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>Snow Miata Edition

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Previous Thread
FAQ:
can I fit?
>if you're under 6'2" and aren't overweight you can fit without modification

can I daily drive one?
>yes most people can daily drive a miata no problem. I have commuted in miatas for 2 years now

even in the snow?
>yes miatas can drive well in the snow (with four snow tires)

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/nl3w9XsyzX0
topeka.craigslist.org/cto/5851823251.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

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I'm looking at an $850 1996 miata today that has been sitting for a while. An old man owns it an wants it gone. Apparently the price is low because of "lifter tick", I'm suspecting that all the oil drained out of the HLAs while it was sitting.

If this thing ends up being in ok condition it'll be a deal.

Lifter tick is no big deal, definitely buy that shit

I'm about to take the top of my engine, going to replace the timing belt. Should I just unscrew everything or should I put the engine in a certain position before removing the sensors? I have a 02' with VVT.

wow user that is truly le epic ftw rofl shoop da whoop

ok figured I repost this since i deleted it in the other thread.

Just purchased this Miata this week.

Still not sure if I want to daily it for the winter.

If I do I guess I'd need winter tires, a hardtop and to spray some fluid film on the underbody or I could just get a winter beater. that comes with ac/heat.

What do you guys think?

(no I didn't pay $4500 for it.)

more pics to follow

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Do not drive it in the winter. A car as special and in as good condition as yours should stay that way.

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>1.6 NA
>Special
Come on, let's not delude ourselves

>gm mats
>ugly steering wheel

otherwise I kinda like the interior.

needs a door handle tho.

its got a 1.8

but yeah I mean I dont think its a special snowflake at all

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Why not? Think about all the work the previous owner put into it.

how much u pay for that nig?

the PO removed the idle control valve and is it fairly easy to acquire a new and put it back on. It idles a bit wonky for 30-60 secs

yeah I know, im taking that into consideration but Im also thinking fuck him its my car now.

its probably cheaper to just get a second car anyway.

I paid $3300

i know for the price I probably couldve gotten a stock miata that came with ac/heat and radio but i dont really care for that.

honestly it sounds like the previous owner took care of it, and now you have a superlight miat

pretty good breh just get radio

but since you live a place that gets cold get some heat first

Yeah he did, dude got a bit emotional selling the car to me since he's had it for 5 years but never really got tihe time to drive it.

the only thing i dislike about it is that he totally removed the head lights

wait wut why would I add ac/heat and radio to a superlight miata? Also I dont plan on putting a radio in it either

Yes, it will be cheaper to get a winter beater. Think about all the work and money you will have to put into maintenance in order to keep it nice after a few winters
I would have bought it for the full price over mine any day of the week.

How's the coolant. It looks pretty bad.

is this going to be a track car or what?

yup ill probably get an outback to thrash around for winter.

yeah It just needs a flush

Im thinking come spring itll be my daily and yes I'd like to take it to the track as Lime Rock Park is an hour and a half drive from where I am.

Turns out it had worn valve guides and didn't actually start. 100% covered in rat shit, it had been stored outdoors for a long time. If I had a piece of land to put it on I'd totally low ball him and then part it out but I don't.

Look up a timing belt procedure on miata.net or something, they'll have all the info you need to do a timing belt

What's everyone doing on their yachts today?
I reskinned my doors this week and am going to try to get my new R-package front lip installed by Monday.

I'm noticing now how terrible that wave looks. It's hardly noticeable in car. Gonna fix that too. Luckily the fabric is held in place by literal scotch tape and the arm rest.

I don't like OEM cloth interiors but why does plaid/any patterned cloth re-upholstering make my dong expand?

I put mine on jack stands and started removing things all over the car. Will be removing the radiator + hoses and steering rack & pump tomorrow if I manage to split the ball joints. Planing on doing a re-route and removing the heater core.

Because somehow your balls manage to work.

Anyone done pic related to a hard top? Pretty interested in trying this

What do these do?

3d printed door bushings, looks like
increases chassis rigidity by a pretty surprising amount

Do all terrain tires small enough for a Miata exist or should I just use snow tires for dirt rallycross?

