Know nothing about audio

That thing is just a big piece of plastic, you pop it off and unplug the wires for the knobs and such, then get a replacement mold. You wire up the new HU, reconnect the climate controls, and pop the new mold back in.

>buying subs
underage b&. kill yourself.

>carrying what other people put in their cars
underage b&. kill yourself.

Not an argument

>posting from both PC and phone so it won't show he is a samefagging nigger

Tyronne give back the phone and the bike.

Who hurt you?

Its been years since i got my sound system installed buuut.

>most likely have to get new radio
>look for pancake/truck subs to put under your seat, or regualr subs will fit behind if its a single cab.
I run 2 10s off a 1000 watt amp. I suggest getting 12s and a 1500.
>kicker subs. Mine have been going strong for years.
>have a pro put it in. Not only is it not your headache to deal with, they can also tune everything properly.

Since after market audio is kinda old news, you may be looking at 500 for 2 10s, an amp, and install.

What are you even trying to prove?

I could ask you the same question. I don't know why you're so hostile and accusing me of being a samefag, even though I keep providing proof that I'm not, and I'm not even sure what someone could gain by making a thread pretending to ask for car audio advice and then giving themselves advice on car audio.

>Good brands

Well, nearly everything today is shit. I mean, the vast majority of the stuff that you can buy online comes from the same Communist Chinese factory, with different brands slapped on the same heatsink. Knowing that, I'll name some actually good brands that aren't bullshit Chink garbage.

>Speakers
Focal, Morel, Dynaudio, Linear Power, German Maestro, SB Acoustics, Dayton, Vifa, ScanSpeak, Peerless, Vifa

>Boxes
Custom made for your car. So long as they're made with 3/4" or 1" MDF, and the joints are mechanically fastened and glued, you're good to go. The thing with boxes are though, THEY MUST MATCH THE WOOFERS. You *cannot* buy a random box, stick a random woofer in it, and expect it to perform very well. There are a host of calculations using the speakers Thiele-Small parameters that will determine the best type and size of enclosure to use for a given woofer.

To get a box correct, figure out how much airspace in your car you're willing to give up. And don't forget to subtract for stuff like the thickness of the actual box itself, any bracing inside of the box, and the displacement of the woofer itself, plus you need to subtract for the volume of the port if you decide on a Bass Reflex or Bandpass enclosure.

After you find out how much airspace you have, you can use a free program called WinISD to model your give sub in a given size box. For example, I've seen MANY times that a single 8 in the perfect box can blow away 4 12's in the wrong box. The calculations are just that important.

>amps
Mosconi, Helix, Brax, uDimension, Linear Power, Zuki, Sinfoni, Milbert, Mercury, Mmats.

>subwoofers
See my explanation on boxes. Pick the best woofer that will work in the airspace you have available.

Some good brands are Fi, Linear Power, RE, Helix, German Maestro, Dayton, Morel, Focal, Treo, JL Audio W3 and up.

>can I do it myself
Can you solder? Then yes. No? Then no.

>samefagging nigger going above and beyond to prove he is totally not samefagging

Why so defensive?

I'm the same fag

>admiting he's been samefagging this whole time

kek silly nigger

Ha, someone else just took credit for sanefagging. If he admits he's the samefag, then that means I'm not the samefag, so you were wrong all along.

>kicker
NOPE.

>pancake subs
They're called shallow mounts.

>random peak wattage numbers
These mean fuckall RMS is what matters and is solely determined by the equipment you're running.

OP if you have the cash look into the JL TW3 or TW1 line of shallow mounts as well as something like the Alpine type R, they all have a mounting depth at 3 1/2 inches or less so they can be crammed into very small spaces like behind bench seats or under bucket seats, and only need around 0.8 cubic feet boxes whereas normal woofers can be north of 1.5.

The type R is like 600rms 1800w peak meaning you'd want something like a 650-700w RMS mono amp and a separate 4 channel for whatever speakers you have throughout the rest of the truck.

You will need a new head unit as stated above due to amp pre outs. Wiring needed will all be determined by the equipment and power draw, any audio shop can help you with this sort of shit.

Be sure to install an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible under the hood for the amp, and I'd recommend using a ground block near the amp to ground to the cab/frame, don't ground on a seat or seatbelt bolt if at all possible.

>kicker a shit, good speakers can be had for cheap, you can spend 100-150 a pair of speakers and be blown away by the improvement

Thanks for the tips.

Why is after market audio old news? People not into it or stock systems now enough for most people?

i care when i have to hear your shitty car vibrating beside me. If you were mature you'd know you're just wasting your money. buy a car with a good stock sound system and fuck off.

