Bass Is Love

Why would he have triple turbos?

Legit I feel it man, eventually I will tone my system down when I'm done having fun with comp equipment.

god dam. That triple turbo is nice.

I drive a lot and i enjoy rich bass from minimum a 12 inch sub with 1k rms, and for the record i listen to all kinds of music with my system don't stereo type me lol

If I want to enjoy rich bass, I do it at home, in a proper space with proper acoustics and hardware. Not on a car, LIKE NIGGERS DO.

ga wire

Kys

LOLLLLLLLLL "Triple turbo"

These people are gonna ruin their ears. They're not even wearing plugs.

also that shitbox had a rats' nets of wires

So why not (asked in a polite non-nigger way)?
I mean if you just blast music that fucking loud there is no feedback left (driving).
That stuff is almost or imho.
Do you enjoy driving? Do you enjoy engines, engine sound? Tactile Feedback from your vehicle? It seems like you don't.
Seems like you hate driving.

OTT car sound systems are nigger tier shit.

I don't bump everywhere I go I enjoy many aspects of life including the sound of the engine when I'm dropping the clutch.

My old battery and alternator can't handle it anymore it resets every bass hit in stop and go traffic. It's 1200rms 2400max. The amp is the audiobahn a2150htc the sub is the audiobhan eternal. I've had it since 06.

Might need a new battery or amp.

Any sub box designers out there? How would you Build a custom box in a Small car for 2 15"s. And make it really stand out and look nice. I'm just looking for overall looks of it not exact details. I'm gonna be doing a box build soon and want to look stylish and clean and brainstorming blueprint ideas.

It works fine if you are going a constant speed. I know my battery is on its last leg and the alternator has 160k on it. I'm hoping to get a new car this year so I'm just trying not to put any money into this one.

what do yall think of my setup?

youtube.com/watch?v=snlWovyt2ME

Have 2 12" subs with 1000w between them. They're not "vibrate the car next to you" loud buy they're plenty for me.

Defintly your Battery, I would wait for the new car too.
Lmfao Cracking me up.
Ill Check it out on the 15's later thanks!

>tri-turbo

Just imagine that lag

What brand You running?
FYI there is 4 Alternators there ones just hidden so quad turbo! =D

You're going to laugh. They're crunch. Lol

>nobody is blasting eurobeat

Lowest car culture.

Yea Just a little, in my eyes a system is a system and as long as it is good enough for you its a good system unless you buy "sony exploders" then its shit. Im mostly about audio quality over SPL but i fell into a good deal and got into SPL this year. if you upgrade get a type R if you take care of it it will do you wonders for years.

What sub(s) should i get for my m4?
I dont care about the price.

I'm considering upgrading. Have all the wiring in place so it'd be really easy.

That entirely depends how loud/Powerful you want it and the sound quality you want and the size of your car. How much room you got in the m4?

2 Alpine Type R's 4 gen 12 inch Will do any car wonders in the right box its not horribly expensive about 600 to a grand to do it right and will give you the bass of 2 15s with good sound quality

not even a sound guy, but I appreciate people doing crazy mods for their own purposes.

do people often go with multiple or bigger batteries with this kind of thing?

Are there any decent 8 or 4 ohm subs? Or are they all faggy 1ohm still?

.... i ask because I've considered going with two good alts to produce power for other reasons

Multiple Alternators or upgraded and extra battery's and upgraded wiring is necessary when going over 2k rms I know my stuff for the most part so any questions ask away, BTW that blue Saturn in the video is actually my car.
Yes there is still good 8 ohm subs out there but you mostly find it all in home stereo equipment..

I've got a 2000 watt psyclone running 2 pioneer 12's.

Dope af, looks fresh

>being proud of how inefficient your amps are
>not running 90% efficient class d amplifiers
If you don't run class d sub amps please leave this thread and never come back until you learn.

Not Familiar with psyclone, do you know what its bench test is?

Its ok to have something low end as long as your not bragging about it lol everyone has to start somewhere, that's part of the reason i made this thread was to help people get into the sub game that wanna move up and don't know much, What do you run btw?

Why would you want a high ohm sub?
That would just limit the power output of your amp.

you can wire 4 to one amp, 8 ohm subs are efficient at being loud but don't really carry the SPLs, I seen a few nice 8 ohm systems but not many they are rare.

