Broken stuff you should fix thread

>96' 6.5 Suburban
>replaced vacuum pump, went from no boost to unstable/fluctuating boost
>window wiper broken, ordered new motor
>idler arm, pitman arm, tie rods, all shot to shit. ordered new everything
>4wd making a lot of noise, haven't a clue
>at least ordering parts from US to Norway is 1/5th of the price

I'm feeling a bit exited for next weekend.
Post shit you gotta fix on your car.

Pic semi-related, rusted shitbox w210 I had.

>6.5 Burban
Color me jelly

I got a turbo off of a 6.5 at a junkyard. Have been planning on putting in on a 5.3 with a knock (pic related but recently got a new rod pressed on it) I got for $300 but still haven't done it. I've had the thing over a year now...

>95' Starlet GT turbo
>find out on a sunday my front tires are completely bald
>swap front tires with rear tires cause they got plenty of tread and 2 b a little more safer for now
>new tires ordered today

My life.

Feels bretty gud mayne. So much room, too. Gonna use it as a "camper" on a euro roadtrip next summer.

GM-4 or GM-8? Either case they should be pretty reliable turbos. Mine's working fine, probably never been replaced in the 186k miles it's done.

Are you okay, user?

As long as I have a car and a road, I'll be ok.

>nick's car is in the paint shop
Who is this mystery GT turbo driver

>AC compressor clutch grounded to itself
Well then.


Thx for the maymay

>93 D250 diesel
> broke shock bolt
> bad headlight switch connector
> leaky brake line
> leaky rear seal
Been too busy to work on it. Maybe in a week I'll get time to work on it.

I never posted before so yeahh :^)

Hm, thats weird - it seems a bit familiar to my friends W202...

>front end missing

I'm making slow progress but I prefer to drink instead

>04 trailblazer
>need to replace the whole instrument cluster, only the tachometer works
>CEL is on for the secondary air injection system and engine coolant thermostat
>it's about time for an oil change

im a lazy fucker though

Still got the dent, gotta try to get it fixed soon...

My x5 has a fukt instrument cluster, only the tach works, I've been using Waze as a spedometer

>95 probe 4cyl
>did coolant flush
>now overheating problems above 60mph
>overheats when the heat is on
>been ongoing issue
>said fuck it ill keep it under 60
>pissing coolant everywhere
>overheats for no reason now
>almost ran it dry a couple months ago
>refill it same problem
>decide to do the thermostat and another flush
>on the day of the job it's driving fine
>can now do 90mph without nary an issue
>can thrash it and it doesn't get hot
>everything normal
>heat works
>has been like this for a week
>don't know what to do now

Learn how to bleed the system properly the first time from now on.

Just replaced my front shock mount bushings. It had Energy Suspension ones when I bought the car but they must have been well over a decade old so they needed replacing. Luckily the OEM ones weren't in there because that would have been a bitch to remove. Rides a million times better now.

After my bills and rent I'm gonna replace my shifter ball seat and install my new exhaust.

You flushed a hot engine with cold water... probably.

Thermostats don't like sudden changes in temperature as there's a metal filament in them that shrinks and expands due to the heat of the coolant. This needs to happen gradually else the metal filament snaps and closes the thermostat permanently. Which is what likely happened in your situation.

So the thermostat was most likely the issue. Which you already fixed.

Could be the thermostat, but probably wasn't bled.

I usually just pour water in it full, then start it up till it gets warm or starts overheating, then quickly shut er down, pop the top radiator hose off, and pour water in. If it comes out the top of the radiator, you're good, but if it doesn't take any, it probably has a fucked thermostat, or isn't hot enough.

How did all you guys learn how to fix these things on your car, I bought an 84 corvette over the summer and want to fix some things on it but I never took a shop class in high school and have no experience.

i just started reparing shit
couldn't even do a battery last summer, just got done doing a head swap + cams for my 06 Mustang GT. started with an alternator then i started doing performance mods and basic maintenance to gain mechanic confidence. it helps to have like minded buddies.

A combination of Google, YouTube, forums for the car you own, and simply asking Veeky Forums. I didn't get into cars until I was 26 years old. It's really not too bad as long as you take your time.

Look around your area for others that drive the same brand and you can build up a network of bros to get parts or help from.

