QTDDTOT: The place you ask retarded questions

no you shouldn't be driving on them at all

dry rotted

Not even looking at the date code,Those are shot, plus they're some Chink brand so doubly so.

I know they're bad, I have new ones ready to put on. But I'm doing the bushings at the moment, and I was kinda curious as to how old they actually were.

Any local recommendations for buying a new transmission (or its components) near Chicago, Illinois?

Sorry, I meant new as in replacement, can be used or whatever

Whats a good price to ask?

1994 f150 XLT 4x4 i6 auto 192kmi
PW, PL, lumbar support
Two 2 gas tanks, freshly painted frame, transmission rebuilt by Ford only has 80k miles

What's the best way to fix scratches on your car? Assholes keep marking up my girlfriend's car and all the shit I see seems "As Seen On TV" tiers of trustworthy

Try buffing it out, whatever does not come out is to deep to make look good again without a lot of work

>mfw I've spent $1,200 on brakes for my D21 within 3k miles
>ABS/Brake light is starting to come on now at certain times while driving

I know that buying a new truck would be more expensive but fuck me this shit shouldn't be happening within such a short period of time/miles, I don't haul anything heavy and I don't slam on my brakes... I don't get it

...

have you actually, yknow, checked the electrics? It's more than likely a fault in a sensor or the loom.

My car has 125k miles on it. I've always used conventional oil since 70k when I bought it. Will switching to synthetic now harm anything or is that just a meme?

Need some advice,
I have a friend with an eg hatch that was hit in the front and only the core support was damaged. The car has now been sitting around for two years in his garage and I'm thinking about picking it up as a project car, the car has already been swapped with a b18c1 and gsr trans, it's on coilovers and has a few other little mods. My question is what would be a reasonable offer, I've been think somewhere around 800-1000$ my estimate would be about 500$ to get the car back on the road and 2000$ to make it everything I want. Any advice is welcome.

Pic related when I got it

Is this parts or did you take it to a garage

If the core support is damaged what it mounts to is damaged...I had what I thought was a minor bend on my bumper that actually bent both frame rains in

I accidentally ran full synthetic in a 1984 D150 with no problem (it always leaked oil fairly quickly so I would just get the cheapest oil and change every 2k when it was low)

Just ask at your local parts store they should have a recommendation

Check the build date (Google it if you don't know how). Expect it to be off brand tires with no warranty, wich for winter tires doesn't really matter.

From what we can tell it was just the core support, granted I haven't measure everything out we just pulled the support out straight in hopes that if something bent we would bend it back then drilled out the spot welds and took off the support. We dry fitted a new one on and it seems to line up well. But we would have to buy all the other body panels to be sure.

Wait so your working on the car and haven't purchased or made an offer for it...your going to end up fixing it then he will keep it

No all this was about a year ago, he ended up becoming heavy addicted to drugs and ended up getting his licence suspended for 5 years. He's really loves the car but knows it deserves better, that's why I want to buy it, I get the car I have sentimental value for and he can pay off his lawer.

i want a sporty rwd or 4wd car with a manual, winter warrior, rally build, whatever.

i'm gonna throw down 3k about for the car, what should i be looking for?

impreza might fit the deal but i just want to know what you guys think.

I was originally looking for a Japanese dd, something sporty, fast(ish), fun to drive, may readily accept mods or even a swap, and great on mileage, for around 1-1.5k.

Not a whole lot of options in my area, but here's a 2000 mustang in need of a clutch, what does Veeky Forums think? Will it check my boxes?

westmd.craigslist.org/cto/5844505041.html

Besides the Japanese part, obviously

What wheels look good on a 2001 BMW 320i?

steelies

But I already have factory alloys, wouldnt steelies be heavier? also, what do you call those steelies with no holes in them at all?

Keep your factory alloys then. It's just a 320i.

If you can fit smaller steel wheels they will most likely be lighter than the alloys anyway. Never seen wheels without holes. They need ventilation.
You get hubcaps like that, but people use those for mpgs

They definitely do exist. There are a few styles of wheels with no holes.

