Best Oil Brand for High Performance?

You mean consumer-grade, off-the-shelf blends?

I don't think Mobil 1 has been THAT Mobil 1 for a few years.

Pennzoil Plat is bretty gud.

I've seen positive reviews of Amsoil

Same for Mobil1, but while they've been cashing on on the same recipe others have caught up and in some cases surpassed them.

Quaker is pretty meh, Castrol is if you want to be a snowflake...

Just stick to one of the first 3. They're like $22 at walmart for the 5 qt.

>They're like $22 at walmart for the 5 qt.
Where do you live where synthetic is $22 for 5 quarts? Closer to $40 in LA

Meijer in central Ohio normally has 5qt jugs for $25. I noticed today it's on sale for $22. Penz Platinum is $26 for 5 qts.

My sump uses 7qt, but I used Penz Platinum and change it every 8-10k miles or annually.

The bikes get Mobil-1 15/50.

$22 for Mobil-1 5/30, 5 quart jug.

Mfw it's only $100+ here in NZ per 5L.

>pennzoil is preddy gud
>Quaker state is meh

Top fucking kek, they're the exact same thing, shit tier oil from the Pennsylvania oil fields. They cut the garbage oil with too much paraffin wax, and that wax accumulates at the bottom of the oil pan

...

>2016
>still believing pennzoil/quaker state comes from pennsylvania
>still believing the boomer-era paraffin wax meme

i shouldn't expect better from tripfags

My 16 gti runs liquid moly and damn I can feel the different plus I have been told its one of the best to help prevent carbon deposits. Deffinitly wins gold in my book.

you can't feel shit, fuck you're dumb

I've used royal purple now for quite awhile and i like it. Though generally i recommend pennzoil platinum or valvoline full synthetic to my friends shitboxes

>responding to tripfags

Pennzoil cut their original synthetic with paraffin and they got flak for it in like... 08 or so.
This was around the time that Mobil reigned supreme.

If you were still in 2008, I'd meme about paraffin. But 8, going on 9 years later, PennzPlat is a better buy than Mobil done.

23.95 in KY for 5 qt, and also
>living in commiefornia

you can order 5qt on ebay or amazon for cheaper than that.

Different user but when I switched my car from previous owner's cheapo conventional oil to full synthetic 3 things happened.

At first, the car was super sluggish. This I remedied by doing a second oil change after about 500 miles (about 3 weeks later), and swapping out the filter at the same time. The old filter was absolutely disgusting, and the new looked like it was at least several months old.

I replaced the valve cover gasket right before doing the second change, and there was moderate amounts of engine sludge in little engine crevices like the cracked and unseated gasket ridges.

About two months after oil changing shenanigans, I decided to do spark plugs, and in the threading in two of them I could see black sludge from what I could only assume was relics from the car's conventional oil days. The previous owner could have also spilled oil on the top of the plugs and it trickled down, but it could be either way.

Regardless, conventional oil does indeed produce sludge, and different synthetics can help remove sludge.

>cont.

I wish I had more pics on here, but the sludge was so bad that I had freaking engine sludge sitting in the bottom of my intake manifold, for christs sakes.

But back to your original question, yes, synthetics can remove engine sludge, yes that will increase throttle response, and also (not anything noticeable, maybe

this oil (op pic) performed flawlessly in my 1uzfe vvti, remaining clear for thousands of miles even through extended togue torture. (pinning the throttle corner after corner)

>Regardless, conventional oil does indeed produce sludge, and different synthetics can help remove sludge.
Sludge is from oil change intervals, not the type of oil. Synthetic will sludge if you don't change the oil.

Conventional will remove sludge if you do frequent oil change gears and some argue that certain conventional oiils are better for sludge removal at shirt change intervals (500 - 1000) miles.

Castrol is the best desu

I do agree with you, to go into more detail:

Conventionals produce sludge faster, due to having lower change intervals. Any oil left too long will sludge. But (generally speaking), synthetics will have more detergents to clean your internals than conventionals.

LA here too. I just got 5 qts synthetic valvoline high mileage with stp(lel) oil filter at autozone for 24 bucks. Just ask if they have any oil deals
Also go to walmart, mobil 1 synthetic is always 22-25

What do you drive?

