QTDDTOT

120k miles, $2600
Y/N?

forgot pic
BMW e38 2001

Is it possible to receive a speeding ticket in CA if a cop pointed a radar/lidar gun on you on a busy city street but never pulled you over? Or am I just being paranoid?

Behind your caliper you'll see two (probably) 14mm bolts.
One isn't a bolt. It's a little cap thing with a 4mm hex in it.
Undo it but don't pop it out.
Wind your pistons back in.
Do the hex hard up then back it off 1/3 a turn.

What does hex actually do? I just got one pair on but they're tight as hell, even filed the bur off the edge of the disk just to get them on.

Ended up rotating them, then put the clamp back on, and repeat. moved a bit.

when i scrape my old headgasket off how do i stop chunks of it falling into oilways and stuff

Is it true that MR2s are prone to snap oversteer and killing the people driving them?

Only one specific generation does that.

Kias are Hyundais

Distributor cap and rotor

We're not psychic, but odds are it's belt and or the belt tensioner

No, unless you're willing to dump 5 grand more into it

Oh cool. Which one should I avoid?

Is there no real way to drift with an open diff? Are my options for hitting the toegay really only to either weld, or get an lsd?

I keep hearing something about "LS", what the fuck is that?

Also how would I get my car to spit fire out of the exhaust?

LS is a series of engines made by GM, namely for the Corvette.

Buy a turbo rotary, straight pipe it, enjoy melting your bumper off.

Thank you friend, I've also heard about rev limiters doing something along the lines, what do those exactly do besides the obvious function in its name.

As far as I'm aware, they do exactly what the name implies and nothing more.

You can drift with it but only in the rain

Rev limiters are only there to keep the engine from tearing itself apart.

if you're running a rich enough mix bouncing off the limiter will pump unburned fuel/air mix into the exhaust and the next exhaust pulse will ignite it

Wheels that won't look like shit on an 03 gallant?

I'm shopping used cars for the first time. Is it better in principle to buy a more common, generally less reliable car or less common, generally more reliable car?

I'm having a hard time deciding between U.S. domestic and Jap rides in a $4-8k budget.

What are the performance benefits of solid motor mounts?

You've got a clutch problem. Fucked master or slave or possibly seized spigot bearing. Pull back the rubber boot on the master and slave cylinders and see if there is any fluid behind it. If there is, it's fucked. Replace both at once, they are cheap ($15 or so each) and you've gotta bleed it up anyway.

Why does my 3-cylinder 2009 VW Polo doesn't accelerate faster when the throttle is pushed all the way in, it accelerates faster at 3/4.

Is it a fuel/air ratio problem?

You can actually notice a difference in acceleration in that thing?

Anyways odds are it's an ecu issue

this, also give it some new trans. oil

you are paranoid

protip: use a shop vac while you scrape

get something with a long production run (5+ yrs) where not a lot of things are changed in the design, parts will be the cheapest
Don't get a european or USDM vehicle unless you can wrench

>performance
your engine moves less, worse for engine and other suspension components
>handling
your engine moves less, so feedback like vibration from RPMs is increased, less double bogging on turns or rough roads (engine moving in bay combined with suspension travel)

Hello friends

Can someone please tell me what this truck is?

looks like a late 80's to early 90's Mazda B series
>could be a mitsu mighty max, can't see doors

Thanks man!

i think generally kia is more reliable than hyundai but obviously it depends on the model/year

Gimme the low down on the dodge stealth, Veeky Forums. I like the way it looks, flip up headlights, sporty looking, domestic.

Are they decent vehicles? I have experience working on Dodge trucks and a neon.

Can I go fast without breaking the bank at least?

late 90's and early 2k's are the sweet spot for reliability for hyundai and kia
mainly because they shared engines and since hyundai didnt know what the fuck they were doing they didnt cheap out on engine parts

where can i find a 2016 bandit trans am for sale? i know someone has to be marking theirs up like 10x what they paid on release because its limited edition and signed.

>domestic
sorry mate, its a Mitsubishi. Is it just the DOHC or is it turbo as well?

I bought a 5th gen celica for $950 from the original owner and it's in great shape, but the 5SFE engine has almost 280k miles. She has full documentation of everything she's had done to it since she bought it and the thing runs like a top. My question is: would opening up the exhaust and intake a bit more improve the long term health of the engine? I'm already going to upgrade the suspension and replace the steelies.

Initial D question

why does the AE86 driver sometimes turn off his lights when racing people?

I don't know the show at all but saw some clips

makes the car more aerodynamic, allowing him to go faster.

Of course it's just an anime, but in real life the effect would be pretty much useless. i have a car with fairly big popup headlights, and with them up or down, it doesnt make enough of a difference to give an advantage in a race.

intake no, exhaust depends.

