When is it time to say good bye?

you can make just under 400whp on the stock turbines in an FD only by increasing the boost and proper supporting mods.

Getting a BMW over a Mazda is fucking retarded. Enjoy your bloated maintenance costs in the name of "upscale german luxury"

This.

>He thinks turbo rotaries that need rebuilds every 60k miles and put out a ridiculous amount of heat that slowly cooks every rubber line and wire in the engine bay is somehow more reliable

Looool

Look at a E90/92 or E46 M3 OP. I like the N54 BMWs but they're all open diff relegating them to more of "comfort" cars.

300kw off stock turbos? Lol get real

>swapping a godess of beauty for an everyday sedan

>>>pistonfag talking out of his ass

Rotaries can go well beyond 150K on stock seals if you know how to take care of it. Meanwhile I know multiple piston engines that have died before 100K. And if the FD did need new seals, it will be cheaper than getting anything done on a BMW

>7/10 made me take the bait

Most die around 100k. But mine had a coolant seal fail at 106. Its in for the rebuild next week. :(

and my toyota has over 450k on the stock never rebuilt 3 litre how many rotaries have you seen go over 300k stock? thats what i thought

Great

Your N/A FC is not a FD. For starters they made x2-x3 the amount of FCs vs FDs.

A FD was equivalent to a $55-65,000 car when it was brand new. Parts aren't going to be magically cheaper 10-20 years later, especially when they don't share parts with any other cheaper, more common Mazdas.

This is how the vacuum lines look on it to operate the sequential twin turbos. You should know ANY turbo rotary puts out extreme amounts of heat. Now remember said heat radiates into the engine bay just roasting everything. Its why these cars get vacuum/boost issues, and a lot of them have had whole wiring harnesses replaced (heat just cooks the insulation on the wiring). They're already OLD cars and didn't get their fame for unreliability from a few meme posters on Veeky Forums. They were well known for that when they were new.

Open diff is a good point. The e-diff stuff is utter rubbish. They also have terrible dual mass fly wheels, oil blow by problem, and the electric water pump is garanteed to fail before 80k km

Congratulations, you own a vehicle from one of the most reliable companies in existence. That sure showed those rotaries how unreliable they are.

To add, Rotary seal longevity proportionally goes down with added power. A N/A Rotary putting out a whole 150whp isn't going to last as long as a Turbo 13B making 300-400whp.

That's a s6, but the s8 isn't much better. Rotories are definitely not reliable, but is it more reliable than a disposable euro car?

Exactly. More power into a rotory = less lifespan. Its not like they have a lot of life in them to begin with either.

>That sure showed those rotaries how unreliable they are.
not really just a generalization actually to high light the fact that my engine was designed to have a million miles put on it whereas your rotary was designed to be rebuilt every 100k
pistons are just more reliable and will last longer period.

>my old 86 C10 went through 2 engines before it hit 100k despite regular maintenance
>>>>my rotary
>I daily a 307

>ITT: deluded rotary fanboys that have never owned a car thinking a 335i would be worse than the RX7

The 335i is more appealing than the 135 that's for sure. A bit big for a two door. The 135 is a bit soul less. Would totally do a 1M if they were 10-15k cheaper

all I'll say on the issue is this
if you do decide to sell, please please find the FD a good home with someone that will take proper care of it

It would be for an enthusiast. Rx7 is raw whereas the BMW is watered down.

Be a man and stick a real engine in

I would chop you up for this car and you want to sell it lol
Consider suicide

For $5k, you can make your RX-7 make more power more reliably. Notice that RX-7 reliability issues are entirely heat and meme related. Fix the heat and ignore the memes and you're fine. Meanwhile, every single part of your BMW will be falling apart in three years.

Stick with your FD OP.

I've gone through that same situation myself with my first car, my original 85 Celica Supra. I have another one now too, but she'll never hold the same memories that my original did.

You'll be missed, little buddy. Maybe one day, I'll find you again, and bring you to life like you deserved.

;-; Pic-related, my last ride with her.

This guy gets it.

The point is for around the same price in maintenance, you can have a shitty BMW commuter car or a fucking Rx7 dream machine. If you premix your seals last much longer, my friend has a TurboII fc with 220~whp and his seals are at 90k atm

idiot

This, there are tons of mods and ways to make the fd more reliable, just join the rx7 forums.