I use Mobil 1 ext. performance in my Fiesta. Aside from daily use, i sometimes do 100mph highway runs and some doriftu fantasies. I change about every 5-6000 to get the most out of it.

>Doesnt use PA crude
And even though Pennzoil and QS aee owned by the same parent company, Pennzoils additive package is slightly more robust than QS
>spend some time on BITOG like a proper Veeky Forumstist

Before a track day I put in a mix of 5 different types of oils. All different brands. Some conventional, some synthetic. All different viscousities. I'm not even joking. My car has seen 20+ hours of WOT to redline on tracks, I abuse it on the street, do donuts, and it's at 222k miles.

Oil is oil bro.

HAHAHAH
> Pennzoil
I work for Jiffylube and holy shit it is the lowest quality oil you can get its all recycled shit

>Dodge wants me to use mobil 1 5w-30
>mobil 1 5w-30 shortage in the world
>only mobil i find is -40 and rarely some 5w-30 "good emission" type that costs 2 times as much.

i'm spending 150$ for each mobil oil change. but most of the time i use shitty oil meant for VW

Do you even amazon m8

Tfw Mobil 1 synthetic at Walmart in south Florida is 16$ ( always on rollback no idea why) normally 20. Mother works at Walmart so I get a discount, 14$ masterace Mobil 1

How long do you guys think my OCI should be? I'm running Castrol Edge high mileage 10w40 with a Wix XP filter, and on my other car (10w30 though) I changed it after 4k miles since the oil was dirty, but the filter looked like it still had a lot of life left. Most filters look like shit after 4k miles. My owners manual says 3500 for severe driving (which it is), but I'm thinking since this filter is so good I could probably get away with changing the filter every two oil changes instead. I am definitely gonna send a sample of the oil to Blackstone at 3500 miles, but should I leave the oil in longer?

shipping costs are often more expensive than the oil itself but i see that they've added more listings so i better order some for next oil change

>jiffy lube employee
So no education

Motul

...

>tfw 8 quarts of the stuff every oil change
Good thing I know a guy that can get it at wholesale prices.

Also
motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3582/Its-All-About-the-Zinc--High-Stress-Wear-Resistance-with-Penrite-Oil.aspx

Decent oil for a 200k mile 4age? I like to rev high.

What car? Sounds like mine

...

Been using pennzoil platinum in my Subaru for a couple of years. Going to try pennzoil ultra next oci for the winter. See the effects on piston slap I get when cold.

absolute shitbox aw11. Good engine, bad body, bought it for peanuts.
>OW-16
wew, I have a feeling I'm going to burn through that real quick. Recommended is 0W-30 or 0W-20 with a good engine.

Ahh. Not the same car then but I too use about 9 quarts per change.

shit wrong reply my bad

first of all KYS, you're an asshat, also go butcher my language elsewhere, bean-boi racer.

>Which is the absolute best brand oil? Highest quality for racing and abuse

>I want to be sure before I make the switch to full synthetic.

>want to be sure before I make the switch to full synthetic.

>before I make the switch to full synthetic.

>make the switch to full synthetic.

>make

are you fucking retarded? have you been abusing your car while running regular oil?

>be castrol dealer
>yfw it only costs me $40
laughing all the way to the bank lmao

I meant "it" to be castrol edge, which is mobil 1 equivalent
>inb4 >>equivalent

W204 with M272

>be dealeship fag
>yfw full synthetic oem oil is 7$ a quart
>synthetic blend is free
laughing all the way to the bank lmao

nice dude. the place I work for is pretty small, so my boss doesn't let us get freebies.

the cunt.

A guy at O'Reilly auto parts told me if I go synthetic I should stick with the same brand. So far I've used three different oils and topped up once with a different brand conventional oil. Car still runs just as good as when I got it if not better since they sucked at oil changes.

Redline extra zddp

no actually. Just bought it a week ago.

castrol

torco in US and motul in europe

torcousa.com/products-auto-pro.html

>Where do you live where synthetic is $22 for 5 quarts?

