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Post dem projects

Currently rebuilding a Nissan L24 to put in my lifted Honda 600.

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Here's the engine pre-disassembly

Block stripped and ready to go to machine shop for resurfacing

Block resurfaced and repainted, and honed

Resurfaced head, should gain some good compression

Crank going back in

Why not give your crank the diesel bath it deserves after all of these years? It's been working so hard ;_;

What does a diesel bath do?

Diesel would work as a cheap degreaser and cleaner. Get a couple gallons of it and clean your parts in it.

really how hard is it to rebuild an engine
i have no garage and minimal tools but i still want to rebuild my shitty hyundai engine because the previous owner molested it

Ayyy, I remember you, glad to see you went straight 6.

I'd definitely soak things like the crank and anything else with any sort of film or gunk on it in some diesel, then clean them up really well.

If the crank doesn't need any resurfacing, you should at least have its bearing surfaces polished up too.


I'd also clean up that back side of the block with the rust if you hadn't anyways, you're already in there and it's totally apart, why not you know.

It's not all that hard, but it must be done right. In my opinion, the best way to learn is to just do it. Find a simple engine to take apart and put back together. I started on motorcycle engines, and they're probably the easiest to learn on, but you could potentially learn on your hyundai with no prior experience.
What would you be rebuilding exactly? Because there are different levels of rebuild, depending on how fucked the engine is. Sometimes new bearings/seals is all the engine needs. Sometimes the cylinders are worn and the engine will need to be bored, or the crank reground.

Honestly, if you have no proper shop and only minimal tools and experience, you'll struggle with a rebuild. It takes knowledge and patience. I'm not familiar with hyundai's but some engines require specialty tools during the rebuild procedure.

It all comes down to your level of motivation. With the right attitude, you can figure it all out on your own. You can learn by watching videos and browsing forums, and you can do most of the work with a basic (but complete) socket/wrench/pliers set. Like I said, you may need some special tools and I'm sure you can find all that out on a hyundai forum.

What is that, if I may ask?

Suzuki G? Or... ?

Is that the oil galley for the main bearings on top of the caps?

MUH DICK

It's a d15b6 out of a 1990 crx HF

Ah, cool.
I didn't know the D-series was an all-aluminum engine. Thanks, man!

How hard would it be to rebuild/upgrade the bottom end of a 1.8L BP-ZE (miata engine) myself in the garage? I have access to some pretty good tools but I don't know anyone personally who has done a bottom end rebuild on anything larger than a lawnmower.

Easiest way would be to pull the engine out and get it on a stand. From there, it's easy to remove the bottom end and swap out rods. Just make sure you understand the proper way to reassemble it. You gotta be thorough and do it the right way

Best bet is to start watching YouTube videos on how to do it

just want to replace 20 year old rod bearings and piston rings
maybe hone the cylinder wall because i know it's been run without oil for a period of time

No pics, but was helping a friend with his 1JZ swap into his 3rd gen Supra. We were 1 brass fitting away from trying to start it for the first time, but alas working late on a Sunday means parts stores are closed.

I installed a new battery, rebuilt my terminals and began removing the heater core. I also removed all the leafs from the vents in my doors.

kind of a cunt.

Restord interior of 78 mustang. Need to replace engine and transmission because theyre so worn out that blowby was filling up the cabin

Just got my XRR put back together after new steering head bearings and fork oil

fucking nice shifter though.

There are almost no aftermarket or replacement part manufacturers for mustang ii besides the front suspension so the carpet isnt a great fit and trying to find a replacement glove box hinge

Thanks man. I really like the little quick lockout from 2nd to 3rd
3/4

4/4. Ordered a more flush front bumper so it doesnt look so damn long

Building this K20Z3 head to swap onto my K24A2 block.
>Drag Cartel 3.2 Cams
>Supertech 92lb dual springs
>Supertech valve stem seals
>Skunk2 Stock spec valves

If I want to do the pistons and rods myself, is it necessary to remove the crankcase to install those? Or can I just pull the oil pan and pump and install them from there?

