I want to relocate my battery to the trunk

I want to relocate my battery to the trunk


Is it really as simple as this?

Should there be any fuses or anything?

Odds are your vehicle has its own fuses.

If you have a truck you'll need way more wire.

I would make sure that the trunk doesn't leak either.

don't. you're not good enough tell the difference in balance. it's only like 30 pounds.

It's that simple. Your basically just extending the factory positive and negative wires to reach the back. And the box is so stuff doesn't touch it.

That wasn't the reason I wanted to do it.

I bought myself a turbo as an early Christmas present and it won't fit without getting a smaller battery or relocating the battery. An because It's so cold where I live, If i got a smaller battery it would be constantly dying.

Space could be used for the intake

Personally, I run a sealed battery for peace of mind that fumes will never be an issue in the cabin. I've got a hatch though, so maybe not as important for you. I also run a redundant circuit breaker at the battery so if I were to get in a horrible wreck and something shorted, the long cable run to the engine bay wouldn't cause a fire. Safety first.

Nah, the positive cable will run to your fusebox, so you'll just be reusing the same fuses that are already in use

Trunk battery master race

Just relocate it under the fender. Way less cabling to deal with and leaves room in your trunk.

I'm not sure If I understand.

Can you elaborate my good man?

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It's a pretty large trunk, An even with the tools, fishing gear I keep in it It have more then enough room for 4 or 5 batteries If I so desired

I want it in the trunk

This will block my pipes for my intercooler as well. Need it in the trunk jobin

So you want to make more work for yourself with all that cabling and making sure its routed correct, also accounting for the distance because of the power draw.

Make sure you get the right gauge, or your car won't start. Too thick no start, too thin and you burn right through it and still won't start.

Theres more then one spot to place it.

He's saying you're already fuse protected. One thing he's not telling you though (and honestly something most people who relocate their batteries overlook), is that unless you're fuse protected at the power source, your long battery cables can become a fire hazard if they short in a crash. Get yourself one of these circuit breakers and wire it up at the battery if you wanna play it safe.

It seems easier then removing my entire front bumper to jump start it or replace a battery (which happens a lot in the northern hemisphere)

That is the easiest way to do it but it's not terribly elegant.
There are online guides by people who understand electricity.

I saw that on a forum, OK

>removing the entire panel to jump start
>not place a terminal between
>not carring a jumper box with you
>replace the battery
If you have to replace the battery more then once every two years. you have a problem. And you probably shouldn't turbo your car if you consider removing a fender "difficult".

Really you shouldn't be doing a turbo setup at all since you don't understand gauging.

>Too thick no start,
why? i used thick welding cable and I have no issues

You're incredibly stupid.

You're also stupid.

It's not difficult. It's inconvenience in -20


It was already made, I ordered it from road race motorsports

>Brosifine !!fPOjsJng8Fk

The only reason I haven't filtered you is that I find you mildly amusing.

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It's easy, just do it like pic rel

I mean you can put an inline fuse in the positive if you really want to, as long as your car has fuses already you don't need to. I guess with more wire you technically have more chances for shorts to occur, but get thicc wire and it won't be a problem