What's the upkeep on a pre 2010 Lexus ls like? Good daily for under 20k?

Have 06 Torrent, just recently changed the blower motor and components because no air was blowing. Now the heating is sporadic, goes from hot to cold and back again. What could he the problem?

How do I to drive myself a manual and learn myself? Is it hard too much to learn myself?

What do you think about Audi Q7s? I heard these things are pretty reliable.

I guess you asked how hard it is to learn manual, buddy? Well, it depends on how interested you are. I came to know about the whole process within like 2 days.

Why is there chalk writing all over the road in every nurbugring video I've seen? Do people that live near there hop the fence and write shit on track?

Went to start my car this morning and it started fine but shut off a half second later. It now won't fire up, just cranks.

Full tank of gas, battery is fine although it was getting drained trying to start the car over and over.

Any ideas?

If you know the mechanics of driving manual all you need is practice, watch a video if you have no idea what you're doing.

Once you can get into 1st without an issue and practice hill starts, you should go into traffic to really get practical experience.

Check to see of you are getting spark. Sounds like you blew your ECU.

heater core sounds like it's blocked or bad since you do have some hot air sometimes. sounds like the core is getting hot then cooling too fast then repeating the process; could also be the blend door sticking, it's actuator going bad, or possibly the thermostat. However if it was your thermostat you would have other engine heating problems
Step 1: replace the thermostat (they're cheap), flush the cooling system
if step one doesn't work, i'd recommend replacing the heater core and its hoses

>ABS
>D21
>giving any shits it's broken
no, no you could have bought another D for that price
I call shenanigans
>t. 91' D21 owner with no ABS

>wants pic related
>finds
>'00 'Stang for $1k
that's a check
>sporty
can't turn memes incoming
>fast-ish
not with a 3.7L V6, have fun being BTFO by soccer moms in crossovers
>fun
it is a convertible; but you are in maryland, half check
>will take swap and mods
check, you'll need them
>good empeegees
see: V6, that's a check
result: 3.5 out of 6 chkeks
verdict: get something less boomer/white trash or fix and flip it immediately for xtra AE86 money

Which one of the following cars would you get and why? Let's just say they are all in good condition and not overpriced.

>2011 Lancia Musa 1.4 16V Oro (manual)
>2011 Honda Jazz 1.4 i-VTEC Elegance (manual)
>2012 Chevrolet Aveo 1.3 D LTZ (manual)
>2008 Honda Civic Hybrid (CVT)
>2010 Honda Insight Elegance (CVT)
>2008 VW Passat 2.0 FSI Highline (DSG)
>2008 Volvo C30 1.6 (manual)

the answer is obvious

all these cars hurt my soul but I'd get the C30, it's the only thing resembling a hot hatch on the list
>also 5 cylinder whiteblock swap to replace the sad 1.6
runner up: Passat

i have shocks like pic related

would adjusting be a case of undoing the allen bolt and turning?

Yes...but its already very close to your tire and will only get closer if you lower it

thanks
that pic was taken when they were first put on, they are not installed correctly there (needed spacers) and you are right about the rubbing

once last one
for the rears, would it be the same case
(note in this pic I believe they are also set to max)

reposting from my other thread:

My car had a rattle right in front of me, which I traced to the instrument cluster. I took off the shroud that covers the instrument cluster (I didn't take out the cluster itself), and stuffed some microfiber rags all around the cluster. I put the shroud back on, and now the rattle is gone.

However, I didn't really consider what is below and behind the instrument cluster. Is there a steering component that the rags might fall down onto, or is that partitioned off? Also, is the only thing behind the instrument cluster the firewall to the engine bay? I just don't want to have some microfiber rags shake themselves loose and fall down onto something bad.

Thanks.

