QTDDT

Alright guys, Questions that don't deserve threads time. my dad has a 1963 buick lesabre with the original 401 nailhead, it was parked in '03 due to low compression in one of the cylinders, I really want to tear out the old nailhead and transplant a pontiac 403 small block he has laying around but im unsure if the pontiac engine is compatable with the buick automatic transmission, the 403 is a '77. pic related is the nailhead

Other urls found in this thread:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oldsmobile_V8_engine#403
my.prostreetonline.com/2014/08/05/how-to-reset-your-honda-civic-maintenance-light/
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

>nailhead
hmm, I thought I knew most about these classic engines, but what the heck is a nailhead??? How does it work different than flat six or v8 etc...

>>nailhead
basically its called a nailhead due to the shape of the valves in the head, instead of the standard looking valve they're really long and have a small diameter, hotrodders back in the day called them nailheads. To Quote wikipedia,
>Buick's first generation of V8 was offered from 1953 through 1956. It was an OHV/pushrod engine like the then new Oldsmobile "Rocket V8" engine. This engine became known as the "Nailhead" for the unusual vertical position of its small-sized valves, which were derisively compared to nails since their head diameter is smaller than other comparable displacement engines of the same era.[1] The Nailhead V8 family used a camshaft with greater lift and duration to offset the smaller-sized valves and arguably restrictive intake- and exhaust-port diameters. The small-diameter intake runners allowed these engines to develop high torque, with many exceeding one foot-pound per cubic inch, which was exceptional for the day. All of the Nailhead designs have 4.750" Bore spacing.

The Buick V-8 was originally called the "Nail Valve" by early hot rodders because the valves looked like nails since the stems were so long and the heads were small. At some point "Nail Valve" got replaced by "Nailhead."

small valves the sit vertical instead of at an angle

Why is cars 4-stroke over 2-stroke?

Feel stupid for asking, but, need some other peoples input and didnt want to start a thread.

Switching from conventional to synthetic and vice versa.

Destroyer of motors or just a myth?

More efficient, less pollution.

Two strokes don't burn all the fuel before the port opens and the exaust is sucked out, there is often unburnt fuel being shot out

Secondly it makes for a more consistent powerband, four strokes have more low end tourque, faster acceleration

Two strokes can scream up to high RPMs and will beat four strokes on straight stretches (bikes) but fours will always beat them on curves.

Same goes for snowmobiles, bikes, jet skis etc

Even new generators are four stroke

I'll add

4-stroke requires a lot less maintenance compared to 2-stroke, although 2-stroke tends to be much easier to work on

I have a question: should I get a brand new air filter for my car, or is kicking the dirt out of it enough? It was pretty dirty when cleaned it out by slapping it against the tire

I haven't noticed a difference. Synthetic might last a little longer, but if you get the correct weight for your engine, and change it every 3000 miles you should be fine. Feel free to try meme oils if you'd like, I'm happy with my Pennzoil from Walmart. Get a good filter tho

A myth.

Here they are in descending order of what you should do.
1)replace the filter
2)replace it once you can no longer see light through the pleats, and bang it out every now and then
3)use an air compressor to blow the dirt out of it
4)knock it out against your tire
5)flip it over backwards to use both sides
6)just take it out and burn it and never look back

I would do one or two, tiny particles of dirt get trapped in the filter element and will not come out no matter what you do. Replace your filter right before it starts looking pretty dirty basically

I'd have to guess it won't be op. See if the 403 ever came in a car with the same transmission. More recently Buick, Pontiac, oldsmobile (all Chevy basically) all used the same engine and transmission across the line but back then they all had their own way of doing g things and didn't share as many parts. If the bolt pattern is the same and the torque converter bolts up with the right spacing you should be able to get it to work

Doubtful. The 401 is pretty specific to that car, and you have the last year of dynaflow transmissions, which were also Buick specific. That said, you could probably drop the transmission from the 403 in with it, and just find adapter joints for the driveshafts. You'll likely have to make some motor and tyranny mounts, but that's not as hard as it sounds.

