QTDDTOT / SQT

nevermind i got the engine to work. can't wait to drive that shit

Anybody know what this is? it looks kinda like a marbella/panda but its not.
youtu.be/rzJku9h8UUU

Can the renesis be peripheral ported? There is a surprisingly small amount of info on aftermarket for rotaries in general on the Internet.

Im one of those anericans that kinda wants a camaro, but i hear its too cramped inside. Im not fat or tall but i like lots of outward visibility.

What car is as fun as a modern camaro with better visibility?

probably not, you might get some scrub if the wheel wells aren't deep enough and you don't use spacers

>I destroyed an important part of my vehicle
>instead of using some mineral spirits in my gas tank to clean it out
>I thought it would make my civic sound gud
Suggestion: KYS

it should be okay unless it was a transition year, and you said it wasn't
>my D transition year was '90.5, not '91 so do some homework and really make sure
>there was a transition in 89.5 I seem to recall

>useful accessories
>year of our lord 2016
>everything is a fucking accessory
>inb4 fucking extra USB cables and vape accessories like a charger u fucking millennial
lip gloss and fingernail polish you fucking woman
men have tools in their cars
>flashlight screwdriver pliers hammer

>useful towing TOOLS
Rope Chain Gloves, tools from above

the best part about owning a rotard is exploding it and LS1 swapping it for more reliability
youtube.com/watch?v=qwYQDstYCF8

>wants a sportscar
>wants good visibility
pick one or make a sleeper out of your moms car

I was thinking of shit one might not think about initially, like red shit to hang off of large loads.

Am i dumb for wanting to sell my '86 Volvo 240 DL wagon for a '01 Honda Accord? Cosmetically, my wagons in better shape and people say that either one could last a lifetime and then some.

Whats your reasoning for selling the Volvo?

flags aren't that useful, and this is mostly a law for logging trucks and long wheelbase vehicles
In CA for example:
>load must extend more than 4 feet from rear of vehicle for it to need red flag
>load cannot protrude from vehicle more than 2/3rds the length of the wheelbase
so flags are needed if it's 4 feet but It's illegal no matter what if it's 6 and a half feet (depending on model)
>also if you have a trailer and you still need flags your trailer isn't big enough

>I want to trade Swedish Steel for the most stolen car in America
yes you are dumb, keep the wagon

Well, it's kinda a spur of the moment type of thing. My uncle, a mechanic, bought this accord, fixed a couple things and is now selling it and the Accord has less things wrong with it. So I was thinking of selling my Volvo and buy the Accord.

On my wagon:
The brakes squeal badly.
I think the suspension is borked as it pulls to the right when driving, going over speed bumps is a nightmare and one side is lower than the other.
Stereo/speakers are fucked up.
and a other minor shit is wrong with it like the fucking glove box panel keeps falling off

I also thought about this, but id make sure id do everything in my power to make it a bitch to steal

utter car retard here.

my 2001 Buick Century is a piece of shit. among a huge laundry list of things, it needs new rotors according to a local shop. so when I push on the gas the pedal feels heavy and the car barely goes forward. feels like its resisting before finally getting up to speed. are these problems related? should I just junk the damn thing?

>brakes squeal badly
you need new brake shoes, dingus. they all do that when worn down to about 5-10%; It's not a bug, it's a feature for people like you to change the damn brake shoes/pads
>suspension is borked
this is a valid fear, but since the rear suspension is literally one leaf spring pack and the front is a few shocks it shouldn't be anything worse than bad ball joints, a collapsed spring or a bent control arm.
>stereo is borked
cheap HUs are like $50 and you can get $10-20 speaker sets from Amazon
>glove box keeps falling off
fucking duct tape that shit

>I was going to make it hard to steal
how? are you going to coat the steering column in sheet metal?