Ohm rating has nothing to do with efficiency wtf are you smoking dude?
You can have a 90db/w 16 ohm sub and a 90db/w 1 ohm sub it doesn't make any difference.
Literally go learn ohms law, higher ohm speaker just means you need more voltage to get the same power, that's why home speakers are high ohm, they have 120v at their disposal, cars only have 12v so you need low ohm speakers with DC-DC converters

I need a layman's guide to hooking up a sub and amp to my factory head unit. Buddy gave me a 200w amp so I was thinking about a 12 inch sub for some extra kick in my car.

Cummy, what in the fuck is this shit. Did you think about any of this?

Are you honestly thinking that the input voltage has anything to do, at all, with output rail voltage for an amplifier with a regulated power supply like your ethereal Class D?

That a regulated power supply, your magical Class D or otherwise, is voltage limited by the input voltage?

Just what the fuck exactly do you think the regulated supply in the power amplifier does, you utter fool? And in Class D topology, which you hype and know but a poofteenth about, a Switch Mode Power Supply is used to provide transformer less conversion from twelve volts DC to usually about 140VDC and -140VDC. This is the Rail Voltage, and the absence of a transformer in the power supply is what gives the Class D topology its efficiency. The output section is the same dual ended FET section in B, A/B, G and H topologies.

In regards to loudspeaker impedance, the Damping Factor decreases as the reactive load decreases. A higher impedance loudspeaker will have a higher system damping factor connected to the output of the same amplifier as a lower impedance loudspeaker. As the impedance is high, the amount of current through the voice coil is low, so power compression is reduced. As there is less current moving through the output transistors the amplifier operates in a cooler, more efficient state. It's efficiency comparing input power to output power then rises.

And this banger: higher impedance speakers require more voltage for the same power. How did you arrive at the conclusion that output voltage decreases as impedance decreases? And what, amplifier output current is static? That the current output does not change but only voltage gradient changes with volume? Have you any idea how a FET output stage works? You need to literally go and learn Ohm's law.

I thought you were a self proclaimed expert? Didn't learn as much as you thought from WinISD and the parts bin special loudspeakers then.

God damn that is a lot of turbos how can an engine even handle that much boost? Is the block and internals made out of titanium?

So much torks the frame twisted.

Input voltage does have something to do with output voltage you dumb fuck, that's why all head units only put out 15w rms, there is no dc-dc converter in a head unit to bump the voltage up.
Your entire post is just a giant steaming lump of shit.

Of course there is a power supply inside an amp, it's called a dc-dc converter aka switch mode power supply just in case ty didn't know the difference which apparently you fucking don't lmao.

Stating that the power supply makes 140v is stupid, every amp is different, you can't just make a generalized statement like that you fool.

I know how speaker impedance works, an impedance mismatch won't happen unless your amp is shit and has a high impedance output

Of course a high impedance speaker needs higher voltage for the same power output, P = E2/R

...

>And I said they are more efficient at producing loud bass than SPLs
This is so fucking stupid holy shit, please stop.

Really Because the headunits i look at rarely land at 15 watt rms

There is Different kind of speakers that work different ways some are more based on vibration and loudness some are more based on sound pressure levels and power... I'm too stoned for this now idk how to word it properly.

I hope you're stoned 2bh
15 watts is perfectly possible with a low impedance speaker and 13v source, do the math on it.
Although you have to also account for voltage drop in the amp circuit.

What I would Like some valid input on is how should i design my system in the saturn as im gonna rebuild the whole system permanently into the car right now the setup is fully temporary. I was thinking it would be cool to do one inverted and one regularly mounted but how would i do that and make it still look good.

Good lord.

Head units are limited by heat sink area and physical space for FET output devices. How are you going to sink a TDP of three or four hundred watts in a head unit?

Are you absolutely sure that a head unit does not use a regulated power supply? I think (know) you will find that indeed they do, apart from the most basic of units.

The bigger question which you do not understand is why? Why do we need to regulate the rail voltage? What happens if the rail voltage is not regulated?

Think, McFly.

A Switch Mode Power Supply used a high frequency oscillator to trigger Thyristors or IGBT devices to reach target voltage. The regulated part of the system is the SMPS's ability to keep target output voltage the same, regardless of the input voltage, until there is either not enough power (lower slew limit) to trigger the SMPS or voltage over the safe specified limit for the components inside the SMPS (upper slew limit).