>tyranny mounts.
Tranny.

Thanks auto correct.

Just rebuild the nailhead. The trans won't bolt up. The nailhead has the older buick bolt pattern, while the pontiac has the newer BOP pattern

You don't have to add oil every fill-up (Shouldn't have to, anyway), better emissions

myth. Synthetic is superior for extreme cold and hot climates

New will always flow better than an abused, old filter.

Damn, that's what i was worried about.

The thing that sucks is that is what my plan originally was, until i found out that my dad didn't buy the trans with the 403

>pontiac
>small block
Pontiac only has one block, and it ain't small.
Stick with the original engine for that resale value.

the pontiac 403 was a big displacement small block, This is from the wikipedia page:
>The 455 "big block" Olds V8 was replaced in 1977 with the 403 cu in (6.6 L) "small block" V8. It used a wide 4.351 in (110.5 mm) bore, the largest ever used in a small-block V8, with the Olds small-block standard deck and 3.385 in (86.0 mm) stroke. The bore was so wide that the cylinder walls were "siamesed" (similar to the Chevrolet 400 CID small block engine) — there was no space for coolant flow between the cylinders. This sometimes led to overheating problems. Some very early 403s were painted metallic blue like the 455, but most were painted GM Corporate Blue. The Olds 403 was used by Buick and Pontiac in addition to Oldsmobile. The engine was only produced through 1979. Output was 185 hp (138 kW) and 320 lb·ft (430 N·m). The Toronado version of the 1977 Oldsmobile 403 engine was fitted with a crank triggered ignition system. Parts peculiar to this system include a toothed disc between the harmonic balancer and the crank pulley, the adjacent sensor (which predated the modern-day crankshaft position sensor, which Oldsmobile used with their Quad 4 in the late 1980s with a cast-in toothed section of the crankshaft), a special distributor, an engine temperature sensor, and a rudimentary computer mounted inside the car, under the dash. No other years or models were provided with this system.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oldsmobile_V8_engine#403

Craigslist/swap meet/junkyards. Shouldn't be hard to find one.

I thought so. Got in an argument with the "professionals" at autozone about switching over to synthetic. They told me they would be seeing me soon for damaged parts and told me they know a good mechanic when my motor needs rebuilt. Everywhere else i search say it is not a problem. Did the switch over today after doing a half blend last oil change.

why do people not like the 3.0L V6 Ranger?

Never swap the original motor if its rebuild able. The 401 is just better than the 403 anyway. You'll get a better return on investment if you keep it

Because it's a toss up as to your engine being a lemon or not. The 4.0 L is a true truck engine vs the 3.0 L that they stole from the Taurus.

I need some help in purchasing my first vehicle. I currently have ~$3.6k saved up, I make ~$800 a month and have little to no expenses. I live in South Florida, so 95% of car ads on craigslist are spanish-only and in miami. I have no idea where to start.

What is the point of the lights flashing for both ways, I just want to indicate one way, why do I need both ever?

Seriously guys??

The only things that could go wrong would be:
Increased leakage due to ALREADY DETERIORATED seals that leak after the removal of sludge
Clogged oil filter due to sludge being knocked around in the engine.

When I switched to synthetic in my Jeep 4.0l, i did an oil change with the cheapest synthetic and filter at vatozone, ran that for 500 miles, then changed the oil and filter to quality oil (Rotella T6 and Bosch / Mobil 1 filter) and everything worked out well.

Worse gas mileage than the duratec 2.3, less power than the 4.0.

ok QTDDTOT help me out.