It's a GM-8. Had to rebuild it with new bearing/bushing and seals since it had a bit of play and looked like it was leaking a nice amount of oil. The compressor and compressor housing look like they touched a bit but it shouldn't hurt too much for the 8-10 psi I plan on running it at.

It'll probably be fine.

>pick up (heh) dads 6.5 pickup since wipers are ded and I can't see shit
>give it a long test drive
>about 30min into the drive, give it about 70% on the throttle through a corner
>loud as fuck knocking sound out of nowhere
>maybe 3-4 knocks before i let off the gas
>sound is gone and doesn't reappear
>drive like a granny back home and park

6.5 wizards, what happened? I'm scared.

I own a w123, my front springs look like that too

I just use a speedometer app on my phone. I might buy a small GPS for christmas and use that so I don't drain my phone battery

Sounds like a dirty injector.


First gen bro

>have it and the gasket just can't be bothered
Rear brakes
>have most of the parts just don't feel like stripping more brake lines yet.
Front right wheel hub
>have a replacement but captive rotors are a pain in the ads.
Also have a coolant leak but it's not cold enough for me to care yet, I just keep filling her up with tap water.
Engine idles at 200rpm
>hope this gets better when I fix my cooling system
Pretty sure my cooling fan doesn't work.
>can't tell cause stuck open thermostat.
Needs all new bushings for the from suspension and an alignment.

I think that's everything.

>82 Celica
>clutch master cylinder
>fuel tank
>axle shaft seals
>diff seals
>gearbox seal
>front tires
>front shocks
>rear wiper
>front discs
>ignition advance adjustment
>carb tune
>oil pan gasket
>water hose
>driver's door
>various bulbs
>passenger door handle

I'm not gonna make it bros ;_;

Just replaced plugs n wires on my v8 chebby. Went from not starting in my driveway to starting like a fucking CHAMP. Also replaced a battery from 2005 in her, surprising how well that 11 year old battery still worked. Replaced it just to be safe.

Feels so fucking good.

>Broken stuff you should fix

It would be easier to list the stuff that isnt broken or needs repair

>all glass, including mirrors
>brake lights
>right bank of indicators
>indicator and wiper stalks
>hazard button
>rear and forward props
>transfer case

Everything else needs help or serious attention

>i just sold another vehicle because it was in worse condition.
>tfw the guy still has $500 for me but i dont care because i am so happy to get rid of that heap


Baby steps and you will, user.

You should consider buying something not broken.
Or not, fixing broken stuff is fun.

Haven't a clue if that's bad or really really bad.
Are there other things that might make a knocking sound?

i live in an area where importing an insurance write off from a first world country is the equivalent of "buying new"

Also i spent my professional hours fixing and social hours fixing. I have had one too many candle light and dying flashlight in mouth style repairs completed at 2am for a truck to go to work (sometimes me driving) at 6am to find enjoyment anymore.

I'm surprised you still have the fog lights.

>bronco plow truck
>broke a radius arm last year
>broke the driveshaft this year
>I have fixed neither

Should be fun to plow with my wounded one leg horse

>Oil all over the bottom of my engine bay
No idea where it's coming from, it doesn't drip in the driveway it just shits it all out when it gets too hot.

Apart from that it's fine, only odb1 code is for "VRIS #1 solenoid" Which from what I can gather is like "V-tec" but intake based.


Automotive and marine/industrial thermostats use a wax pellet, not a metal filament. Never seen a coolant thermostat use a metal filament to open the thermostatic valve before.

My 11yo Doge has rotten oil pressure sensor connector that gives me CEL, so I can't even renew my expired registration.

The biggest problem is that I don't want to remove alternator to get there properly so I expect to replace the connector by feels.

Front suspension creaks like mad in certain driving situations and I don't know why

Bad valves, worn connecting rod bearings, injection timing.

>99 Maxima
>All 3 02s are bad
>Both of the CKPS and the CMPS don't work right
>Running a tune that is lying to my engine telling it everything is ok
>Getting 10mpgs
>Cat's blown out
>Starter burned out a year ago
>Valve covers leaking
>Oil pan leaking
>Timing 100000 miles overdue
>Tires are 10years old

Last time I drove it I topped out the speedo (140mph)

>lifter tick

At least blasting the heat drowns out the sound

Probably not going to get around to it any time soon

I need to get my valves adjusted, I hate the sound of the engine when on low gears through tunnels

Need to fix my tach. Could be a simple fuse, or it might not. Thankfully it's a super simple setup. Still feel bad cause it was my fault; pulling fuses with the truck running..

