-mounting a switch for the high beams at some future point. There's also the tailgate. The entire bottom portion of it a couple inches high is rusted, with some missing metal in the center. So flintstoning is nearly an option, actually.

That being said, I do have the interior spare tire mount. Wew.

I'm slowly tackling the rust issues, cleaning the truck up bit by bit. I'll take some pictures of the rust later, perhaps.

RUST ERRYWHERE.

Truck lived in New York for 26 years, then moved down to Florida. I'm pretty sure it was several previous owners' winter beater, which does a lot to explain the condition.

ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php

Best Ford truck forum.

It's bagged.

However I ride with 0psi in the rear and it rides on the bump stops I made and about 10psi up front. So it hovers about 1/2" above the pavement at all times.

Easiest fix for the rusted out arches.

Not bad. I'd consider doing that, except for the rest of the panel being shit too.

The rest of the panel is an easy cut n weld.
Getting the arches to look right is much more difficult.

Holy shit. Now I don't feel so bad about the tiny bit my 93 has. Rust holes like that make me fucking nervous. Like the truck is going to fall apart. I know it won't but fuck.

Huuuuung. I dream of a day when my 78 looks brand new again. Probably won't ever happen though.