I want a Fox Body

Familiarize yourself with:
lmr.com/1979-93-Mustang
americanmuscle.com/79-93-mustang-parts.html

Window motors are notorious for going bad in these. Perhaps get one with crank windows? Engine is pretty simple and bulletproof. Parts galore. Just beware of rust and maybe look for one with subframe connectors already installed. Keep it clean, man.

I thought about buying a 5.0 but I'm planning on buying a C4 Corvette LT1 instead.

Transmissions are terrible in those Vettes

Awesome, thanks man!

Thought about that too, but even with a clean driving record, I don't even wanna know what my insurance would go to if they saw "CORVETTE"

What's wrong with the ZF 6-speed?

Damn! I hadn't looked up parts for these cars yet, but I'm impressed at how cheap even the good parts are.

That's awesome. Realllyyyyy gonna start looking more.

If you don't mind, what kind of insurance premiums are you paying on yours?

I have classic plates on mine and have the most basic liability on it because I only drive it on the weekend. It's like $25-30/month or something.

Also, 1991+ came with a different steering wheel with airbags and this ugly stretchy crap on the doors for holding shit that looks like crap and isn't very functional. Pretty sure the pistons were manufactured differently with these years as well and was weaker overall. Stay 1990 and lower is what I'd recommend.

I would personally get an SN95 5.0 just for the 5 lug and 4 wheel disks unless you see a really nice fox.

Well shit. 10-4 maing. Every CL one around me is either rusted to fuck or a pristine drag car some boomer is asking $12K for.

Fuck people.

That can all be converted though. Not really worried about that.

The foxes didn't have 4 wheel disc? Didn't know that.

Conversion is time and money, but if you want the look, yes, it can be done. And yeah the stock brakes suck DONKEY BALLS.

Lol well yeah, I don't wanna buy someone else's work.

And 1980s brakes I would imagine they're not great lol

>90 was first year for airbag- slightly different column and lost the small info center with warning lights and shit (some moved in between gauges, some just deleted, like low fuel).
>91 has larger front fender wheel well openings, ground effects are different
>85 is last year of carb
>86 is efi but old dash/bumper etc body style.
>86/87 and 88 non California are speed density efi
>88 California and 89-93 are mass air efi.
>lx and gt are the same car- same engine, same posi, same exhaust. difference is just body kit. Wiring harness from gt is in lx- change light switch, pigtail for fogs is behind in in dash, plugs for lights are hanging behind bumper.

>cobra used gt
>Saleen used lx
>rub strip/side molding has slightly different profile so bumpers and such don't quite line up correctly if you decide to customize body parts. You have to swap a lot of small parts to make it look correct.

>I don't know why I green texted all that crap

Learn what torque boxes are.
Examine any cars you might buy thoroughly.

Fuel pumps die around 130k
Trans and diff's around 150k

TFI modules on the distributor suck.
If one goes out get a replacement from msd.

Mid year 89 and all 90 have a "25 year" running horse badge on passenger sidedash other years just have the horse and bars. That was the extent of any special 25 year model.
There was the 7-up cars but you won't find any so no big deal.

"Clutch quadrant" is a plastic pos on the clutch pedal that automatically adjusts clutch cable tension.
They rot and strip out, replace with an aluminum quadrant (this will require aa manual firewall adjuster)
Do not buy auto zone or any other parts store clutch cable. Don't even get a ford. Buy one from steeda or saleen or another high end supplier.
You can do Chinese eBay short throw shifter, but don't get a cheap clutch cable.

Last year for t-tops was 88
Removable sunroof was popular all years.
In 89 the machine (there was only one) that cut roofs off of coupes to make convertibles had issues- it would hold the chassis too tight and mangle the shell, or too loose and fuck up the cut, so 89 verts are a little rare because it took them a couple months to fix the machine.

Most interiors will be grey and black.
All black is somewhat common.
Cloth or leather.
Blue and red are available, usually only with matching exterior.
White leather was only with the green 7-up cars.
Most common exterior colors were black, red or white- of course others were available but those 3 colors covered the majority.

Engines came with factory headers.
Stock gearing was 3.08's
2.73 and 3.27 were optional.

I'll sell you one for 5k

Rear disk conversion and/or 5 lug conversion is simple- there's many options and donor vehicles.

4 cylinder cars can usually be found in ALOT better shape than 5.0's
Doing the swap is time consuming but easy, just takes a full donor.

Lx is cheaper insurance than gt, because dumbshits wrap gt's around telephone poles while lx's are driven by soccer moms.
But lx is faster.
Lx coupe is fastest.

Normally governered to 127.5 mph (this can be easily disabled with a twEECer or moates quarterhorse- and if you mod you will need one of those to reprogram the ecu).

In 89 road & track tested a non-governed lx and hit 149 mph in 5th.
Ford said it will do 151 in 4th, they blew the engine trying.

ECU is A9L for manual, A9P for automatic. Both are sought after for other Ford vehicles 87-95ish, since C.A.F.E. standards meant some cars could be dirtier than others as long as all cars produced met an average fuel economy when grouped together.

275/40/17 rear and 245/45/17 front on 17x9 is as wide as you can go without issues.
Wheel will rub on lower control arm up front at full lock, but at least Ford put an extra metal plate in that exact spot (go fig) so you don't have to worry about killing yourself from wearing a hole in it.

Throw away the stock radiator if it has it the day you drive it home.
Many manufacturers make all aluminum performance radiators.
Fluidyne will run about $250, be-cool about $750.
FRPP are garbage.

There's a small plug on the inner panel in trunk area between driver taillight and license plate- its the inertial cutoff/reset switch for fuel pump if you're in an accident or some idiot tripped it somehow and the car won't start.

Cervinis.com has body parts that fit very well.

Rust, rust everywhere.
Check strut towers, aforementioned torque boxes.

89 and older / 90 and newer have slightly different seat positions because of the airbag design.
89 and older sit slightly higher.

87-89 also have tilt column- which was deleted for archaic early airbag system.
90+ column is reinforced and more difficult to work under the dash.

79-86 have very primitive feeling interiors.
Dash/interior swap is not worth the effort, don't buy a 86 or older thinking you can just change some parts to have the updated styling.

Alright that's enough book writing for one night.

Ohbya.
If you like the fox but want something different, look at mercury Capri's for 79-86.
Weird bubble hatch glass and different profile on the fenders but the same car.

I bought a 302 from my neighbor that had sat in his garage for years. He claims the shop built it to 400hp but I honestly fucking doubt it makes more than 330 or something. Bought it to hold for a friend who decided he wanted to go turbo 4.6 mod instead. I want to buy a foxbody shell and go sideways in it until I wrap it around a post or wall it. Can foxbody sideways good? What do to enhance skids. Should I put a tall tunnel ram and scoop on it? Are there foxbody specific concerns re: mad skids? What good manual transmissions are available for the 302? I know most development is in the auto category.
Which engined mustangs will it bolt into with only motor mounts? I'm lead to believe it's the 3.8 V6es?

Want an '84 project for $1100? It's in Michigan.

>302
>making even 330
Try 200 from the factory, maybe 300's if he did alot of work.

mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mmfp-0910-building-400hp-into-a-5-0-l-small-block-engine/

It's not stock. High compression pistons and a non-smog era head and a .510 (ish?) lift cam.

Honestly I paid him a fucking pittance for it so it won't bother me if it isn't putting out much. I'm mainly a dorito guy but I'm sure I'll be able to get more power out of it if I decide I want more.

Heads are a major choke point on stock 302s so 400 might be a stretch but 330 is very believable.