A little on my background: About 1.5 years experience working on cars - oil changes, transmission fluid change, exhaust install, full suspension install, clutch/flywheel install, engine swap, I've touched just about everything except internal stuff. I have plenty of tools, cherry picker, engine stand.

The motor has just over 100k mi on it so I'm thinking the internals should still be pretty fresh. I'm kinda spooked about pulling the crankcase because isn't the crankshaft shimmed/balanced and shit? If I absolutely must, I'll bring it to a machine shop, but I would much much much rather do this myself because I enjoy the challenge and working on my car. and also it would be cheaper.

Finally, on this cylinder head, I'm still waiting for the cams to arrive, but I want to install the valcves and valvetrain cause I'm getting kind of bored. Do I need to lubricate the springs and everything with a little bit of oil before installing? Is it fine if I install this stuff and it sits until I'm ready to pull the motor again in the spring? I'd cover it so it doesn't get a bunch of dust in it

Mustang II is a fucking underrated car.

I know the headliner looks like shit, but it was my first and i tried really hard. The sunroof was actually wrinkle free, and even though the glue was set, putting to seal on fucked everything up somehow

Looks good for a mustang II. I cant help but notice a 1978 ford in the background. Is that your motor/trans donor?

Pic is my project. It runs and drives, needs new tires amd carb though. I got mirrors for it. Some more bodywork and its done.

Burnout by truck
m.youtube.com/watch?v=9bQnu5TqJgQ

>amd carb
Boy, i really need to proofread. My carb is going to have many cores

Physically you could install pistons without removing the block, not sure if its worth the hassle over just unplugging and unbolting stuff. On normally owned cars it seems like rings and seals will last about 250k miles before theyre almost unusable

Thanks. Theyre super light in stock form, such a slow build because i have to piece everything from junkyards as i find it

I remember you mate. Looking forward to seeing where this goes.

Damn dude thats sexy. I love partially faded but otherwise good paint. No we have a roller 5.0 out of a foxbody that were just going to swap our good HCI onto. Actually found a clutch pedal assembly so hope to save for a T56 someday. The truck is a longbed 350 with no bed, all drum brakes, and a bulldog 4 speed. Its a masochists dream
>more cores carb
>muh ghz

> I love partially faded but otherwise good paint
here you go.

Beautiful truck

i'm from /hg/ and while not the biggest fan of cl's, I have always mired ur truck man

Question: my front two coilovers were fucked so I got Unity struts/coilovers. The ride is much more smooth now. But I'm thinking, should I also replace the rears for consistency's sake? They aren't busted afaik just 95k miles worn and a little rusty (much like everything else).

thanks man.

I am not the biggest fan of the CL, but it gets decent gas mileage, is super comfortable and has a kickass heater. I would love a TSX 6 speed or a TL Type S 6mt.

thanks mang.

>proper shop and tools
This. If you have a mechanic friend, ask if you can pay him for use of his lifts and tools and you do the labor. It will be so much easier.

Me too, I'm excited to get this project rolling. It's been a while since I've had my welder out and running.

Right now I'm trying to decide whether to leave the big 33" tires and enormous lift, or lower it significantly and put smaller tires. The current setup is great off-road. But daily driving is borderline impractical. Smaller tires (possibly even street tires) and lower suspension will make it much better suited for actual street driving. But of course, I don't wan to kill the "cool" factor of having a mini monster truck.

Thoughts?

Why not make it so you can switch between setups relatively easily? Lower for daily driving, and lift it right back up on the weekend if you want to go offroading.

That could potentially work. I could make some kind of adjustable body mount that raises the shell up in order to clear the bigger tires. And then use adjustable coilovers for the different driving style. Hmm, it just might be work...

just rebuilt the t5 tranny in my 92 s10 as well as replaced the clutch+related parts. did not replace slave or master cylinder. trans is good to go but does not feel like clutch is engaging fully at times. improves when I pump it up. bad slave cyl? air in the line somehow? bledding its a big pain in the ass i got some air out but not much. what should I try next

i always hated how t5's shift. they just are not good trannies.

Any mods?