1993 cherokee just got engine back together. thing is spotless with 232k miles. runs like a sewing machine. guy who kept it was immaculate but it's a little boaty on the road when changing lanes. steering is tight doesn't drift or brake pull, just seems... boaty. like my dad's old 1974 Chrysler new yorker. I've owned a number of cherokees/comanches, none were like this.

shocks maybe? easy way to test? I need to order my shit from amazon prime asap.

also stock no lift everything is tight

Is there any purpose to an air intake resonator that I should worry about? I was cleaning the throttle body on my truck and broke part of my resonator and fixed it with some sugru but want a more permanent solution.

I noticed that people just delete that part and replace it with some straight pipe instead with fittings for the two hoses coming off of it (I think to the valve cover and the fuel pressure regulator). Would deleting that part have any negative effects? I've bought a better radio for the truck so I don't really care if it produces more engine noise.

Veeky Forums please help you could save me lots of money
So I want to lift my pickup 2-3" and get some bigger tires on it. To get bigger tires I'll need to get bigger wheels because the stock ones aren't wide enough, so I want to get some 16x8s as that's about as cheap as I can go. The wheels I'm looking at have a backspacing of 4 in and the lift kit I'm looking at says I need 4.5-5 in of backspacing for 16x8 wheels. Would 4 inches of backspacing be fine, and if not, why?

You can put 10.5 wide on 7" rims
12.5 on 8" rims

probably more

whether the 4" is fine depends entirely on your vehicle, the tires, the width the tread, fender mods etc.

You just have to go down to the tire store and try. the risk of not enough back spacing is tires hitting fenders instead of stuffing, rubbing on bumper corners and fender insides, none of which is likely critical.

Ideally go with plain black steelies with the recommended backspacing, or put your tires on the current rims and see how it works first.

Sticky

wheel diameter
bump stops
how you drive
whether the swaybar is connected

probably more

just go to your local tire store and have them test fit

New question.
After looking around I'm considering keeping the stock wheels. Stock wheels are 16x6.5 and I have 245/75r16 tires. Would tires with a rim width range of 7-9" work (275/70r16)? What about tires with a rim width of 7.5-9" (285/75/16)?

>275/70r16
.6 inches bigger on each side. not noticeable
you're also going up 2/3" in diameter, that's literally 1/3" bigger radially, so with a 3" lift you shouldn't be anywhere near anything. I can't imagine they'd even look that much different from stock, you'd get nearly as much difference going from bald to new or light truck to ATs in the same size.

>285/75/16
.75 inches wider on each side. probably not noticeable. immaterial considering you're going from ~30.5" to ~33" diameter. I'd guess if you think you can clear an additional 3" at lock you'd be plenty safe, that said rubbing isn't an actual problem at full lock, 3/4s stuff etc. I used to drag the shit out of my wheels and it just buffed off the coating inside the fender well. Anything that gets torn off was just in the way anyway.

How much play is in the steering wheel? Like how far can you turn it with the engine off before you feel any real resistance?

I'd get 275/70r16 to be both cheap and on the safer side of things plus I think even regardless of the small change in diameter I think the considerably wider tire would look better. But if it'd actually be safe for me to go with 285/75r16 I'd rather do that.

Check engine light came on. I replaced my dead battery maybe a week and a half ago and think that might be why. Should I reset my maintenance lights using this guide first?

my.prostreetonline.com/2014/08/05/how-to-reset-your-honda-civic-maintenance-light/

If it comes back on, I imagine I should bring it to advance or some such to check it for free? It's a used '05 civic with 60k.

they'll check it for free but they won't reset. of course if you slip them a tenner...

I'd go with the 285/75/16. You'll be fine. Normally I'd recommend going straight to 33x12.5r16 but on second thought you really need an 8" rim for that. I think the 285/75/16 will go barely on the 6.5" wide wheels. I'd rather see 7" wide but people do much crazier shit (see stance idiots). Unless you can't buy it or the tire guys say they can't do it go for the 285/75/16

none. I thought it was play in the steering box at first but it is really quite normally tight.