Need to straighten out the frame, replace my broken but working steering column, and plug the slight water leak on the windshield. All in all not too much for a 31 year old truck

Why not check the fuse, takes all of 2 seconds

>fill up oil to F mark
>rocker arm ticking stops
>next day it starts again and i've lost 500ml of oil
>no leak to be seen
Only thing i can think of is the crankcase vent being stupid and shitting oil into my intake
Plus still have brake pads sitting on my shelf because the old ones wont die

>'97 avalon
>Work daily
>tie rod ends
>power steering hoses, slow leak when cold, until mostly empty
>left wheel bearing
>all that rust from the North East

>1990 safari
>knocks when weight comes off right hand side (usually while turning
> rev counters dodgy (tempory fix is whacking top of dash)
>PCV hose is broken, pisses a tiny bit of oil out and makes the truck smell like oil at the lights
>still ticks after 3 tappet adjustments an oil change and a new exhaust gasket (its much better tho)
> oil pressures low but there, new oil pump is like 350nzd and requires removing radiator and timing gear cover so i cbf

Pretty easy to get the radiator and associated bits off. Budget a day and get into it.

If it's a TD42, it'll never stop ticking.


fuck, got castrol gtx in it atm, gonna get some delo 400 online next because no cunt stocks it, and yep td42

I did, and it looks fine. Gonna replace it when I get home anyways. I've been away on a job for 3 days

GTX isn't bad, probably on the same par as Delo 400. I used Castrol RX Super in mine for a very long time.

Knocking when coming off throttle or weight off that side is likely the lower control arm bushes. Being 1990 if she hasn't had the bushes re-done they will be flogged out with a fair bit of play.

Fix her up and hold on to it. That bus will treat you well for years yet.

Also, fuck yeah NZ. Ausfag here and saving shekels like mad to move to NZ with the wife. You cunts rock.

i'm about three oil changes worth of high-revving miles overdue for an oil change.

>Antenna is permanently erect, looks retarded
>Rust on rear fenders, small spot on roof rack
>put off a heater core flush til it was cold as dicks and my heater doesn't get my car warm til I'm already at work.
>small air leak beside wheel weight, driving with reduced PSI is fucking up my tread
>vibrations when in too low a gear, probably not good but wakes me up when I'm tired and driving like shit

Lol nothing. My car doesn't even have 1000 miles on it.

>only has 1 car


>96' 6.5 Suburban
nigger what are you doing?

When my 2005 Celica is idle the entire car vibrates very violently. It's bad enough that I can see my hood shaking. I'm pretty sure something is wrong with my timing belt. That or something has gone terribly wrong.

>94 5.7 suburban
>ac died again, but it has lifetime life and labor warranty so no biggie
>front shocks make creaking/crunching noise sometimes, need to replace
>fixed door hinges but now the doors rattle against the latch when going over bumps
>need to fix part of headliner

253,000 and one owner, been bretty reliable

if its on the back windshield too its probably your transmission

>owns a fleet of broken shit

>doesn't own a new car and a cheap beater

>both rear winter tires are from 2005 and cracked to hell
>nicked the sidewall on my summer tire and its so deep the ply is showing
>front rotors are warped to hell and I get terrible vibrations even slowing down from 50 km/h
>various scratches and paint transfers from the previous owner
>intermittent noise and its not the injectors
might be the alternator going, using a redneck stethoscope it seems to growl more as its loaded

now I'm just hunting for a decent used winter tire from the shop's tire compound but so far no luck

You live in norgay and have a suburban? Pics?

This happened back in March

Finally getting it fixed this December

The CEL on my car has been on for over a year. It shakes violently when stopped and the AC is on. Sometimes it dies when you turn full lock while reversing.

The rear passenger side strut (I'm assuming its that) is fucked and makes a loud rattle while driving, loud enough that I need to turn my radio full volume to hear anything

I got the car for free about a year ago, and I'll be replacing it as soon as I find something that fits my needs.

Having the time of my life, obviously. Why?

Yes. Maybe.

I basically live in perpetual darkness this time a year because lolnorth, but I'll see if I can't take a couple after work.

