Need help

>not an EDZ Turbo
Found the hondafag

Audi 20V or K24.

why would you buy a blueprint engine 302 just to swap the whole rotating assembly for an aluminum block.

besides, an aluminum windsor is like 6k on its own.

Audi 20V turbo is an easy option, I suppose. Strong block, good aftermarket, and bolts right up to some of the best AWD transmissions on the market. Only downsides are its weight and the fact those AWD transmissions put the engine in front of the front axle.

the body is a very heavily modified citroen c4 not even close to stock dimensions much wider and longer with a bigger engine bay so pretty much any engine could go. i dont really want a big heavy 5 liter v8 which would be bad for cornering and for the jumps. inline 4 or a 5 cyl audi engine probably is the best solution. or a built v6 would be pretty good to.

You don't, you just ask BPE to assemble the engine with an aluminium block instead.

They used to be about 3500 USD.
hotrod.com/articles/ford-racing-z351-windsor-alloy-block/

I'm finding current market prices around 4000 to 4300:
jegs.com/i/Ford-Performance/397/M-6010-Z351/10002/-1
americanmuscle.com/frpp-aluminum-351-block.html

Blueprint probable uses something like a stock iron block which might cost 1K after machining and such. New iron blocks are around 1500 if you shop around, so an aluminium block would probably add about 3K to the crate 302's 4K pricepoint, ending up about the same as that 7K Coyote. 30hp short of course, but it'll be a lot lighter and easier to fit.

Have you converted it to longitudinal layout? Is it RWD?

If you're still FWD, stick to a K24 with a big turbo.

>Not an LCV
Found the Chryslershit idiot.

im going for a awd setup in it. can probably make some kind of a awd contraption for any engine, just looking whats the best engine to use in it.

nice. Still those are a 351 block. not bad though, would make a sweet hotrod base.

Then I'd go for a transverse setup with a K24 turbo. Maybe a 4G63.

You can still build a 302 out of a 351 block, it just depends on the internals.

I have a fetish for small blocks revving to 7K RPM with a 3'' stroke.

I do too. Problem would be finding rods and pistons that can make up for that deck height. It is totally doable, just a pain.

Can't you just mill some material off the block?

>some material
mayne it is like a 1.4 inch difference.

SPOTTED THE BTFO GM FANGIRL

I'm gonna suggest something stupid.

Destroked Audi 2.7TT V6. It's basically a V6 relative of VW's 1.8T with 2 turbos and serious power potential.
Destroke to 2.5 liters and maybe even get some extra revs out of it, too.

>Not a 306hp twincharged T6 VEP4
Addblasted Ford fanboy detected

>and maybe even get some extra revs out of it

THATS THE WHOLE FUCKING POINT

Yes, let's destroke the technological ngihtmare that is the 2.7 twinturbo, and then conform it to a series' turbo specs.

He'd be better off with just about any inline 4, maybe even Audi's inline five, with a turbo on it. No need to build a packaging clusterfuck of an engine.

he did warn that it is a stupid idea.
Stupid but interesting none the less

Rb20 desu

>iron block inline six over the front axle
It's like you want OP to understeer into a tree and die.

Coyote 5.0 XS Aluminator

450 to 500 HP naturally aspirated, peak power at 7500 and stable up to 8400

See >i dont really want a big heavy 5 liter v8

Anyways, a SBF or LS with an aluminium block built like DZ302 would make 500hp as well, but it'd be lighter and physically smaller so it'd fit more easily in the C4.

EJ257

Duratec/MZR, anyone? No? You guys are fags.

It's a very well known all-aluminium engine in rally/touring car circles, every tuner should have experience with it and theres fuckloads of aftermarket for it from companies like Mountune and Cosworth (Mountune built one for GRC and it packs over 500HP with a 45mm restrictor per motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3800/An-Inside-Look-at-mountunes-GRC-Ford-Duratec-Engine.aspx). They came in 2.3 guise so they should be easily stroked/bored to 2.5 if you desire and they take boost like fucking champs once you upgrade the piss-weak stock conrods. Plus, base engines are cheap and easy to come by so you can buy them by the dozen for R&D purposes.

Theres a reason why Caterham and BAC use these engines for their cars, user.