I did the bounce test too and it bounced 2-3 times so I went ahead and just bought a round of shocks and steering damper. cheap shit, $110 for everything, but I'm guessing with the mileage there is a lot of opportunity for the shocks to be older than 50k anyway.

I just really don't want to crawl around and do shocks... I've had more than a few back experiences with mounts, sheared bolts, rust... sigh

Isn't resetting just holding down the button and setting the key to "on" as per the link? I can do that myself.

yeah but you won't know if you reset a critical code

and most vehicles don't allow you to reset. I prefer to have my own reader in any case. I reset, passed emissions and the engine code (turbo underboost) came on again as I was driving away. eventually got it replaced, but not in time for emissions

But if it's a critical code or any issue that's not a delayed response from the battery, won't the light just come back on anyway? Also the link I posted says specifically how to reset the lights and it seems very simple. Am I wrong? Not trying to sound like a dickhole.

if you reset the code you may never know

just go get the free test and then reset

then you'll know and you'll only lose sleep tonight

Oh, will it not come back on if I reset? I can do either no problem, just curious.

sometimes. my turbo code came back but only after several months, then next after the dyno emissions test an hour after reset.

I'm just saying you might as well find out what it is before erasing then you won't have to wonder if/when it will come back

Will do. Thanks.

Found a Chevy sonic LS. My only issue is that it's a first year model. Anyone have any feelings about the thing?

What exactly should I search for if I'm trying to find Impreza coupes in the US? What's the trim?
>spent so much time thinking about it
>always just called it an STI coupe

Dealer or private?
You could go to cargurus and use their search filter by entering make, model, year, distance from your zip, price, body style, etc... like it doesn't get easier than that.
Trim is the letters after a name like "LX, LT, LS, LZT " it differs between makes but notates a package of things like power windows, seats, sunroof, etc.

How do i import a vauxhall

So, the rear right wheel is very low, lower than other wheels by an inch, and I had to stretch the coilover to its maximum safe length to equal the height with other wheels. What could cause this unusual low wheel? What should I check?

Collapsed strut?

I don't understand wheel is lower are you on a lift or do you mean the corner of the car is lower? And how did you stretch, gravity and a floor Jack or with a scissor Jack between axle and frame while on a lift? How do you figure a maximum safe lengthy? Are you stoned?

I am assuming the collar lenght on the coilover is not the same as the other wheels now, is it?

Did you just install the coilover kit? If yes, was the wheel lower than expected before installing the kit? If no, have you touched anything before the problem happened?

If the wheel was normal before installing the kit, then you may have the wrong spring installed, which is lower than the others, or maybe a missing helper spring on that corner if your kit has them.

So raise the car, check the numbers on the springs of that axle, see if they match. In case you can't read the numbers, loosen all the collars to the point the springs are no longer compressed and check their lenght, they should be equal on the same axis.
If everything looks normal, check other suspension components for failure or misplacement

Rear right corner of the car is lower. The strut looks fine. Stretching as in adjusting the usual ride height, to maximum safe height as per manual. Though I was confused but I like your idea on the gravity with scissor jack.

Yes... all coilovers are at different length, they are suppose to be different, right? (Driver side heavier?) I made the rear-right coilover a lot longer than the rear-left to make up for that low wheel. I haven't checked the springs as I thought it would be something to do with the suspension joints and bones. Will go thru the check list and post back.

I have these OEM 19" AMG wheels on my car, stock rear tyre size is 275/35/19. Will 285 section ones fit?

>they are supposed to be different, right?
Between front and rear, yes, they may change a lot, but between left and right the difference should me very small, and you should set them after some measurements, not because of eyeballing.

You should start by setting all the collars on the same axis to the same distance from the bottom of the strut, and then tweak their position as you start measuring.

Remember to put your car on a surface as level as possible (being level between left and right is more important than being level between front and rear) and to move your car a little bit every time you lower it from a jack so the tires can settle in their final position.