If the catalytic converter(s) are pretty clogged then yes, if they are fully functional then no. the engine needs the perfect amount of exhaust back pressure to ensure good valvetrain health.

Actually, its the anime magic "blind attack technique"

Dagumi turns off his lights, preventing his opponent from seeing his car in the night. He then overtakes them and turns his lights back on after getting in front of them

I couldn't get the other side on, ended up putting the old ones back on. I suspect they sold me the wrong pads, the metal plate on the pads was thicker. I got a refund and put the car back together.

The brakes lose pressure while holding them, there's no resistance in the hand brake you can pull it all the way up. But the hand brake is on anyway? Also no change in the brake fluid tank. Tried driving it a bit and pumped the brakes.

The hand brake is the front wheels, the pads I tried changing were the rear, but I took the front right off the check them.

;_;

Exhausted and disappointed, I might take it to my mechanic, or the tyre place if they do brakes. And ask them about what and how they did it.

Is there a "good cars for under $10k" chart like the $5k one? If not, is an impreza a good car?

>Shit the size of a dollar bill
Was it a fucking albatross?

Check the air flilter, it might be clogged.

Dohc, not sure about turbo.

I could fool someone with the dodge badge

how to change rotor?

ah, that makes sense. I was like wtf he's going dark on a mountain road?! thanks m8

Oh boy a project

Thanks guise

looking to buy my first car
found these while filtering a lot of shit
which one br/o/s?

suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=233586330&sortOption.sortBy=creationTime&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&isSearchRequest=true&grossPrice=true&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&scopeId=C&minFirstRegistrationDate=2006-01-01&maxMileage=125000&maxPrice=6000&makeModelVariant1.makeId=16800&makeModelVariant1.modelId=4&pageNumber=1

suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=235016333&scopeId=C&ambitCountry=DE&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&transmissions=MANUAL_GEAR&sortOption.sortBy=specifics.firstRegistration&isSearchRequest=true&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&features=FULL_SERVICE_HISTORY&minPowerAsArray=100&minPowerAsArray=KW&maxMileage=125000&maxPrice=5500&makeModelVariantExclusions[0].makeId=23000&pageNumber=5

a helicopter tachometer gives info on both engine and rotor rmps. why do car tachometers only tell you about engine rpms?

related question: how do you know the exact rpm engine should be in during a downshift? right now i just have a vague feel for it and will fuck it up occasionally.

>03 gallant
something rally inspired

Because there is no rotor and rpms anywhere else are less meaningful than existing information.

Because the speedometer is your "rotor speed".

200 series Volvo vs W123 TD Mercedes?

I intend to daily it, I have a backup vehicle. I have no interest in new cars, they all suck. I have a chevy sonic, already had 5k worth of warranty work done, only 68k miles. Drove a 128i with a 6 speed, e36 is a better car. New subarus are fast toyotas. I want an old tank wagon and then I can be a hooligan in my mk2 GTI.

How do I put these things back in?

the reason i'm confused is because it seems like in a manual transmission car having a second tachometer for the speed of the spinning wheels would allow someone to more accurately match revs.

Rubber mallet

The speed of the spinng wheels is always different than the speed of the engine, it's called gearing

Going to used car lot to buy a car under $13,000. What's the best kinda cars that are reliable? I'm seeing tons of hyundai elentras with like 40,00 to 70,00 miles on them and kia Seoul base that have with 40,000 to 70,000. Are those cars reliable and cheap to take care of? I try and look at reviews on Edmunds but they're always mixed and it seems like there are a lot of company shills on there.

Unless you can calculate engine response time, size of the tires, gearing of the differential and gear ratio of the gear you're going in a fraction of a second, you can't accurately rev match.

Tl;dr unless you're a computer you cant

Most of us just blip the throttle to get it close enough and then shift

right i mean taking that into account, ie 1:1 gear ratio would have them the same.

i guess the blip thing is the way to go

Take the cap and unbolt it from the camshaft

buy an older car if you just need A to B transportation. you can use the thousands of dollars you save on something more fulfilling than a fuckin kia soul

i bought an 02 sentra w/ 150k miles, did the /o sticky pre-inspection and followed the maintenance manual. i put on 30k miles in the year i've owned it, a lot of them very very rough because i deliver pizzas on third world quality dirt roads for university survival funds.

cost to buy car: $2500
cost to keep car in excellent mechanical condition so far: $2315

oh yeah, to answer your question: check the /o sticky, consumer reports has really good reliability info on a lot of cars which affirms some stereotypes (toyotas and hondas really are very reliable) and disaffirms others (quite a few american cars are very reliable too). some cars will be hit or miss because certain engines are reliable and others are time bombs (the ford focus is one example).

i wouldn't get too worked up about reliability stats because all cars eventually break down. if you really just follow the maintenance manual and make sure you don't buy a lemon overwhelming chances are you'll be fine.

one more thing: please don't buy from a used car lot.

