/hg/ 本田

Honda General
>stock radios edition

Toyota Sister Thread
Honda Chassis Codes
superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1312-honda-chassis-code-checklist/

Vids:

>S2k hatch in CRX
youtu.be/BAIfQoSlTHs

>Honda Insight cluster
youtube.com/watch?v=n5OxUs_bdyQ

>user adds more rice things
youtube.com/watch?v=Riij26fULZc

>Thread theme
youtube.com/watch?v=ixYVhVhorHY

>user's night commute
youtube.com/watch?v=lEhfVgjvZEI&feature=youtu.be

>Shingu's shenanigans
youtube.com/watch?v=1sogy3whI88

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youtube.com/watch?v=uhMAZnz_odc&feature=youtu.be
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Just 3 more !

>(((six))) inch wide wheels

Reposting my dumb question:

Clean looking eg hatch shell, how much is reasonable to offer? 400?

If I put in a B series motor (maybe from a donor) could the car be made to run, under a grand?

am I looking at a wheel, or a fan clutch?

>under a grand
Very unlikely unless the parts are all used too

>not making your own wheels out of used parts

lookin fresh, fuck the coreys

For some reason the b16 goes for multiple thousands, but something like the b20b can be had between 400-600, why is that?

I mean...20 is higher than 16. Is b20b just not viable for the hatch?

B16 is a rarer engine and makes about the same power as the b20b. Which B16 are you talking about?

I do like the wheels except it's 6 inches wide.
7" mass turd raise

B16a or b.

Cursory research tells me if I wish to go forward, the b20 is the direction I will go in. I'm pretty confident because all I really think I'll need is to scavenge some integras for b series parts. Hopefully that didn't jinx me

Is there any reason this plan is stupid? I might just be excited over a relatively cheap winter project

I bought a b20z2 for $150 bucks.
The tricky part will be getting a tranny for cheap.
Your plan will work. B16 revs higher and has vtak, and the heads are desirable for type r clone motors. B20 is really good because of torque and is cheap cause mass produced. Only problem is that b20 has thin sleeves so it doesn't take forced induction as happily

best wheels

I think this fell off my car. No idea what it is

aliens

Kinda looks like a fuel pump cover

be spooped and check the suspensions and engine bay. it may just be a hosing/wire holder.
ive had hosing/wire holder fall out more than once.

>.tfw some of our cars can't handle more than 6" without tearing off the bumpers and fenders
what ever

>"omg it's less than 8 inches!"

Wtf is this photo? Was this specially made for 4chin or something?

Its the wire cover from the radiator or condensor fan

kek
enjoy your 185 section width tires
you will never go fast

>he fell for the CF48 meme

I doubt user was planning to track the thing.

We're not talking about cocks fggt

>track
>not tearing up the togue

Need some advice,
I have a friend with an eg hatch that was hit in the front and only the core support was damaged. The car has now been sitting around for two years in his garage and I'm thinking about picking it up as a project car, the car has already been swapped with a b18c1 and gsr trans, it's on coilovers and has a few other little mods. My question is what would be a reasonable offer, I've been think somewhere around 800-1000$ my estimate would be about 500$ to get the car back on the road and 1500$ to make it everything I want. Any advice is welcome.

Yea $1k sounds good. It depends on your friend

>lost my Honda in a hit and run cause the faggot couldn't keep his distance
>Only had it for 6 months

Why do people drive so fucking close? I can't drive 10 mph over the speed limit everywhere I go. Tailgating doesn't make the lane go faster.

He's been a friend for a long time and I know the car has been taken care of pretty well, the occasional hooning but not raced. My dream is to clone a spoon sports eg and turbo it.

Sorry to hear that user. Was it in the collage?

No, I was thinking of adding it though before :(

My Honda is pissing me off lately. Door lock deal broke on the driver's side which wouldn't be a huge deal except i deliver pizza for a living. Stupid car. Can't wait to park it for the winter.

You could get a d16y7 and a trans and axles aaannnd ecu for like 250 bucks if you don't care that it would be slow. You probably care though.

Door lock deal what?

That sounds pretty neat user. As long as you're confident you can do it I don't see why not.

No fucking way you are going to get a GSR motor and tranny for 1k

If you offer that to your friend and he takes it, you are a bad friend.