It's not a DC-DC converter, you fuck. It's a regulated power supply. A flat out voltage converter will follow the same ratio. 12V in, say 48V out. 14V in, 50V out.

Rail voltage does indeed vary depending on power output. You recommended a Class D subwoofer amplifier. You will find that a rail voltage of 140VDC potential is equal to one thousands watts of delivery with a Crest Factor of 6dB.

You have no idea how speaker impedance works, you've shown that already. You are taking the rating stamped on the loudspeaker and applying it as a constant. Seriously, 'home' loudspeakers are higher impedance because the amplifier driving them has access to 120V. What in the hell were you thinking? That's crap. Absolute crap.

Yes indeed, you would require more voltage and current for a higher impedance loudspeaker to match the electrical load a lower impedance unit would place on the amplifier. This does not mean the loudspeaker requires more power to meet acoustic output. There is more at play here.

Anything else?

>How are you going to sink a TDP of three or four hundred watts in a head unit?
Watercooling.

Fuck. That's nuts, and I like it.

FuCk WaTeR cOoLiNg its all about that liquid nitrogen cooling!

How about Glycol?

I'm done even replying to you desu got too much shit to do senpai
Enjoy telling this guy whatever he wants to hear lmao

Like what, learn basic sound reproduction?

Enjoy being the lowest rung on the ladder.

5 channel 900W RMS total amp, I think I use around 150 - 200 W of it. On this 16cm - 6 inches bad boy, woofers in doors and tweeters in homemade pods. Everything is concealed, my trunk is usable, nobody knows my sound system is worth more than my car.

This sub goes down to 30Hz flat with DSP correction, it tickles my anus and shakes my rearview. A 10" would go a little lower and way louder but this is enough to make me deaf and I need my trunk.

Active 2 way + sub on built in DSP of the eternal DEH-80PRS. Active crossover, independent gain setting, graphic EQ and time alignent is the strict minimum you need to make hifi music in a car. 80PRS is the cheapest option for that and quality is great but user interface is retarded.

RMS power of speakers means absolutely nothing, RMS power of amps just gives an idea of what it can do.

We used to say good amps start at 1€ for 1W. I think it's exagerated and 30 - 50 cts a watt can give you decent quality. Anyway your 50$ 1500W amp is shit.

"You don't need a good amp for SPL" is a legend. I'm into SQ but I respect and appreciate SPL and you can't have good shaking bass with shit amps and subs.

Distortion is the ennemy of bass, more gain will not give you more power.

If you enjoy your sound system, then fuck the haters, if it's good for you then it's good. Respect your neighborhood though, if you shake every window in a 500m radius at 2am you're a piece of shit and deserve to get your gear stolen.

What more can I say ?

Bass is life, mids are life, highs are life, music is life. Anus tickling is life.

Teaching my friend to use a hammer and dolly :3
It's body work day.

Lol 6 inch sub this thread is a fucking joke
As a rule of thumb, bigger subs will always have less distortion and be more efficient, which is funny considering you just claimed distortion is the enemy yet you're using a fucking 6 inch sub which needs to move twice as much as a 10 or 12 inch to get the same spl

You know what's more relaxing than annoying loud shit?
Quiet music that doesn't bother other people

>Gets told
>Sheepishly returns for the last word

It's a good thing he didn't even touch on tube amplifiers.

>Hurr you can't make 680v B+ because muh 120v mains isn't strong enough

Couldn't care less what day it is for you.

Why not climb up a rung? I know it's comfortable down the bottom singing out like you're on the top.

Wow. Just when we thought you couldn't make any more ass-backward assumptions, you had to drop another clanger.

The size of the loudspeaker is one variable. There is no such 'rule of thumb' at all. If anything the larger the element, the less linear the output, as the Moving Mass (MMS) increases which reduces QMS (Mechanical Compliance) and as a result, QTS (Total Compliance). Chances are the music you listen to was mastered over a set of Events of Adamson's with a six, eight or ten inch woofer element.

Why do you feel the need to invent these things to appear knowledgeable? Why not just find out how sound reproduction works, and then you are knowledgeable?

And I make it move twice as much. What is your point ?

If you're after spl with low distortion you need big speakers, if you're sitting in a bedroom you won't need speakers as big.
This guy taking about rattling his mirrors with a 6 would benefit massively from a bigger more efficient and lower distortion driver.
If smaller drivers were better I guess all the theaters and concerts should have giant arrays of 6s eh?
No, they have horns with double 18s

I'm sorry I just quickly looked at the thread and understood you're trolling since the beginning. Please ignore me, have fun.

