Questions that don't deserve their own thread

we now have a QTDDTOT thread again. thanks op

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ww3.autoscout24.nl/classified/293296053?asrc=st|as
ww3.autoscout24.nl/classified/289424853?asrc=st|as
occasions.autoscout24.nl/?atype=C&make=29&mmvco=1&model=2149&mmvmk0=29&mmvmd0=2149&fregfrom=1910&fregto=1975&cy=NL&ustate=N,U&sort=price&dtr=s
youtube.com/watch?v=d4b5b0d36Ks
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

what's most likely to break in the engine bay when i drift an automatic?

almost every time i get hectic, i'll hear some noise that sounds like a bad cluch for some time afterwards and when i've driven it normally for 3 minutes it reverts back to normal. keeps grinding with my accelerations and slows down to a halt when i brake.

maybe i'm just low on oil somewhere, Dodge tends to have that problem

Power steering, or piston rods

will the engine light let me know if it's the piston rods? the car is a 2007 charger

i'm all for putting the engine on a stand because i'm experiencing massive oil sludging problems but i don't have time to do this for at least one month so i'll either have to keep DDing it or fix up my lancer.

Looking for a project car for me and my dad. He's former mechanic and currently auto shop teacher. Looking for budget, RWD, light, at least 40 years old - I'm in yurop, so the first thing that comes to mind is a Kadett. Any other ideas?

I'd like to engine swap the thing. Options (keeping it in the family):
>Buick/Rover 215 V8
Pros: Small and light. Reasonably cheap too.
Cons: they break, limited gearbox choice, bad MPG.
>Ecotec turbo
Pros: Good power, light, good MPG
Cons: Not a V8.
>Aluminium 5.3 (L33, LC9, LH anything)
Pros: Great power, reasonably light, good MPG
>Cons: big, it's still an LS swap

Could you think of any other cheap RWD classic like this? Has to be 40yr old, so it's exempt from road tax and gets cheap insurance. Other engine swap ideas are welcome too.

Two year automotive degree worth it for a life skill? I am not worried about working in a shop forever, but feel like it could be great to have the knowledge to do anything on my own.

Basically free with financial aid for me, worth it?

>life skill
>needing a degree
Get a degree you actually want to use. You don't seem to want to be a mechanic, so it's probably a bad decision.

I love older cars and do a lot of stuff myself already, but I would love to do more upgrades, flip crap for friends, things like that.

I dont need to work for a while, I got a amazon business up and running that covers all my expenses currently.

Figured I could go back for a different degree later on

Get your degree in something you want as soon as possible. You're young now, and you'll learn stuff a lot faster than you'll do in 5 or 10 years.

Turning 32 this year so I will be " That guy " always wishy washy with careers, so basically just have some rental properties and amazon paying the bills.

Cars are sort of a passion, and two years isnt that much time.

maybe you can find a trans-am or a rustang?

Cheapest Firebird I could find is 6K for a non-running, non rego'd autotragic.
ww3.autoscout24.nl/classified/293296053?asrc=st|as
Any other Poncho is 12K EUR.

Cheapest automatic Camaro? 12K. Next on in the list is 23K.
ww3.autoscout24.nl/classified/289424853?asrc=st|as

And don't get me started on Mustangs. A V6 Mustang 2 is 6K.
occasions.autoscout24.nl/?atype=C&make=29&mmvco=1&model=2149&mmvmk0=29&mmvmd0=2149&fregfrom=1910&fregto=1975&cy=NL&ustate=N,U&sort=price&dtr=s

Meanwhile, 6K gets you the nicest Kadett possible, and 3K gets you a decent one.

computer would probably give a misfire code, and you would be misfiring with any kind of rod damage, at the very least. most times car would be undrivable

Old Kadetts and Escorts are neat.

I have a 2006 accord that has a chirp noise I can't identify. It started right after I swapped the starter motor (though I don't believe the 2 are related). The noise comes from the passenger side of the engine, happens every time I drive but is not always present while driving (as in it comes and goes) and it's driving me nuts. Its fairly quiet, just kinda sounds like an intermittent high pitched chirp. Doesnt seem to respond to rpm or anything else. My best guess is the serpentine belt tensioner. Any ideas guys?

I would check the accessory belt and the pulleys on your accessories (A/C Condenser, P/S pump, alternator etc.) as you suggested, but if it's not that I'd check your cooling fan bearings first to troubleshoot it out of the way, then move on to your power steering pump and rack
it really could be anything
>DD has a weird popping sound coming from front drivers side fender/wheel well when I hit a bump
>assume it's a bad ball joint or control arm
>nope the fender itself makes a popping sound
frame flex for the win

Any idea if back and forth movement of the tensioner is normal? I've read it is and also that it isn't. So idk. I don't wanna take it in for something until I know what it is.

maybe this is a dumb question but do automatic cars engine brake like manuals do
>t. manual fag

while running? no. when tightened? no . did you read something about moving it back and forth to adjust tension? yes, that is normal

Has anyone imported a used car from the US to Canada ? How much of a pain was it ?