I've got a '86 mk3 with a built 2jz single turbo

No pics because new phone

Been slowly rebuilding this thing piece by piece. Currently as of about 3 weeks ago have an exhaust/intake manifold stud snapped off at the block at the firewall, to tight a space to reach a drill or anything into. Probably have to take the body off to get to it, but that shouldn't be bad, plus the undercarriage and brakes have yet to be addressed and having the body already taken off would make both of those things much easier.

Going to keep it basically stock. May pick up another chassis for a lift and 4.8 swap, there's a guy supposed to be getting back to me about a $100 engine.

That thing is sweet!

My dad collects Willys jeeps, he has like 10 of em. Here's one we restored a couple years ago

>That thing is sweet!

Thanks, so is yours. Original engine?

I posted this in another thread but here it is anyway

Battle station

Yep, the flathead 4, fully rebuilt

It always blows me away how a little 134 cubic inch (2.2L) engine with a single barrel carb can manage to get as low as 12mpg on an average drive around town

I feel like doing something stupid, so I'm just gonna ask here:
What would be a cooler project, an Audi 4.2l V8 into a Porsche Boxster or an Audi inline 5 into a 944? Not talking about difficulty or cost involved, just simply which would be a cooler car.

I need to actually work on this shit. I have the knuckle and it's just sitting in garage needing to be cleaned up before I install it and make sure it fixes my problem.

I don't work Thursday or Friday so I'll probably do it all then.

>v8>i5
All day long

Not gonna lie, that particular swap is a big inspiration for my ideas.

I've yet to drive mine recently, once when I was 14 or so but it's been sitting since then. 12mpg huh? I've been wondering how bad it would be. Is that all city, hwy, or mix. Jeep looks really good, nice job. I don't think this one will ever be anywhere near that level of clenliness, it would take money and time that I just don't have. I'm just trying to get this one looking OK and preserve it. I have the l134 as well. What's 60hp feel like to drive? Is it not so bad considering the 5.38:1 gears and light weight or is it still underpowered for city driving?

>decide to check Autoscout for shits and giggles
>find pic related, '98 Boxster with engine damage for 4500 eurobucks
>also an Audi A8 4.2 for 700
Fug

That looks like a semi recently rebuilt engine you got there, looks good. These engines are only 60hp, but they're nice and torquey like a 4x4 should be.
Around town it's fine, plenty of power, the problem is that it tops out at 45mph. And if you're cruising around at 45mph for long periods of time you're revving the engine much higher than it likes hence the 12mpg

Oh, forgot to add the 45mph top speed isn't because the engine runs out of power, it's because it runs out of gearing

Please do it

Fuck that would be a great swap

I really want to now, especially since that Boxster isn't silver or black and it looks to be in otherwise good condition.

I'm orange ford dude. Recently i also got a 1982 chevy custom deluxe 4x4 long bed. Ran when parked. It was parked a few months ago. Traded a 1998 chevy 1500 with a wooden wide bed for it and a 1994 olds station wagon. Pics tomorrow

>pic is old picture of interior of my orange ford

>posting that comfy picture of piston and motherfucking sierra nevada

>nissan engine

you fucked up

Tearing my 260z apart and preping this L28 for a 3.2L stroker build, just recently found a LD28 crankshaft too.

I know you're most likely just trolling but,

Motherfucker do you know anything about L-series engines? This was the start of Nissan's golden era, and these babies were built to fucking last. Datsun Z cars (and really all pre-smog datsuns) are some of the absolute best cars of the 1970's. The L series (L16/18/20b/24/26/28) engines have god tier reliability. The cream of the crop. Right up there with Toyota's 22re or the Ford 300 I6. They're designed and built very well; virtually all major parts (cranks/pistons/rods/valves/timing cover) are interchangeable from '70 through '83 and also between the 4 and 6 cylinder blocks. They've got forged steel cranks and rods from the factory, a redline of 7000+rpm, and an overhead cam, which by 1970's standards is very good. Datsun Z cars and 510's kicked ass in motorsports back in the day and L series engines are still being modified and raced to this day.
Why? Because they're the one of the best goddamn engines ever made, thats why. 45+ years later and Datsuns are still looking great, running great, and holding their own.