The tranny alone is worth about 5-600 if it has no grinds

The door is stuck shut so now I've had to tear the door panel back off, with the door closed, for the second time. Other time the retard PO just put one bolt in the window instead of two so it fell off.

Right now I'm trying to use a pick in the lock mechanism to get the door open

He's already considered the offer as doable, the main reason I want it is because it has sentimental value to me from the times before he became an out of control drug addict. Now he won't get a licence for 5 years and he knows the car deserves better than just sitting around. The reason I offered that much is because I've found other eg's with a gsr swap to be around 2100 in my area, and it needs about 1000 in work.

completely totaled, how did they drive away from that?

>implying
my ek4 has 6.5" wide wheels..you can go maybe 7" wide without having to modify the fenders on older civics/crx, wich imo is absolutely haram

this.

7" doesn't rub

lel..i would worry about different things than the tire rubbing on your shitheap

Approximately what year is it okay to own a Honda/Acura where you don't have to sleep with one eye open in fear of it being stolen? I always thought it was post EK civic for Honda and post RSX for Acura.

try post em1, es1, and ep3.

Depends on where you live to be honest. I'm fairly confident I could leave my windows open in my EG and it wouldn't be stolen. I only ever hear about trucks getting stolen because Louisiana.

I live in the Bay Area, California. Only an hour or so drive from San Jose, the mecca city for stolen Hondas and Acuras. I would love a GSR or EK hatch but I know it would be stolen anywhere I park it.

i'm still weirded out how trucks aren't stolen that often in nc.

9th gen civics is where you start. They break in to 8th gen civics now

do and it wont be.
more trashy the less likely it will be stolen.

I would, but I am triggered by rust, I am selling my 240sx because of it.
That's tragic because the 8th gen SI is within budget and pretty affordable.

>actually owning a 240sx
how hasent that been stolen? those are like fucking unicorns these days. people steal fucking 80s rusty 200sx in nc.
only si and ex trims and mostly coupes. i blame fnf.

It might vary geographicly. I live in the Chicagoland area. Lurk your local Honda Jew book page.

It's an automatic and left completely stock. Maybe that's why? I only ever hear of the modified ones being stolen.

still the one stock one i know someone with from an anime con in my state is an auto and its been stolen 3 times now.

ok its only stock if you ignore the anime slaps all over but still it gets stolen even with those.

Thats perplexing. Maybe because the stickers I left on it from the previous owner show that it belongs to someone working in the US Department of Defense has been a deterrent.

>tfw f a m updates to often making your trip not work
fuck it. c12 is now where my car is.
also what do i do if my car makes a whining noise like a supercharger when i release throttle as vtec kicks? before anyone asks there is no supercharger there.

do you guys use a torque wrench when working on an engine?

Needs trans fluid service

Of course

well fuck, i guess i need to check the hosing for trans coolant for the auto and buy another torque wrench. unless adapters are actually worth it, are they?
also how do i tell if its the tranny or not. its coming from right in front of the dash.

Check the fluid level, remove the drain plug if the trans and put your a white paper towel in there. If there isn't fluid immediately as soon as you put it in, it's low. See what color the fluid is on the paper towel good trans fluid should be light translucent red ish in color.
If you have a trans dip stick, it's easier

trans fluid is fine. surprisingly no burns as well. slight milky hot pink colour. trans stick has it only slightly low, though its been that way for a while.

Aside from the exhaust, this crx looks pretty neat, I'd totally buy it for a grand.

If I were to do so, what kinds of engine swap would the car accept? Something to make a peppy, fast/fun dd? I don't need to push 400 horses.

Would B series be too much?

B series would be perfect for your criteria m8

Anyone ever done valve adjustment?
I did it on my k24 earlier today, was a pain in the ass on the exhaust side and I think the ticking got louder. Any tips?

Honestly a vtec D16 would suit you fine, small increase in power over stock and it will be way, way cheaper to put in than a b series. B16s and B18s are getting in to the thousands of dollars, it's ridiculous when you can get a complete swap including wiring harness of a low miles D16 from a junkyard for a quarter of the price. Hell, spend the money you save doing a low boost turbo build, you can probably have 150-175 to the wheels super reliably which would make a crx scoot pretty well. Any more power and things will start breaking, it's a near 30 year old shitbox and it wasn't particularly sturdy from the factory.

