I'm about to put 4 new quarts of conventional oil into my 2012 Fiesta. Can't be fucked to pay $15 extra for synthetic

I'm about to put 4 new quarts of conventional oil into my 2012 Fiesta. Can't be fucked to pay $15 extra for synthetic.

How fucked am I?

Five quart jug of most brand name full synthetic oils currently at my local usa wal-mart for $23 to $25. So when you say synth is $15 more, that's quite a shock. The wal-mart house brand full synth is $17.99 for a five quart jug.

Change it before 3k miles. Conventional will sludge up in these tiny gokart engines.

you just lost 50 torques

Not very just be sure to change sooner than synthetic. It's oil and you changed it, your car won't know the difference.
>Synthetic is probably a waste of money for shitboxes.

this
conventional is 3K miles, full synthetic is between 5 or 7 depending on who you talk to (manufacturers usually say 5). Some people say 10k is still acceptable for full synthetic now.

shame I don't even have the option in my car, I'm running 0W-20

>drive turbo car with 15psi
>owners manual specifies sythethic only
>put conventional

How fucked am I?

Dear christ I hope you have a catch can

You dumb fucking nigger you have no clue what you've just done

say goodbye to your turbo, cams, crank, valves, pistons, A/C compressor, 12v power outlet, steering wheel, and rear passenger side lugnuts

not sure if you guys are being sarcastic or not

anyway, i only have about 1k miles in the conventional oil, should i get an oil change now and replace it with synthethic? or just run it the 3k miles, kinda poor atm desu

Put synthetic, most cars don't need an oil change until at least 7k-10,000miles with synthetic. Fill it up with good oil, pay for it now and earn that piece of mind

I was always taught that 10,000 or so was fine with full synthetic if the car had been fed full synth its whole life.

>91 civic hatch
>d15b6 (HF)

running 10w30 synthetic blend rotella T5 HEAVY DUTY DIESEL OIL and lucas oil Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer

>d series "just burn oil"

eat shit faggots

>How fucked am I?

Some manufacturers have turbo designs that have more "heat soak sludge" than others. So they require full synthetic oil to prevent the heat soak sludge problem. After all, it was the needs of hot running jet engines and racing car engines that caused full synthetic oil to be commercially developed in the first place.

It's easy enough for you to get a jug of full synth oil and do another oil change right away. Allow a longer time period to let the oil drain out. Your oil filter should be replaced too as it has conventional oil in it.

If it were my car, I'd do two full synth oil changes. The first one to get rid of most of the conventional oil. The 2nd one to get rid of the residual conventional oil that was diluted into the full synth oil of the previous change. Why do this extra trouble? Heat soak attacks the conventional oil and makes it gum up, so I used the first full synth change as a flush. I would use a higher detergent full synth to do the flush such as the cheapest full synthetic oil jug. Use that for 10 miles. Then do the 2nd full synth oil and filter change. The 2nd full synth oil change would be to pennzoil ULTRA full synth for the extra detergent action. I'd run that for the next 3000 miles. Then I'd go back to my usual mobil1 full synth.

>drive turbo car with 15psi
>owners manual specifies sythethic only
If you did the oil change yourself, then the car company doesn't know you violated a warranty condition. Oil change companies report data to various databases. If you have a future warranty claim against the power train or engine, the company can point to your violation of the contract.

You do realize oil is designed around the engine right? Throwing anything in it is downright retarded.

what does your engine say to put in? I drive an 02 civic hatch it says 5w-20

I heard my car's engine burns oil, or VTEC burns oil or whatever. 1quart every 1,000 miles

>too cheap to pay twice the price for oil that lasts twice as long
>too retarded to use the recommended oil in the first place

Once it sludges up, can it even be flushed without getting the oil passages plugged up by the gunk? It'd be terrible if the head (and thus the head gasket) has to be removed and wires shoved down the oil passages to unplug things.

>How fucked am I?
you are fine, if you had a turbocharged engine you would need to change it within 3k miles.

If you have variable valve timing engine it might start to get angry, but i wouldn't worry till 5k miles.

>Putting the wrong oil in an already old motor
>not putting 5w30 like its supposed to be
Say good bye to your motor idiot.

>Say good bye to your motor idiot.
No problem. Just sell it to someone else as soon as things start to feel different.