Exactly why I said to go for a M3. The 135/335i cars are more of a sporty commuter. I actually like FDs, but only a absolute retard would say a turbo rotary is more reliable.

A 135i + LSD would be a better comparison to a FD, and I'd take a 1M or a M2 over any FD. I like the smaller, more compact bodies of the 1/2-Series cars. They're very E30/E36 like in their size and apparently even how they drive.

Wastegates/Turbos, Injectors, Fuel Pump, and Water Pump/Thermostat. With the occasional piece of broken trim or wear item (tierods, etc). And even then, you could have all of the above happen from 50k-100k, or you can only have 1-2 of the above list. Hell, there's people that have had zero issues.

The appeal of a BMW is that its a commuter car that's still fun to drive. That's BMWs whole thing, sports luxury. Building cars you could have a hour long highway commute in every day and on weekends still enjoy on a winding backroad and feel comfortable driving on long road trips.

You forgot are the cracking/peeling trim, electronic gremlins, $400 headlight bulbs, etc. Everything on the FD that's going to break already has at this point. Now it's just a matter of standard maintenance that can be done in your garage or by your independent mechanic rather than requiring you to take it to a ``German auto specialist'' that charges $300 an hour to fund all the proprietary tools necessary to check the tire pressure.

The appeal of the RX-7 is that it's rare, fast, and easily one of the most beautiful cars ever designed. If you put just a little bit of work into making it function reliably, you will have an instantly recognizable god machine that sets you apart as a man of both taste and wealth.

>``German auto specialist'' that charges $300 an hour to fund all the proprietary tools necessary to check the tire pressure.

Nice meme. Never heard of that on any BMW. That only happens on Mercedes. Even VW/Audis most can be done with a VAGcom ($150) and a laptop.

>$400 headlight bulb

$45, its a universal D1S HID Bulb, lol.

>Peeling/Cracking Trim

So...replace it? I've dealt with E36s that had door panels and headliners that would fall the fuck off. A little bit of peeling isn't a big deal. Paint it if it bothers you and you're cheap. A 20 y/o Mazda isn't going to have anywhere nearly of a nice interior vs a 5 year old BMW, so its a moot point.

>A little bit of work

Yeah dude just spend $2-3000 in cooling mods and rebuild the engine and you'll still have to get a second daily driver in case something stupid and unexpected breaks

I'd still look into a 135i + LSD or a M3.

edmunds.com/bmw/m3/2002/comparison-test.html

>cracking/peeling trim
not on post 2004 BMWs
>400$ headlight bulbs
lying to prove your point.. sad.

>own BMW
>don't take to dealer

there you go, maintenance doesn't cost that much.

>source: owner

>Trim
My dad has an '06, 70k-ish miles, garage kept, not abused, and it's falling apart. Basically anything involving moving plastic (sun visors, cupholders, etc) doesn't work anymore, the dash pad is peeling up the edges, etc. "Just spend money to replace shit that shouldn't have broken in this first place" isn't a valid solution; neither is "just store it in a hermetically sealed clean room environment."

>Lights
Sorry, it was the ballast that was stupid expensive, not the bulb.

>mods
Metal AST and radiator
OMP delete and premix
Extractor hood
New silicone hoses

Boom, every common problem with the FD solved for $1000. If you want to go beyond that to make even more power with even more reliability:

Stainless divided T4 turbo manifold
EFR7670 IWG
Upgraded intercooler
3" or 3.5" turboback
MS3
WBO2

Now you've gotten rid of 40 pounds of heat soaked cast iron, you've gotten rid of the massive torque jump at changeover without hurting spool, you're making more (or much more) power, and you can actually tune it instead of the stock ECU "lock the injectors open while in boost" bullshit.

You will make money by keeping the FD
That car is only going up in value

>german
it's gonna be just as unreliable anyway, so you might as well keep the unreliable car you already love

no but in all seriousness, if you really love this car, then keep it because you're gonna regret it immensely if you sell it. doesn't matter if she's a complicated machine, she's your complicated machine.

i've heard of a few 12As and early 13Bs going that long i think

I doubt a 1M or M2 is smaller than a FD desu. They're not much bigger than a miata

This is actually a serious point. My FD has already appreciated in value by 20% over 2 years. Its not cheap to import a s8 from japan any more.

Another appeal of the FD. A healthy aftermarket, where you can buy parts that are better than factory.

Power still isn't cheap though.