Found this 4 speed manual '86 FJ60 with 122k miles.
It has a 4 inch spring lift, new 31 X 10 tires on black rims. New brake shoes, lines, master cylinder and brake booster. all belts new, all heater hoses new, Webber 38mm carb with new pressure regulator, new exhaust. DUI distributor HEI, 8 mm sleeved wires.
its been repainted but has typical fender rust still thats supposedly been treated.
Seller is asking $2500 obo. Would this be a good buy for a winter car?
Jonathan White
>seller is asking 2500 I have yet to see one for sale with less than 240k miles for less than 5k. If that is true, fucking buy it.
Nathan Cox
...
Parker Bell
really? is there anything I should be prepared for or look for when i go check it out? Im not too familiar with Fj60s
Wyatt Turner
Personally, body rust is a deal breaker for me. It's a good indication that everything else is barely holding together.
Camden Flores
it doesnt bother me desu but even if its only a lil rust? assuming the rust on the fender is the only rust on the car?
Jacob Hall
look for frame rot. Those drivetrains are rock solid, but don't be afraid to get a flashlight and look underneath it. Also, get a decent strength magnet, put it behind a thin cloth and run it along the body. if it doesn't want to stick, odds are it has a fuckload of body filler and either rusted or was in an accident.
Asher Hughes
that little bit of rust if not treated will eat the whole car alive.
Nathaniel Martin
depends where you live. places that require registration inspections typically won't pass anything with rust perforations. I can tell from here it's a pile of shit.
Xavier Taylor
I had an 80. Great car if you don't have anywhere to be in a hurry. 60s are even slower. Little harder to work on than other Toyotas but not by a lot.
That rust looks like it was caused by salty water sitting in there, there's definitely a lot more rust on that car, I'd look really close if I was going to buy that thing, to the point of looking under the carpet and tapping everything under the car with a hammer
Jose Moore
i live in connecticut. anything berfore '91 is emissions/inspection exempt
he hasnt mentioned anything else but he did say the rust on the fenders were treated.
im emailing him now to find out more
pic related is the ad
Jayden Bailey
see post above
Michael Johnson
There's really bad cancer under the rear window (really a pita to repair that). It also looks like it's had a MAACO job in the last few years, yet still has visible cancer. It's too far gone imo to be worth repairing, if you want to just drive it as is and the frame rails and floor are solid then go for it, but it will never be that nice of a car without investing more time and money than it would take to just buy a clean example.
Austin Harris
i don't plan on making it a "nice" car.
Assuming there isnt any rust on the frame and the engine is running fine, id be ok with DDing that POS.
Brody Rogers
bump
Nathan Moore
ttt
Josiah Diaz
what more do you want?
Ayden Davis
everything
Dylan Thomas
Personally, I'd ignore the naysayers such as . People like that don't really have any idea what they're looking for on specific examples and use broad generalisations to come to a short sighted conclusion. Body rust on these things doesn't really mean anything, and is quite common. As you said before, so long as the frame is straight and doesn't have much more than surface rust, I'd jump at it. If it's going to be a winter beater anyway, an immaculately presented body would be wasted.
Luis Jones
Forgot to mention. spring and shackle hangers is the most common part of the frame to start rotting, coupled with crossmembers and body mount points.in terms of body rot, sills can be a pain in the ass, but not out of the realm of a competent DIYer armed with a 100ish amp gasless mig and a little body filler to repair. As said, that body is far from immaculate, but for your purpose, that wouldn't turn me off. The body ain't structural after all. And then usual things for offroad 4x4s, check for transfer case engagement in both ranges and freewheeling hub operation. Check for drivetrain backlash on overrun, as well loved and used Cruiser 9.5" diffs can exhibit a little freeplay.
Jeremiah Moore
thanks for the info! will keep this all in mind.
hows the hvac on these things? are they absolute shit?
Carter Taylor
>hows the hvac Like anything of the age, if it's been looked after, the aircon (if it was optioned with it) works as well as any other large interior 80's SUVs. Heater is pretty fool proof (back to generalizations) and works well, but one of my checks with ANY car would too be to check the heater operation, make sure it warms up as the engine warms. A sickly sweet coolant smell in the cab is a giveaway of a rotten heater core (this isn't that common anyway, only when talking about a vehicle that has either had mixed or incorrect coolants throughout its life), but that wouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker for me. It would however raise alarm bells and pique my curiosity to probe the rest of the engine cooling system. Again, this isn't too likely. For something like an all cast iron 3F motor, I'd be inclined to run caterpillar red coolant but only as I get it cheap enough in bulk from work.
Andrew Sullivan
Just concentrate on the "frame rust in the rear section" first up. as it'll be difficult to repair properly if it's in the shackle hangers.
