Convince me not to get an R34

Right-hand drive only.

It isn't the god car you think it is.

Then what is it?

America is not the only country in the world...

Who the fuck would do that?

I know, but apparently he doesn't.

R32 gtr and gtst are betterer

Average And heavy skid machine that can turn if you sink loads of money into it

>GTS-T
>ever

Why.

More than you can afford, pal. Nissan.

For the price you can get an S8.

>r32 better than r34

Only in your dreams buddy you'll have to modify it for it to compete with the r34 and then a modified r34 shits all over the r32

> (You)
>>r32 better than r34
>Only in your dreams buddy you'll have to modify it for it to compete with the r34 and then a modified r34 shits all over the r32
T. Benchracer

Cheaper and more plentiful

If you want RWD at least buy r33 (They are in fact super fucking cheap). R32 GTS come with a glorious 2 liter 6-banger. 33 and 34 at least have RB25.

>Cheaper and more plentiful

Good point. Hadn't considered that.

In Canada they're plentiful of rice, rust and haggard fixes from doing skids

Yes you should OP

>doesn't post the image
top kek, stay cucked, GM fangirl

wtf forgot my image

Didnt wanna make you cry.
Scumbag

>nigger still hasn't posted it

top kek, stay perma-butthurt, cuck

Report me nigger and cry some more

Americlaps are going to make them stupid expensive.

you'll be annoyed by bros jerking off over your car at every gas station and parking lot in the country

This.

R34 has electronic shit and updated suspension, oil pump, turbos, etc. but if you're modifying the car anyway why pay more initial cost for the car?

Only thing the lower trims have on the 32 is the 25 and accompanying trans, but swapping a 25 into a 32 is piss easy.

I don't think you understand just how different the R32 and R34 are.

If you want the R34, get the R34.

Go in backwards
Fucking dumbass

overpriced meme car
slower than a FWD GM shitbox
r35 is cheaper

Someone post some Rule 34 on the R34

Extremely overrated but the main issue is RHD if you're in a LHD country.
To be fair I'd rather have the overpriced meme car than numb, pigfat, boring meme car.

>buy stock r34 gtr
>put in 3.9 or 4.1 diffs
>destroy 95% of modern cars

Bumping for this.

stop posting this

don't get one.

they suck.

what are risks of LHD conversion?
im talking professional job at
kageki-racing com/en/services/lhd-conversion-nissan-skyline-r34.html

saving for some years i should be able to afford both skyline and LHD conversion.
im just afraid it would fuckup power somehow (heard you have to move some things)

This.

>cop bait
>theft bait
>parts will be an issue if you live in Cucknada
>illegal in Burgerstan

There's no alleviating the cop troubles you'll have in it, but having an immobiliser and visible (blinking) loud as fuck alarm in it might deter some of the scum that'd steal it. Also get a steering wheel lock.

They are practically the same car, with the 34 having some mechanical updates, most of which can be retrofitted to the 32 anyway. Which is my point.

Hell, an upgrade people do to the 34 is to put 32 diffs in them.

What is the stock diff?

The fuck is someone even going to do with a stolen R34?
How could they sell it and shit?

People don't steal rare cars that are easy to track down. They steal common shit that's easy to part out and have disappear.
Fucking clueless underage kids.

>What is the stock diff?
3.54

Thanks senpai.

But why not just swap the stock twins with a single EFR 7670 or 8374?
Should be good for about 400-550hp, while being significantly lighter and spooling quicker and at about the same initial RPM as the stock twins.

This is more an issue in Australia, where we've had Skylines for decades. Lebs used to steal them all the time, either to skid to death and find another or because they wanted a Skyline, consequences be damned. Ethnics aren't smart, and if you're not careful Habib is going to wrap your R34 around a power pole after trying to show off to a bunch of schoolgirls. Some shit cunts in NZ go about stealing sports cars too, either to try offloading to someone clueless or to part out.

You've also got niggers over in Dumbfuckistan. They're even worse, no?

People do that, but depending on the manifold you go with, it's just about the cost difference. If I can make the same power with low mount twins that bolt right on (and don't plan on going any higher), why would I drop thousands more on a single turbo?

But the R33 is FAT and very common

Get a r32 GTST-GTR with a RB26 swap its a common thing here in aus

A 7670 should fit down low, unlike the 8374. It's significantly smaller.

And a single turbo manifold isn't going to cost you much. Should be something around $2,500 to $3,500 in total as long as you don't buy an overpriced bolt-on kit.