>recommending places that sell $2500 amps for low power

lets be honest op isn't looking to spend $3k on a stereo, hes probably wanting some thump and better than factory speakers.

Other than that you're on point with everything else and I agree.

Most normies are satisfied with stock now a days. As others have stated, my suggestions arent the greatest things, but theyre cheap and will give you plenty of bass for anything unless you're trying to be a nigger.

Honestly though, ill live by kickers solely because ive had them for 7+ years now and have blasted them every day and they still sound nice and clean.

Stock is also a hell of a lot better than it used to be. New cars nowadays don't have 4w paper coaxial CD player setups like they used to. They've got like 300w 8 channel polyurethane components with Bluetooth, so it's really only spl decimal chasers that are buying after market stuff anymore.

Yeah god knows your average new cars have top end components that just shit on everything aftermarket right? When will this OEM KNOWS BEST meme end, there's only few things this applies to.

Do you buy your Cheerios pre-pissed-in? Not one part of my post implied that stock was in any capacity better than after market. I was making a more detailed explanation to the other user who asked why after market car audio was declining.
The reason? Like you said, most normies are satisfied by stock nowadays. Why is that the case? Because stock car speakers are several magnitudes better than they used to be. You used to get shit in a new car in the 80s and 90s, but a modern stock car has the same components, from the factory, that you would have seen in a $2000 SQ setup in 1994.
Next time before you decide to bunch your fucking panties in a bunch on the internet, try to at least comprehend the post you're responding to, before you pitch a fit over someone who is fucking AGREEING with you.

>decimal chasers
Fucking deweys

Do you not have those in your area? Down here, you get guys who try to min/max their interiors to get it as loud as possible, going so far as to duct tape their sun visors in a specific position, if it meant getting even .1 extra decibel, hence the name decimal chasers.

>missing the joke this bad

Jokes are usually funny.

>Why is after market audio old news?

There used to be a middle ground and that was a huge part of the market and where the car audio shops made their money. Because car manufacturers did away with the standard rectangular bezel opening in almost all dashboards and integrated car functions into the radio display, many people hesitate to get aftermarket head units.

Thus, it became either the low end or the highest end gear for car audio with the middle nearly gone and taken over by the car manufacturers and their "premium audio option packages" you guy with today's new cars. Truth be told, the OEM premium systems sound pretty good and are good enough for most people.

If people add anything now, it is either a pancake self-powered subwoofer that goes under the seat to add that "chest thump" feeling the OEM units don't have (because they mount their small woofs in the rear dash). Or people are in the high end and genuinely customize their car around the audio.

you're fucking old

OP just let us know your budget and what type of vehicle this shits going in.

LOL shut up noob. Sundown = low-end? Yeah low end as in crushing 25hz like a pro then yeah.

all you old fags have this perception on these extremely high priced brands = quality product. lol okie dumbdumb.

Don't even get me started on what you said about boxes. Clearly you've never properly built a simple ported box before and have received the output desired. Let alone bashing 4th or 6th orders. The only + about sealed is the roll off.

dont talk crap about my 158

Go for a 2 ohm subwoofer, easier on the alternator, but more expensive. They last longer, need a lot less power to do the same thing.

JL's W3 subs are pretty good, and not too bad on price for the fact that they are 2ohm. A 2ohm sub with a 300 watt amp should perform about the same as an 8 ohm sub on a 1200 watt amp.

I should correct myself a bit, that is just going from absolutes. The old "200 watts through a 2ohm speaker is 100 watts through a 4ohm speaker" deal.

I should probably speak in amps and heat.

>Sundown = low-end? Yeah low end as in crushing 25hz like a pro then yeah.

Well, some people are used to higher-end products. Or products that have different form factors. Many people also don't do the installations themselves, but hire high-end custom car audio shops to construct elaborate audio systems for their car.

>mentions daytons

Stfu dont let that secret out.

Too late nigger, I'm tellin errybody

Just to add to boxes:

Most decent+ speakers will come with specs for air volume, so you don't always need to go through complicated formulas- just have to choose one of the boxes that you have room for and build to match.
Good speakers will come with a couple different types of box displacements and actual specs on the speaker to create fully custom enclosures.

>create fully custom enclosures
just have to choose one of the boxes that you have room for and build to match.

what gets me are those big squarish or rectangular carpeted boxes taking up all the trunk space. some of them are trapezoidal, but they are all too huge.

That kind of speaker build saved most of the trunk space. Much better than some big box squat in the middle of the trunk. But looks like some custom car audio shop did fiberglass work to shape the speaker housings and seatback.

What in the actual fuck are you talking about?

The impedance of the driver changes versus frequency. You are suggesting that 300w (24.5v, 12.24A) at an impedance of 2 Ohms will have more acoustic output than 1200W (97.98V, 12.24A).

