QTTDOT : dunno the OP edition

Why not? Are there potential issues beyond what you'd normally have to watch out for in other used cars?

Where can I get a 3k loan for a 98 mustang?

Can pic related be replaced with link related?: walmart.com/ip/VP-75-Battery/47308798

Sorry I'm fucking retarded, meant THIS pic related

Posting again cause no answer last time
For my DD i was thinking of a miata, is it actually as good as everyone says it is or are they just memeing? Should i or shouldn't i?

Does anybody know of a reputable car shipping company? Googling just turns up these scammers who want me to plug in extremely personal info and make an account to get a "quote."

If anyone can just say "yeah, I've used [company], they're great," I'd be incredibly grateful

Reposting for new thread.

On a budget of $10-12k, what are the most reliable, easiest to work on cars on the market?

I don't care what it is, I don't care about emmpeegees, I just want something that will keep running and be simple to fix if it ever breaks down.

I think I got fucked by a mechanic.

He put in an oil filter, that he now claims was faulty, and it leaked oil and causes my car to break down. I got it towed to him and he "fixed" it, but it still had a rattle. So i took it back and he had a look and said it's okay to drive locally. Literally the next day it breaks down again, this time the engine seizes. If I wasn't on a side road I would have been in an accident.

Now I think he's expecting me to organise a second hand engine. I refuse to pay for it, since this happened because of the oil filter he put in, and a second hand engine will devalue the car. Should I demand a rework of the current engine to make it work, or a new engine?
I'm going to call him today and ask if he's heard back from the oil filter company to see if they'll pay for the work, and if not should I ask if he has liability insurance?

If he doesnt pay for a new engine or rebuild, speak to a lawyer at the VERY LEAST. You can usually speak to them free

Yes. 550CCA is stronger than 500CCA

civic

Are newer Civics as reliable as the older ones? My '93 Civic EX was an unstoppable juggernaut of automotive engineering and if I still had it I'm sure it would be nearing 300k miles and still going.

Can someone help with car detailing? I'm trying to bring to life a dull paint finish on my car. I want to get rid of the dullness and make it shine again. I'll describe what I've done so far:

I've already washed (using the two bucket method) and dried the car and let it sit in the shade. After letting it dry and cool off, I applied Meguiar's Rubbing Compound by dabbing a little bit into a microfiber towel and did small, overlapping circles on a small section (front bumper). I noticed a bit of a white haze, so I used the other side of the towel (following the same pattern) until it disappeared; I then let it dry for a couple of minutes. Afterwards I applied the Meguiar's Carnuaba Wax on another microfiber towel and in a left-right motion I layered it on until it disappeared over the paint. I then took a smooth compact buffer pad cover and buffed where I laid the chemicals. Unfortunately it got too dark for me to notice a difference and I won't be able to check till the morning.

TL;DR
>Need to bring to life a dull paint finish
>Have Meguiar's Rubbing Compound and Carnuaba Wax, a compact buffer soft pad cover and "rough" cover (think of a white bath towel, that's what it looks like), and several microfiber towels
>Do I need anything else?
>How do I properly use these chemicals, and it what fashion? (e.g. use the rubbing compound in small overlapping circles)

Thanks for the help!

a bank.
>never gonna happen
>ever seen A Christmas Story?
>every loan officer will say
>you'll shoot your eye out, kid

such a meme, as a DD you will hate it unless you live in SouthWest

do what this user says, but first try to use your local Better Business Bureau (BBB) to file a complaint.
>bonus if you live in CA, U can use the Bureau of Automotive Repair instead

You're on the right track. First wash with dish soap(dish soap removes wax so that's the only time you wash a car with dish soap). Then use a detailing clay bar to remove dirt stuck on the paint. Now you can compound/polish. But if you start with rubbing compound(very abrasive polish) you then have to Polish with a less abrasive Polish to remove the scratches from the compound(kinda like sanding, you start with rough then go to fine sandpaper). After all the polishing, you can wax.
TL;DR
>1.wash
2. Clay bar
3. Compound and/or Polish
4. Wax

>first try to use your local Better Business Bureau (BBB) to file a complaint.

Ausfag here. Not sure if he's part of the VACC (Vic. Automotive Chamber of Commerce), but he is part of a franchise. If he acts up about filing with his insurance, I'll call head office of his franchise and make a complaint.

oh ur in vic? speak to the accc also whos this dodgy mechanic i should avoid?

ChrisFix has an excellent video on this.

youtu.be/CFXfSBR5Q9w

Thank you for the info user. I'm hesitant to use dish soap though because some preliminary googling tells me that it is an abrasive and will dull the finish further. Can you elaborate further as to why I should use it?

I did not buy a detailing clay bar; I'll go back to Advance Auto and buy one. Do you have any recommendations?

So if I'm understanding your process correctly, I also need to get a polish - I've the Meguiar's Rubbing Compound and Carnuaba Wax, I'll see if Advance Auto has the same branded polish.