A bogan stole my R32 GTR.

>not having a aftermarket security system and gps tracking

The 7670 is a $2,000 turbo by itself.
full-race.com/store/efr-series/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-7670-turbo-2.html/

Then let's say you go with a 6Boost steam pipe manifold. Starts at $1,200
golebysparts.com.au/parts/view/666/163/6boost-steam-pipe-manifolds/nissan/nissan-skyline-rb26-6boost-turbo-manifold-

You're at $3,000 roughly already, and now you have to get all lines custom made, downpipe, wategate(s), intercooler piping, ECU to run a map sensor, unless you stick with the twin AFMs but then you have to buy the twin AFM to single turbo intake.

For over 600, sure I'd go single, but for 500 I'd definitely stay twin. And actually that's exactly what I'm doing now, and doing my dyno in about 4 hours. (I went Garrett -9 turbos, with Tomei Type B Poncams)

You would attract more attention than a Veyron.

No shit. Is owning a car all about the attention it gets from normies?

It's $1600 advertised all over.
You can get them a few hundred bucks cheaper, new, from forum sellers.
And you can get used ones from indycar racing for about $650.

Oh wait I might be thinking of the 7163. My bad.
Which is also not a bad turbo choice, which should be good for like 375-425hp, and will spool much quicker than stock while delivering more power and being less restrictive.

Okay, so a few hundred less, and now down to 425hp on the high end, AND you still have to get all the other shit too. That's pointless as fuck. Twins will be full on at 3000-3500 anyway, anything lower than that is getting pointless, the 26 is more useable at higher rpm anyway.

For most it is.

More like almost $1500 less if you go for a used 7163. Or $1000 less going used plus an inspection and rebuild to be safe.

And I'm being incredibly conservative with the 375-425hp, you should know that. Still talking over 100hp over stock while being much lighter, quicker boost response, and peak boost 1-2 thousand RPM sooner.
Not to mention increased health of the engine, with lower EGT and EMP.

People are making 500whp with the 7163 on 4g63s. So really more likely talking in the 475-600 range with a hotter tune.

You just don't really have examples of the 7163 on the r34 because people like going hur dur huge turbos like the 8374 or 2 6258s.
A lot of which because people had a big single snail before, and went with matching similar size turbines and inducers with the EFRs, not realizing the EFRs flow better for a given size and they really should have sized down 15-25%.
But most people want as much power as possible instead of making something clean and just superior to OEM, even if it's actually slower than a smaller turbo due to a peaky power band. Fuck dyno queens.

Well there ya go. I'm not super well versed in turbochargers, all I'm going off of is what I've seen in person.

>dyno queens
Oh I know the type. My friend saved up and saved up and bought a fucking journal bearing PTE 6266, on Raw Brokerage's twin scroll stainless mani, AEM infinity, ID 1000cc injectors, big Tial gates with screamers, and big Tial BOV.

And left the engine stock. Not even cams. That bitch wouldn't spool any sooner than 4400 rpm. But hey, he made 547hp.

7163 mounted to a 4g63 for a size example.

Supposedly people have low mounted GT35s to R34s, so there's no reason it shouldn't work.

You have to understand that the *only* reason twin turbos were used in the 90s was a lack of technology.
There is no other benefit.

>Well there ya go. I'm not super well versed in turbochargers, all I'm going off of is what I've seen in person.
I don't know much about the RB26 tuning scene, but I have a fair deal of engineering knowledge and know that most tuners are complete retards. Including ones making 800+ hp R34s and FDs.

I glanced around the R34/RB26DE forums and saw the same sort of complete braindead morons that don't know what they're doing that I see in the rotary scene. Same scene where people are putting only 7670s and 8374s on their cars and think the 7163 is too small, despite the 7163 being far superior to stock twins in every single way.

In the 90s there weren't many large turbos. It's harder to balance and such, have the tolerance tight enough and so on for OEM reliability, for a larger bit of spinning mass. So they used two small ones if they wanted to make more power. But while the turbos are more reliable that way, there's various consequences that harm engine reliability.
Don't you notice that every modern car is a single turbo, except for V engines?
Parallel twin turbos on an i6 is pants-on-head retarded with modern technology. So are sequential, just less so.
Now that you can actually buy a modern turbo like an EFR, going twin turbo on a non-v engine is very stupid.

