2000 Honda Accord V6 Starts then stalls?

Hey Veeky Forums i need some help finding the problem to my car not starting every now and then. If i drive around for like 20 minutes then stop go in store and come back the car wont start unless i give it some gas or wait like 20 minutes. Is it bad to give it gas to keep it running?youtube.com/watch?v=zYi4V-PdGKA youtube.com/watch?v=HqBJiHC-Ae8

main fuel pump relay under the dash maybe? shit failed twice on my 94 accord, same symptoms except giving it gas wouldn't help in my case. cheap and easy to replace.

sounds like the idle air control as well, it stalls out if it's stuck

timing belt slipped

Of course. Then it slips back and runs normally. Fucking Chinese parts.

>Comparing a 94 to a 00 Accord

honda reuses a shit ton of parts retard
just unplug the relay for a few seconds next time it happens and see if you don't have to wait for it to start. no harm in trying.

clean your fucking throttle body

Had a similar issue on my 99 v6 accord, but not so much that it wouldn't start it just had issues starting again after being stopped for awhile, it took forever to crank over.

Part of it is a heatsoak issue related to the fuel vaporizing in the fuel rails and the engine is unable to start on the vapors or some shit (this is why giving it gas might be helping you), some claimed the only solution was a PCM module that fixed it from a newer accord, but I never did this.

My DRL relay went bad, and my alarm kept randomly going off in the cold so I resoldered all the relays under the dash. Honda used shitty solder that cracks and breaks the connection, so I put fresh solder on all the relay's connection points. My alarm hasn't randomly went off, the car doesn't seem to have heatsoak issues in summer anymore, and my DRLs work.

Try replacing the "main relay", that one controls the fuel pump or some shit I remember, should be like $40 at autoparts place or you can just reflow the solder on the one you have

also buy a fucking $50 trans cooler and put in some fresh DW-1 while you're at it, the AT+V6 combo overheats and cooks the transmission fluid and the transmission eats itself. Mine died at about 100k miles, replacement has gone way further without any issues on fresh fluid and cooler.

That doesn't mean they're the same car you fucking dumbass. How about you fuck off this board and kill yourself because you obviously don't know shit about cars.

>HURR DURR unplug the relay for a few seconds next time

Oh yeah like that's going to fix the problem you fucking idiot.

I second idle air control valve

>tfw mom buys the wrong hot pockets

no one said its the same car, they still use a lot of the same parts though. unplugging it worked for my car until I replaced the relay.

google and this user will also tell you the relay failling is common on 6th gen accords

Not related to your problem, but I also just bought a 6th gen V6 accord and a third of the interior lights seem(?) to be out.

I'm just wondering, is the D4 dash symbol, odometer, climate control screen and auto shifter supposed to light up at night? Because if they do they aren't.

probably just burned out bulbs.

check fuses

plug a scan gauge in the car and try to pull codes
check crank angle sensor
cam angle sensor
clean that maf
check your IACV connection and make sure it works

clean that throttle body

You got vapor lock. Check your carb, son.

shieet iv got an 1999 accord 4 cyl and my car works perfectly fine execpt if im sitting in "park" and i rev the engine to like 3k then let go of the accelerator it will start idling really low.
If i do it a couple of times it will eventually stall

any ideas?

It's the engine coolant temp sensor. The computer thinks the engine it's colder than it is and runs to rich so it'll stall out when you try to start it unless you give it more air. Plug a OBDII scanner into it and look at the ECT reading. $5 says it'll be showing -30 or some shit.

idk dude but for my civic I have a wide generation of cars to choose from that have compatible parts.

Your comment is pretty stupid

vaccuum leak

I actually have the answer

Fuel pressure regulator. This has happened to my friend's Altezza and my brother's Chevy Astro van. It won't start until the ECU thinks the car is cold enough to stop routing fuel back to the tank.