Also thank you for that image, that is very helpful.

dont listen to these fafs.
if the gasket is still soft just put silicone gray maxxx, ultra blue what ever, in the half moon (cam end seals) and on the corners where the gasket goes over the cam caps. clean with mating surfaces with white spirits

Lad, OP here from and I just finished watching and that video answered my dish soap question - in fact it answered a lot of them. It made me realize that I have to go back out and get some more materials, but hopefully it'll work out.

I took notes as I watched the Chris Fix video and have some questions maybe you can answer

1.) What ratio of car wash soap and water do I use? And what water temp should I have for the rinse and wash buckets?

2.) What exactly is "wet sanding" and how do I properly do it? It seems from the video you spray the area you need to paint correct with the soapy water (in this case I assume to use Meguiar's Quik Detailer & Wipe) and rub in and up & down motion a couple of times until the blemish is gone. How much pressure should I use when rubbing the sand paper? When do I know when to respray soapy water onto the blemish?

3.) Regarding the seal/wax paint step, he says to not get the chemical on black trim - my car has a mix of black and chrome trim on the A/B/C pillars. Should I use this stuff on that chrome trim? If not, I have Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover (Note, there is no rust on the car, but I didn't see a straight chrome polish).

Thanks guys

But a Saturn SC. That's what I learned to wrench on and I have yet to have another car that fit together so easily. All you need is a 10 and 13 MM socket to take apart the whole thing, plus lots of room to work on the super simple Eco-tec

Why wouldn't you go ahead of you already have the cover off? Changing the gasket is nothing man

people treat rental cars like shit and rental agencies treat them like shit. why do you think they get rid of them at 40k miles?

cos the gasket kit from nee san is like $60 and im poor

1.) temp doesnt really matter and each soap will say how much to dilute it
2 ) find something to practice wet sanding on like a fender before you commit to doing it on your car.
3 ) "chrome" plastic is usually fine with wax. the black kind sometimes doesnt look right but you should use plastic fixer stuff on that anyway not wax.

Thanks for answering my questions bud; I'll go ahead and practice on another car before doing it to mine.

>Pic related

Also, I feel bad for pestering you with questions, but I have another one - vinly top cleaning

The car has a vinyl half roof, and in the past I've done the touchless and touch washing method, but over time (due to the sun bearing down on it) it has become faded. I've seen in stores a brown spray bottle that says leather & vinyl cleaner but it doesn't say for exterior tops. Besides the touch & touchless wash methods, is there anything I can do to bring to life the vinyl top? Short of getting a new, of course.

Thank you again so much

What car this?

Sorry my english is bad.

mk2 supra this car is

You Thank

The AC Delco is a group 58 battery so assuming the dimensions are larger then the group 75 it should work. Depending on the battery hold down/ strap you might need something to fill the gap if there is one and make sure the terminals are are on the same side of the battery as in positive on left, Negative on right or vice versa

would it be better or worse than getting a well-maintained car with 200k miles?

no. I've worked for a car rental for six months and trust ne, these cars are beaten by the customers, they are beaten by the employees, they are beaten by everyone who drives them. Don't buy a rental.

>I didn't google hard enough
just use uShip and check the companies license
>fmcsa.dot.gov/contact-us

about equal. both vehicles are getting to the end of maintenance cycles (usually every 30 to 60k miles depending on manufacturer)
>If you can't wrench
get the fleet vehicle and realize you can never resell for a decent price because of that, and that the engine or more likely the drivetrain will go out prematurely. Give it lots of love.
>if you can wrench
get the well-maintained vehicle IF it is a known reliable vehicle (it is well known for going past 200k, i.e not a Dodge Neon)
>inb4 where can I find a list of generally reliable vehicles?
check the sticky

Where do I learn how to wrench on my car? It seems like everything out there assumes you know what you're doing. I can't find any help on anything.

>what is youtube?
>what is a library?
>what is a chiltons?
>what is college?
so many options br/o/
>and they're all in the damn sticky

I can't shift my car into gear, it makes a grinding sound when I try. Clutch doesn't feel quite right but there's still fluid in the master cylinder. Is it more likely to be clutch or transmission?

have you checked the slave cylinder and the clutch line itself?
>if it's bad, you should replace the master as well
If your linkage is good, I would assume your throwout bearing or arm are bad, and then I'd look into the tranny being toast.
>if it runs in neutral without noise it's a good sign

>college
Why would I want to work in a Walmart garage the rest of my life?

>taking a few classes at a CC means my career is set for life
you could have been a real man and taken Auto in HS but u goof'd and now consequences will never be the same
>bend over for Mr. Walton
>I had to pick myself up and get on with it, do it all over again, only even better this time.

...

Thanks for the advice. The 200k one is a 1st gen Honda Fit, which I'm told is very mechanically reliable (though it's not in the sticky?) I can't wrench but would be open to learning. Also, I'd be getting either car in hopes that it lasts long enough for the resale value to not really be much of a concern.

I'd really lean towards the Fit, for a 10 y/o vehicle to have 200k miles it's highly likely a majority of them are highway miles which is good

How do I diagnose an issue with my brakes not working when the engine is off? The car is a 1970 skylark I'm working on and for some reason I can't figure this out. Is it an issue with air in the system? Is it a faulty master cylinder? With the car off the pedal basically goes straight to the floor and does nothing. The second I start the car, the brakes work perfectly.

