What's your mileage cutoff?

Would you buy a car with 200k miles? 300k? 700k? What's the cutoff for mileage where you just say "fuck this I'm out"?

How many miles are on your current beater, cause if you're on 4chin I know you can't afford something nice.

I have 113k

I really don't have a cutoff when it comes to a mileage milestone. (it used to be 150k when I gave a shit)

I'll just buy a new car when I'm like officially done with my old one, and want to switch up. And it's almost about that time anyway.

>Would you buy a car with 200k miles? 300k? 700k?

If it's an old junker I want to restore for a project then yeah maybe.

I have, so far, always bought the wrong cars. 6 times.
But mileage wasn't really the problem. My 160k miles 525i runs like a champ.

Depends on the price
I would buy a million mile care if the deal was good enough

My buddy says to not get anything over 70,000km.

If it has an AMC straight six I literally disregard the mileage.

The only reason I even look at the odometer is to haggle down the price of the car.
I've seen BMWs with 200k running great and Toyotas with 100k already falling apart.
It's all about how it was maintained

Then he's an idiot.

Depends on the car and maintenance.

I recently bought a saab with 215k miles.
Within the last 15k miles it had
Cv joints replaced
Clutch and shifter bushings replaced
Turbo replaced
New tires and brakes etc etc
The car has been extremely well cared for.

I could give a shit, I buy cars for less then a thousand, and feed them headgaskets, junkyard engines, eBay transmissions, whatever it takes. What's a bit of work for a working truck for cheap?

I mainly buy cars in the mid 100,000s but I bought a 200k jeep recently for $750. Just put a new radiator in it.

Depends on condition and price compared to a low mileage model. If it has been properly looked after then 200k+ wouldn't concern me.

My current car has 145k on it and works perfectly.

People are obsessed with mileage here in the UK so you can get some crazy good deals on things over 100k, especially if they have a "big" (6cyl +) petrol engine.

The stuff I care about, age is more of a factor than mileage. Engines can be rebuilt and I might be doing that anyway if upgrades are in my plans. Suspension components gonna wear regardless. Brakes and clutches are expected shit.
Deal breakers for me are
- frame damage
- rubber dry-rot on parts you can't replace, I can't be searching junkyards for fuckin door seals and shit
- rust holes in weird places that require more fabbing than just sheet metal replacement
- fucked up electricals, I absolutely hate trying to find gremlins and corrosion deep in a wiring harness somewhere

the magic number is 200k

After that it's just boomers and retards trying to eek out a few remaining dollars with shit like "these motors go to 500k with a little care hurrhurr".

99% of the time, you should walk the fuck away from anything with >200k

I know that's not your car because the check engine light isn't on.

man factor for me is rust

mileage doesnt matter

crumbling structural parts are a big issue.

Depends what I'm looking for, though usually my cutoff is 100k.

This. Any 20 year old diesel truck in America is like 1million dollars because they all last 1000 years and never break down.

My e46 is at 132k, my scout has 3000 on current engine build, and my ranger has 315k.

I won't buy a vehicle over 200k unless I have a motor lined up for it unless it's a diesel or something rare enough to roll the dice on.

I bought my buick lesabre with 412k miles on it for 800 bucks. Put 40k on it since then. Only replaced the starter, tires and a window motor since i bought it.

Maintenance and repair matters more than mileage....you can have a vehicle that has 400k+ that has had a engine rebuild and worn parts replaced and had propper maintenance that will drive better than one that has 100k (miles) because it was neglected or has issues that have not been adressed.

So you don't care if a motor might have a dropped valve or a cracked piston, but you can't cut out a little rot and weld a new piece in?

You overpaid.

Nigga, he lives in the rust belt. All the motors are fine but the cars rust into thermite and explode at 50k

It's way easier to do engine work than safely repair frame damage. Especially on something with an integrated frame like 90% of cars out there have.

I would say that aswell if it didnt already give me almost no trouble at all during my time with it. Its been a great car. Asks so little and does so much.