UK poorfag here. I earn about £750 a month, and after paying for rent/utilities, food, phone, gym and music subscriptions I have about £100 left for the month. I've been cycling to work, but now I need a car. What would you recommend? I have a couple thousand in savings, but I don't know if I should dip into that. Could I buy some new shitbox and pay for it over years, or should I buy some really old shitbox used at once? I checked the sticky, but it seems outdated and very NA-centric. It's worth adding that I'm 18, not in school or uni, and it will be my first car, so insurance is going to be very expensive.

Thanks for the help

Damn, well good thing these cars are cheap enough.

It's not that I like the 03+ rims better it's just a pain for me to find similar offset wheels.

wtf is this ricer shit

its not ricer
its for an e36, couldnt get oem shocks to had to go for coilovers as a temp solution

>that sway bar link angle

i'd love to see what your outer tie rods look like

>muh bumpsteer

My 2002 automatic dodge neon will rev without going into gear, almost like I'm in neutral and pushing on the throttle.

I recently put a serpentine belt on my power steering, and replaced the idler pulley, for which task I took out a bolt and jacked the motor up out of the car, then replaced. I have yet to really adjust and tighten that belt, am lazy

I'm thinking I probably fucked up my motor mounts, pls laugh and point me in the right direction, br/o/s

My car sounds like its idling pretty shitty half the time i drive it. It usually only happens when it barely starts. Itll start and the computer will set my rpms to like 1.5k (normally idles around 1k in park) and slowly work it down to around 1k. When this happens it sounds like it almost dies if i go below 5mph. If i hit the gas aftwr that it jumps, rather than slowly speeding up. Already replaced plugs a month ago, and my timing isnt off. I dont have too much experience or knowledge, but im trying to learn more. Any ideas as to what the issue(s) could be?

Update on issue: when the car is in motion, the fans blow heat but when the car is at a stop, cold air blows.

so in drive it just revs? check your transmission fluid level, the forward clutches in the trans arent engaging. if it happened RIGHT after changing the mounts, thats a coincidence. if its some time after, your trans might be blown or its low on fluid

check for vacuum line leaks and check your coolant temperature sensor. i had a 1988 Nissan KingCab that would flood and choke out on warm starts unless you hit the gas for 5 seconds after starting it then it was fine, coolant temperature sensor connector was broken off so it flooded the engine warm

Fluid is just a bit low but I'm coming up on the 190k mark... probably needs changed.

I guess that's the easy solution, if that doesn't help then I know something is seriously wrong

I had the same style on my e30. They worked fine when I owned it. Looks like you have 4-5 inches of adjustment in the front and 3 in the back. I say lower it all the way and borrow a fender roller from your local chic tire shop.

Low coolant. The coolant manages to splash into the heater core when your moving, but when stopped it can't reach

You definately cannot afford a car. Just get a small motorbike or moped nigger

>what the literal fuck?
besides the obvious fire hazard? as long as it's above the cluster it should be fine?
>read: you're going to die in a fire, why didn't you use glue or tape?

>splash
this would also mean that your cooling system isn't pressurized, so get a new radiator cap

do silicone coolant hoses function better (cooling ability, resistance to heat and oil, timeframe for service life, etc.) than conventional rubber ones?
more specifically, would it be good to get one for the engine coolant intake for extra cool?

cool thanks
its been set up by a proper shop but its sitting 30mm low all around and its too low for the city

>Just get a small motorbike or moped nigger

Wouldn't the insurance on that be really high?

Does a exhaust leak cause it puff out a bit of smoke from the exhaust?
>Pic related was found at a Subaru convention

I'm concerned about that brake line on the left

How easy is it to replace the dash lighting on a Honda Civic?

Also any other opinions on this?
swv.craigslist.org/cto/5783708013.html

I'm planning on inspecting it in a day or two. Heard that they're pretty reliable.

Pic related is my fuel pump, off a 97 miata.
How do I get this bag off?

If I bought a running 99 neon what could I do for 1.5k to get the most goesfast out of it?

I want it because they look nice (Imo) and I've had an 04 neon as my dd for about 8 years, love em, get close to 39 mpgs.