>car retard
I'll keep it simple; worn rotors would be thinner than new rotors, so if everything was working there would be less of a chance for the brakes to hold the car.
> Main reasons why the brakes would hold the car in place
1) too much contact (too tight) between pads and rotors, likely due to too much automatic parking brake adjustment (see: star wheel adjusters)
2) brake wheel cylinder/caliper piston is frozen in place and will not retract shoe/pad; if a shop has take your caliper off they will notice this

Verdict: take it in for the pad and rotor replacement, if it's bork then they'll tell you and then you can junk it
Sidenote: it would be weird if they only wanted to replace your rotors and not the pads, if so get a second opinion somewhere else

I know all these things can be fixed but ive almost spent as much money repairing the car than how much I've spent on actually purchasing the damn thing, ($1400) and that's only because my uncle gives me a discount on repairs.

I guess I just want to know if its just worth it to keep putting money in this thing. I really dont want to keep pumping money into this thing only for some other problem to appear a week later that I have to take care of, its already like a 30 years old car and Im a fucking college student for Christ sake, I don't have the time or money to keep doing this.

srry 4 the blog rant.

My blazer is fuel injected, the only o2 sensor is unhooked. Does anyone know where the male connector comes from the wiring harness. I can't find it at all

My blazers o2 sensor is unhooked and I don't know where it comes from the wiring harness. Could someone post a pic or advice

Fuck asked twice

I made my own thread about this the other day but it's been archived so I won't bother making another..

Who here can into gear setup? These are 4.56 gears on an ARB air locker in a Ford 8.8 axle. The bearings, gears and locker are all brand new and this is my first time doing any internal axle work. As it's currently set, the backlash measures .008" to .0095" measured from 5 or 6 points around the ring gear (spec is .008" to .012"). According to the pictures in the Ford 8.8 setup guide it looks like this is well within the 'acceptable' range. I can't decide if I should leave well enough alone or try to achieve perfection.

The pinion shim is .031" if I'm not mistaken. If anything I think it could use a slightly thinner shim, but the next smallest size my kit included is .022" which is a huge jump. I have access to a surface grinder which I could attempt to thin a shim with very accurately, I just don't know if the magnetic table will hold something that thin for grinding.

tl;dr - Is this pattern good enough or should I keep fucking with it?

I believe the drive side is more important to have right than the coast side on a new set of gears. This is my pattern on the drive side at the moment. It looks like it's touching harder new the toe but making light contact most of the way across.

Did BMW ever develop a fix for the subframe on the E46 M3? How much does it cost to deal with it?

>inb4 stereotypical shitpost responses

I'm the car retard, thanks for your input. what should I do about my accelerator problem though?

Well it's a Buick century... Either the 3.1 or 3.4, yeah? Should've gone for a Buick with the 3.8 meme engine

Impala SS.

No, the post that you responded to was actually me replying to the other guy about my '86 Volvo 240 DL wagon being sold for a '01 Accord

Fug you're right, meant My bad. Well while I'm here... Make sure the accord is clean, and if mileage/total miles are better, I'd go for it.

>will my old volvo constantly break?
yes, this is how old vehicles work; what is important is that the drivetrain is pretty much unkillable (even the autotragic) and the engines are easy to rebuild and last 250k miles easy. Everything else will break, possibly several times, especially plastics and electricals. Even the stock seats have a life of 9-10 years
>will upgrading to a 15 y/o Accord be a better option?
All volvo rhetoric aside, possibly; you are a busy vehicle illerate student and having a disposable normie vehicle will probably help.
>It will never be a better vehicle than the 245
>just more convenient

first step, general maintenance on top of what your manual recommends for your mileage
*rotor cap and button
*new plug wires
*new spark plugs
*new air filter
>First
check the throttle body, i bet it's dirty AF and you need to clean it
>if not that and if not throttle-by-wire
check to make sure the throttle cable is at the right specs (measured length when throttle at 0% and 100% most important)
>if not that
look for vacuum leaks, start vehicle and smoke a cigar, exhale into engine bay and watch smoke

are you an MJ?

I'm tired of Black Ice trees, they smell decent when new but after a week or two they smell like old pie crust or something.