I only on a 13b-REW, the 7163 reaches 1 bar at around 2200rpm.
On the RB26DETT it reaches peak boost at what, around 4400, right? Wow that's super delayed.
I don't know a bunch about the RB26DE, but I know you can run similar turbos to the 13b and there are some parallels.

If I owned an R34, which maybe I will one day, I'd definitely put a low mount single 7163 on it instead of copying these clueless idiots.

I know on a 13b-REW, not "I only".

Theyd fuckin better not

Why does it matter?

E46 m3 + $10k in mods is cheaper and a fuckload faster than the r34

>its the same engine
>the same diplacement
>the same drivetrain
>the same power *
But nah dudebroman the r34 is wayy quicker my mandude

The aero is different. The R32 has severe front lift issues at speed, this is well documented by engineer interviews. The drag coefficient is much higher as well, a bigger wing isn't going to solve the issue of how the R32 exposes so much tire in the frontal aspect. The R32 lacks a front and rear diffuser too which means downforce in general is lacking. The R32 has a much worse weight distribution. The gas tank, front-mounted battery, and a whole host of other things is responsible for this.

The R32 GT-R also has far worse chassis rigidity. At minimum you need a trunk bar, two strut tower bars, chassis spot welding, and a whole host of other reinforcing bars to catch up to the R34 in chassis rigidity. Otherwise mid-corner bumps are going to cost you quite a bit of speed compared to an R34.

This isn't even going into suspension tuning or anything else. If you read some books on the Skyline GT-R you'll see that the power delta between the R32 and R34 isn't huge but the difference in how well the R34 puts power down is enormous. People just have no background in engineering and don't understand that there's more to a car than the engine. This isn't even getting into the differences in ATTESA, HICAS, and ECU.

Don't get me wrong, you can absolutely get an R32 GT-R upgraded to the point that it will be a better car, but the amount of time and knowledge that it takes to do this in a non-halfassed method means buying an R34 GT-R from the start is arguably cheaper.

The problem for me at least is that I don't see a well-engineered single conversion kit for the RB26. I would rather just trust that Garrett has actually done engineering work on their side and bolt on two -9s with SiN ball bearings and do the bare minimum of fucking with the engine as possible.

With HKS VCAM you'll be at 1 bar before 3000 RPM: rhdjapan.com/hks-sport-turbine-kit-gtiii-ss-rb26dett.html

NOT EVERYONE LIVES IN BURGER LAND YOU FAT FUCK

Most of the world drives on the right side of the road. Don't assume he lives in Burgerland because he drives right

>The drag coefficient is much higher as well
The drag coefficient may be higher, but the frontal area is lower, making it more aerodynamic.

But yes. They are completely different cars. They share very few parts in common and they are on a different chassis.

>The problem for me at least is that I don't see a well-engineered single conversion kit for the RB26
Yeah, I'm not seeing one either but I know it's possible. You just have to make it yourself. Get a local racing mechanic to do your custom fab, which will cost less than a kit does.

What I would actually do is use the stock exhaust headers and add a V shaped header that connects them to a twin scroll 7163 instead of using a completely new header. Would probably cost $200-$300 for a good custom fab job for it and is an idiot proof design. Then another of that for your downpipe. Simple as well (besides your gasket, turbo oil piping, etc, obviously, but that's are off the shelf stuff.. or if you really want to get an aluminum oil line and bend it yourself instead of using something flexible)

>With HKS VCAM you'll be at 1 bar before 3000 RPM: rhdjapan.com/hks-sport-turbine-kit-gtiii-ss-rb26dett.html
Again, I'm being REALLY conservative. I like conservative, street tunes. Like a clean, modern car, instead of that blow-up-in-25km-or-when-the-weather-changes shit. With a 7163, you'd likely be more around 1.7bar at 3000rpm if you're using race gas and such, and 1 bar would happen a few hundred rpm earlier.

There are NO aftermarket turbos that spool up as quickly and have as good of aerodynamics for any given size. Nor ones that are slightly smaller.

Think of a 7163 as a turbo which compressor is almost as efficient and flows almost as well as a GT38, yet it's the size of a GT28, yet it flows exhaust almost like a GT38, yet it spools up quicker and earlier than a GT28. You're comparing modern tech to 20 year old tech.

>The drag coefficient may be higher, but the frontal area is lower, making it more aerodynamic.

I'm pretty sure that even compensated for area the R32 is less aerodynamic.

>Yeah, I'm not seeing one either but I know it's possible. You just have to make it yourself. Get a local racing mechanic to do your custom fab, which will cost less than a kit does.