But before anything else, check your springs, you may have wrong ones on that corner

>10 cm wider
>5 cm per side

yeah I think they'll fit

What do you lot think about the Subaru Crosstrek?

>10cm

I'm thinking about getting seat covers for my car (2016 Mazda 3 5 door). I work construction and feel like I would rather be riding my ass dust into some replaceable seat covers than the upholstery. I also have a furry motherfucker of a dog who sits in the back seat.

Has anybody used seat covers before? Is it possible for them to not look like complete dogshit? Do any at least fit decently? Are the custom fit to your vehicle kind worth the extra cost vs. universal type?

i need to clean up garage grease from the steering column reciever on my steering rack. is brake cleaner enough or should i get up in there with quetips and magnets? also, do i need to replace any seals?

Best oil/filter combo for a Ford 4.6 V8? I have an 03 Grand Marquis I want to keep nice; it has 127k miles and I'd like to at least get 250k out of it.

Whatever and anything but Fram

Custom fit is worth it but even okle turn to sit in a few years. It's really about how much you want to dick with getting universals tight

Where's the vin thread?

Follow up question: $80 K&N filter, or $30 Mann filter? I have a Mann oil filter currently and it's fine, but if I get a K&N one I get an excuse to put a K&N sticker on my car

For context, I own an 87 MR2, now for the problem:

The seam where the master cylinder and the brake booster bolt together has been leaking brake fluid down the booster on to the frunk. I suspect its been going on for a long while (even before I got the car) and it was due to partly because the bolts holding the master cylinder and the booster together werent torqued properly, and the master cylinder being old and possibly pitted which is letting fluid past the plunger seal.

Now my real problem right now is prepping the car so I can clean up the rust and re-paint it. I need to completely remove the brake booster, master cylinder, and the brake lines in the frunk of the car. In order to do that, I need to drain all the brake fluid. Google is worthless since all results give me steps on basic brake flushes and bleeding which isn't what I want. What I need to know is how do I drain my brake lines to the point I can disassemble them and move them out of the way, and then how do I fill them back up?

I know it's probably a stupid question but humor me, I want to make sure I'm thinking along the right lines. I'm assuming I just open the bleeders for all the wheels and let it drain all the way, and then filling it would just be as if doing a brake flush & bleed until all the introduced air is gone, right?

Mann and k&n sticker because fuck it why not

Open bleeds then open mc revoir

A little will dribble when you take things apart but don't flush or blow or anything just let gravity do the bulk and start removing from the top

Also ffs put a new booster mc in

The booster shouldn't need to be replaced. But I do plan on getting a refurbished MC since this one is fucked.

why would you want to do that?

Hmmm, interesting. The universal seat covers appeal more to me anyway, because I can get them as saddle blanket fabric, rather than whatever the fuck the shit is in the picture I posted earlier.

came here to ask this
>looked in archive, user mentioned Benz lost account
what happen?

You've got it out why not replace?

Because I don't see the point when it's still functional? Maybe I'm missing something but the MC is the problem here.

Try to push down on the car at the corners and see how much it bounces. It should bounce once then settle. Most likely worn out shocks/struts not being able to dampen the movement.

If its still wet use kitty litter. if its dry youre fucked.

How do you call this part inside the door? Mine's all scratched up and i'm looking to buy something to cover over it but I don't know what to search

Door sill.

YFW Buick originally designed the nailhead to minimize valve cover gasket leaks.

thank you my nigga

Anytime

You're doing all the work to remove and paint and you're just going to slap the old part back? I'd do it even if the bolts hadn't been torqued to leaking. But whatever if you can afford a vac can why are you even spending money on paint

Because theres nothing wrong with the old part, what the fuck?

I see YouTube faggots redlining their engine by simply mashing up against the rev limiter for minutes at a time. Is this stance level autism or an actual technique? Bad for the car? Any situation where is actually appropriate? Is there a point?

Why are you getting mad. Put your old part back, what could go wrong.

I'm not mad, just confused.