I'm not talking about 18th century tube frame burgerland trucks

>rust holes in weird places that require more fabbing than just sheet metal replacement

shure you can buy repair kits to weld in but they are not available for every bit of your car.

Retard dected.....you would rather swap engines after a valve dropped and raped a cylinder to fuck and broke everything than patch.

I look at it like this. I look at a dd and want it to be worth 100 dollars a month. So if I spend 1200, I want it to last me 12 months before I sell it again, minus the cost of repairs. If I put brakes, a radiator, etc on it. I just add the cost of the parts onto the length of time I plan to own it. It helps in coming out on top when reselling

>patch
>calling someone else retarded
Please. We know you've got zero experience in this area. Why pretend when you come across so ignorant and fake?

An engine that runs well isn't just going to shoot itself twice in the back of the head just because it hits some arbitrary mileage limit.

Very much depends on a variety of factors.

First off, what engine it is in the first place. Some engines I'll be more willing to tolerate a higher mileage in than others.

Price also has to be right, the higher the mileage, the lower the price (in most cases).

Service history. For obvious reasons, a higher mileage car that's well-maintained is worth its weight versus one with half its miles and spotty maintenance.

For details: 200k tends to push my desire to buy a car, because in most cases that's where major things want to fail, and a lot of things are worn (like suspension bushings). Typical engines may develop piston slap around 250-300k miles from what I have learned, and are about due for a rebuild then. I've owned a couple high-mile S13's and while one ran great at 225k, you can tell it is getting a bit "tired". The 225k mile car also has a lot of slop in the suspension and steering, and will obviously need a rebuild in those departments.

And the leader, a 1989 240sx, almost bone stock except for a few tidbits, almost nailing 227k miles. A lot of things are getting restored and rebuilt over the course of the next few years, hopefully.

150,000 max for anything over $1,000

I'll buy something with 200,000+ but I won't pay more than $500

Ya take dem out.

Depends entirely on the vehicle and price

>high mileage German
nope (possibly an e39 m5 for the right price)

>high mileage Nip
Toyota and Honda yes, mazda and nissan no

>high mileage Murikan
GMC or cummin diesel ram truck yes
Ford and all else nope

I would generally agree with 200k. But I'm currently looking at a f150 with 209,000 miles. But the guys completely rebuilt it 60k miles ago. Motor, transmission, ls different, eaten hubs, and paint. Also I was lied to buying my daily and I think it's actually got 290 k miles (did resource after buying like a dumbass)

Doesn't matter to me

Depends completely 100% on what I'm looking at.
No I'm not taking someone's 180k g35 as the VQ is rated from the factory (see : perfect conditions ) to last 200. A 180k CRX? Depends now on what else we have aside from mileage.
For my general sports cars from provate sellers, 120k is my rule of the thumb, while service records can extend that almost indefinitely.
But my ideal car is autistically hard to find
>low mileage
>oem
>good price
>well kept
Took my a year to find my integra

i always played it safe and only looked for cars under 100k.

It goes out sometimes. It's fucking on now because rain + missing hood gasket + shit Cop waterproof is causing a missfire

i would say 150k but saying that my nissan patrol td42 has 615000ks and is alot tidier then patrols with half that

I would buy it. I have an old Ford truck with the 5.0 V8 with 270k miles. Engine runs perfect just the body is rusted out.

See that's what still gets me, not body rot, a few chips on the bed rail that are rusted. Bug no rot, the frame still has paint on about 90%

* But
Also pic is the 290,000 I drive not the one I'm getting

The old diesels just keep on going, and its fucking nuts. I know a farmer who bought a 2500 Dodge with a cummins in the 90's. Had it since it was brand new and barely did anything to it, and he towed around a lot of really heavy shit that should have split that dodge in 2.

A few years ago he sold it for 15K or something to some kid, brake pedals covered in cow shit and all. The body was gone and it should have never been on a public road without some serious brake work, but some idiot bought it anyway. He laughed all the way to the fucking bank, after he cleaned up the kids puke after he got a whiff of 20 years of cow shit caked into everything.

I'm pretty sure rust belt tier rust isn't even useful in thermite.