I need that chart for the best prices / dorito cars.
How would a volvo 240 fair for both daily driving and some fast cornering/speeding on the highway at night.
I don't need to win against a v8 mustang i'm not racing I just want comfortable fun that I can daily drive without paying for 11 mpg.
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You need to make coilovers fur the front, fur the backs most people use revalved billsteins, the stock suspension is literally 80lb springs with shit dampers.
After that maybe some wider wheels and fresh tires and you'll be good handling wise.
Some people run the 260 sway bars as they are stiffer and some people double up the rear sway bars.
Wheel pattern is 5x108 which kinda sucks not many options but you can use adapters to go 114.3 and then you have hella options.
Mine wasn't too economical and probably only got 18-20mpgs but it was fun in the rain or snow. It is comfortable to drive as long as the seats aren't blown out, the handling isnt the tightest but you can still easily muscle it around. They are also relatively cheap to maintain if you do most of the work yourself. I loved mine though, want to v8 swap one eventually
Is there something else in this price bracket you'd recommend over the 240 in terms of economy/reliability versus mpgs
Old BMW and old Mercedes would be my rec senpai, 190e or e30, maybe sc300/400 or LS400
You can go plenty fast with no traffic at night. With the automatic, turn overdrive off and attack the hills.
The problem is it has no LSD and they are expensive to fit. I span out once on the Royal Nasho. In a straight line of course. They are incredibly hard to control when they lose traction
these would be more expensive to fix though
>turning a dd into your project
shiggy diggy
>They are incredibly hard to control when they lose traction
Lol gonna wait for somebody to post the webm
Honestly once the suspension is done up it'll be a totally different car, the stock shit is trash.
Doable with an old Volvo
If you're doing your own repairs it shouldn't make much difference, rock auto and junkyard parts are cheap.
it was mostly reliable and maybe the 700 series Volvos have a bit better economy, also manual and the newest model year you can find (94 for the 240 and 89 or 90 for the 740 I think) I dont have a good recommendation other than that, I drive a fwd shitbox now, waiting for the snow to hoon in 4x4
Not if you don't have a spare car. But if you're a neet that doesn't need to be anywhere the next day, go for it.
Get a Ford Sierra with at least the twin cam engine and git gud
I did it and got everywhere I needed to.
For 3+ years. Just fixed the important things before driving it hard... timing belt etc.
Was an interference engine with high compression. They are reliable as fuck
The only twincam engine in the Sierra was the YB series.
Head to turbobricks. You'll soon find out.
>Volvo redblock
>interference engine
What.
why not just get a miata?
The high compression versions are interference.
Way better to drive than the other NA redblocks.
Torquier
>Royal Nasho
I high sided my cbr900 there a long time ago. Ah, memories
My '90 245 has been a rolling work in progress and DD for the past 4+ years.
Just get all your ducks in a row and do the bigger fixes over a weekend. Nothing with redblocks take more than a weekend if you know what you're doing and have all the parts ready.
18-20mpg is typical with an auto (AW70) around town; I get as much as 25 highway with mine. You can get better mileage with a manual, but they don't hold up to power and aggressive driving.
700/900s are just as reliable, the only other thing to look out for is the Noise Suppression Relay which is basically an additional fuel injection relay.
240 ran until '93 and the 700 until '92 (was supposed to replace the 240). The 900 series, introduced in '90 is the same as the '90-92 740, but the sedans had updated rears. '95 was the end of the 940 and the redblock, 960 with the inline 6 went from '91 to '95, but was renamed the S90 and V90 '96-'98.
So a volvo for tuning up / DD is better as automatic? Haven't heard that one before.
Well initially, but there are several shops that make an adapter plate to swap in a Tremec T-5 from Mustangs and Camaro/Firebirds, a much better trans than Volvo's M46 or M47.
I wouldn't shy away from a clean 240 because of the transmission; manuals are harder to come by anyway.
>700/900s are just as reliable
I know that, I was saying that maybe the 700 was more economical on fuel because of its slightly smaller aerodynamic profile
Gotcha. Yeah, the 7/900s have less drag, despite also being a brick.
mech.kth.se
How expensive is it to turbo a 240?
im assuming you have a KA?
better to just drop an SR in it if we're being completely realistic desu
really comfortable seats. weak engine. rwd fun in snow tho
think he means a volvo
the redblocks are pretty much interchangeable you just need to swap the wiring in too. not hard at all
A few hundred bucks.
Cheapest way would be pulling the parts yourself at the junkyard.
>Pull turbo, exhaust manifold, DP, IC+piping, EZK + ECU computer boxes from a turbo 940
>Injectors from an 850 turbo
>tap stock B230F for oil return (already has embossment)
>extend air mass meter wiring
>????
>Profit
There's butloads of info regarding it on Turbobricks.
Wouldn't you also need the pistons?
I imagine a turbo motor would have different pistons
The B230FT has lower compression and sodium filled valves, but turboing a B230F N/A motor is fine, the only modification needed is tapping the block, or oil pan.
Bricks are for road trips and camping not trying to drift like some retard