Any recommendations for car fresheners? I'm thinking getting a jar of Ozium.

just spray them with STAMINA

Are Haynes books actually worth it? I'm starting to learn a bit about working on my car and I think an in-depth manual would help with at least learning what to look for.

I need to replace my throttle body, but the auto throttle body from Ford is $250, with the throttle position sensor being another $30~, making the total cost a tad under $300.

I've read a few forum posts about others disliking that price margin, and using the manual transmission TB + manual TPS, with varying degrees of success. Does anyone know if this would work?

01 focus btw

Hi all,
I recently swapped a k24a2 into my 08 FA5. It runs, but it is currently in a limp mode and it is not throwing any codes. When I start the car after resetting the ECU, it runs and idles ROUGH. After turning it off and cranking it again, it will run at about 500-700 rpm for a few seconds, then rev to 1.5-2k, then the engine stalls. I am currently running a MAP based calibration that I was sent by vittuned.
I am wondering if my MAP sensor or ECU may have an issue. Here is the data from the car turned on, without the engine running: i.imgur.com/YAExuHS.jpg
Here is the data with the MAP sensor unplugged with the car turned on, without the engine running: i.imgur.com/Qu5uXhv.jpg
Finally, I took a look at the sensor screen and noticed that vit had selected the Hondata 4 bar MAP sensor even though I am running the stock MAP sensor: i.imgur.com/4fZG82l.jpg
Is that ok? Should I ever be getting a negative reading from the stock MAP sensor? It has read a negative value in some of my other logs, but I thought the absolute in "manifold absolute pressure" meant that the value it was reading was in absolute terms. My thought is that either the sensor or my ecu is bad. Lemme know.
Thanks

Just go to a junkyard and pull one. They're a dime a dozen.

The map sensor you're running needs to be calibrated to the right sensor on the ECU.

Same with TPS etc.

Have you tried going on PGMFI and getting a base map there? There are plenty of avid tuners there that will help you stamp out this problem.

carbureted engine for winter car? yay or nay. (thinking of getting a 75 plymouth cricket for daily)

I'm just gonna overnight a 4 bar sensor from Hondata and see if it works with the cal.

I checked out that site - seems like a breddy good resource. I look into it a little more later. Thanks

I've always wondered this. When a vehicle goes airborne, does it matter if your foot is on the gas or not? Is it bad or good for the engine? does it matter? I play a lot of racing games and have always wondered this. Not that it matters in a video game or course.

A what?

It.matters when the car rolls a bit before landing, meaning one wheel of the same axle lands before the other, which could cause some unexpected movement when the driving wheels land and you are still flat out on the gas.
You still need a considerable amount of body roll for this to have a big effect in your landing (jumping while turning or taking diagonal bumps), but the safest thing to do would be to stop pressing the gas pedal until the car lands.
Braking hard may have an even worse effect, with the added disadvantage that it could cause the engine to stall while airborne

Jumper cables/jump box

They make emergency kits that have nifty things like lighter powered air compressors

Maybe a fiat 128p?

Remember reading that if you release throttle midair, rotating wheels thanks to their mass will rotate your car nose lower (car will be affected by counterforce from slowing down wheels)

More important is whether you hold throttle when you about to make a jump, car is affected whether it was pushed in the air by the wheels or whether car was slowing down on the ground hence more weight on the front of the car, which in turn will make it nosedive.

As to the holding throttle midair and engine life.
I guess in older cars with no rev limited that would be a factor becauseyou could over-rev engine easily, since all new engines have revlimiters I dont think thats important.
Maybe at landing when some cars (FWD especially) have tendency to become less responsive when off throttle.

Where do I get that red strobe light found similar in race cars such as the ones in LeMans and V8 Supercars?

probably not bad for the engine, but I know if you watch those moto x guys, they use their rear brake to pitch the nose of the bike forward in mid air. same principle applied to a car if you snapped the hand brake in mid air, but I don't think it would pitch it is as dramatically as a it does with a dirt bike

idk, take your shitbox off a jump and find out.

youtube.com/watch?v=JKQdlXvbWSU

>friend told me to stay away from mazda3s since they're technically a ford.