Alright, okay. You had me going till you said stereo type.

GTFO carlos you trolly cunt

Well, here's where you are incorrect.

You see, that's my job. I am a FOH operator in the SR field. I've also spent time on the bench, installed many a cable run, and ran a pie van for a short time too.

You've seen this image before; it's me with a DiGiCo D1 Live, eight hangs of Nexo Geo S a side, twelve Nexo CD12 in a cardioid front cluster, with everything off Camco Vortex Sixes. This was for Sneaky Sound System, an electro act from Aus. It wasn't a huge night with 1100 or so through the door and it's not my thing, but the tour paid really well. I'd even listen to you speak if the tour paid well.

The CD12 is a twelve inch woofer. Single element per box. Now, I could have used something with a bit more cone area. We could use RS18's, also had Meyer HP650's and 700's to choose from. All 18" elements, couple of old System 1200 dual 15" bandpass elements to choose from.

I needed high Sound Pressure Level with low THD and especially tight pattern control. So I used a twelve inch woofer.

Because once you are a bit more switched on, you too will look straight past the effective radiating area of the element, and straight at the summative output of the element.

There are also very effective units from HK, D&B and RCF for installations. They are a low profile unit housing between one and four 8" elements to fit underneath stages or rostra. The HK model claimed a -3dB point, or useable response cutoff, at 31Hz with a trio of eight inch woofers. Rated pressure at limit is 122dB. Which is fantastic for a small box.

If you need high pressure with possibly a lower box count, then large speakers are your go-to. But no-one I have ever worked with has cared much about the size of the woofer in a sub or bass bin, just the sound.

Operators have different tastes for loudspeaker sizes in monitor wedges and front of house speakers for certain styles of music. I don't care all that much, just show me what the unit will do.

>pattern control
>bass
What the actual fuck are you talking about bass guitar amps?
There is no pattern on a subwoofer, the frequencies are too low to be directional at all.

Right, now you are just trying to stir me up.

You can't actually be this stupid publically.

I don't speak good enough english to totally understand but I guess you're totaly right.

Also, interior of a car is nothing like open air, a concert hall or even a living room. I have a (retarded because no money) open air setup I can plug on my car, made with car audio elements I had lying around. I use the 15" you see under my 6" on the pic. The level it achieves in free air is comparable to the level the 6" achieves in my car, probably even less, and it clearly can't go as low.

Anyway,
>10/10, would listen to your setup and show you mine

Mate if we were in the same country I would happily listen to yours and show you mine. No homo.

You are right. The car interior is nothing like a venue or outdoor setting. Up to about 300Hz depending on the volume of the car, every speaker is close coupled with two pie radians for 6dB of mutual coupling. Constructive interference at work. Some people I have spoken to in the car audio scene in the states call it cabin gain, but it's just the same as placing a radiating loudspeaker against two flat planes or in a corner for three flat planes. The reflected wave from the plane is less than a quarter wavelength of the incident wave out-of-phase so the interference is constructive. Move the element away from the plane and either the wave is not reflected back to the incident or is out-of-phase greater than one wavelength and destructively interferes.

Still didn't get 100% of it but yeah, I have a very small flat and very shitty computer speakers, and I put the sub under the desk. The gain is just incredible, sometimes when I don't want a dumb +9001db at xxHz, or I don't want to disturb neighbours, I put it in the middle of the room and the bass magically disappears.

Also reflection is the nightmare in a car. Actually you're always listening to reflection, some put dampening stuff on the roof but you still have windows that act like sound mirrors or something. Best proof : when you correctly set time alignment, the values looks nothing like the actual speaker placement.

Some reverse phase on one speaker and achieve better results. I'm not this advanced I don't even understand how it can work.

Have you work with car hifi, domestic hifi, home theater ? Or just live music ? Sorry if you said and I missed it.

A broad smattering of stuff. SR is my main job, though I did small cinema installations as a THX Certified Technician Level One. Some car audio jobs but only on my own cars and close friends. Had a pair of Rubicon 15's, a bitsa 18 using a Caire basket and a P.Audio recone kit, few other things, but I'm stuck on Vifa twelve inch woofers at the moment. I really, really like them.

