I've been thinking of getting a cheap 1st-gen Mustang and see a lot of cheap ones on Craigslist without an engine...

>how to spot a /b/tard
fox bodies are ugly as shit but they're literally the perfect tuner car
drift, time attack, drag. they can literally do anything

Then find a 351 out of a work truck find gt40 heads, cam the bitch. and throw it in there, you may or may not need a new hood though.

302's are still good up til about 500hp, If he goes that route, and no the HO 302's stock in the late model foxbodies put out 205 stock.

>how to spot someone with decent taste
ftfy

Hence why I mentioned that the sn95 chassis got the 5.0 the first 2 years.

The 5.0 mustang was rated for 215 hp and for about $1000 shopping around for deals you can bring that to above 300.
They're also impossible to kill and are reliable up to 500hp. Not bad for a 50 year old block.

yes they are shit. 5.8s are good

No.
5.0 is rear sump, but that's only the pickup tube.
Use a 302 pan and oil pump pickup and the factory k member is fine- shit bolts right on.

If you don't want to swap all the electronics from the efi 5.0 donor, you can simply bolt on a factory or aftermarket intake and carb to the 5.0.
Magnetic pickup dizzy and msd box for a controller and you're good to go.

I've done the swap multiple times.

Is it really that simple? I already found a cheap wrecked 5.0 Mustang and a cheap 1971 Fastback without an engine for $800. All I need is an oil pan and oil pump pickup? What about the transmission mounts and driveshaft?

Buy that shit right now

Engines are virtually identical, pan is the biggest difference.
Dipstick is on the rear sideof the block on a 5.0, in the timing cover on a 302. You'll have to swap timing covers also because the rear of the 302 pan isn't deep enough.
Heads, intake, motor mounts, accesorys, headers transmission bellhousings, will all bolt up fine.
The fox came with either a t5 manual or an aod automatic .
Neither will bolt up to the factory 71 cross member, but all you need is an aftermarket mount to go between the trans and crossmember (literally $10).
Driveshaft is also an easy swap- I always did customs just because they're as cheap as a new one and you'll need to use the 71's differential housing- the fox is narrower and uses 4 link and coils vs the 71's leaf setup. The u-joint mount setups are different.
Seriously, do.

Thanks for the info. Also the exhaust though, I'll have to get a new set for the 71 Mustang right?

Straight pipe it
But seriously, buy the 71 or I'll rape you.

If the 71 has exhaust left, it could be anything.
From 6 cylinder to factory 302 manifolds to aftermarket longtubes. Whatever it bolted to won't match the 5.0's factory headers. But they can be easily modified to mate with whatever, so don't just rip it out if they're in good shape.
Even if they're in crap shape, they can be used as a guide for new setup.
BTW a lot of people are tempted to put longtubes on the old body's, but they WILL scrape on every damn speedbump you come across. The engine bay is large enough for the factory headers from the fox, or aftermarket fox if someone already replaced them.

BTW, if the 71 was a 6 cylinder, you'll have to change motor mount towers- tons of factory parts available and aftermarket support of course.

I think that's the bulk of the issues.
Full efi swap is cooler, resto-mod is popular now. Getting the harness into the 71 is not fun though.
Be sure not to butcher anything though, that harness and the A9L/A9P computer are sought after and you could make some money back from those and virtually everything else on the fox that's in one piece.
Just the taillight lenses you could get $100 easy for the pair.

Oh ya forgot one.
If its an auto>auto swap, it's just cutting/bending the shift rod.
For manual its a little trickier.
Fox uses a cable, 71 uses a z-bar that pivots on both the frame and bell housing.
Easiest is a hydraulic conversion if you want the t5.
If it has a toploader manual, I'd bolt it up.
5.0 has a 50 oz balance, 302 had a 28 oz balance so be sure to buy a 50 oz if you have to swap flywheel/flex plate. A 28 will bolt up but won't rev and will shake your engine apart.

Thanks, I'll save this info. Will go and buy the Mustang tomorrow

Post pictures

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Fuck off

>Implying there is anything more FUCKING AMERICAN than a Rat rod Mustang with a big black diesel

Please fucking leave commie scum.

I've wanted to do a 71-73 fastback with side pipes rolling coal for a few years now.
Don't know where this bastard found a shell for $800, can't find a rusted fender for that much out here.

8" and 9" differentials look the same basically- both are removable carriers (the center section comes out instead or removing a cover to access the gears).
Easiest way to tell is that you can't get a ratchet onto all the bolts on a 9" because of the shape/size of the carrier, 2 bottom bolts you have to use a wrench.

I'm sure you'll be checking the vin, it will say what engine it had.
Big Block FE is a possiblitiy for 71.
Different motor mount towers than small block.
Different transmission bell housing bolt pattern. Some of the early transmissions had removable bellhousings (not just manual transmissions) so before you get tied up thinking you can do a swap, make sure of what parts you have.

71-73 Mustangs are the least desired first-gen Mustangs, where are you located that you can't find them?