Not really from here.
Is it bad to drive at 4k revs for extended periods of time? like more than an hour.

not an expert, but i think that's the main reason why you get 1 and 2 settings in addition to D

high pitched whine whenever the gears lock - what do?
brakes high pitched squeeking when i apply medium pressure - goes away when i press lightly or kinda hard on them - what do?

thanks OP

yeah pickups do in tow/haul mode.

Im dumb as fuck when it comes to cars, but I need help with my 2010 Civic

Trying to jumpstart it but have no clue where to put the negative. I cant find this mythical unpainted surface to attach it to and apparently it may explode if I attach it to the negative side on mine.

RWD Escorts are a lot pricier though.

>Is it bad to drive at 4k revs for extended periods of time? like more than an hour.
Highway use? Probably not if the water and oil temperature are closely monitored.

Heres a pic for reference

Red cover on battery is pos, other terminal is NEG, holy shit nothing will explode.

Clip the neg cable to the big bolt on the battery cradle if you are afraid

if it's not running then that's a good excuse to put an LS with manual in it. the stock engine is pretty weak.

i have a massive boner for these cars but it's a shame they're so expensive in iceland. a firebird shell with unpainted body parts and no engine costs 6k over here

"unpainted surface" is just anywhere you can get ground connection. if you're super scared, you can connect the negative to any metal(paint might get in the way). light pole? sure, the springs of your car? you get the point.

things will only blow up if you jumpstart it backwards. you'd have to be a special kind of idiot to do that

i have a 81 chevy truck that i want to swap a 355 sbc into, i know the stock tranny will eventually blow under that power, would i be better of buying a new built tranny or sending mine off to be built?

Why though? Is it rallikar tax?

I could imagine that Manta Bs could be had for cheap.

Do you think that this partially melted plastic butterfly valve in my throttle body could be causing my throttle to stick at lower rpm?

Will supressing the cat and installing a less restrictive air filter have a significant effect on my bike sound?

2015 S4 or 2017 A4?

Let's say that I have no car, about $300 to my name, middling credit w/ debt already, and a 50 mile commute every day. What are my options here?

Almost definitely.

Ford """engineering"""
Have one of your parents cosign on a lease, provided you have a stable job. Otherwise, get a platinum buss pass. You're not going to get a car at $300, at least not one worth keeping. Save for a few more months. Bare minimum I'd say would be $1000.

you can maybe get something that needs work for a few hundred depending on how able you are, i was a mechanic for some time and only buy cheap used vehicles for myself. years ago i bought a 1988 Nissan KingCab pickup for a few hundred that was abandoned on a farm. put i think $100 of parts into it (belts, spark plugs/wires, thermostat) and daily drove the piss out of it for a few years. factoring in stuff i hauled for people in it, i made money owning it

Twin Turbo or a Super Charger for my 2004 Mustang GT

How does something like this happen?

youtube.com/watch?v=d4b5b0d36Ks

I thought exploding cars were hollywood shit.

What do you do more? highway pulls or stoplight racing?
Stoplight racing = SC, more low end grunt
highway pulls = TT, more high end grunt
in a layman's terms, anyway. throw enough money at it and you can do anything.

what he said, basically.

Inner city dick measuring --> supercharge
Wanna get pressed back into your seat pulling 60-100 in 5 seconds? ---> tarbo

Are "semi-automatic transmission" actually "semi" at all? Aren't they still an automatic transmission? The only difference is you can change the gears through paddle shifts making it "semi"?

Probably Highway Pulls

Street Race culture is massive in my town. I'm paying for this mod with money I earned racing shit box civics and mazdas. I wonder if I could Twin charge it.

>tfw only American car on the street scene

Bingo.
Though iirc the MRS' SA had to be shifted manually, feel free to correct me as I've never owned or sat in one.

Yeah, turbo sounds good.

Is there actually any difference, maybe mechanically wise, compared to semi to automatic? I can't see how the paddle shifts are different than what some cars like a Kia Soul or Mazda6 offer.

>parents
>cosign
That's funny. They've run their credit so far into the ground a bank wouldn't loan them a penny. I'm basically the only person in my family with credit.

>Bus pass
I live 20 miles from anything resembling public transit. Far out in the boonies.

I do have a stable job. My problem is I spent all my money paying off debt in the same week my shitbox got broken beyond any form of fast or cost effective repair.