And technically Ford are fine unless you're a raving fanfag

I mean apart from Mazda are not Ford at all you should just stop listening to anything your friend says.

Backspacing affects you way more than width.

Hello friends, i just took the carburetor out from my 1988 VW Polo GT to clean it, after putting it back again and starting it it started making noise like if air was coming out from somewhere and couldn't remain at idle. What do you think may have happened? Maybe a gasket?

Is there any car that is straight up looking like a fighter jet?

I have an 02 subaru wrx and shifting from first to second at about 70% throttle getting onto the highway it didnt go into gear and didnt sound like grinding but i started to hear a loud metalic rattling sound and it wouldnt go into any gear. Went to move it and pushed it a bit and evem in neutral it made that noise pretty much every revolution. The sound mostly goes away wjen the clutch is pushed in. Any ideas? Did i bend something or just shatter second and it lodged itself badly?

Should I turbo my FRS or buy another car as a project (thinking 240z or E30). I know the turbo would give me the most car for the money but it's my only car, so it'd be risky.

You'd be fine turboing it as long as you aren't trying to push any overly large boost. Most stock engines with all original internals can take up to around 14psi but that's still pushing it. At the ~11psi I would use you aren't even going to notice that much of a difference. You could overhaul the engine to allow more boost but that would take a few days and a fair amount of money and a pretty large amount of technical know how. If you can afford a new car just to mess with, you will be able to afford to refit your current car. Also you have to pay shit like tax and insurance on another car, so factor that in too.

Double check and make sure you connected the vacuum lines

It sounds like air coming out or air sucking in? If there is air pushing out, slap some soapy water on that bitch and find the bubbles. If you think it's sucking air in, get some cheap carb cleaner and spray it around until the engines revs and you will have found your vacuum leak.

You know you are supposed to leave the plastic on them, and only expose a little bit every couple of days/weeks.
Haynes manuals are really useful for figuring out if there is a shortcut for a job, or just for a step by step for any odd job. They don't give you a good idea of how much technical skill you are going to need to do the job though. If you want to blow 30 instead of looking at youtube videos, they are a pretty good buy.

Yeah people typically run 10psi (280-300whp) at most and then up to 14psi on e85, but that'd be over 400whp which would be more than enough in such a light car. Objectively i think it's the best choice, but I'm partial to straight 6's.

I fixed it! I just forgot to tighten a couple bolts hard enough! It runs good now. Do any of you know where can i download the Haynes manual for the early mk2 polos (1982-1989)? I can only find the 1990-1994 one...

Does this seem like a good deal?
autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=20837&endYear=2017&sortBy=derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70116757&startYear=1981&listingType=used&firstRecord=0&listingTypes=used&searchRadius=50&listingId=439647171&Log=0

Yes. Paperwork availability provided.

Lambo made one not too long ago. A few specialty makers have made enclosed single seaters as well.

I want a car with a good sound system

I'd be willing to tear it down and replace it with better drivers if necessary

but to avoid that, what should I look for in used cars? any models to shoot for or avoid? $10k price range

Depends on the offset of the wheels or 'backspacing' which other anons like use.

Was it hooked up at one point? If so it should be clearly hanging out at or near where the O2 sensor was at.

If not then typically O2 wires are loomed in with the rear taillights and Fuel pump wiring.

Luxury models of various cars. Even then its hit and miss as not all trims had quality sounds systems in, and even then they may have been factory option kits that wouldn't be designated via trim level.

no, doesnt really look like one

Is it possible to keep your car shiny and clean while living a city life? I used to hand wash it regularly, but since moving to the city, it seems that's no longer an option. My only options are:

>get it "detailed" for 80+ at some "waterless" hippie station
>gas station drive-thru wash
>leave it dirty

It breaks my heart to look at my car nowadays. What should I do?