At walmart retail stores, the 5 quart jugs are the cheapest way to get synthetic oil. For the past year, the major synthetic brands have been $23 to $26 per 5 quart jug at my local walmart retail stores here in Seattle Washington state USA. The walmart house brand is SuperTech which has full synthetic oil at $17.97 for the 5 quart jug. For cleaning sludge, Pennzoil Platinum ULTRA has the most detergent.

The walmart oil/tire/battery service centers sell a full synthetic oil/filter change for $49.99 which includes your choice of mobil1, valvoline, castrol, or pennzoil platinum.

Quaker State and Jiffy Lube are owned by the same company. That's why JiffyLube uses only QS oils.

>shipping costs are often more expensive than the oil itself

No shipping charges if you do it the right way.

If you order from WALMART.COM, you can select the option to ship it to your local walmart retail store for zero shipping charge. Just show up at the store to pick up your ordered items.

oil is fucking oil

just use whatever shit. most of you aren't going to drive your engines to the ground before selling them anyways.

>oil is fucking oil
Ahh, no? Not all food oils are the same. Not all automotive oils are the same.

Pennzoil's regular full synthetic is the platinum. But the ULTRA was their limited quantity release which has more detergents and buffer. The BEST price is the 5 quart jug at walmart.com and the shipping cost is FREE if you have it sent to your local walmart retail store. Then you go to their pickup counter.

One online oil forum (URL listed in a past Veeky Forums thread to the specific article) had posts (with pictures) showing how pennzoil platinum ULTRA cleaned the inside of his engine. For example, the inside wall of the valve cover had that dark glaze coating. But time lapse photos across the months showed the dark glaze was cleaned off. People remarked seeing was believing.

There are 2 types of synthetic oils. One is type 3 that is refined out of existing oils. The type 4 oils are 100% all new created by molecular synthesis which is pennzoil platinum. As with top tier gasoline, the pennzoil platinum oils seem to have more detergent than the competitors. Is that good to have more detergent? Since the total oil package is 100%, if a greater percentage is detergent, that means less of that oil package is the base stock oil.

Anyways, walmart.com has the best price by far for pennzoil platinum ultra jugs. They do run out of stock at times since platinum ultra seems to be a sort of limited edition oil product.

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/14985876/#q14985876

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15515997/castrol-vs-mobil-vs-quaker-state#p15562761

540Rat's Oil Database (tested at 230 degrees fahrenheit):
540ratblog.wordpress.com/

That's some pretty good marketing.

Thank you.

What matters is that info is not only useful, but is accessible. There's too many strange people out there that actually don't want others to know or learn anything. I guess they are bitter or jealous, so they want people to be ignorant and make poor decisions.

Those toxic people often discourage the posting of useful info. When I come across those people in real life (and recognize them for who they are), I avoid them as much as possible. They are poison.

dad has used amsoil in his 0-600000 mile prius.

you just go BTFO by this guy

amazon.com/gp/product/B005H2SHS8/

Type 4 is PAO only, like Mobil 1. Type 5 is other synthetics like esters found in Redline.

Pennzoil Platinum Ultra 5W20 5-quarts.
walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-Ultra-Platinum-Full-Synthetic-5W20-SN-Motor-Oil-5-Qts/36030480
$38.90 USD makes me feel sort of ripped off since I am spoiled by all the super deals at $25 for the regular synthetic oils.

Unfortunately, ultra 5-quart jugs aren't on sale at $25 like all the other regular synthetic oils. But at least you can have it shipped to your local walmart retail store for free. Just go to the store and you don't have to pay any shipping charges.

Walmart.com regularly goes out of stock on 5 quart jugs and then gets restocked on the ULTRA about a month or two later. So you have to click on the "Notify Me When Back In Stock" button on that page. When it gets back in stock, buy it up and send it to your local walmart retail store. That's how I do it.

i know when they come back into stock and how much they were and where and what penzoil ultra was sold.

former walmart tire lube tech here.
when shit was slow i used to stock oil on the shelf.