FWIW, I don't need something that will last a long time. It just needs to get me to work until I can save up enough money for something better.

Yes. Depends completely on the transmission.
Look at it like this.
You have automatics as an overarching label, and then as a subset of autos you have semi-autos. And then you have a bunch of semi-auto transmission designs under that.


find someone who can loan you a car/carpool with someone

All right. In the end, does manual still have the most power transfer?

I've asked. The people I know just don't have spare cars sitting around. They're all commuting from the boonies to town, too.

And carpooling isn't an option because I work a different shift from most people. I've been bumming rides, but people get pissy about it even if I buy their gasoline.

Thanks anyway, user. You gave good suggestions. I've just tried them already.

Yes, but as a DCT shill I feel compelled to tell you that only muh feels (and the fact that I like 90's shit for the most part) keeps me from driving only DCT.
Much more engaged driving experience when you go pure paddle shifters imo, less distractions.
Manual = pleasure
DCT = performance
for me anyway.

Can't say I see it, but guess that's all on you. I like my direct access. Guess I'll look into some things on all these when I have time.
Know any good sources on explaining how they work?

I've seen Veeky Forums recommend Top Gear to help learn about cars in a fun way. When I looked it up there seems to be two versions of the British one. Is it the original one that I'm looking to watch, and not the revived one?

Already asked your coworkers too I assume?

Thought about getting into real estate? Seems kinda logical if your already making money on some properties.

>Banging noise while on power at low RPMs
What could this be, its pretty dull seeing as I barely could hear it through my helmet.

Motorbike btw

Hey man, all I can say is if I can drive it without ever taking my hands off the steering wheel -and- keep up with performance built 3-pedal transmissions, I'm sold.
Personally, youtube and car reviews of models that include DCTs.
Look at the 4C for an example of a particularly good yet fragile one.

Only watch top gear if it is clarkson, may and hammond. Accept NO substitutes.

>learning about cars
I mean, you can get some basics down and learn a few memes.

Yeah. For the closest one on my shift, to drive to me, drive to work, take me home, and go home would add about 60 miles to their commute.

Thanks m8.

Hey, first step is to learning stuff in a fun way and easing yourself into basics.

You'd probably be spending more money on gas for them than you would yourself.

Have you already tried to finance another care? Assuming you're okay with that option.

You do have a machine made to be better than a human at doing something better. Glorious in it's own right when it comes to engineering in cars.
What kind of reviews we talking about? Opinionated reviews, or looking over the specs and facts of what car can do and has kind of review? I'm looking into the engineering behind them none the less.
Alfa Romeo 4c?

I'd be fine with financing a car.

My credit isn't so good though. It was better but I was so poor right before I got my current job that I couldn't pay my debts and it tanked. It was about 650 or 660 last I checked.

I don't know anyone with good credit who would cosign on a car with me, and that $300 is all the cash I have.

QTDDTOT how do I get rid of a vehicle with no title?

The last two times I stripped and salvaged a jeep I had to provide the title to the junkyard and salvage yard for each.

Now I'm looking at a jeep with no title with the intention of salvaging the I6, since I'm also looking at a jeep with a bad I6.

What I don't know is how to get rid of the titleless carcass when I'm done.

What do?

Why didn't he just turn it over?

That's not too terribly bad, but with only $300 it could be difficult depending on the price of the vehicle and the stealership. I think it's doable. Doable doesn't necessarily mean favorable though.

Can't you ask the state DMV for a new title?

Looking at a car that someone bought at auction with minor damage, fixed, and is trying to flip for a profit. He's pretty transparent about this, and I don't care that, but anything I should look out for assuming the repairs are done well? He hasn't got it registered in his name yet either so that's a bit sketch. thanks

it's an out of state buddy's jeep, and the guy's buddy lost it or he lost it or whatever. it's 3x removed in another state AT BEST, and after paying to have it reissued, then transferred, mandatory registration... time aside it would be like $200

so I was thinking about throwing him $300 and removing his problem. I'm not going to even fuck with trying to get it titled or anything.

>hasn't got it registered in his name yet

they don't ever title them. it just creates a paper trail that would require a dealer license in some states and is a waste of fucking money since he is only doing it to sell.

the question is how do you know it was minor damage? I mean you'll probably be fine, but pay to check the frame true and alignment before buying. guy shouldn't mind you taking it to a shop you've prearranged with... and take it to your own fucking shop, don't take his paperwork as evidence

Oh. Those things cost money. Never had to do it but not sure why I'm surprised either.

Dump it in a random location. If it's not tied to you or your buddy's name then you ought to be good. If the state finds it, they'll take care of it and I don't think anything would come back to you.
Honestly the only thing I can think of besides talking to your DMV what you can do with it or seeing if you can find a junkyard that will take it despite no title.