You are suggesting that a driver will magically be 24.5 times the amplitude of another driver, even though the first is receiving 73.48V less than the second.

You are suggesting that the impedance of the driver is a constant, and not the Nominal Impedance (the lowest impedance of the curve, at Fs.)

You are stating that even though the conversion of electrical energy to mechanical energy by the transducer is around eight percent efficient at the very most, using a lower rated nominal impedance loudspeaker breaks the laws of physics hardcore and increases it's efficiency to about 32%.

You are saying that a 2 Ohm rated loudspeaker will be 'easier on the alternator' which is interesting, as the loudspeaker solenoid is a passive device not connected to the alternator. If you mean that it is easier for the amplifier to drive this load, you are still incorrect. The power section of the amplifier must pass more current to drive a lower impedance. Somehow you think that demanding more current from the alternator is 'easier on it.'

You are a fucking dickhead.

>I should probably speak in amps and heat.

You should probably stop typing.

Holy shit, you actually have a fucking clue! I have a sneaking suspicion you actually know wtf you're talking about! Rock on, dude. It's refreshing to know there exists people who know the theory behind stereo systems, and not just regurgitate the incredible ignorance they read on CACO or SMD.

Man I hope so, I've spent a few decades now in touring sound with musical theatre and rock'n'roll.

We live in a wonderful age. Anything you could possibly want to know is right at your keyboard and a search engine away. It's a shame that so many people will be told crap and take it onboard straight away as fact. Check it yourself.

It's crazy, you can have whatever parameter for the transducer in front of you on the phone in minutes. When we (I) blew up the mf cones in a cluster of Flashlights (or Floodlights? It was a long time ago) we had to call Turbosound, and Precision Devices, and Beyma, and anyone we could get a hold of to try and find some drivers that would work to get the boxes through the tour. Now it's just type in, get the info, ????, and profit.

But if you ask MrCummy, I'm a fool. But he thinks high impedance loudspeakers are for wall outlets and amplifiers fed from AC GPO's don't need a power supply as the voltage is so high amongst other hilarious dribble, so y'know.....there's that.

Same dude but SMD used to be pretty good. I liked to read what people were up to and the latest insane loudspeaker developments. There were cool threads on the BTL's when they came out and when Scott from RE left and started FI with loudspeakers using the same motor and basket. I stopped going there in about 2011 during a period of pretty hectic touring and shows but found my account is still working this year.

It's a very angry website now. Lots of carrying on.

If you want to have your head explode, go on the Facebook page "I Just Wanna Bang". Before you pull it up though, wrap your head with duct tape. That way, when it explodes from the utter stupidity that you're going to read, you still have all of the pieces so the neurologist can put you back together.

When I build a stereo, I pull my own Thiele-Small Parameters, then plug them into WinISD or LEAP. I'm one of the few people that I know that do that. And I'm just a normal guy, I've never worked in the industry.

I have been doing building boxes for over 30 years now though, and from Day 1, I've always used TSP's. Back when I was in High School, everyone always wondered how I got so much more out of my stereos than anyone else could. Easy, I told them: I actually payed attention in Ms. Kicklighter's Algebra II class!

I had my whole damned town coming to me for their installs, or to at least design their boxes for them. After I started showing my friends how to do the calculations for themselves, I swear to God, from the little town I came from, we must have had some of the best sounding stereos in our part of the state.

There's no secret to a great sounding stereo, it's just math. If you understand the math behind enclosure and crossover design, and the math behind phase alignment of your full range drivers up front, you almost can't screw up.

Don't you have like a job or something better to do with your life? Jesus fuck, this is Veeky Forums not /b/.

you can still use the factory headunit, but you'll need line level converters on the outputs to run external amplifiers

If you're going to an LOC, use a really good one. Use either a Navone Engineering or Audio Control. Navone ones are very high quality at an adorable price, but are only 2 or 4 channel. I think the 2 channel is only like $25.

AC units have more features than he Navone, and so obviously they cost a bit more. Some models that can take up to 8 channels of inputs. For a simple setup, the basic AC LC2i has a built in bass knob, and usually runs about $80.

>pancake self-powered subwoofer
>They're called shallow mounts.

If you get one of those thin subwoofer packages, make sure that it still fits if you use electrically operated seats at the lowest position. The shallow mount "pancake sub" fits under clearance of seats at their high position and you should verify that the low position doesn't have the seat crunch down on the subwoofer.

>They're called shallow mounts.
Those subwoofers are prefect for adding to OEM systems that missing chest thumping bottom. They also go with the OEM approach of being invisible with no negative styling points and taking up no trunk or passenger space.