/mg/ - Miata General

I have been looking for a clean NA8 with a LSD for the last 6 months and I haven't found one.

Are they basically impossible to find? It's not like I live in the sticks either, I'm right outside of NYC. It's not even a money issue either, I'm willing to pay up to $8000 for a clean one.

It's just ridiculous that there hasn't been a good one on CL or Facebook since I started looking in April.

I heard water slushing during my drive to work and the passenger footwell is fucking soaked. It even has a puddle, how do I fix this mess?

NA 1989.

What if there's not an MR-S within a reasonable range

NA 1989 as well, the drain is clogged. Take a flathead screwdriver and find what looks like a open pinchweld beneath the driver door and stick the screwdriver up in there and move it around. You're shit at looking M8, join some FB miata groups and start hunting. Or go to the Miata forums and search the classifieds

Nice lol. Prepare for kids putting rocks and other shit in them

Where I live there are mainly old people, so probably just disapproving looks is all I'd get.

Would I be able to fit 16x7 wheels with non-low profile tires on an NA without much issue? Also, what are some good 16 inch wheels for a miata?
Not necessarily good in terms of lightweightness but price and reliability (i.e. not breaking if I ever hit a bump too hard)

Well to keep your speedometer correct you should use a lower profile tire if you're gonna run 16s. You should probably run a 205 40 R16 or 195 45 R16 or something like that

Width wise, 7 inch wheels fit fine with most offsets

Get Kosei K1s

Is there anyone out there that has these garagestar delrin bushings that can do me a huge favor? If someone could take theirs off really quick and take some measurements with some calipers it would be a great help to me.

I need the outer dimensions of the bushing, as well as the length, width and depth of the mounting holes and the space between the two holes. If you can even get me a few of these measurements I can extrapolate the rest.

I've been thinking the same thing. They seem really easy to machine.

Yeah I figured I could just make some up really quick, only issue is getting the measurements and also the cost of delrin. I'm going to probably try them with some UHMG that I have lying around from another project and see how they stack up to stock.

I would but I don't have a caliper :(

The depth of the holes doesn't really matter, the delrin deforms a lot when you mount the bushing. It compresses under the bolt a good 2+ mm. As long as it's deep enough to get whatever bolt you're using in there you should be good

As for the other dimensions, as I said I don't have a caliper. I'll try to find one tho

>that piping
jesus
>delrin deforms a lot
Wouldn't it be better to make these out of aluminum similar to performance engine mounts due to this?

I'd rather use a yellow metal to keep a bit of lubrication going on.

That's a good idea, but you'd have to be extremely accurate with your dimensions. It's hard enough closing these doors with the delrin ones.

I've never touched a mill, so don't get me wrong.
Just that ally likes to either bind or get kill. That said, I very rarely see brass in cars anywhere lol.

Is this something I should pay $150 for, or should I fab up my own using a friends welder?
I already have a hard dog to mount it on.
flyinmiata.com/hard-dog-bolt-in-harness-bar.html


Also what chassis mods would /mtg/ recommend, frame rail bars, rear diff control arm brace thing, fender braces, front strut tower.
All I have are the prev. owners Megan Racing coilovers. Or should I replace those?

I don't think Aluminum would be a good choice of material for the door blocks, because it's too stiff. Delrin is phenomenal because it is incredibly elastic in addition to being very low friction under pressure, so you won't get any squeaks or vibration coming from the doors and they will hold their shape forever. I think the issue with the OEM rubber ones is that they've deformed over the years, so they're no longer nearly as effective. Unfortunately Delrin is remarkably expensive so I'm going to see how some scrap polyurethane with high gravity will hold up.

The more common term is just ITB or Individual Throttle Bodies, so basically, one throttle body for every port.

It's like you're not even trying. Here's five LSD-equipped NBs I found in 30 seconds.

newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/5825366373.html
newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/cto/5824324761.html
newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/5791387705.html
newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/5812772835.html
newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5827172365.html

>not printing your own
thingiverse.com/thing:909662

I said NA8, not NB. There are tons of NBs.

I don't like NBs and they are uncomfortable for me since they're smaller inside.

NB best

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>ITB edition
Independent carbs are more fun though

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>individual runner throttle bodies

The stupidity of miatafags never ceases to amaze.

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Salary the 25th, wonder what I'll get for my car.

Can you explain the differences between the early NB miata (2001-ish) and the later ones? I remember someone mentioned that the newer ones have VVT?

I got some k1s and really like them.

I think it depends on what market you are from. 2001 was the "sport" version released here in Sweden with the 1.8vvt, torsen LSD and 6speed. Earlier came with the 5speed from the NA.

Yes you can. 205/45r16 is the stock 16" size. I think that the stock NB 16" on the NA looks pretty good and they are light and should be cheap.

>IRTBs

those are carbs you retard

Those are not carbs. You can see the fuel rail and the injectors.

Why not a set of sweet 15" instead?

Interestingly enough, all the 2001s I find for sale here have the 1.6 engine, no LSD and a 5-speed. Not sure about VVT because nearly no one lists it on the ad.

VVT and 6 speed is on the 1.8 only.
What country are you from?

kut regen he

>Miata is currently on my trailer, in my father's storage shed, half an hour away from the nearest small town, in the forests of Alabama.

Meanwhile, to compensate, I put a cone filter on my Wrangler and have an exhaust coming Friday.

Lmao this is too weird

I legit thought that's what it stood for, what is it actually?