Why are these different?

Just from like 5 minutes on eBay it looks like a B20 or D16 would be the cheapest, but why does the D16 cost more? Is it not older?

Which b20 and which d16 are you talking about?

Probably an access point to something

Just looked it up
It's for the Honda adaptive cruise control sensor

Pretty much just the first 4 on eBay to be honest. This, Vs

This.

Where/what should I be looking at?

Paint doesn't perfect, but eh. I planned on further reshelling it anyway.

I found a CA6 with a BT in it too.

...

Needs new seats mayne

What's so special about a BT?

I have this car with a b18c1 in it.

Depending on your skills it will accept D or B readily, and with a little modification accept an H.

This car with a GSR motor with I/H/E absolutely roasts the wheels in first and second gear has monster torque steer when you hammer it.

This guy has no idea what he's talking about as far as things breaking. He's just spreading FUD.

If you are going to buy a first gen CRX, check for rust near or on the panhard bar mount and near the torsion bar mounts. Rust in either one of these areas is pretty much fatal.

If you have any questions let me know

B or d16/17 will do fine just d series is gonna be cheaper.
>Ticking
I haven't worked on one but can't a damaged camshaft cause some of the ticking? Only thing i know of for d series breaking is that they eat engine mounts for most of them. Wide range of natural frequency can fuck shit up but its shouldn't be an issue for how long he will keep it.

I have a physics degree and what you just said makes literally no sense

Make sure you are adjusting the lash when everything is hot and using hot clearances

It's important

Ok bud if you think a fucking CRX can handle upwards of 200hp while staying as reliable as stock you're fucking stupid. That's almost double the power of the stock engine on a 1986. It was made to be super light weight and cheap. Honda kids are so delusional.

>Not understanding natural frequency of materials
>Physics degree
Your bullshitting me. Large vibrations from d6/17s during idle converge to the natural frequency of the motor mounts resulting in premature degradation and early yeild cracks. this is thanks to lack of proper dampening at the bay that caused multiple recalls which replaced these said mounts with one with a much larger yeild point and with some of the models with new/different dampeners. The engine vibrations in some converged hard enough to go past the yeild point of the mounts grounding the engine. Honda had a couple recalls because of this these reports of cracked passenger side motor mounts particularly in 2001. This is intro to phys stuff user.

According to dealers at the time, the BT was basically a JDM A20A. It came in the LX-I along side the A20A3. I sure as shit didn't have one, they usually come in the LX-I hatch.

It's basically the ZC for the Accord. 120hp/113tq.

Add my rekt 95 Civic to the collage please

Got t-boned in August can't part with it yet

The damage

You could but it would need a lot of body work to control well at those speeds. Mostly sealing body panels to get less air drag. Then lots of insulation and suspension work.

Were they stamped with a newer code? I always thought the 120hp A20a was just an update for 88/89

Also the only CA I'd own.

Also fucking love being single, I just spent three weeks working, come back home and find I've got half a dozen dates to set up and a few hook ups.
A few actually wanna travel with me, but I told them we'd be stuck with rather awkward sex because I'm bunking with other people.
>But we could just wander into the forest with a blanket...

HoA/Mugen raced a stripped 85 CRX with nearly 200hp just fine, they just added a roll cage.
Being made to be super light and cheap doesn't mean it wasn't built well.

The BT was in the 86/87 with that power. Could have been their test pig.
>tfw pick up Vermont chicks in an Outback

>tfw pick up Vermont chicks in an Outback
How's that working out?
My plans are to sell the Jetta, the beetle, and maybe the MG B and pick up either a ej22 5spd or a some 4wd jap pick up. Not the sexiest of cars.
>Talking with chick at work
>>Yea he drives a tiny piece of shit car way to fast, I've asked him to leave me on the side of the road because of it
>W-what car?
Feeling self conscious of the CRX.
>>Hyundai, its so fucking small and he drives it like a race car
>Oh. ok. I like small cars.


Fucking women and wanting SUV's and trucks. Get your ass outa here.

...

Ew.
youtube.com/watch?v=uhMAZnz_odc&feature=youtu.be

Any of you nerds have HX wheels? If so, where'd you get them?

Planing to salvage parts from it into a cheaper one of the same chassis or no?
Im not saying it wasn't built well, just that it wasn't built for those specs in mind.