I would rather not fuck with the engine to that extent. Less is more. Parallel twins is retarded on an I6 but that's what Nissan did and living with that is just part of it. There are a lot of engineering considerations to make here and unknown unknowns.

full-race.com/store/efr-series/manifolds-efr-series/nissan-rb26-25-20-det-t-twin-scroll-iwg-efr-turbo-manifold.html/

This kit is expressly designed for the RB26 but right away you can see a possible case where mods can interact negatively. This manifold is designed for the stock intake plenum which is lean on cylinder 6. If you used the Nismo GT Plenum which is designed to balance airflow to all cylinders, cylinder 6 would end up rich.

>Again, I'm being REALLY conservative. I like conservative, street tunes. Like a clean, modern car, instead of that blow-up-in-25km-or-when-the-weather-changes shit. With a 7163, you'd likely be more around 1.7bar at 3000rpm if you're using race gas and such, and 1 bar would happen a few hundred rpm earlier.

That's nice, but even the Garrett 2859R-9 with stock twins will have turbo shuffle at low RPMs if you don't replace some of the stock piping.

Garrett is also updating the -9s with ceramic ball bearings instead of the metal ball bearings used before. So they will spool even faster than the HKS GTIII SS which has fucking journal bearings.

I'm all for people pushing the envelope, but for a personal street car I would say you want to mod as little as possible and avoid messing with things you don't understand. You can easily mod a car to be worse than it was before.

my evo x mr cost me less and is faster and better in every mesurable way

just let it go guys

Damn dude how mad are you

>This kit is expressly designed for the RB26 but right away you can see a possible case where mods can interact negatively. This manifold is designed for the stock intake plenum which is lean on cylinder 6. If you used the Nismo GT Plenum which is designed to balance airflow to all cylinders, cylinder 6 would end up rich.

Yep I saw that header. People are retarded.
It's designed to put the turbo up and and up front so you have room for a large compressor in front of the wheel well. That's for 8374 and shit.

That's why, you know, I said you use the stock twin turbo headers which balance 3 cylinders, and just add a joiner manifold to mate them to a twin scroll rather than two separate turbos.
Very simple, elegant solution.
But obviously with any major mods, you're going to need to remap.

Only attention whores do that.

Literally only idiots go through a drive through as well. It's always faster to go inside. Always.

And as for intake manifold, I'd make a custom manifold attached to a Mercedes AMG a2w intercooler that sits on the side of the engine and flows more evenly to all cylinders rather than the Nismo one, with faster boost response and even more room freed up in the engine bay(and less up front), if I were doing a build like this anyway.

I wouldn't look at what others are doing with R34s. I looked around, and I see one of the most retarded tuning scenes ever. They're as dumb as 95% of the rotary tuners, with none of the 5% that actually knows what the fuck they're doing.
Maybe if you can read Japanese and Japanese websites, it's better.

Also, what's the intake manifold that loops around over the top? Is that not the stock, non-Nismo one? That one looks good. You could sit an a2w intercooler up there too and have much shorter plumbing that way, as well.

I still wouldn't fuck with it unless I'm willing to go through the effort of doing extensive testing and validation. CFD at minimum.

Nismo and the big Japanese companies making parts for the Skyline GT-Rs are usually doing their due diligence on engineering. Emphasis on usually. You can do some Google translate and r33gt-r.com is a pretty decent blog sometimes for getting info on what Japanese tuners are doing.

Common mods these days include swapping a bunch of R35 GT-R parts into an RB26 GT-R like the R35 Brembos, R35 injectors, etc. A good reference is the Nismo parts catalog: nismo.co.jp/en/products/nismo_parts/parts.html#3

From what I can tell front-mounted intercooler is probably the best configuration as that's where the stock one sits.

I would probably say for a street build for practicality/less effort I'd go with GT2859R twins. Nismo has a lot of nice parts but they're expensive as shit, especially if there's no direct equivalent like their carbon fiber air inlet kit: rhdjapan.com/nismo-factory-line-carbon-air-inlet-pipe-bcnr33-bnr34.html

Computational fluid dynamics testing?
What?

For what.. the flow into the manifolds...?

Making a joiner manifold that matches to the stock ones to mount to a twin scroll is idiot proof.

Is it? I've spent years learning about engineering and in a lot of cases what seems like an easy job really isn't. Unless you've actually tried the conversion I wouldn't be so sure.