Hmm

Have there been any cases of these things leaving indents or warpage on the surfaces they wedge between? Seems like potentially a lot of pressure over little surface area.

holy fuck i am gonna copy that shit

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Not yet. Likewise, I intend to - although not cloth. I'd prefer a glittery vinyl so there's some actual shine to the stars - otherwise maybe some tiny LEDs hidden under somehow.

noice

anyone else have issues with getting 205/50 tires mounted to a 15x8 wheel?

I tried to buy a closeout deal from tirerack and they say it wont fit but its an exact copy of a FM combo. thinking I might just have to pay the extra $200

the fuck is this?


driver side, looking down from the front. some kind of intercooler that isnt hooked up. whats it for

/mg/ collage when?

Automatic transmission cooling loop that isn't used/connected because you probably have an MT?

yep its a MT so that sounds right I guess! must be they use the same radiator regardless

thanks!

guise what du u thinkkkkkkkkk

I drive a 2010 mazdaspeed 3, I offered to fix my buddies 04 MSM and its sitting im my garage right now. I can literally sit down right now and just look at this car (ignoring the fucking ugly ass holes in the hood) enjoying its presence. I really want a me-ah-tuh and i think this would be a good deal

>pic of my buddies MSM

What is/was wrong with it?

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>angry M
TRASH

Just find a sorta sketchy independent tire shop that stretches tires. Most corporate tire shop chains don't put 205s on 8s

U first

MSMs are good, especially if you live in a place with strict emissions where the stock ecu is needed to pass.

If your area doesn't use the obd port to do emissions testing then it's more cost effective to just turbocharge an originally naturally aspirated NB. Turbo'd NBs are usually quicker than MSMs as well.

spun bearing and possible fucked up pistons rings...

Wet Test
Cyl - 1 - 70 PSI
Cyl - 2 - 120 PSI
Cyl - 3 - 115 PSI
Cyl - 4 - 131 PSI

Sad part is the kid bought it for 8 grand, it sounded and ran great till like a few days.

Yeah we're in Cali, just passed smog so I feel you that user.

i didnt choose this life, it chose me.

Does anyone have that webm of the black miata being chased on a twisty road at night going rather fast?

Yeah

>>Snow Miata Edition
I'm ready.

ftw I want to build a NOPRO Miata after watching this video
youtu.be/nl3w9XsyzX0

Noice

I miss my MX-5s :(

Thanks

S T A N C E
T
A
N
C
E

that's strange, on tire rack i bought direzza dz101s on a 15x8 wheels, and they had no issue putting them on

What do you guys think of this as my first Miata? $2800, 180k miles, red

topeka.craigslist.org/cto/5851823251.html

Also, if I do end up going to check it out, how should I go about test driving it? My experience with driving stick is a few hours starting and stopping with my friend's car and watching videos on youtube.

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Are those SSR professors with Work stickers on them?
I would love a pair of polished 15x9 Work Meister S1 for my Miata, but they are so expensive and seems to be fairly heavy as well.
Pic semi related, 15" would have looked better.

had glow in the dark stars in mine, couldnt tell when driving at night (unless you looked up duh)

thats a toe issue genius

>NA6 came with heavy Prime knockoff wheels
>Finally get around to buying lighter rims
>Find Konig Heliums for $282 shipped

Feeling pretty good considering they weigh 11.4 pounds and the total cost w/ install will be less than $375.

Is this suppose to happen?

No. And that is why you buy the Garage Star Delrin ones. They are solid as fuck.

those arnt supposed to be a hard material, they need some give, like rubber. everyones seen those garagestar delrin ones and jumped on the bandwagon making these but out of hard plasticy crap. ive seen plenty of people buying cheapo ones from kiddies with 3d printers all breaking soon after fitting

noice
for some reason konig is often associated with top of the line wheels which they are not, but they are really fucking solid nevertheless

I know someone with a couple 3d printers so I got em for free. Thought they'd work. Even tested and sanded them.

