So check it, they work just fine and they stop the car really but good but there is like a 1-2" freeplay deadzone in the brakes at the top to where it just doesn't do anything then the brakes activate. They stop just fine and hard under pressure like at 45mph but at low speed, there isn't much pressure on them. They stop just fine and hard but there is free play in the beginning then they go to that firmish feel to where it stops the car.
I've bled the brakes until there is no air coming out of the valve and I've replaced the rotors and pads. It has been doing this since I got the car. New pads and rotors improved bite a little bit as well. I don't have any leaks in my car at all either. I drive an 06 GT.
Benjamin Watson
Aye yo I don't have no mechanical skills but I came to check dem dubs >vice city best gta
Liam Robinson
Maybe there's air in another part of the system, such as the ABS?
Jacob Wright
Check your pedal endplay adjustment. Pic is for a general idea, not for your specific application. Also could be your master cylinder taking a dump. 10 year old car you never know
David Hill
Check your lines
Ethan Scott
Interesting, will do so
I don't think my mustang has that though
Ayden Wood
also, I drove a 2010 mustang GT and I found the pedal would engage low and had a lot more pedal travel than a lot of cars I've driven
Might just be the way ford intended it?
pic unrelated, but comfy as fuck
Joshua Taylor
Might be man. I drove my buddies 2012 Mustang 5.0 and it had a much earlier bite than mine but that's basically a completely different car though. And he had brembo brakes
David Phillips
Maybe you just fucking suck at bleeding the brakes and are letting air in the system every time you dick with it because your stupid and your mom's a whore?
Noah Scott
You're a fucking idiot. I can already tell you're the guy that calls someone to come look at his suspension because >I swear it was making a noise yesterday!! There's nothing wrong with your car. You're just a faggot.
Samuel Cook
No dude. Here's what I did
>buddy pumps pedal 10 times >holds it halfway >release bleeder valve until nothing more comes out >close bleeder valve before he releases brake pedal
Hunter Young
Sounds like a master cylinder going out
Kevin Martin
You're a fucking idiot. Protip: arm chair mechanics with no skills are just retards.
Adam Evans
wait, you're saying a low pedal engagement point is NOT a symptom of a master cylinder failure?
Colton Torres
It's Brosifine you're talking to, keep that in mind.
Adrian Perez
I own two Fords and that is the case with mine. Don't sweat it.
David Hall
Wrong
Levi Perez
no reason to pump 10 times first. do the rest of the process repeatedly with a line from the bleeder valve into a container of brake fluid a until there is no air bubbling out, then do a few more times, all while checking and topping off reservoir when needed.
all that being said, i don't think its air in the lines. what you were doing would be effective as long as you did it repeatedly and didn't let the fluid get too low when you were doing it. sounds like you need a new master cylinder... not too hard or expensive. Check vacuum assist hose and connections first though, just to rule out servo/booster. would still bet master cylinder though, your symptoms are pretty telltale
Gavin Gonzalez
i have a similar problem with an 86 supra, brakes go super far down before engaging. would booster be an issue, just master cylinder, or just old as fuck and nothing wrong? new rotors and pads all the way around and properly bled, just lots of play.
Bentley Gray
master cylinder wear feels like you push down a bit and nothing happens, then the brake acts normally. a faulty booster would feel like the brakes have the same travel they should, but you have to push a lot harder to get there.
Jaxson Myers
How can I be sure it's my master?
I don't want to go through the trouble of a new one without being sure
Samuel Morris
Air in the ABS modulator won't cause a spongy pedal. The modulator parts are Isolated durning normal braking
Josiah King
Is it a new-ish master cylinder? If it wasn't bench bled before installing there could be air trapped in it that you can't bleed out
Carson Baker
Nah dawg, oem master. Car has 106k miles
Adrian Cook
Brake Solenoid
Benjamin Long
Brake problem thread? Brake problem thread.
When I break down from high-ish speeds (70-80mph and beyond), I hear a deep noise that resonates in the whole car and seems to be coming from my left front wheel. There's also some light vibration in the steering wheel.
What gives Veeky Forums? Warped rotor?
Jacob Myers
if there's a diagnostic trick I don't know it, but if you have good fluid and the lines are air free, that pretty much leaves the booster and the master cylinder. the only other possibility I can think of would be a sticky front caliper or two, and I think that's unlikely. also, like I said above, you can tell if the booster isn't working by the feel. I don't like to pay and spray either, but in your case its a good bet, and not that hard or expensive. as the cylinder wears, the piston needs to move further to force fluid through the lines, so you have to push the pedal further
Ayden Campbell
sounds like it... feel that rotor after you stop. is it much hotter than the opposite one? that would 100 percent confirm
Luis Price
Make sure your lines arent rusted through. >had small rust crack in one of my rear lines > engagement point would change going on and off the brakes