It's time to buy one and fuck it up at the track. I remember them being cool when I was a teenager in the 90s, surely someone has done something with the neon

Turns out you can just buy new ones.
So, new dumb question, I got the new pump switched over, and when I turn the key, I don't hear it prime, but when I try to start it, I can hear the pump whirring, but the car doesn't start, and the pump keeps makeing the whirring noise for a second after I stop trying. Double checked all fuses and I just got a new main relay, too. I think the old pump was broken because it didn't make any noise at all, but I don't get why I'm still not starting.

you probably need to prime it a lot more. on my se-r it takes forever if I lose pressure.

when it happens to me I turn the key enough to hear the pump whine but not enough to start. repeat that for a good 10 min then see if it starts.

also make sure your battery is charged up/not bad

What do you mean when you say to prime it for 10 minutes? Just leave the key on run? Also, my battery should be fine, we tried jump starting it just to see if it was the battery, but the starter is starting up fine every time. I'm getting spark on every plug, new plugs and wires, checked every fuse, checked the fuel filter and injectors, just replaced the pump in it too and main relay, I've got oil pressure, I don't know what else to test

naw it will only spin for 10 sec, so you need to keep turning the key on and off but dont start it just make the pump spin.

how good is the Toyota echo in terms of common issues/reliability and steering

How hard is it to change a timing chain on a 4th gen Celica? Would it be worth getting it?

www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/noranda/cars-vans-utes//1126758147

So in order to run the pump I had to make a jumper in the diagnostic box, let it run for about 10 minutes but still no go. Gonna let it run some more, maybe 20 minutes be different

Still nothing. I give up.

Is there a sporty, economical, pseudo shitboxy car I can keep a lookout for?

ATM I have the

>MR2
>CRX
>Celica

in mind. Got 1500 to drop now, price range goes up by about 700 monthly, so by tax time I could at about 10k, but I'm not sure I'm in the market for any car costing that much.

I need guidance

Why does RX7 cost more than RX8? What's wrong with RX8?

you need to check injector pulse, if you have spark and fuel pressure then the only other possibilities are injectors arent opening or engine mechanical

>sporty, economical, pseudo shitboxy
>Heeheehee 1500

>Tiburon?
>ZX2? Borderlining...
>Miata with beat up bodywork
>Pretege

Maybe, I mean cheaper is better but I'm regularly putting money in my "fun car" jar.

I just have nothing in mind, I've failed y/o/u

Anyone?

Just a meme. The only things to do would be one short change with a cheap synth (say, 2k miles) then change with a good synth and filter. Plenty of detergents in synth, which will clean up your internals... Related to that, any leaks you have may get worse since sludge could be plugging it. With that lower mileage though I wouldn't worry unless you don't maintain your vehicle

How do I buy a used car?

Do I just go to the dealer and write a check for the exact price he's selling it for?

Why do modern vehicles have struts instead of self contained shocks? Working on my truck I quickly realized what a pain in the ass struts are, I remember on my old Ford Ranger the shocks was standalone with the coil spring instead being contained by the lower control arm which made shock changes a breeze. IOW why are struts a thing?

Have '02 Malibu.

Whenever I apply the brakes to slow down, not abruptly, the car shakes as if a tire is flopping around. What could be the problem?

You can do that, but you can usually haggle the price down a little. If you find anything wrong with the car you can also ask them to fix it

Probably fucked up rotors

>rotors

I'll check it out, thanks.

Will trans fluid start draining when I remove the speedometer cable drive gear? No t-case.

If I buy this guy's 96 civic shell which previously housed a b18, can I just drop in a b20? What would I need to change?

i've got to change my valve cover gasket, should i change my spark plug gaskets as well? how do i know if theyve gone bad?

im planning to change them myself, it would be 25 bucks extra for the spark plug gaskets

if your steering wheel shakes, its your front brake rotors, if the car shakes but no steering wheel shake you can be sure its not the front

Looking at my brother's car, says it seems to have trouble getting into gear, check trans fluid, can't see anything on dipstick.

Which is most likely:
>zero fluid in car
>leak
>dipstick doesn't go where it needs to