I think I hear a knocking but I can't tell if it's a knock or some metal settling or bending as I go up hill or over tracks, pretty inexperienced, what should I do?

cut it up with a sawzall and take it to a scrapyard bit by bit
>this is how the tweakers in my area do it
>you even get some tweak money for your trouble

>motor vehicles are filled with fuel and other flammable liquids
>when they crash they make sparks since they are made of metal
>as well as spray/leak their flammable liquids
i think your question should be why doesn't this happen every time a car crashes

I'm looking for a cheap car.

A friend of my Dad's told me over the phone that one of his family (bro or cousin, can't remember) was preparing to sell a 2004 Pontiac Sunfire for $2500, with 60,000 miles on the engine and about 120k on the body. The conversation was short, so I don't really know any other details about it.

He told me it's not quite ready for sale just yet, but should be in a few days. Plan on looking into it then.

So far, yay or nay? I'm a poorfag, so 2500 is slightly overbudget for me. But I'll glady pay that much if it's a good, reliable ride.

>Bought shitty '14 focus
So my problem is: Should I sell my car and get a mid-90's GMC Sierra OR should i trade it for a toyobaru FRS/BRZ

Or, as a third option, rice the fuck out of it

>i want to buy a car
>that some redneck relative of my dads friend blew the engine on after 60K miles
>it's not ready yet
this sounds like a terrible idea
*why isn't it ready?
>protip: it's fucked and bubba is trying to fix it
*why are they trying to get rid of it outside the family?
>protip: pontiac sunfires are crap
I wouldn't touch it unless they were willing to let you take it to a 3rd party mechanic to check it out, and even then only depend on a vehicle that will last 5-6 years
>running the vin on Veeky Forums goes without saying

I would also like to add on this, If i get the truck I would also be buying a bike too

>trading/selling a 2 y/o car
you are gonna eat so much depreciation
wait until it's 4 or 5 years old and then sell it, the sale value will be kinder to you
>not picking up a C/K series for less than $1k
they are everywhere just buy one for fun

Every single kind my man. Find biased reviews find unbiased reviews find plebian know-nothing reviews.
4C because it's what I drove for a short time. The transmission on the stock car failed twice in a six month span on me.
I absolutely loved the car when it worked but I ended up trading it back to the dealer for an older Lexus LS and an X5 for the wife + my mom.
German brands tend to make better DCTs, the new one on the BMWs lineup is heaven.

I bought it used with depreciation already gone. The only thing that is going to fuck me is the tax that i paid.
>Not being able to afford CK because of college
Im staying afloat as it is right now i just dont have too much money to throw around

He's shown me pictures from the auction site with the damage. Rear quarter panel got fucked and a bit of suspension damage. Yeah I'm having a shop take a look at it as well.

Where can I find some trim for my door panel. The stuff that prevents you from banging it metal to metal? Every junkyard expects me to buy the entire fucking door

I'm hooking up. 1995 truck to a generic diagnostic meter. How much accuracy should I expect?

What is the cutest car?

you must be new here

...

Is that a Previa?

Could be one of the clutch packs in the transmission, autos still have those. Any other symptoms?

I did 2 years at UTI, I did their Auto/Diesel course and Ford's FACT also. I went in thinking I'd want to work in a BMW dealership or some shit then realized I wanted to work something more industrial after I did the hydraulics course. I'm out of it now and about to start as a forklift technician at 25/hr and sweet benefits

9/10 would do again

9/10 automatics have a clutch in the torque converter that doesn't allow any slip when cruising or coasting. That's why your RPM stays up for the most part when you let off the throttle on the highway. So yeah, they do

Drove my 81 Chevy C10 1500 miles mostly at about 4k rpm shortly after hauling the engine out of a barn and piecing it together in the driveway. I'd say your golden.

>when gears lock
When... What?

>high pitched noise from brakes
Grooved rotors probably. Take a peak at your rotor, touch it if you can. If the surface is grooved or if it's looks kinda like an old record replace the pads and get the rotors machined or replaced

Although ceramic pads do that anyway

Neg terminal is fine, alternator case, engine mount.... Something metal, preferably not painted

Someone did this and called me to fix it. They looked at me like a god when I replaced the burnt main fuse with a paper clip

>fucked up throttle
>throttle problems
1+1 = ????

Check out Craigslist brodine

This is gonna sound really stupid but I want to know this

A lot of people swap the 3.7L PowerTech engine out of '02/'04 Jeep Liberties with the 4.7L V8 PowerTech engine

Is it possible with the 07 Liberty? Googling gives me nothing but results for doing it on the '02 and '04 Liberties.