1. New Water Pump
2. New Fuel Lines cause they ripped
3. New Distributor Cap and Rotor
4. New Spark Plugs
5. New PCV Valve
6. Did the smoke test and the only places where smoke comes out is the bpt valve, the weep holes on the vacuum switches and out the top of the carburetor.
7. New Radiator Cap
8. New Anti-Dieseling Solenoid
9. Fixed 2 electrical shorts thanks to the multi meter measuring on the fuse box
10. Replaced a corroded terminal on the ecc main relay and at the same time got the anti-dieseling solenoid and the rest of the engine to receive battery voltage.
11. Manually testing the EGR and BPT valves and they both work fine.
12. Found out that the oil pressure sending unit for some reason became unplugged so plugged that back in
13. Plugged the vacuum hoses to both the tvv valve and the vacuum control valve and problem doesn't go away
14. Hooked a vacuum gauge to one of the hoses and it reads steadily around 5-8 inhg at idle.
15. Hooked it up to one of the hoses that goes to the manifold and reads the same thing. It should read around 17-22 Inhg.
16. Turns out that the vacuum switch that is connected to the exhaust plugs was bad, took that off so now on the vacuum gauge it steadily reads around 15 inhg and revving the engine it goes up to 18 inhg and back down to 15 inhg. Something else is wrong with it.
16. Replaced both fuel filters and it did not fix it.
17. Replaced all of the plug wires with a brand new set that fit.
18. Sprayed soapy water around the base of the carb and the idle rpm's wasn't affected
19. Found out that the exhaust manifold is cracked. Replaced the exhaust manifold and the O2 Sensor and it's still idling roughly.
20. Disconnected and plugged all the lines that go to all of the emissions control components to no effect.
21. However i noticed that the timing is bouncing around and it shouldn't do that. The exhaust side #1 plug has erratic reading while the rest on that side reads nothing. HELP!