Yes, your output will drop significantly if the element is in the middle of a square room. The reflections gain boundary coupling where the element does not, and an antinode (area of destructive interference) forms exactly where the element is, and attenuates it significantly.

Sup famm

JL lovin'

LOVE IT, I have been that shit head before but only when i first got my system lol I never bump in town now and try to be respectful during the day. I love your respect for all bass and music and agreed ANUS TICKLE IS LIFE! (so is all the wet spots girls leave in my passenger seat! lol)
Not Trolling But pun was intended!
Btw I'm Done putting in any input this discussion went beyond my understanding of subwoffers several posts ago and having a hard time telling the difference between trolls, confused people, and the actual truth now as i am 7 shots and a bowl and a dab in to getting fucked up. This is also my first time on Veeky Forums in several years and glad to know its still its same old self :) Anyway hope EVERYONE has a good day and hope you enjoyed my video.

Sadly that system is in the past. Had to sell it all due to loosing my job

I like the system what was the Rms and peak and what amp?

Welcome back! It has not changed much.

A good thought to keep in mind is if the post has MrCummy Paws in the trip, it's full of shit.

Have a great day to you too.

>wet spot

Can confirm, source : ex GF and ex sound system.

Most girls dislike subs, some love them. Absolutely not a single one on earth gives a shit about SQ (I'm the SQ dude)

I have a Fosgate amp that can only push 4 or 8 ohms. I used to have some vintage Fosgate subs with wooden cones which were 8 ohms each. I don't want to buy another amp basically. Its 500w rms if I remember correctly

>Told my friend to stop listening to music so loud every year since we were in the 4th grade...
>He thought he was cool because he listens to music really loud...
>Recently tried to join the military when that is all he wanted to do in life...
>Denied because of hearing loss...

You people are retarded. I love bass but you can only go so far. My stock Monsoon system in my Pontiac G6 GXP was sick, didn't need more than that...

Is bass actually damaging to the human ear tho?
Sounds from and ultrasonic cleaner are extremely loud but those don't damage out hearing because they are mostly out of the audible range, take a look at the equal loudness contour.
Does that also mean that infrasound is less damaging and we can tolerate higher SPLs safely?
I've tried to find research done on this and haven't had any luck really.

At 0300 waking everyone else up. You know there are some people that actually work for a living and not looking for guberment handouts.

You are impressing no one.

I have Found supporting research on this and to make it short and simple any sound can cause temporary hearing loss (for up to 24 hours) but You only permanently lose hearing in the frequency's you listen to so if you listen to heavy bass every day you will still be able to hear people talk normally after a day of no bass, but also on the side there is the follow along theory of your ears just accumulativly adjusts to its surroundings and there is no real hearing loss from loud noise and you can just retrain your ears with time and practice.
In my personal experience i still have great hearing! But I am also respectful to my ears kinda

It is, and it isn't.

Traditional hearing damage from high pressure level exposure is flattening of the IHC and OHC being the Inner and Outer Hair Cells respectively. These are the cells coupled to the stimuli cells in the cochlea and once flattened are no longer able to stimulate the cochlea and generate a ringing noise instead.

Infrasound has been shown to affect the OHC in particular but the IHC as well, but it does not flatten them. Instead, it causes the OHC to elongate and contract. It's thought that while long term exposure will cause damage it is more likely that the ear drum will be damaged from excessive pressure changes between the ambient atmosphere excited by the infrasound and the inner ear.

There are a number of physiological issues that arise from infrasound such as loss of balance, fluid homeostasis, nausea, tiredness and irritability.

If you are looking for research, you can find both "Responses of the ear to low frequency sounds, infrasound and wind turbines" by Dr. Alec Salt and Dr. Timothy Hullar as well as Dr. Alec Salt's "Symposium on Adverse Health Effects of Industrial Wind Turbines, October 2010" online with ease.

Infrasound is a real problem for wind turbines.

>there is no real hearing loss from loud noise and you can just retrain your ears with time and practice

No. Absolutely not. Once the OHC and IHC cells are compromised, you cannot 'retrain' the cell to heal. I know some of the most dedicated Monitor engineers that would train like a Shaolin Monk if they could get their hearing back. But because of stage monitors at trouser flapping volumes in eras of no hearing protection, they will have industrial deafness until they die. Hell, I'd train like anything to get my 1KHz-1.9KHz back. But thanks to JBL 2446's, that's never coming back.

Please look after your ears.

Kys

3 alternators, why not 1 big one?