/classic car general/ - CCG

a little harder, it's based on the Isuzu pup, while the S10 has provisions for a 4.3 vortec which is just 3/4 of a 350 chevy.

No. I'm not hurting for money and I love the interior.

I feel it. I have 0 desire to own a fiero though.

and you already have one mid engined 80's box.

While it doesn't exactly do anything that my DeLorean doesn't, it is one of approximately 2,000 Indy Pace Car Edition models. It was a one-year option and the only one which had the red and light gray interior.

84 F-150 died a couple weeks ago coming back from a camping trip. I had tuned it a long time ago and it ran great for 2 years. It just died out of the blue and wouldn't run. Just backfired through the carb. Checked out timing and it was dead on. Compression was low in a couple cylinders so I puled the head and brought it to a machine shop today. Hopefully I will hear back in a week. A water test last night showed leaks in on multiple valves so I'm hoping a cleaning and valve job makes it right again.

Can one of you dudes help me out? I'm stranded right now.
I have an old Thriftpower 6 250CI and the carb isn't set right, keeps blowing gas out the carb before it dies on me, and it won't idle.
Any help would be much appreciated, my dudes.

Where is it blowing gas out? do you have a picture?

I have a video dude. Let me try to upload it somewhere

Okay

Please excuse the vertical video
youtu.be/sX5g8_E_BI8

Try smacking the float bowl sharply with a hammer or something. Your float may be stuck open.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but that sounds a little suspicious.
Here's a photo of the inside of the carb too, dude. It kind of looks like there's a clear piece in the way.

Sorry, it's metallic rather. And it looks like the shutter that's supposed to be at the bottom of the carb. Is it supposed to be closed like this?

Yes, that's your throttle.

Gotcha, sorry for the stupid questions

It's no problem. If that doesn't work then you'll prolly need a tow because you'll have to be digging into the carb.

Anyways, last time it did something like this it turned out to be the air fuel mixture on the side, but I've been adjusting that for a good while with no progress. Could it be possible I'm flooding it or something? Any ideas on how to help me figure out how to set it?

The idle adjustment screw and air mixture screws are out far enough where I can turn them with my fingers too.

Sorry for replying to myself to update, kind of stressed I guess

>Could it be possible I'm flooding it or something? Any ideas on how to help me figure out how to set it?
No, it wouldn't even fire in that case. The fact that it's running when you're on the throttle means that it's getting a burnable mixture but it'll flood if you don't stay on the throttle.

Your float level may be too high or it's stuck open.
Did anyone work on the carb recently?

>Want to buy a classic car
>No bank/Credit union will give me a decent finance plan (10k on 36 month loan at BEST)
>Any car i like is way over priced or far as fuck
>Any car in my price range is shit or a drag car

I just want a highway cruiser thats cool looking, somewhat reliable, and not an 8mpg monster...

All novas are either built up or uglier later models

Mustangs are shit of boomers know what they got

Dream car gets horrible mpg in its most tame build combo (350/th350/2.73)

Current daily driver gets 13mpg, is falling apart, and i just dont want it anymore. I dont want to buy a 3k civic or anything built past 75 for that matter (fuck plastics, emissions, and electronics).

What do?

They have not.
That trick you were talking about earlier, how can I unstick the bowl from the outside of the carb dude? Do I open the throttle and just push down?

No you smack the float body with a hammer or something hard and it may be enough force to unstick the float from where it its.
If it doesn't work one or two times then don't do it again, carbs are soft metal.

Stop looking at boomersleds.

four doors will always be cheaper, Mercury cougars will be cheaper than mustangs, etc.

And I would imagine that the large cylindrical peice on the right side is the float bowl?

4 doors make it kind of hard to find a more "economical" muscle car (yes yes, i know. But 4 doors look ugly except for 60's versions, huge caddies, or impalas; which all go for a premium and they would suck majorly on gas)

>inb4 smiles over miles
my DD gets 13, maybe 14. Id like to at least get high teens on the highway, I6 mustangs interest me because you can actually get mid 20s from them.

looks like it, if that's where the fuel lines goes.
Don't go Stone Cold Steve Austin on it but give it a decent smack.

Classics don't drink gas like you think they do.

Big blocks will manage 17-18 mpg because they're barely working to keep the car moving.
8mpg would be something you'd find like a blown, tuned big block.
You're not going to have your cake and eat it too.

> I6 mustangs interest me because you can actually get mid 20s from them
The unfortunate reality is that, while they can achieve 20's or so, you're going to be stomping on the gas to get any power and that'll drag your mpgs down considerably.

Decided just to call a tow truck and drive something else till I get this figured out, dude.
I've had a lot of issues when it's come to carburetors, which is a shame because this motor has been running really well. But, is there a specific brand or carb you can recommend specifically for a 250 CI Falcon 6 motor? The dude who has been helping me out with my car has insisted on cheap crap but I'm tired of issues like this.

Remanufactured carbs are shit that usually never works.
It's good to buy a carb and rebuild it yourself from a kit.
Not sure what carbs Fords use though.

I think I have the original carb for this car. How difficult do you think it would be to rebuild myself?

Not too hard, there's probably instructions all over the internet for any kind of carb

Alright, rad. I might just rebuild that one then.
Thank you so much for your help my dude. I appreciate it, really.
Have a good one, alright dude?