Okay everyone, I know I'm retarded, but I need some help. I have an oil change in about 1000 miles. I have a 99 Crv shitbox with about 170k on the clock. Would there be any benefit to going with high mileage full synthetic over the semi-synthetic that is currently in it?

benefits?
probably not.
you are more prone to leaks and oil burn off with synthetic on that b20 engine thats inside that crv.

stick with semi synthetic high mileage and pair it with a high mileage oil filter. you will be pleased.

Are there any benefits to running high mileage on my 1998 Civic EX with 172k miles that's going through a quart every 1000-1500 miles?

Bone stock but I rev it out. Last oil change I used Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30

*High Mileage Oil. I'd be using Castrol Edge High Mileage 5w30.

Thanks for a straight answer. Last few times I asked I just got shit from different people.

Also a because I'm dumb question, but why is full synthetic more prone to leaking and being burnt?

it cleans too well, means the soot buildup in the oil that would seal the rings to the bore isnt there, its why older diesels often dont like new oils and you have to go TO FUCKING TRACTOR PLACES THAT ARE MILES OUT OF TOWN JUST TO GET FUCKING OIL, FUCK

the cursed D series oil burning problem i know it well.
high mileage oil usually has better detergents and "time released additives" to help prolong oil life. id be using that in your car.

also you used the wrong oil weight. its 5w30 not 0w30

basically whatsaid.

Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic shit.

That's a run-on sentence you walnut

Use any oil that is full synthetic, avoid Pennzoil

My owners manual for my old carburettor engine calles for TOTAL oil, specifically 15w50 or 15w40.
Since 15w50 is mentioned first I'm assuming it's better suited for my engine, but Its hard to come upon and I could only find pic related.

Do I go for this or some good quality 15w40?

Castrol

I just read that synthetic isn't all that good for engines that where designed with mineral oil in mind.
Still I'm perplexed what oil and brand I should go for

>I just read that synthetic isn't all that good for engines that where designed with mineral oil in mind

Since you just read it, where is that source? I want to read it too. If it's a journal, I should be able to access it through a journal database at my university library.

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15406966/looks-like-oil-change-companies-sell

What does this even mean? They'll leak if you use synthetic?

Is this Harley Davidson?

>Best Oil Brand for High Performance?

That means you're going to get a full synthetic oil. Not a conventional dinosaur mineral oil. And not a blend between conventional and synthetic.

The problem is that you said HIGH PERFORMANCE which means Racing and not regular passenger car usage. SO that means you'll be using one of the oils created for racing purposes. Some of those high performance brands are listed at

>My owners manual for my old carburettor engine calles for TOTAL oil, specifically 15w50 or 15w40

The first number only relates to the cold temperature. It should be safe to move down to 10W because the 40 viscosity is the operating temperature viscosity. Having a 15 at cold temperatures means that oil is really thick when cold, so that vehicle must be for use at warm climates.

Valvoline VR-1 has some of the best mechanical lubricants. It doesn't have many detergents, so it gets dirty and needs to be changed every 3k miles. Best used in cars with no catalytic converters and mechanical flat tappet cam

Synthetic is garbage. Good old dinosaur juice is the best.

Really wish it wasn't only made in 50 weight. I cant be running that with peace of mind. 40 weight already makes my lifters tick somewhat and 30 weight is perfect for my application.

Fucking this. You forgot Motul and Redline

You dont need shit short if basic autostore synthetic oil then. Pick oil weight based on your local temperature year round. Stick to Pennzoil Plat or Mobil1.

What matters more is proper oil weight choice.

>Which is the absolute best brand oil? Highest quality for racing and abuse, that is.
>Not actual racing, but hauling ass and drifting backroads for upwards of an hour at a time.

The answers (and needs) for racing oil and non-racing oil are quite different.

I too work for Jiffy Lube and can say you're a moron. That shit ain't recycled, unlike Valvoline. Pennz Platinum and Mobil are the shit. Look at the benchmarks, unless you're like a typical Jiffy employee and is far too uneducated to read.

>It doesn't have many detergents
Some of the racing oils have almost no detergent or TBN. It's because the oil is expected to be replaced after each race. That's why users that think racing oil is the ultimate highest performance oil for their passenger car can go wrong. A passenger vehicle has different expected needs and different expected maintenance schedules and lacks that continual peak load which racing forces upon the oil.