Check to see if it has a brake booster. They use engine vacuum to create a low pressure on one side of a diaphragm and uses atmospheric pressure on the other side to assist braking. If the brakes work while the engine is running everything is okay

Dear Veeky Forums,

I just bought a 20ft trailer sailboat and need to start searching for a tow vehicle for next year. Total package is

The car does have a power booster. My problem is that theres absolutely no braking pressure when the engine is off. I understand that the peddle should feel much stiffer due to losing the booster when the engine is off, but brake pressure should still be there.

I know old toyota pickups are amazingly reliable, but no idea how much they can tow.

>what can tow a ton?
Something cheap: a Ranger
Something expensive: a Tacoma

Get a D21, it will be your cheapest and most reliable option

Thanks for these. I actually already have a 96 ranger 4x4 2.3l but I feel like it's just too weak to haul everything out at the ramp. It's was terribly slow just hauling my mower around. Plus it's rated at a ton max, wouldn't it be better to have something rated slightly higher?

Dont even do that I just pay $2 to get into a local junkyard and take stuff apart and try to put it back together.

>tfw you start a car in a salvage yard and everyone looks at you like your retarded but you dont give a fuck

1982 or 83 to be exact.

Should I get a 1999 Miata or 2004 Mustang GT?

Both are about the same price. I'm looking for something that I can sink money into engine shit so I can beat all my ricer cuck friends.

Leaning towards the Mustang because I know it'll create more asshurt, will probably be more practical because 4 seats and the it's AMERICAN

The mustang has a lot of potential for speed. The miata on the other hand needs a fuckload of money to even come close to the stock GT. I'd say go with the mustang. Me personally, I'd upgrade the exhaust, intake, and swap a very mild cam into it. Bam, you got a swift car that can take more than 90% of the cars out there. The american thunder exhaust system sounds BAD-ASS. If you're looking to go into corners though the mustang isn't going to do so well. You'll need to get thick sway bars for both front and rear, and probably replace the springs and shocks with something decent. Still won't come close to stock miata handling though. Good luck! It'll be a really fun car to both work on and drive.

alright guys, here come some doozies. I have always loved cars, but i guess it's more about aesthetics and simple things. I don't know how to work on an engine etc. so here are some questions. and yes I am a fucking retard, and should be ashamed.

>1. what is a flywheel, what does it do

>2. what is the most prominent issue with engines when it has issues, and how is it fixed?

>3. same as ^, but with transmissions.

>4. for a stick shift, do you press down on the clutch before or during making a shift?

>5. for a stick shift, when braking (because stoplight or something), do you have to press the clutch, and shift all the way down back to 1? (as in, 4, to 3, to 2, to 1.)

>6. for a stick shift, why do people say that it is hell in traffic and uphill?

>7. how on earth do spoilers actually help?

>8. why do some engines have better maximum power potential than others? why can't turbos upon turbos make a Yugo engine have 700hp or something?

1. A metal wheel attached to the engine that uses its momentum to smooth out the rotation of the engine
4. Before
5. Unless your autistic, no
6. In traffic moving < 5mph you have to ride the clutch which increases wear and can be like doing leg presses with your left foot if you have a heavy clutch. When you let off the brake in a standard on an incline the car will roll backwards. So you have to quickly transition from breaking to letting out the clutch and applying throttle without stalling or spinning the tires.
7. They push the car onto the road more increasing traction
8. The block and internals were not designed to withstand the pressure and will shatter

well shit, 6 sounds stressful as fuck. the hill part to be exact. better I stick to auto then I guess

re: 7, it's actually the same principle of an airplane wing just upside-down

Always avoid going through parking ramps with a manual transmission if possible, because you could get stuck in traffic inside the ramp and destroy the clutch from riding it so hard.

how do i make $1000 in a week without prostituting myself so i can buy some new car shit

plasma and sperm donations?

Just swapped a k24a2 into my 08 civic si. It's starts but I have some a problem:

Starts, sits at idle around 1k-1.5k for about 3 seconds, revs to 3k then stalls. Code i am getting is

P0498: EVAP VSV circuit or something similar to that

Go to college, get a degree in something that isn't retarded

>don't i need something with a better weight rating?
if you have a 2.3L Lima with a manual it will probably struggle, but if you go slow/install trailer brakes it should do it
>things that would make a ragnar pull better
>autotragic (no really, higher torque at lower speeds)
>larger engine/ more horses
>trailer brakes (seriously consider these)

this is why the D is good for pulling in some respects
>pros
*cheap
*stock 4 cylinder KA24E makes 130hp
*stock bumper tongue load is 200 lbs
*rear diff. takes modern GL-4 and 5 trans oil
>cons
*uses GL-3 spec Trans oil, hard to find anywhere, GL-4 or 5 will kill tranny
>stock 2wd 14" wheels with 6 lug pattern are hard to upgrade, 2wd differential doesn't like 15" tires