Talk all the shit you want about Nissan, but don't hate on the motherfucking GOAT, the mothafucking Nissan L-series!

Noice. What kinda carb setup you gonna go with?

OP here
I also bought this '70 cj5 today. I found out (by offroading it) that it has a snapped front axleshaft. So I pulled the hub apart ,dug out all the chunks of broken shaft with a magnet, and ordered a new one. Also, bought a big waterproof canvas tarp possibly to try and make a homemade soft top for it

yeah woo
decent shitbox engine.

grow the fuck up and buy a truck
chevy or dodge

>grow the fuck up and buy a truck
not a terrible idea I guess
>chevy or dodge
Ya fucking blew it

i hear this story about a million engines.
so many were built to last. many american engines have a better track record. many by chevy and ford are superior in every way. this whole meme that japanese make superior engines really came from a span of two decades during which america was churning out shit. these decades have long since passed. dumb weebs still live in this time period and still like to pretend they are part of some engineering master race.
if anything your adornment only proves that you dont actually know shit about engines.

do you have any idea how reliable and powerful an AMC 242 or a lm/ls chevy engine is?
destroys japan shit in every possible way.

stop playing with retarded chun li sedan and buy a fucking truck

really cant imagine working on anything besides a truck engine.
cars are for servicing. change a belt, flush that power steering colum, etc. etc.
who the fuck wastes time rebuilding a car engine?

it doesn't deserve that kind of attention.
trucks on the otherhand you're supposed to take apart.
the whole thing is your baby. you work that driveloine all the way back into the rear diff. all the work is worth it.

nobody takes apart a nissan engine. not even for a nissan truck.
come on dude

You almost had me. I actually took the bait for a minute there and typed up a nice long, well thought out response with multiple links to different sites.

9/10

>muh turk
go back to fucking your sister

Engine swap!

durrr hurrr i am chinese racer X

sedan take turn all the way fast. not retarded
this fun and never pointless shit

truck is stupid witch bitch lol

Welp I'm buying a wrecked GM 2500 van from work, only has 83k miles. Gonna be pulling the 4.8 LS motor and the 4L80e and swapping it into my 1990 Toyota 4runner. Gonna run a np241c transfer case from my old suburban. Also keeping the IFS currently, until later we'll solid axle swap it, lift it and 37" tires. Hoping we can make the engine clear the IFS without too much work, probably have to run a custom oil pan...

Not really a question about projects, but how easy is it to pick up and do your own maintenance on a Mercedes Benz?

New engine for this, going from a 406 Chev to a 565 Chev

literally My Summer Car

I didn't know that the 2500 vans came with the 4.8, I assumed that they came with the 6.0's like the 2500 trucks
you might not have to get a custom oil pan made either since theres a lot of chevy cars/trucks that have ls based engines, but have different sized/shaped oil pans that will work with the 4.8. I even think the ls1 in the GTO's has a front sump oil pan so that's something to look into
sounds like a cool project

Thanks, yeah the 4.8 was an option, along with the 6.0 in the 2500s. It's an 2003 model. I think the 3500 vans all have the 6.0, I would love to have the current drivetrain from my 2013 3500 work van, 6.0 and 6L90 six speed auto... Ha

Also thanks for the idea with the stock pans, I'm hoping I can get it to fit without too much trouble. Apparently the LS swap isn't done to often in the 4runners and pickups.

Muh truck

the 4.8 is an LM
are you sure you know what you are doing?

i think the 4.8 is only an option for fleets
nobody puts a 4.8 into a 2500 series unless its a passenger van or something

nice flat fender bro, ever have it running?

I want to weld roll cages and mounts for wacky engine swaps. How do I into MIG welding?

Nah, it was easier.

Well considering the 4.8 is a LS based engine then calling it a 4.8 LS is acceptable. The actual letter combo is LR4 for the generation 3 LS based 4.8 V-8 since it's a 2003 model engine. The 4L80e is also a very durable 4 speed automatic which will work nicely for offroading. Just have to confirm the output shaft is the full 6.5" splined that is needed so I can cut it down to mount the transfer case on, since the transmission is currently a 2wd.

But thanks for asking