Frog arms, frame rails, door bushings, roll bar, hard top, upgrade caliper, upgrade rotor

Out of all those do you think I should get a roll bar first?

personally id go
roll bar>brakes>hardtop>frame rails>frog arms>bushings

Ya that's about what I was gonna do. What's the cheapest accepted roll bar for a DD car?
I want something more than just the hard bar, but I don't need a cage or some shit.

if you're in america i'm not too sure what's available, plenty of miata pages on facebook with plenty of people who'd happily give advise (miataclub, mx5nutz probably your best bet)

Start with the door bushings, very cheap and improves a lot. If you are going to install the hardtop permanently I recommend the Jass performance mounts, really helps to stiffen the car up for a small price. I'd upgrade the brakes last if the current ones will last until then.

corny.

back2tumblr

124 Abarth vs Miata Club?

aged

I'm in need of advice for my sickly nb8a

Bought my puppy and got involved in an accident via my wheel bearing and cv joint fucking up. The car skid over a storm drain like a skate board with the rear left wheel impacting the storm drain wall which lifted the car and in turn saved me and my friends life.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated greatly.

Here's what we've found with the car after the accident

>Rust under the rhs door before the seam & inside the trunk
>LHS front guard is out of alignment as well as LHS door slightly (Door has a slightly bigger gap than the right side)
>Rear trunk of the car is misaligned, i've been told once i replace the diff housing it'll snap back in place but i'm unsure if the chassis is misaligned
Posting Photos of all these, i'll update with any new developments

We're also in the middle of replacing the diff & diff housing so i have all the replacement parts needed

>All pics related

More rust RHS under door

LFH Guard & headlight out of alignment

There is a slight offsetting gap also between the guard and hood

RHS guard & headlight for comparision

Rusted trunk

Better view of trunk rust

You're gonna have to replace the hood or find a body shop that can straighten it out. Once they do or you find a new one, replace the hinges too you probably bent them.

The door can be removed from behind the fender and repositioned, bring a friend as it's a bitch to align especially by yourself. On the NA it's a little tricky to remove the fender because of the front clip, I imagine it'll be easier on the NB.

Can you describe to me how the diff housing would come into play with the trunk being off center? I've never heard of such a thing.

The rust you're describing under the doors is on the rocker panels, and those actually rust from the inside out so you're going to have to cut the rockers panels out and weld new ones in.

As for the trunk, it's properly fucked.

I honestly recommend selling it or parting it out. Depends on how much you like the car, I like my NA's enough to spend the $3k+ needed to fix your issues, but I can't say that about my NB. Just an opinion. If you like the car, fix.

Fucked tow point

Theres a number of holes like this in the trunk, thinking i'll just hammer it and use a filler

For an idea of how bad the damage was,
everything missing in the pic was ripped out on impact

Thank you to anyone for your input
This is my dream ride, i want her to be okay

>Can you describe to me how the diff housing would come into play with the trunk being off center? I've never heard of such a thing.

From his description, it's the concept of how far you can bend a material before it springs back into shape.

>Depends on how much you like the car
Fully in love like angelina jolie to the 3rd world kids.

Posting pics of the trunk alignment soon.

I'm prepared to cut the metal & replace it. Would it spread to anything serious over the year? This is an expensive repair i'll need to save for

RHS trunk alignment

LHS trunk alignment

>Would it spread to anything serious over the year?

I don't think it'd happen in a year, but if it starts to touch your 1/4 panels it's going to be even worse.

Try peeling back the trunk liner inside, and loosen the latch that holds the trunk down. Don't fully remove it just loosen it and lower it as much as you can, tighten the latch back and then test the trunk. If you can't close it, loosen and raise the latch. It's in such slight increments, like millimeters. One of my NA's was high up like yours and I lowered the latch and whatdayaknow. You may need to close the trunk a lot harder, I use a little more force than I use to on mine. Also works for the hood if it's too recessed or too lifted.

Thank you, i'll be looking at this to the letter after fitting the new diff. Little tips like these are incredibly valuable

Could there be anything behind these parts that could cause panel misalignment? Anything that can hopefully be replaced or fixed.

Gross. Youre not an 8 year old girl.
What next? Maybe get MLP seatcovers?

Did that touch a nerve my special snowflake? I like it

Oh, now I want to do some crazy weabo art there.
As for how, if it's paper, water based glue - easy to remove.
Vinyl would be self adhesive.

there are two bolts which hold the trunk latch thing, you can loosen the bolts a bit and slide the whole trunk latch down, it's adjustable, then tighten it back up