Its the only thing around here. Im east Texas and there's shit in craigslist and I don't see any cars for sale out. I have to go to houston to find good private sales

get a big fat list of potential used cars from private owners in houston, vin check them all, count on half of them flaking out, drive a rental car over there to check them all out, stay overnight if you have to. doing all this shit you'll save money over buying at a stealership i guarantee it.

i say drive a rental car over because used car sellers will try to gyp you once they know you need a car. don't let them know you need the car. the car i bought we agreed on $2300. the next day the jew selling it to me raises it to $2500 because "someone else is interested in buying it" (seller was in fact a jewish person).

let them know you'll be doing a very in-depth inspection before you check them out. in my experience they'll say ok over email, and about a quarter of them will try to make you feel like a weirdo for doing all the checks in person. don't worry about this-- there's too much money on the line to let it phase you. just insist on doing the entire inspection. if they don't let you walk away and move on to the next car on your giant list of cars to check out. the more you see the more differences in how well the cars have been taken car of will be apparent.

Will someone give me a van so I can do this to it?

how are you going to afford that if you can't even buy a shitty van

oh yeah some old 4banger cars that are reliable off the top of my head:

anything toyota
anything honda
saturn S series
saturn ion
chevy cavalier AKA pontiac firebird
nissan sentra
focuses with zetec engines

pickup trucks, regardless of country of origin, tend to last quite a bit longer than passenger cars

Idk private sells are sketchy to me. I've already bought a shit car because the guy polished up everything and make it sound and look good but it ended up breaking down on me. a mechanic told me he didn't do shit to the engine like he said

they are, but that's why you check out a ton of cars and inspect each of them. when buying my first car all my knowledge was just shit i read on the internet. i looked at about 15 cars in 4 day period and quickly got a sense of what was garbage and what wasn't.

used car salesmen rip people off multiple times a day -- they're good at it.

and if you want to be completely sure then once you decide on a car which passed the inspection on the sticky, just take it in to the mechanic and get a professional inspection for about $150, $200. chump change for the true total cost of buying and owning the car.

Bumpan a day later

Recommendations for summer rims for my E90?

Look for any play in the pulleys while idling. have someone hop in and give you some RPM's while you look if you can. what other user said about belt tensioner is very likely. is there ticking/clicking? or just squeal?

Need to clean 20+ years of Jesus fish residue off of my new celica. What is the best way to get rid of it without damaging paint any further?

pull and twist the top from the bottom, it loosens enough to get the tip into the hole its meant to go, then you kinda have to knock it back in with a bit of force. they function a bit like those stock intel CPU coolers pins.
TLDR wiggle it and pray

The same way you detail clear-coat scratches.
Soapy water, microfiber towel, sandpaper it down with finer and finer grit, then polish and sand to match surrounding area.

Just had my car jump started, the battery was dead.
Now there are lights on my dash telling me my power steering has been reduced, my traction control is off, and my tire pressure is low.
What do I do?

dunno for sure, but once the same thing happened to me and my car would die when idling. i ended up having to get the computer reprogrammed so it gave the right amount of air, gas to keep the engine running during idle. maybe your computer forgot something too when it died and came back to life?

planning on getting a bike to drive while fixing a bunch of shit on my car so im not dd'ing it and making the issues worse. plus i can save a bit because the bike will be cheaper to insure and drive. i was going to drop insurance on the car but my city is stupid and you apparently have to turn the plates in if its not insured, and you cant leave a car without plates on the road.
dont want to put the car in storage because ill end up paying more to do that than im already paying for insurance.
anyone dealt with a similar situation and have any advice/ideas for me?

might of somehow set some CEL codes off, so your car thinks theres a bunch of issues that arent actually there. wouldnt hurt to check the codes and clear them

Belts too loose or glazed. If it goes away after 10 seconds is prob just cold

Is this your first cold with this car?

my friend has a jeep rubicon and she has a dent in the plastic front bumper. we have tried drilling a hole in the back and trying to push the dent out after softening it with boiling water but we only shrunk the dent. is their any other way to get the dent out of that kind of hard plastic? the dent is less than 24 hours old and we are going to try using a blow drier to heat it up next. it's kind of like pic related but on the front.

Second one you traitor

i live in texas and im thinking ill be doing mostly construction work but i really dont have experience in construction. should i get a truck or am i good with a sedan? i dont know if pople want me to have a truck or what. trucks are so much more expensive and for my price range tend to be in the 100,000 thousand milage.

(Most) trucks last much longer than passenger cars. Like 30pk miles easily with basic maintainance.

whenever i turn my heat on the smell of oil fills the car. i know the car is leaking oil but not sure from where?
pls help winter is fucking cold in Canada