Also, is there any reason I shouldn't be using that squeegee with the dirty water at Chevron stations?

station drive thru will be cheapest and best option
>should I use squeegees at gas stations?
yes, but only if the liquid is clean

Some australian bought my car on ebay. How will this work out? He's supposed to handle the stuff so does this mean a shipping company will just show up one morning and drive it off and i mail the title or something? Or do I actually have to do shit?

Am I supposed to have the bag flapping around? Maybe I'll put them under a seat..

anyone having problems with anger management? whenever I made a small driving mistake, I'll get mad and the madder I get, the more mistake a get. I've tried to remind myself but whenever it happens, i can't seem to control myself

Are touchscreen units dimmable? I know some stereo decks have dimmable LEDs, and it seems like it should be an obvious feature on a giant light source, especially for night driving.

What brand are these seats
I got them preinstalled in the car and cant find what they are cnc or dnd ive tried and no luck

>do you have anger problems
oh my yes
>what you do?
realize that everyone make mistakes, life is a general hellhole of disappointment and fucking up, and most normies on the road may way more mistakes than you
>I can't control myself
I curse. A lot. it helps. And sometimes I apologize to my vehicle when it was a mechanical mistake like a mis-shift
>deep breaths br/o/

...

It was before but the people who owned it prior to me used it as a woods buggy and got the engine rebuilt hoping to sell. They only hooked enough up for it to run.

thanks m8 now that I think about it, maybe because I'm hungry.

How do I stop my windshield from glaring up when the sun hits it?

I clean it with glass cleaner but in the afternoon it just fogs up completely.

>do i need to clutch in for it to start

Tramontana from my quick google which you should have been capable of.

I'm new to all car mods but I first want to get stage 2 ecu tune for my volvo c30 t5 which my friend also has.
My question is, if i buy an ecu loader, can we use it on BOTH cars and save ourselves a shitload of money, or do they have some kind of software protection to avoid you using it more than once?

I actually asked cobb about this regarding focus st since I was in a similar situation. mods fit my car, but the tune he had was for a different model year.

one of the same year and same mods should be able to load any tune as long as the year matches. different year and different mods and you risk problems. they didn't really specify what

I'm assuming stage2 you would have intake/exhaust at least right? I wouldn't risk it if you have 0 mods and are a different year.

oh forgot something

usually tuners get married to a car and you can't just go around sticking tunes on things. you have to unmarry it after reverting to stock map. not sure about the volvo aftermarket ones tho

I haven't any other modifications yet.
There happens to be a volvo tuner shop local to me who quoted me 1200 for a stage 2 tune. He said it will work with stock, as well as leaving room for exhaust, intercooler etc.
Don't know who cobb is, sorry.

The dude at the shop said all he needed was some code from my ECU. I have read that tunes rely on ignition timing which from factory is set to account for varying specs for identical engines, meaning some may be able to be tuned better and some worse to some degree. Does this code carry information about ignition timing that is unique to my car which will tell the tuner how to setup the tune? Meaning if I load it onto an identical car it could blow his shit up if the timing varies from mine?
Do tunes bought online need to be setup with the same ECU code as the guy needs at the shop? What would I be risking with no mods?
Thanks for the reply btw.

postantest

There's a term for a car's tendency to straighten out (from a turn) when you step on the gas. Can anyone remind me what it's called?

Self-aligning torque, happens even if you are not on the gas (it's just weaker) and it happens because of the way tires are made and because of the caster angle of your front suspensions.

Or maybe you are talking about understeer?

No, SAT is what I was thinking of. Thanks.

What the fuck are those things?
It doesnt look like exhaust, it looks just like a sticker, meaning all 3d looking effect, shading and bolts on the edges are just painted but then, why its on so many cars?
What are they called, what is their purpose?

i have one. why engine let me rev it higher than it's peek power ? its just waste.
second question : is going on high revs all the time damage the engine ?

What are some nice-looking and all-around decent truck wheels?

Um. That's where gas goes in

Yes, the Egoista was designed to look like a fighter jet. It even had a HUD system similar found in the fighter jets.