NONONONO

DO NOT HIT YOUR CARB WITH A HAMMER

USE THE HANDLE OF A SCREWDRIVER

HITTING YOUR CARB SHARPLY WITH A HAMMER WILL RESULT IN A HUGE HOLE IN THE SIDE OF THE CARB

PIC UNRELATED

I'm new to Veeky Forums and pretty much all car shit, but I did just acquire a nice 77' Ford Ranchero GT with a pristine body. Perhaps this isn't a classic car but I didn't want to waste a new thread just asking, what you guys think I should do to it to give a better vintage appeal to it?

no problem
That's why i said be gentle my mang.

looks nice as is, dude.
but using anything metal at all is not a good idea to unstick a needle inside a carb. you want something made from wood or plastic. all you want is some percussive maintenance, not destructive maintenance.

Wow nice find. I think maybe paint it a different color?

>but using anything metal at all is not a good idea to unstick a needle inside a carb. you want something made from wood or plastic. all you want is some percussive maintenance, not destructive maintenance.
If you're stuck on the road then anything will do.

The plastic end of a screw driver is what I ended up using, dude. I don't carry hammers with me.

How much did you snag it for?

>no one answered my question
Bruh guys what intake should I buy

The one that fits

a dual quad tunnel ram

They all fit

I agree
>But it would be shit on a road vehicle

>They all fit
buy them all and weld them all together for ultraflow

Get a Weiand 6-71

low quality bait

>>no one answered my question
that's because nobody likes your communist pansy ass

>research VIN
>car built in Detroit

This is a good feel.
A shame that the capital of the automotive industry is now a rotting corpse.

1976 nova concours hatch

I started my own thread but I'll repost here for help too. Cars a 79 camaro with a 350

Well guys I'm about loosing my mind right now. I'm the guy who's carburetor was tampered with a few days ago (choke set spring and housing completely pulled out by someone) and drove it like that for about 10 days. The car was surging in throttle and rough idling and refusing to start without some heavy throttle

After finally getting time to work on it i saw the problem and I put it back into the Quadrajet and set it to where the car can easily start on cold mornings. Set the idle speed as best I could with a photo tachometer and (gauges broken) and set the air/fuel idle screws all the way in and then turned back 2.5 turns.

It runs more or less okay not as quick and snappy as it used to be but not knocking or anything. I changed the spark plugs too since they were a little crummy and it seems to run decently, the problem is im pulling 15 on the vacuum gauge from it. I heard that normal is like 25-30?

I'm freaking out guys what the fuck is wrong? I have a mild cam, a corvette intake manifold and a roller rocker valve job done and an accel super coil. does this affect the vacuum pressure?

Also, after I changed the plugs and set the air/idle and what not while the car was running, I shut it off for something and then it wouldn't start. I could hear the starter whirring as well as the flywheel so I'm assuming I wasn't getting spark. Could this all be my coil going bad? Please help dudes

350 chevy swap.

Spray starting fluid around intake seals and see if the engine surges at all.
If it does, you have a leak.
if you have a leak and you tuned to account for the leak, you'll have to re tune it.

>not just running 4 webers
>dat feel when I don't know that feel.

would be tits, but that's like 2 or 3 grand compared to about 150.

get cukt, I just caught, killed, cooked and ate a 14 pound fish.

In 10-20 years this is going to be one of the coolest cars to have.

>>not just running 4 webers
>want 30 feet per gallon

no it is not, it will be blurred out of the existence of man.

>dat noise and flow though.
but honestly, unless you are running nascar style valvetrain with a bored out engine, you do not need that much air.

>but honestly, unless you are running nascar style valvetrain with a bored out engine, you do not need that much air.
What, you don't buy surplus nascar engines?

nah famalam, I am buying a motor out of a shrekt exploder

Install bodykit

>pine sol bath stripped the dull gold finish on my Holley

Good news is that it already freed the secondary float.

The Jacaranda trees are in full bloom in Australia making for great driving scenery.

...

when does it start raining spiders?

not until next month

Playing around with painting wheels black last night. Not sure I'm sold on the look.

...

silver looks better for centerlines

>tfw parking next to other classics in parking lots
the best feel

>pull carb out of pine sol
>rinse it off with water
>let it dry
>oxizidation on every surface 3 hours later
So i sprayed it down with PB blaster liberally
What can i do to it to prevent it from oxidizing?

If you haven't already, I highly recommend the performer.

rusting? Or is your paint just fucked?

Regular, rpm or air gap?

The aluminum is corroding as noted by flaky white shit all over and the steel bits are rusting, they turned reddish brown.
The paint came off with the pine sol.

So it's basically bare metal.

If you need something immediately, rub some oil on the metal. You'll need to spray something on it to stop the oxidation though

i doused it in pb blaster and that fixed it so far.

Yeah that'll do

I suspect that it will be a collector vehicle in a decade or so; that's part of the reason I got it. That, and it was free. While I paid for some work to get it on the road, I have less than $3k invested in it. I'll probably keep it in storage like I used to do with my Bricklin.

denver.craigslist.org/cto/5877615309.html

>boomers

Let me offer you the privilege to spend tens of thousands for the low low price of 7500

Gorgeous car, dude.

Missing dry season road trips hard, dumping summer pics from the road.

Vulture Garage - Spences Bridge, BC

>almost no rust

...

70 Mile, BC

...

>that 68 galaxie

oooohhh would you look at that

Coalmont, BC

...

Keremeos, BC

...

Princeton, BC

Greenwood, BC