"No"

Alright, so, I'm looking at the 1996 miata vs a 280zx and I have a few questions
.
From what I know from previously having a 280zx, is that for a sports car, the trunk is huge, the ride is comfy, and it can turn on a dime (used to do U-turns in 2 lane roads).
The miata looks appealing due to it's price and I personally like the look of the NA miata. But from what I've seen, it seems kinda iffy of a daily driver.
For a car that just weighs over a ton with a 1.6L I4 that gets 0-60 in around 6-8s and yet gets like, 22-26 mpg, the I6 in the 280zx gets around the same as that with the car weighing more and producing similar or better specs and stats.
Why is that? I've always heard decent stuff about the engine, mostly for durability, but on paper, looks to be a bit inefficient and slow.

I also live in Texas, so lots of long range driving, how does the miata fair on trips of driving for more than 2-3hours in total? I've heard that the suspension isn't something you wanna be on rough roads with.
I've looked up people's opinions and some say that it gets pretty annoying if you have to drive long distance, but is perfect for a small city or commuter car.

I thought it was the ls edition had the 1.8 engine, LSD, and vvt on the 2001+ models. The sport versions had this plus some suspension and the 6 speed

Croatia

There's no such thing. It's just ITB. Runners is redundant.

It's not tho

Pic related has one throttle body per cylinder, however each leads to a shared intake box. This would be considered an ITB setup, but not an IRTB.

>22-26 mpg
no way man, 1.6 gets about 29-30, 1.8 gets about 27-28 mpg. And the 1.8 is noticeably quicker too, quicker than a 280zx at least. Unless you're in Europe, a 1996 is going to have the 133 hp 1.8L.

The ride isn't bad with stock suspension, but they aren't really road trip cars. Too much wind and road noise.

>2003 viabrates like a bitch at idle
>it's not a rough or lumpy idle, it just vibrates a lot.
>touch the pedal to let it idle at 1k and it's smooth as fuck

i did a full tune up already, including plugs and plug wires and ignition coils, so what's left? Just the motor mounts?
what if i do motor mounts and it's still vibrating idle?
i've heard a somewhat dirty throttle body can cause this, deposits build up and the throttle body chokes air a bit...

My '96 does the same thing. I think these engines just resonate with the chassis at that rpm and it vibrates the car. You could always raise your idle a little

Anyone know if this would drop right in? Or what cuts would likely have to be made?

> pic related

You're legit retarded. That's called a plenum it has nothing to do with the throttle bodies.

How long have you been into cars, all of 6 months? Can you just accept that you're not going to always be right?

what's weird is i've read of plenty of people with super smooth idles at 800-900 so it's not like an intrinsic property of all miatas

Im thinking about buyin a Miata and DDing it in the winter.

here are my choices, what do you lads think?

>1990 Mazda Miata
>$4000
>140k miles

(pic related)

newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5821017278.html

>1992 Mazda Miata
>$4995
>90k miles

boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/5798640914.html

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nigga NO

>Tabloid clickbait
>Actual source for anything
k

nigga YES

Thank you so much, I never even thought to check thingiverse. I don't have a printer but I can definitely work with this.

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I'm just repeating something that I read dude, calm the fuck down.

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You don't need anything for this mod. Take the stock cups that the stock door bushings fit into, and put them into a bench vice. Then, very slowly and at small increments, take special care to compress the cup. Then put it back on the door until it fits snug.

I don't see why people spend money on this shit. The stock bushings are rubber with a steel skeleton.

Why the fuck don't you just make your own from the current rubber door bushings?

whats next lmao
>individual runner manifold throttle bodies
muh IRMTB's =^)

rev9autosport.com/jenvey-individual-throttle-body-irtb-kit.html

>IRTB

I ran across this but this is the only place I've seen them called IRTBs

Anyone else running Integrated Turbo Boost in their miata?

No, but if you ever track your miata be sure you have Interior Tumble Bracing.

bump i need an answer

buy good snow tires and any miata would do, although try and buy a 1.8 over a 1.6

Just bought this cute 94 miata today. No rust on the body, 126k miles, the only real issue is a single dent, all for $1500. I'm so damn happy, especially after getting fucked over by 2 other miata owners in the past week. I even managed to drive it home with very little knowledge of driving standard. I'm so eager to register it

Did I do good Veeky Forums?
I might do an oil change tomorrow, what kind of oil do you recommend?
My camera sucks at low light pictures, fuck the S5.

>$1500
oh shit that's gud as fuck

My NB is crystal blue with a tan interior. I'm getting a black fixed corbeau and seat belt brace next week. What color harness would look best? Going with a 5pt cam lock design

>black
>tan
>light blue
nothing will match
go with yellow or something simple like black

Vibration damper?

I'm thinking of spending $7000 on a 96 NA with 75k miles

Is that too much or fair for a clean one?

i dont know where you live but this is a '96 NA with 50k miles for $5.5k

boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/5804058723.html

That one has no LSD so I don't want it

Fuck you guys for making me want a 25 year old car.

Isn't an LSD like $500?

Has anyone done a 6 speed to 5 speed swap themselves? Just wondering how feasible it would be.

Are Yes, but nobody on Veeky Forums can even work on cars. I swapped an LSD in my base model, took like 4-5 hours so not that bad.

lancaster.craigslist.org/cto/5839245248.html

What would a fair price for this car be? $5000 or so?