My engine's got a sticky valve problem

I don't want to take the valve cover off cause I don't want to replace the gasket thereafter. What do I do to fix this problem?

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Also my timing seems to be wandering. I need a consistent answer unto what is going on? Could sticking valves be causing the timing to wander?

What do you mean replace the gasket?

Just put it back and call it a day

depending on the vehicle you may beable to re-use the old gasket. a lot of times the old ones break and fuck right off though.

make/model and what exactally is a "sticky valve" problem?

youtube.com/watch?v=u6UeJXkzDW8

Forget the gasket.
It's a 85 Nissan 720.
And "sticky valve" means that the valve moves but doesn't move back as quick cause it's gummed up with assorted crap.

Thinking about using Marvel Mystery oil. What does Veeky Forums think?

I've had mixed (mostly bad) experiences with seafoam. Killing cats and fouling plugs.

I assume you're stateside, therefore you can get amsoil powerfoam anywhere. Used it so far on 4 cars and no weird issues.

If theres no local amsoil dealer, go on down to your local Chrysler/dodge dealer and grab a can of this shit.

Smells something FOUL when it comes out in the exhaust but this shit works aswell. The can even says ideally to leave it overnight and start it up in the morning. I got'em for 6 bucks each but that's up in canuck-town.

>cause it's gummed up with assorted crap.
You want to use pennzoil platinum ULTRA full synthetic. This is not their regular platinum full synthetic as the ultra version has even more detergent and cleaners. Check with walmart.com for best price and have them send it to your local walmart retail store. You can then pick it up without shipping charge. Amazon sells it for more though.

Full synth oil does flow down the valve stems. Eventually it will clean the valve stem but don't know how long that will take. However, full synth oil (all brands) clearly gums up far less than conventional oil.

If you have a throttle body fuel injector car, then you should also switch to Top Tier gasoline due to the detergent action on dirty values.

send carb cleaner straight down the intake being careful not to stall it because it will bog the engine

Top Tier gasoline and intake valves

You sound like a oil salesman.
>Snek oil

This, a good brand carb cleaner (so it doesn't fuck up sensor tips if applicable) will clean the worst of the crap off. I suggest using a moderate amount, keeping the revs around 2k-2.5k if possible.
>been a pro wrencher for 10 years now

No. Dont half ass it with additives. You will be best off pulling the head and hand cleaning it with metho. End of the day you will need to fix this properly somehow and a mechanic will fuck you hard to fix it.

Is the car your DD? How experienced are you with mechanics.

Honestly user, if op is asking here for help on such a basic maintenance (no offense to op) then pulling the head and cleaning the valves manually is most probably beyond his capabilities. Especially because he doesn't even want to take the rocker cover off.

Italian tuneup is your friend. Keep it near redline for a few minutes on the highway, problem solved.

Yes, or at least it could feel like it

It's cheap and makes your exhaust smell nice, fuck it. Pour some in your oil and a bit in the gas tank, and do the aforementioned tune up

2bh i just sent carb cleaner right at the throttle body bypassing the maf and air temp sensors

Should do the trick, i know not all of then comes with the little nozzle. Proper carb cleaner eats the shit out of gunk and buildup.

Is there any difference in symptoms between sticky and burnt valves?

Yeah mate, huge. A burnt valve is no longer sealing but will return to the valve seat quickly. The burnt valve damages the valve seat too as the rough edge of the damaged valve eats into the seat. Worse with rotators which most cars from the eighties and up have. Usually accompanied by a 'whuff whuff' or 'thud thud' noise from the exhaust as compressed gas from the combustion chamber moves through the damaged valve surface.

You can clean a sticky valve with solvents, but there is nothing but replacement for a burnt valve.

Forgot image.

The compression was 180 across the board though.

and also to my surprise ran with a closed thermostat which i recently replaced.

bump

As usual, it depends. The damage to the valve could have occurred close to the seat where it will mostly seal when fully closed but will perform poorly at anything other than valve spring tension. The exhaust valve in my image was in that condition but still in service for two hundred hours.