>You guys are fags.
No U. Also, Duratecs have been mentioned ITT.

>They came in 2.3 guise so they should be easily stroked/bored to 2.5 if you desire
No they won't. You can't just overbore a heavily boosted engine, it'll end up damaging stuff in the long run, either by weakening the cilinder walls themselves, or by simply removing the heat sinking capabilites. And no, there aren't any stroker cranks available for them.

Anything you said applies even moreso to 4G63 and K series, which are much more well known in tuner circles, with much more supporting hardware. There aren't any 1000hp Duratecs/MZR's, but there are multiple 1000hp 4G's and K's.

>the restrictor for the turbo is 43mm

This is why we can't have nice things

youtube.com/watch?v=09ge8T8T5MY

2.5 sti engine, for dat low center of gravity

Who gives a fuck if there weren't any 1000hp Duratec/MZRs? Only benchracing faggots like yourself care because I doubt anyone in OP's racing league have 1000hp in the 2.5L bracket, plus there is a 2.5L MZR and Duratec out there so your point is null

Personally, I would use either a Ford Coyote V8 or a GM 4.8L LS/Vortec V8. Both are vary capable of 100 HP per liter N/A, and being V8's, they have a large strong powerband with none of the turbolag present in high HP turbocharged engines.

>but the 4.8L LS was iron block only!
So swap it for an aluminum 5.3L block. The blocks are identical. The crankshafts and pistons are whats different between them.

At my local yard you can get a 302 from an Explorer for $375.

>just swap the blocks!

Are you literally retarded? It's not just a matter of swapping pistons when you're going from the 4.8 block to the 5.3, you have to replace the cylinders in the block as well and that gets expensive as fuck (like 3-$4,000 for Hondas so imagine what a veeyaaate will cost)

Just stick with a 4.8 block, and iron block means durability anyways

>that gets expensive as fuck
only if you go for brand new forged units.
It's FAR less expensive if you have a junkyard 4.8L and a junkyard 5.3L aluminum block. If you're careful enough, you can swap everything from the 4.8L into the 5.3L block with just new rings and bearings.

It costs a lot to pay someone to build an engine. But swapping cranks, pistons and heads isn't inherently expensive if you do it yourself.

It's a small block chevy, other not a Colombo v12

Are you saying swap the cylinders from a 4.8 to a 5.3?
no shit kk, but he's trying to keep the displacement 4.8 but swap the block which means you have to put cylinders for the 4.8 bore in the block, and which 5.3 are we talking here anyways? The Vortex 5300? Well you're fucked then cause the cylinders are cast into the block

No. Swap the crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons. Aside from the block material, it's the same block. The cylinder bores and bearing sizes are identical between the 4.8L and 5.3L. The 4.8L just gets flat top pistons and a shorter stroke crankshaft. They're otherwise identical.

BMW M50B25 turbo? They do 400hp easy and are cheap.

Literally all your swapping is the rotating assembly. Probably too better heads too but it's not exactly that hard. You'd probably want to replace the bearings and pistons with some upgraded ones to

Ahhh, nevermind then, I was under the impression the cylinder bores were different

Nah senpai. Check out out, they're bitching motors

superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1306-4-8l-vs-5-3l-engine-tech-little-ls-slugfest/

It out. Fuck my phone

Where can I get a 10 liter rotary

>Who gives a fuck if there weren't any 1000hp Duratec/MZRs?
It's just a measure of how much HP an engine cobo can take, and how much aftermarket support there is for it. There is much less support for the MZR.

>you have to replace the cylinders in the block as well
No, you're replacing the crank. Pistons are exactly the same (although one of the two is a flat top, the other has valve reliefs).

Iron block does not mean durability, and iron blocks are a lot heavier.

>Iron block
>Heavy inline six
>Non-factory turbo setup
Easily one of the worst choices ITT.

LS engine duuh ofc, just cut off a cylinder or two to make it under 5L.

There's several examples ITT on how to destroke an LS to below 5 litres. L2read.

What about the GM ecotec I4? Stock on the Cobalt SS made like 250hp turbocharged, you could probably get 400+ out of it if you tried

>engine
Who cares. What car are you using

>doesn't read the thread
Git out.