First project fag here, have posted this in another thread

Just about finished stripping all the torn parts off my miata and i've used a heavy duty lanolin based lubricant and wd-40 for over half the bolts. Should i be coating the new parts with some specialized product as i put it back together?
Everything from the rear crossmember to the brake pads are to be replaced

>pic related, lanolin lube

Well, there's probably some rust prevention you can do. That's about all I can come up with.

You'd be surprised how many people drive old, large american SUVs, especially Suburbans and Tahoes

Our tenant drives a damend 7.3 Powestroke Ford Excursion

These cars were almsot always registered as "light trucks" when they were new, making them a lot cheaper to buy and own due to different tax levels. Since then they have been re-registered as standard passenger cars as it gets free to do so after a certain number of years. You also have to redo some suspension stuff to lower the maximum allowed payload to 3500kg or lower.

When you've done this you can register it as a normal car that anyone can drive with a standard car license

My tachometer. But it's a Renault, so it's probably gonna break down six months later, true to the clichés.

I might actually be over reacting but is it actuatlly alright to just slap everything back together with wd? Should i even be using lube cus i'm absolutely scared if i fuck the torque specs parts would snap once i hit a pot hole

New rules came in 2016. Light trucks can be re-registered to passenger cars as long as the weight of the car + driver is below 3500kg, or thereabouts. Only have to pay a 500kr fee.

This really made the price shoot up on all american SUVs and pickups, but I can't claim I've seen a lot more of them around lately.

You don't have to use lube, and probably shouldn't. If you're afraid something's gonna snap, just be extra careful with the torque.
I also highly doubt anything's gonna snap if you barely overtighten stuff. Should be good.
I've been tightening stuff by hand and "feel" because I don't give a shit, but stuff has been working swell so far.

>window wiper broken, ordered new motor
My rear wiper is struggling hard. Do I need a new motor or you think its easy fix?

I'm not really too good with pixies and the devices they power. But yeah, you might need a new one. I know the front one on 96-99 chevy c/k may be fixed sometimes, but you should probably try to google it.

I broke my ground post on my starter solenoid yesterday. Can I ground the wire at the battery or on the fender instead?

I thought that was a ford explorer for a second

Yes, but make sure the spot you choose is bare, rust free metal. Bolt it down tight and put dialectical grease over the area. If you're worried about finding a good ground, get a little pencil tester or multimeter to poke around the engine bay with

It's an 88 f250, so the solenoid is beside the battery. Can I ground it to the ground terminal on the battery?

at first I wanted to ask you how can your car fly

>97 6.5 Burb
>Plan to make into camper
>No vaccum, turbo no spool
>No pass side wiper

Pic of burb?

Also, have you had your PMD fail yet? If not prepare for maximum REEEEEEEEEE

My head has spat out two manifold bolts.
I should probably put some back in.

My passenger side wiper was actually picked off a few months ago since the linkage thingy was broken. This is almost spooky.

Gonna take pics after work, gimme a few hours.

Previous owner was smart enough to buy a new PMD with heatsink from ssdiesel supply, and placed it somewhere cool. Haven't had a failure yet, but was planning on ordering one for backup.

You've at least considered doing it, which gotta count for something.

Things get spookier...
>Previous owner installed SSD kit

Where's yours mounted? The PO on mine mounted it on top of the intake. Worse spot IMO for heat soak. I dirched the kit because it was too big. Relocated it to the passenger compartment and plopped a 80mm case fan on top to aid heat dissipation. Worst it got was kind of warmish to the touch on a 38° day (no ac in truck also)

Engine bay, drivers side. Right above the wheel arch where there's usually a washer fluid reservoir.
Doesn't really get too hot. I might just mount a computer fan on it. Got plenty of them laying around.

>rear driver strut is blown
>driver cv joint boot is torn
>transmission is leaking oil
>power steering pump is leaking
>radio doesnt work
>i have a electrical short somewhere
>keeps throwing a code for the EGRC solenoid that i have to replace
>exhaust was hanging off but i just replaced it and ran a straight pipe
>clock doesnt keep time while car is off
>cruise control doesnt work
>rear defrost doesnt work
Its a hoopty but for $1200 its not bad

Check to see if the engine mounts are in good condition/still tight.

Electrical boogaloos are the worst. At least the mechanical is somewhat easy.

Car body is ground, ground terminal on battery is ground. Both are the same, since both are connected.
Battery terminal will be pretty good as long as it's not far away.

Anti-seize on any bolts you think might seize due to weathering depending on where you live.